Dan, you have a great video here..... I have a 1999 Ford Ranger... and my shifter has been sloppy for awhile; years!. My shifter tube was not broken, but figured after 24 years, if all of the stress, I figured I'd get new parts. The bracket @6:22, I discovered on mine, the bolt sheared right off the other week. I was like how the hell do I get to that!?!? I had no idea it was relatively easy. There was a little stub piece I could unscrew, but it didn't matter since I had new parts. I did end up going to Ford and getting new Star screws. 4 for $15.00 😞 I ended up getting new Tube and Plunger assemblies, and bushings, as shown in the video, starting @5:57 mark. NOT from the Ford Dealership, but OEM Ford parts online. I used white silicone grease to lube up the assembly. And "blue" threadlock to keep things together. Boy, my truck shifts so smoothly..... never in all of the years, do I recall it being that smooth and tight.
As a mechanic I recommend to fully lubricate the inner shaft with a heavy grease, insert the tube. Lubricate the tube (with grease also) where the bushings are with the clamps. You will feel a "tighter" and smoother operation when shifting.
Just did a Steering column repair because of a sloppy gear selector. Over time the metal end of the gear selector will wear away the aluminum gully on the shifter tube. The new damper is a thick rubber, not the metal they used to use. You need to grease the plunger, spring and the lever that goes towards the back. When you drop the entire column by removing the 4 nuts, what can you use to rest it on so that it doesn't pull any wires or harnesses out of place. I removed the 2 front nuts and backed out the back two until the last thread. It's not impossible but some guys leave out the shortcuts on these videos. Splain me some details about the column drop. Thanks PJ
My repair went pretty much as explained in the video. Thanks so much for the very helpful instructions. Here are a few key points that really made a difference: 1. Disconnect the link to the transmission cable before lowering the column (easy to pop off) 2. Mark the footprint of the rear pair of column bolts to aid in re-alignment when re-assembled 3. Don’t bother removing the upper column cover until after lowering the column and be sure to re-install before re-mounting the column. That saved a lot of fussing with this plastic cover. 4. Disconnect the indicator cable early and perhaps dismount it from the column it to avoid damage when the column is lowered. Mine only had one screw and the cable was short enough to become tight before the steering wheel rested on the seat. 5. Dismounting the solenoid bracket to enable removing the tube with shifter bracket attached was a big winner 6. If the width of your hand across the knuckles when pressed against a surface, like a karate punch, is more than 3.5” you might be better off removing the entire column instead of just lowering it. Or, find an assistant with smaller hands. 7. Shift Tube Part Number: 1F1Z7212AA and Shift Tube Bushing: F3TZ7L278A fit my 1992 Aerostar
Was having the same issue that started mild and got progressively worse over a few years (breaking point was when it would intermittently start because it couldn't tell if it was fully in neutral), but luckily my shifter tube wasn't broken - just had loose bolts holding it to the bracket - tightened those up and replaced the plastic bushings on the tube and it goes fully into park again! thanks for your video!
FYI it is much easier in this type of case where you have to replace the whole shift tube or the bushing to leave the dash components in place and just remove the 4 13mm bolts for the whole steering column mount. Once these are removed and the column is free you can drop it down far enough to reach all of the mounting bolts for the entire shift tube, (torx 30) it also make reassembly very quick and easy.
There is a small button under the ignition switch. Put the key in, turn the switch to the on position (not start), push the small button under the switch and the whole ignition switch comes out.
My husband's 2006 Ford F150 will not go into reverse. I drove this morning and did a lot of back up. He said the was stuck in the curb and he gave it some gas, it came off the curb but made a clicking noise. This is an emergency please help.
My explorer had a moderate problem in that it wouldn't go easily into reverse or park. Shop said I needed a new transmission, but I could fenagle it into reverse if I was lucky so I said nope it's not a transmission problem. Took apart my steering column expecting to have a loose or broken shift cable ($50 repair), but this video confirmed to me all that was missing was a bolt to pin the shift tube to the cable. Shop said I needed a $1200 repair, when all I need is a 20c bolt. Thanks for making this video you saved me thousands!
I have a 2003 Ford F-150 and I didn’t have to remove the dash. Great video! It was throughly explained and good with visuals. Literally just fixed mine and it went well. Thank you!!
