Hi Matt, Good video lots of info. Regards removal it can help if you ‘plan ahead’ and start the removal process the week beforehand if you can. This involves applying a freeing agent(WD40 etc) in copious amounts down into the injector seat area. Do this every day before you start the physical removal. This will help loosen up any hardened soot should you have a leaky injector seal etc and any grime that will make removal more difficult. The best ‘ally’ in the battle(it could be just that) is HEAT so before you actually start get the engine HOT and work on the engine during its cooling down period before it gets cold. Obviously certain caveats must be noted(hot engine parts can burn etc) but by taking care this is the best way. Once the brackets etc have been removed it is VERY IMPORTANT to clean as much debris from the injector opening as possible. This can be assisted by using WD40 again and some rags/probes/etc. Brake clean can be used but care must be taken and best used on a cold engine. If you have a compressor then use that air to blow out any debris. Eye protection MUST be worn when doing this. The injectors will be loosened if the engine is hot/warm and May come out quite easily but more than likely will need manipulated (you mates spanner’s ideal) but it must be remembered that the head is aluminium as are some of the components and will break if in appropriate force is used. Once an injector is removed the injector seat/hole should be cleaned and then covered/blocked using paper towels to prevent anything falling into the cylinders. Also it is important ensure that each copper sealing washer also comes out with each injector. This may be difficult to do but most are retained by the injector nozzle. The injectors can be replaced into any cylinder only the injector with the needle valve sensor requires to be replaced into cylinder No 5. On reassembly new injector seal must be fitted... hope these tips help anyone carrying out this procedure..
That is amazing, thank you so much for putting in the details where I missed out. Your absolutely right, plan ahead, pre lube pre heat, and a lot of caution, for your own safety and the engines. Safety is the most important thing especially for those that do this as a hobby as it’s not drilled in to you about PPE like it would be if you went to college. Eye protection should be worn for pretty much every job you do, on my apprenticeship I was wearing my welding mask and I still had debris ricochet into my eye. Working on vehicles can be very dangerous and precautions should always be made. Sorry ranting on but safety is important, again thank you for you in-depth comment really appreciated, and really helpful 🙏
A mechanic has told me a good tip for reassembly. Heat the copper sealing washers up with a blowtorch to soften and aneal them. Ensures perfect long last seal apparently. Brickwerks sell the washers.
Hi. What was your problem please that caused you to do this? I've got a strong smell of diesel from the exhaust and dont know where to start really. Can't see any leaks in the engine bay but the injector on the left has some crap around it. I think I'll check they are tight in the morning. Any thoughts on what else it could be? cheers for the vid.
I had a misfire so I started by swapping the injections then done a compression test, then rebuilt the engine. You can remove the injectors and have them cleaned, plenty of companies around that do that.
So Ive seen the AHY engine has slightly bigger injectors and has more HP, would it be possible to swap the tips of the ACV injectors for AHY injectors for more HP plus a tune on top of that?? Any ideas or maybe wrong info?
Hi Mate, got chance to buy a t5 lwb with 5.1 front, It’s got a p0305 code and cuts out under load after 10 minutes ish , but will sit on tickover all day long running fine… it’s got the 2.5 engine, would a bad injector cause it to cut out when driving 10 minutes and fine on tickover ? Was thinking either injector or lifter, but it’s ticking over fine tough
Hi, just been watching your vids for hints and tips. This is closed video which could help with my question. I’ve got some perished fuel return hoses, but it’s pretty damn skinny getting in there to take them off and change. Any advice on accessing these hoses to swap them out. Cheers.
@@TwiggsT4 thanks Matt. Yes it is. Sold a rib for a T4 2.5tdi 52 plate. Just getting to know my way around her. Thanks for getting back to me. Great posts on Here too. 👍🏼
Welcome to the T4 community 🙋♂️ The 2.5 is the better option 😉 solid engines when they’re maintained, first thing I would do is check timing belt and if in doubt replace it. I have a few videos on here of the work I’ve done, some of the first things I done I didn’t film because I didn’t start a channel straight away, and in the comments we have an awesome community with are very helpful. What’s your plan with your van?
