Very slick and easy-to-understand video! Thank you. Here're my comments on 3 points: 1. In glacier travel, you should make sure the point of pull should be low, as opposed to your claim it would be OK. A convenient way is to use prusik connecting the main rope and the locking krab on to your belay loop (or a clove hitch may do as in the video). Tha reason is, otherwise (aka if the point of pull is high like direct pull from the chest coil), there is a more chance you would fall face-palm uncontrollably to the ground (glacier surface) when your mate suddenly falls into a crevasse. 2. Pete&Hill's textbook recommends to put a large HMS through your leg-loop and waist best *always* when (and only when) you put on a chest coil, which is what you did in your second demonstration but not in your first demonstration, where you put the krab on to the rope loop on your harness. I understand the reason is it helps to keep the chest coil snug and in place. 3. I think it is much better to keep your rucksack on while you are coiling your rope in your demonstrations! How many times have you (or we) set up the chest coil before putting on a rucksack and cursed it? I think it is the golden standard: "Rucksack first, chest coil second", just like "harness first, crampons second".
Masa Sakano thanks for the comment and that you enjoyed the vid. As you know there are many different ways of doing chest coils. People have their preferred methods for different situations. This video is my 2 preferred set ups for different situations which I change according to the terrain I’m on. To answer your comments if I may?.. 1. Your completely correct! Yes if your partner falls into a crevasse you can get pulled over top first, so being tied into the carabiner with a clove hitch is a great point and maybe I should have highlighted this a little more in the video! So thanks for pointing that out. However if you are the person falling into a crevasse, having your weight higher up can help flip you upright, especially if you fall in head first. It basically will act as a chest harness. If you don’t like this method then a clove hitch into the carabiner sorts that out straight away. Again thanks for pointing this out, I will endeavour to highlight this in a edit of this video; pointing out pros and cons of each technique. 2. Pete’s book is a incredible source for information!!! I would highly recommend anyone reading this to grab a copy! However not everything is in books and the methods shown here are super safe it’s just different to what’s in Pete’s book. Maybe try this one next time and see what you think? Be great to get you opinion on it?? 3. Again yes rucksack on before coils Completely agree and I hoped I had addressed this at the start of the video, however doing the demo with a rucksack on maybe would highlight this further! We are continually trying to improve our videos so thanks for your comments and thanks for liking our video.
Excellent demonstration and explanations. Thank you for posting this 👍.
Love the second method, will definitely be adopting that for uk scrambles
You must be the only guy on youtube that has the sense to put his hood up when doing this.
Liked the clove hitch to bring the 'tie off lower' - I did not know that - thanks
This is an excellent video thanks
Great video Stuart
Very slick and easy-to-understand video! Thank you.
Here're my comments on 3 points:
1. In glacier travel, you should make sure the point of pull should be low, as opposed to your claim it would be OK. A convenient way is to use prusik connecting the main rope and the locking krab on to your belay loop (or a clove hitch may do as in the video). Tha reason is, otherwise (aka if the point of pull is high like direct pull from the chest coil), there is a more chance you would fall face-palm uncontrollably to the ground (glacier surface) when your mate suddenly falls into a crevasse.
2. Pete&Hill's textbook recommends to put a large HMS through your leg-loop and waist best *always* when (and only when) you put on a chest coil, which is what you did in your second demonstration but not in your first demonstration, where you put the krab on to the rope loop on your harness. I understand the reason is it helps to keep the chest coil snug and in place.
3. I think it is much better to keep your rucksack on while you are coiling your rope in your demonstrations! How many times have you (or we) set up the chest coil before putting on a rucksack and cursed it? I think it is the golden standard: "Rucksack first, chest coil second", just like "harness first, crampons second".
Masa Sakano thanks for the comment and that you enjoyed the vid.
As you know there are many different ways of doing chest coils. People have their preferred methods for different situations. This video is my 2 preferred set ups for different situations which I change according to the terrain I’m on.
To answer your comments if I may?..
1. Your completely correct! Yes if your partner falls into a crevasse you can get pulled over top first, so being tied into the carabiner with a clove hitch is a great point and maybe I should have highlighted this a little more in the video! So thanks for pointing that out. However if you are the person falling into a crevasse, having your weight higher up can help flip you upright, especially if you fall in head first. It basically will act as a chest harness. If you don’t like this method then a clove hitch into the carabiner sorts that out straight away. Again thanks for pointing this out, I will endeavour to highlight this in a edit of this video; pointing out pros and cons of each technique.
2. Pete’s book is a incredible source for information!!! I would highly recommend anyone reading this to grab a copy! However not everything is in books and the methods shown here are super safe it’s just different to what’s in Pete’s book. Maybe try this one next time and see what you think? Be great to get you opinion on it??
3. Again yes rucksack on before coils
Completely agree and I hoped I had addressed this at the start of the video, however doing the demo with a rucksack on maybe would highlight this further!
We are continually trying to improve our videos so thanks for your comments and thanks for liking our video.
the higher point of attachment is preferred when you do classic glacier travel...similar to the recommended chest harness.
Great video Stuart. Subscribed.
great instruction, thank you.
love it mate
Brilliant
thank you
What's the stopper on the figure 8 for? is the figure 8 not safe?
head glasses
stopper knot is completely useless on a well dressed figure 8