Absolutely Awesome Vid. Just had to replace this exact item on my dad's 2000 F250 Super Duty. I completed the entire job with the help of your Video. Thanks Amigo. Very Helpful.
Mine broke Sunday in exactly the same place. Thanks to your video I was back in business Tuesday morning. Thanks from a Grandma in Iowa. Love these DIY videos.
Moved my truck during lunch at work, and it wouldn't go into park. A minute of trying things later and a small bit of metal fell to the floor then I couldn't leave Drive. Thought I broke the cable. Limped it home, disconnected the cable on both ends and it was functioning fine. Transmission shaft lever was working fine. Looked up under the dash, yup the column was broke. Thank you.
Amazingly helpful video. Glad I read through the comments so I didn't have to remove the dash. Replaced the tube and bushing for under $50 with OEM genuine Ford parts. I was able to reuse the inner rod. '99 F-350 XL very happy to be up and running again. The A1 Auto video is also very helpful.
Nice video, thanks. You don't have to take off the upper gauge cluster though. Doesn't really help any and the older ones have a tendency to crack pretty easily, during removal.
Thank you for the instruction video. I really like how you edit. ie.. just press the linkage back on (cut video, cuss, swear at it, bandage bloody knuckles) and there you are all fixed, just so easy. Now get me a bottle of Jack to calm my nerves and kill the pain in my hands, and reflect on possibly pay someone to do a half ass job on your truck repairs in the future. Semper Fi
Didn't have this issue, but was troubleshooting another that required me to take apart the column. Thanks for the instructions, especially getting it back together. It was a PITA squeezing the side next to the ignition but got it back on snug.
I followed all these directions and this worked perfectly. I would like to add 2 possibilities you may want to check: #1 FIRST check your transmission range sensor (by your transmission, under the truck and is also called a "neutral safety switch"). This was the chain reaction problem that led to me having to replace this shifter column " twice ". This led to requiring extreme force to shift, therefore causing the column shifter to break, then causing the next problem: #2 The Shift cable housing broke from forcing the shifter and bent the shift cable at a 45° angle, leading me to have to replace it also. So...if your range sensor is seized, replace it first, then replace your cable if it appears bent, THEN this column shifter. Remember...the column shifter IS cheap metal...and there has to be a reason it broke in the first place. If you check these 2 items first and they are functioning properly, then it's just wear and tear of a cheap part. Otherwise, you get to learn how to do this in your sleep! 🤣
On my 2002 F-150 Supercrew,I never had this issue but at one time I noticed that the shifter was not smooth and required some strength to put it into any gear on the transmission,it made a weird thud or shift every time I did,and some times when I would put the shifter back into neutral or park,it would sound like a crack.This happened very soon right before I ended up selling the truck,I never addressed or looked in to it,but I did mention it in detail to the person who was buying it.
Ur supposed to use a new pin. the manuals says so anyway. I just did the bushings on my 98 grand marquis. Then the shifter cable rotted at the trans. Now I need an MLPS because I have to wiggle sometimes in P to start it :lol:. I thought the bushings would fix that.
Thanks for the vid. Just did mine on a 04 250 6.0 went smooth. Also this is a very common issue with these vehicles. Typically see them break like.the one you have shown. Or the black plastic bushings completely deteriorate. Thanks again was very helpful!
Thankyou. The best explanation video I have ever followed. I am not a mechanic and was easlily able complete the repair following you excellent instruction.
Man I wish I saw the first two minutes and 22 seconds of this video yesterday I was stranded and I thought that they would be away to do what you said but all of my efforts were in vain thanks for your video
excellent video. thanks for this. why dont the mfg make cars that can be repaired anymore? this model year is so easy to repair/fix compared to the new models.
Great video, lots of details and hints, love it! Question, the screws holding the underside cover, are they Philips? I saw you had a yellow handled driver and what size, #2? Mine just broke and I'm trying to evaluate the damage.
Great video! I have a 92 f250 everything went so smooth, I was even able to fix my broken shifter-directional cable bracket with everything dismantled. Love CZcams
followed video to the letter everything works fine now, Only I added something, I put a small dab of silicone to outside of bushings and some never seize to inside of bushing before clamping down,
I think my ford F-350 has a faulty automatic shift it's drives but I had to put it down to the one and pull it hard. Maybe this issue could be the same issue on my truck
O.K..... I am going to fix my 97 Ranger, I hope.... (pick up the plunger monday, since I had to order it from another distributor -the original was broken in half in shipping - also, Chinese aluminum is of poor quality!! my question is, " Why did you not grease the plunger, clean the spring and grease, and under the new bushings, etc. I ask this because all other YOU TUBE videos i have watched apply ample grease to these areas? thanks, john in co.