@@TwiggsT4 first job on the list done, cambelt, injection belt water pump. Given her a service, changed filters etc and oils change, new glow plugs, cleaned up battery connections and noticed the leaking fuel hoses. She starts on the button and runs really well. Might have bagged a worldie with this one for her age. 🤞
@@TwiggsT4 thanks for replying brother, this is my first diesel and I’m also new to Germany. I will change the cabin filter today, but also would like to note that on start a bunch of white smoked comes out my exhaust and doesn’t go away until I start driving. :/
Check all your diesel connections on the diesel fuel filter. White smoke could just be moisture in the exhaust, it may be fuel pump timing which I wouldn’t worry about, that can be sorted out on the next cam belt and diesel pump belt service
Hi Matt, Good video lots of info. Regards removal it can help if you ‘plan ahead’ and start the removal process the week beforehand if you can. This involves applying a freeing agent(WD40 etc) in copious amounts down into the injector seat area. Do this every day before you start the physical removal. This will help loosen up any hardened soot should you have a leaky injector seal etc and any grime that will make removal more difficult. The best ‘ally’ in the battle(it could be just that) is HEAT so before you actually start get the engine HOT and work on the engine during its cooling down period before it gets cold. Obviously certain caveats must be noted(hot engine parts can burn etc) but by taking care this is the best way. Once the brackets etc have been removed it is VERY IMPORTANT to clean as much debris from the injector opening as possible. This can be assisted by using WD40 again and some rags/probes/etc. Brake clean can be used but care must be taken and best used on a cold engine. If you have a compressor then use that air to blow out any debris. Eye protection MUST be worn when doing this. The injectors will be loosened if the engine is hot/warm and May come out quite easily but more than likely will need manipulated (you mates spanner’s ideal) but it must be remembered that the head is aluminium as are some of the components and will break if in appropriate force is used. Once an injector is removed the injector seat/hole should be cleaned and then covered/blocked using paper towels to prevent anything falling into the cylinders. Also it is important ensure that each copper sealing washer also comes out with each injector. This may be difficult to do but most are retained by the injector nozzle. The injectors can be replaced into any cylinder only the injector with the needle valve sensor requires to be replaced into cylinder No 5. On reassembly new injector seal must be fitted... hope these tips help anyone carrying out this procedure..
That is amazing, thank you so much for putting in the details where I missed out. Your absolutely right, plan ahead, pre lube pre heat, and a lot of caution, for your own safety and the engines.
Safety is the most important thing especially for those that do this as a hobby as it’s not drilled in to you about PPE like it would be if you went to college. Eye protection should be worn for pretty much every job you do, on my apprenticeship I was wearing my welding mask and I still had debris ricochet into my eye. Working on vehicles can be very dangerous and precautions should always be made.
Sorry ranting on but safety is important, again thank you for you in-depth comment really appreciated, and really helpful 🙏
A mechanic has told me a good tip for reassembly. Heat the copper sealing washers up with a blowtorch to soften and aneal them. Ensures perfect long last seal apparently. Brickwerks sell the washers.
Hi from belgium thx for the video realy nice, i welding me a tool to get the injectors more easy out i need 10sek per injector 😋
Mine where a bitch to get out ended up lose the bolt then run the engine until it popped out. Love your videos have a nice day 🙂
Same happened to my mates van, his glow plug snapped off, but it never popped out, still there now 😂
Very helpful! thanks for sharing 👍
Hello a great job perfect video 👍👍👍from Germany 🇩🇪 👋👋👋Kai
Thank you 🤙🤙🤙
Handy tutorial! Great !
torque for the nuts is 25 NM :)
Good video!
