E23 Pontiac Firebird brake booster & master cylinder install. project LeBronze almost done!
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2021
- 1968 Firebird Convertible restoration finished disc brake conversion and test drive. what a difference!!! project LeBronze is almost done here at VVG.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video. I'm currently shopping on summit for a complete drum to disk kit for my 69. I've never worked on brake conversions before. Very helpful , thanks
Thanks! Good luck on the swap
I found you from the Firebird Facebook group, Great video! The only omission I see was failing to mention that the 2 different hole positions on the pedal are for Power vs. non power. The upper hole gives you more leverage for non power and puts the master cyl. level. The second and lower hole almost lined up with the brake light switch is for less leverage on power setups and puts the booster and master at an angle.
You have answered the question why it mounts at an angle. I have never had someone tell me the why and it makes sense. Much appreciated thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone. This is one of the Goals with this channel. Spreed the knowledge I have and other viewers to build confidence in a person thinking about tackling projects like these. I did not have the CZcams resource 25 years ago and it’s a great way to spread the word. Your help is appreciated!
Love those smies!!!!! Rewatching at work cuz well cuz am slammed.. :)
Thanks buddy appreciate the support for the old VVG. Heck you might even learn something too
The slant on the master cylinder makes me wonder if the break pedal rod is on a slant into the booster
I have never figured out the why or been told why they change the angle of the master cylinder between power and non power assist. If somebody knows please tell me.
No the rod has to be fairly straight. The angle is created by the bracket mount on the back of the booster and lines the rod up straight to a lower hole in the brake pedal arm that is used on power brake cars because they need less mechanical advantage leverage then the non power setups. Manual brake Birds use the upper hole for more leverage and mount the master level to line up with that hole. If you look closely when he removes the brake pedal pin with the manual setup he removes it from the upper hole. Then when installing the power booster and connecting to the brake pedal he attaches to the lower hole because this is where it naturally lines up because of the angled mounting bracket on the power booster.
@@clintonlabato3168 yes, so is the booster bracket specific to body styles
@@michaelerickson1518 I'm pretty sure A body of that vintage is the same.
Nice job brother 👍
Thanks. Any luck on finding a 1968 bird yet?
@@VinylVillageGarage no brother not at all do you now anything of one
not yet I will keep you posted
If you showed it I missed it. But what about installing the other three nuts that mount the booster to the firewall studs?
That are all there and tight.
I just noticed 454 subscribers, is that a magic number?
It’s a little magic but 455 would be a lot cooler
Hey, I did the exact same thing you did but I'm still getting a soft pedal. A friend suggesting changing out the pushrod to a shorter or longer one, opposite of what ever is in there..
Many reasons for a soft pedal. First was it soft prior to the brake upgrade? Next how far does the pedal travel with engine not running?
I have a question about brake boosters on a 67 firebird you might be knowledgeable about. There are (4) boosters offered. One is 11" with single diaphragm, one is 11" with dual diaphragm, one is 9" with single and one is 9" with dual diaphragm. I find no differentiation or explanation for the differences. Our car has all drum power brakes and an 11" diaphragm booster ( not sure if single or dual diaphragm) our braking is extremely sensative. One toe braking. I need to somehow reduce the boost.
Here is what I know the larger diameter and dual diaphragm gives you the most power assist. To reduce the sensitivity a smaller and single diaphragm would be the way to go by that logic. But with that said the 1969 trans am had a special and specific power brake booster that had “less” power assist to reduce brake sensitivity while on the track at higher speeds. From what I recall it was still an 11” booster with different springs to get that effect. So what I am saying is your solution might be a replacement stock unit it might be the spring in your booster might be worn or damaged or go with a smaller unit might get the job done
No need to change the proportioning valve in the swap to disc?
On this car no the only change was the master cylinder to disc brake type, this car has the only needed valve on it already it’s the valve on the left side that I remounted. Now there was a chance on a 4 wheel drum car it did not have the hold off valve then it should be added. The early cars have this valve as a hold off for the front brakes and was same part number for drum and disc.
You can buy a modern combination valve and update the brakes if you wanted too of course. Check this link out for more info www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-proportioning-valve-bracket-set-1967-1969-33-185791-1.html
Thank you for the good info
Very welcome! Thanks for watching
Is there a possibility that the booster could interfere with the hood tach if you have one? I have one. :)
Never seen it or heard of it being and issue, for the best of my knowledge should not be a problem.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks again.
Hello sir I have a 76 .. how did you get your break booster off ? I am in the process of removing my entire fender at this point because I can’t get my wrenches in there
If you mean the 4 nuts for the brake booster to firewall it’s not easy. It’s the worst part of the project. 9/16 box end 1/4 turn at a time.
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you I guess I’m gonna continue with my removal of the fender .
I am sure with the fender out of the way it can be accomplished. The hood hinge is right in the way too. Good luck on your build 1976 bird is a nice ride too.
Project Lebronze! 🤣. Nice how much are you selling it for?
A lot…..JK not sure going to figure it out when we are done and see how much invested. my guess is $13-14k. or make us an offer 😁
After using both power disk brakes with the booster and non power disk brakes with no booster, what I want to know is 2 things, how the heck can you get RID of that useless booster to go manual non power disks, and is there a difference between a power disk booster master cylinder and non power disk brake master cylinder as all my cars have cams with long durations so they have next to NO VACUM, plus I flat out HATE THE LACK OF FEEL AT THE PEDLE OF POWER BRAKES Regardless! If you ever plan on really driving the hell out of your bird on as road course, ( as I do ) you understand power brakes are just a toy, and truth be told REEEEEEALLY suck as the vacuum can never recover quick enough when your on & off the brakes in a millisecond over & over in hot heavy traffic.
I have a coupe things to consider. first part is their a different master cyl between power and manual brakes? The answer is no from what I was told, this holds true to factory components the only difference is how it attaches to the brake pedal. The power booster it is tipped up at the front making you use the lower hole on the pedal thus giving you a lower mechanical advantage then the opposite holds true to the manual set up it uses the hole higher on the brake pedal more pedal travel but a higher mechanical advantage.
The only difference in master cylinders that I know of is with or without disc brakes.
Fun fact the 1969 Trans Am had its own power brake booster that was set up to reduce the amount of “power” it had it gave you a feel of a weaker power assist with the idea of reducing brake sensitivity during a higher speed racing.
Man, how did you get the bolts on the booster? I have a 67 camaro, and I can't get to them ratchet wrench is too big.
Not an easy task,
I have a stubby 9/16” box end wrench it’s about 3” long, to do most of the wrenching then tighten it up with the longer box end. It’s almost easier to take the hood off or get them done too