Well, giess i know what im doing for the new year. F250, 2004. It has no amenities. Hand crank windows, hand slide seat. No working A/C. A junker i was about to put up for sale. Then this happened. As a 71 year old woman who did go to vo tec in NH in 1978/80, i can do repairs. But remembering where fussy parts and bolts go back together seems to be a problem. I was always goid at taking stuff apart, not so good reassembling it. Although i did manage to rebuikd from scratch my 1966 Chevy Nova back then. Well wish me luck.
Poor design? You are too kind! :0) It's a pile of crap! I've had nothing but problems with this shifter since I bought my 2002 F-150. It just snapped today and is flopping in the breeze! Love the truck, but the shifter is crap. Thanks for doing this video!
I have a 1997 ford f150. At 10:28 in the video you mention connecting the gear shift indicator cable. What is the white part called that holds that cable in place? Mine is broken and I am looking for the part. thanks for any help.
awesome video man! my 07 F150 XL (column shifter) is extremely lose and I cannot shift the transmission (I can crawl under and change it from there fine and I drove +150 miles like it since I was on a trip), the truck is currently in the dealership so I'm hoping it's a simple fix as like that, however, yesterday morning when I started the truck and tried shifting, it actually shifted fine! which leaves me wondering! anyway, thanks man for the great video!
I am actually stuck trying to remove the bottom panel from my Ford F150. I can not remove the parking brake nor the hood release from the panel, in order to remove the panel.. Can yuu show a vedeo to show how to remove the parking brake & hood release from the bottom panel.
Great video thanks!!!does this apply for Ford expedition and my light don't turn on .can I bypass that and figure out the difference what gear it's on if no light in the power led ?thanks.
10:12.....if you look through the front you can see the shifter cable and the knob if you grab channel locks you can reach up under and look through and clamp it on very easy ....I put all my stuff back together and it’s really tight won’t even shift proper 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Update: all good.. if you don’t buy an OEM (which I didn’t because I wanted to fix it asap) you’ll have to drill out the holes yourself to fit the pins. Other than that no issues. Thought I’d share my experience.
Yeah my shifter just collapsed wow u made it look so easy ...but I dont know if I am gonna be that lucky but we will see thank you very much... freaking weird things breakdown on these fords motor tranny bulletproof 201k strong..but thanks again .
One of the torx bolts that holds on the metal plate at the end of the rod sheared off on my 94 F-150. I've been trying to use an easy out and it's been a bitch. The broken off bolt will not out. I'm probably going to have to take the whole damn thing apart :( I've been looking for a video to figure it how to do it so thanks.
Daniel, I'm hoping you can help me. My issue is the metal bracket that bolts onto the linkage with two bolts has broken. I don't know how to find the right part other than going to a junkyard and taking one from a truck. Any suggestions?
I got a 95 4x4 7.3 similar problem. I bought as is changed all this already new cable ect. Tried to shift trans by hand from underneath same story. Any other idea? Double checked everything to make sure on connections.
Hey Daniel I had recently replaced my shifter column in my 2001 f 250 super duty but now the horn, dome light, wipers, and power windows do not work along with a bad shifter solenoid....if you could get back to me with any advice please do
What is the thread pitch for the torx bolts that hold the cable arm on if you happen to know? One of mine snapped off so I only have neutral and drive.
Hey Dan I've got an 05 e250 with the needle all the way to the right... You mentioned in your video that a part's broken If it's stuck all the way to the right... I haven't taken the panel off to see what's broken but do you know what that part is? I've seen shift indicators online for around $20 or $25 with the cable. Is this harder to replace the whole thing than the repair the indicator itself? Thanks, TJ
I know this is an old video but do you know the name of the bushing you swapped at 7:41-7:48? I’ve searched quite a bit and can’t find it. Everything with my shifter column is good other than that bushing between the handle and column, it’s allowing for a decent amount of slope
That 4th hole under the column that didn't have a screw is to take the ignition switch out.... So you don't have to break that plastic cover on it lol.