Thank you
Hi, great info ,but need more volume please, not having a go ,I do like your content ,cheers (no I'm not deaf) lol
Appreciate your feedback, the sound isn’t great and I will improve that for future content. Thanks Ben 🤙
Naughty
Hi. What was your problem please that caused you to do this? I've got a strong smell of diesel from the exhaust and dont know where to start really. Can't see any leaks in the engine bay but the injector on the left has some crap around it. I think I'll check they are tight in the morning. Any thoughts on what else it could be? cheers for the vid.
I had a misfire so I started by swapping the injections then done a compression test, then rebuilt the engine. You can remove the injectors and have them cleaned, plenty of companies around that do that.
OK thanks. Might be the first step then I guess.
So Ive seen the AHY engine has slightly bigger injectors and has more HP, would it be possible to swap the tips of the ACV injectors for AHY injectors for more HP plus a tune on top of that?? Any ideas or maybe wrong info?
Great video thankyou. If you'd have used a slide hammer, what part of the injector would it fix to?
I guess you’d want to screw it on to where the fuel pipe screws into the injector
Correct!!
Hi Mate, got chance to buy a t5 lwb with 5.1 front, It’s got a p0305 code and cuts out under load after 10 minutes ish , but will sit on tickover all day long running fine… it’s got the 2.5 engine, would a bad injector cause it to cut out when driving 10 minutes and fine on tickover ? Was thinking either injector or lifter, but it’s ticking over fine tough
How long did it take you to do this?
Probably about 3hours, if I wasn’t filming and just cracked on with the job could of done it a lot quicker
Did it run much better since changing the injectors
It turned out the issue was broken piston rings in cylinder 2, injectors made no difference
Hi... Can u send me a picture with the back pump conection pipes please?
Is 3 up then clockwise 1 then 2 down then 4 and 5?
Thank you!
Hi, just been watching your vids for hints and tips. This is closed video which could help with my question. I’ve got some perished fuel return hoses, but it’s pretty damn skinny getting in there to take them off and change. Any advice on accessing these hoses to swap them out. Cheers.
Hi, if you have a short nose t4 you can put your radiator into service position which should give you a bit more room. Hope this helps, thanks Matt
@@TwiggsT4 thanks Matt. Yes it is. Sold a rib for a T4 2.5tdi 52 plate. Just getting to know my way around her. Thanks for getting back to me. Great posts on Here too. 👍🏼
Welcome to the T4 community 🙋♂️
The 2.5 is the better option 😉 solid engines when they’re maintained, first thing I would do is check timing belt and if in doubt replace it.
I have a few videos on here of the work I’ve done, some of the first things I done I didn’t film because I didn’t start a channel straight away, and in the comments we have an awesome community with are very helpful.
What’s your plan with your van?
@@TwiggsT4 first job on the list done, cambelt, injection belt water pump. Given her a service, changed filters etc and oils change, new glow plugs, cleaned up battery connections and noticed the leaking fuel hoses. She starts on the button and runs really well. Might have bagged a worldie with this one for her age. 🤞
Fair play mate, you’re flying through things 👍 all the glow plugs came out okay then? Sometimes they can snap
hi you didnt show how to put them back in
has one with the wire on got to be on in number 5 or does it matter
Depends on your injector pipes and injectors, with mine on the ACV with bosch injectors it goes on 5 if it’s not then it’ll go in 4
How did it run after the new injectors ?
It’s still running rough. Got a guy coming to check if it’s the diesel injection pump or if the timing slipped 🤷♂️
Could this be the reason my cab smells like diesel fuel?
Possibly, when did you last change your cabin filter?
@@TwiggsT4 thanks for replying brother, this is my first diesel and I’m also new to Germany. I will change the cabin filter today, but also would like to note that on start a bunch of white smoked comes out my exhaust and doesn’t go away until I start driving. :/
Check all your diesel connections on the diesel fuel filter. White smoke could just be moisture in the exhaust, it may be fuel pump timing which I wouldn’t worry about, that can be sorted out on the next cam belt and diesel pump belt service
Why do you have weird things on the back of your van nauty nauty
Stock tune?
No its had a remap, eventually bigger injectors and then remapped again