Dan, you have a great video here.....
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger... and my shifter has been sloppy for awhile; years!. My shifter tube was not broken, but figured after 24 years, if all of the stress, I figured I'd get new parts. The bracket @6:22, I discovered on mine, the bolt sheared right off the other week. I was like how the hell do I get to that!?!? I had no idea it was relatively easy. There was a little stub piece I could unscrew, but it didn't matter since I had new parts. I did end up going to Ford and getting new Star screws. 4 for $15.00 😞
I ended up getting new Tube and Plunger assemblies, and bushings, as shown in the video, starting @5:57 mark. NOT from the Ford Dealership, but OEM Ford parts online. I used white silicone grease to lube up the assembly. And "blue" threadlock to keep things together. Boy, my truck shifts so smoothly..... never in all of the years, do I recall it being that smooth and tight.
As a mechanic I recommend to fully lubricate the inner shaft with a heavy grease, insert the tube. Lubricate the tube (with grease also) where the bushings are with the clamps. You will feel a "tighter" and smoother operation when shifting.
Should have taken it apart and greased it before the shift snapped.
Just did a Steering column repair because of a sloppy gear selector. Over time the metal end of the gear selector will wear away the aluminum gully on the shifter tube. The new damper is a thick rubber, not the metal they used to use. You need to grease the plunger, spring and the lever that goes towards the back. When you drop the entire column by removing the 4 nuts, what can you use to rest it on so that it doesn't pull any wires or harnesses out of place. I removed the 2 front nuts and backed out the back two until the last thread. It's not impossible but some guys leave out the shortcuts on these videos. Splain me some details about the column drop.
Thanks
PJ
My repair went pretty much as explained in the video.
Thanks so much for the very helpful instructions. Here are a few key points that really made a difference:
1. Disconnect the link to the transmission cable before lowering the column (easy to pop off)
2. Mark the footprint of the rear pair of column bolts to aid in re-alignment when re-assembled
3. Don’t bother removing the upper column cover until after lowering the column and be sure to re-install before re-mounting the column. That saved a lot of fussing with this plastic cover.
4. Disconnect the indicator cable early and perhaps dismount it from the column it to avoid damage when the column is lowered. Mine only had one screw and the cable was short enough to become tight before the steering wheel rested on the seat.
5. Dismounting the solenoid bracket to enable removing the tube with shifter bracket attached was a big winner
6. If the width of your hand across the knuckles when pressed against a surface, like a karate punch, is more than 3.5” you might be better off removing the entire column instead of just lowering it. Or, find an assistant with smaller hands.
7. Shift Tube Part Number: 1F1Z7212AA and Shift Tube Bushing: F3TZ7L278A fit my 1992 Aerostar
Thank you
Great info. brotha, you rock
I managed snapped mine in half like this video. Thanks for posting. Just replaced with a new one and am back up and running with my excursion.
Me too, I think this repair is more common than most people think
Was having the same issue that started mild and got progressively worse over a few years (breaking point was when it would intermittently start because it couldn't tell if it was fully in neutral), but luckily my shifter tube wasn't broken - just had loose bolts holding it to the bracket - tightened those up and replaced the plastic bushings on the tube and it goes fully into park again! thanks for your video!
FYI it is much easier in this type of case where you have to replace the whole shift tube or the bushing to leave the dash components in place and just remove the 4 13mm bolts for the whole steering column mount. Once these are removed and the column is free you can drop it down far enough to reach all of the mounting bolts for the entire shift tube, (torx 30) it also make reassembly very quick and easy.
There is a small button under the ignition switch. Put the key in, turn the switch to the on position (not start), push the small button under the switch and the whole ignition switch comes out.
Bingo
Right on
My husband's 2006 Ford F150 will not go into reverse. I drove this morning and did a lot of back up. He said the was stuck in the curb and he gave it some gas, it came off the curb but made a clicking noise. This is an emergency please help.
My explorer had a moderate problem in that it wouldn't go easily into reverse or park. Shop said I needed a new transmission, but I could fenagle it into reverse if I was lucky so I said nope it's not a transmission problem. Took apart my steering column expecting to have a loose or broken shift cable ($50 repair), but this video confirmed to me all that was missing was a bolt to pin the shift tube to the cable. Shop said I needed a $1200 repair, when all I need is a 20c bolt. Thanks for making this video you saved me thousands!
I have a 2003 Ford F-150 and I didn’t have to remove the dash. Great video! It was throughly explained and good with visuals. Literally just fixed mine and it went well. Thank you!!
Wow. Thanks. I had a shop do mine. Some things I pay someone else to do it. I'm old.
Absolutely Awesome Vid. Just had to replace this exact item on my dad's 2000 F250 Super Duty. I completed the entire job with the help of your Video. Thanks Amigo. Very Helpful.
Thanks bro!
Mine broke Sunday in exactly the same place. Thanks to your video I was back in business Tuesday morning.
Thanks from a Grandma in Iowa. Love these DIY videos.
Moved my truck during lunch at work, and it wouldn't go into park. A minute of trying things later and a small bit of metal fell to the floor then I couldn't leave Drive. Thought I broke the cable. Limped it home, disconnected the cable on both ends and it was functioning fine. Transmission shaft lever was working fine. Looked up under the dash, yup the column was broke. Thank you.
Amazingly helpful video. Glad I read through the comments so I didn't have to remove the dash. Replaced the tube and bushing for under $50 with OEM genuine Ford parts. I was able to reuse the inner rod. '99 F-350 XL very happy to be up and running again. The A1 Auto video is also very helpful.
Nice video, thanks. You don't have to take off the upper gauge cluster though. Doesn't really help any and the older ones have a tendency to crack pretty easily, during removal.
True
And probably better to remove the key housing using the release button
Thank you for the instruction video.
I really like how you edit.
ie.. just press the linkage back on (cut video, cuss, swear at it, bandage bloody knuckles) and there you are all fixed, just so easy. Now get me a bottle of Jack to calm my nerves and kill the pain in my hands, and reflect on possibly pay someone to do a half ass job on your truck repairs in the future.
Semper Fi
Don't have a Ford but it definitely reminds me of the tow truck driver that broke my wiper stalk, they were confident in thinking it shifted my car.
U70qqq
Dorman sells a cheaper version of that too. It is a well known issue but isn’t super common. The bushings and loose screws on the end are more common.
InternetDude: do bushings allow gear tube to move or clamps down on gear tube? Thanks
Didn't have this issue, but was troubleshooting another that required me to take apart the column. Thanks for the instructions, especially getting it back together. It was a PITA squeezing the side next to the ignition but got it back on snug.
Just replaced mine on my 02 f-250 plow truck today. Works 10 times better now
Best video of this procedure. You cover every step.
I followed all these directions and this worked perfectly. I would like to add 2 possibilities you may want to check: #1 FIRST check your transmission range sensor (by your transmission, under the truck and is also called a "neutral safety switch"). This was the chain reaction problem that led to me having to replace this shifter column " twice ". This led to requiring extreme force to shift, therefore causing the column shifter to break, then causing the next problem: #2 The Shift cable housing broke from forcing the shifter and bent the shift cable at a 45° angle, leading me to have to replace it also. So...if your range sensor is seized, replace it first, then replace your cable if it appears bent, THEN this column shifter. Remember...the column shifter IS cheap metal...and there has to be a reason it broke in the first place. If you check these 2 items first and they are functioning properly, then it's just wear and tear of a cheap part. Otherwise, you get to learn how to do this in your sleep! 🤣
czcams.com/video/m5aNZ1uQqWM/video.html
This is the explanation of changing out the range sensor
On my 2002 F-150 Supercrew,I never had this issue but at one time I noticed that the shifter was not smooth and required some strength to put it into any gear on the transmission,it made a weird thud or shift every time I did,and some times when I would put the shifter back into neutral or park,it would sound like a crack.This happened very soon right before I ended up selling the truck,I never addressed or looked in to it,but I did mention it in detail to the person who was buying it.
thanks buddy...that really helped....bracket tork screws were backed out
Oh man I miss my 2000 F-150 had to do this to mine it was kinda fun.
Thanks for the video. Replaced the shift tube on my f250 in less than an hour thanks to your video. Thanks again.
9
Ur supposed to use a new pin. the manuals says so anyway.
I just did the bushings on my 98 grand marquis. Then the shifter cable rotted at the trans. Now I need an MLPS because I have to wiggle sometimes in P to start it :lol:. I thought the bushings would fix that.
Great DIY videos you make😊👍 thanks for the part number😊.
My 7.3 Excursion works fine, thanks to your other videos. Watch you from Norway🇧🇻
I’ve done this several times in Crown Vics. The new tubes have been reinforced and the plunger made of steel. I rarely saw the bushings wear out .
Nice job Daniel. I like how you explain clearly the steps.
Just busted my overdrive button off and found out in more depth why and dude you helped me out A LOT!!
Thanks awesome video 👍🏻
Great help. I will say that it was relatively easy even without removing the dash. Small torx bits.
Thanks for the vid. Just did mine on a 04 250 6.0 went smooth. Also this is a very common issue with these vehicles. Typically see them break like.the one you have shown. Or the black plastic bushings completely deteriorate. Thanks again was very helpful!
I have a 2002 Ford Excursion. They charge me $574 to fix it. i had no choice is cold out side,but im happy.
Excellent video thanks. Maybe we should grease the new bushings.
Thankyou. The best explanation video I have ever followed. I am not a mechanic and was easlily able complete the repair following you excellent instruction.
Man I wish I saw the first two minutes and 22 seconds of this video yesterday I was stranded and I thought that they would be away to do what you said but all of my efforts were in vain thanks for your video
excellent video. thanks for this. why dont the mfg make cars that can be repaired anymore? this model year is so easy to repair/fix compared to the new models.
I appreciate the video and way that you service the broken shift Column. My F2 50 has the same problem. Thanks
Great video, lots of details and hints, love it! Question, the screws holding the underside cover, are they Philips? I saw you had a yellow handled driver and what size, #2? Mine just broke and I'm trying to evaluate the damage.
Great video! I have a 92 f250 everything went so smooth, I was even able to fix my broken shifter-directional cable bracket with everything dismantled. Love CZcams
Great repair video. Well explained, clear camera, clear instructions. Saved me real money. I appreciate it very much. Thank you
Show me how where is the wind system is in the shifting column or shorts for the steering column turn signals
Show me the color of the wires for the turn signal in the steering column
My shifter arm/handle is very sticky. Already replaced the two wornout bushings. Can I lubricate the cable? Transmission arm?
followed video to the letter everything works fine now, Only I added something, I put a small dab of silicone to outside of bushings and some never seize to inside of bushing before clamping down,
Bruce Atkinson: does silicon protect bushings because they require movement around gear shift tube? Thanks
I think my ford F-350 has a faulty automatic shift it's drives but I had to put it down to the one and pull it hard. Maybe this issue could be the same issue on my truck
O.K..... I am going to fix my 97 Ranger, I hope.... (pick up the plunger monday, since I had to order it from another distributor -the original was broken in half in shipping - also, Chinese aluminum is of poor quality!! my question is, " Why did you not grease the plunger, clean the spring and grease, and under the new bushings, etc. I ask this because all other YOU TUBE videos i have watched apply ample grease to these areas? thanks, john in co.
Well, giess i know what im doing for the new year. F250, 2004. It has no amenities. Hand crank windows, hand slide seat. No working A/C.
A junker i was about to put up for sale. Then this happened. As a 71 year old woman who did go to vo tec in NH in 1978/80, i can do repairs. But remembering where fussy parts and bolts go back together seems to be a problem. I was always goid at taking stuff apart, not so good reassembling it. Although i did manage to rebuikd from scratch my 1966 Chevy Nova back then. Well wish me luck.
Poor design? You are too kind! :0) It's a pile of crap! I've had nothing but problems with this shifter since I bought my 2002 F-150. It just snapped today and is flopping in the breeze! Love the truck, but the shifter is crap. Thanks for doing this video!
I have a 1997 ford f150. At 10:28 in the video you mention connecting the gear shift indicator cable. What is the white part called that holds that cable in place? Mine is broken and I am looking for the part. thanks for any help.
Thanks SO MUCH for posting this video. My shifter broke the other day and I was able to repair it Thanks to your Video👏👏👏
Great video couldn't have done it alone thankyou
EXTREMELY HELPFUL!!! THANK YOU FOR PART NUMBERS!
awesome video man! my 07 F150 XL (column shifter) is extremely lose and I cannot shift the transmission (I can crawl under and change it from there fine and I drove +150 miles like it since I was on a trip), the truck is currently in the dealership so I'm hoping it's a simple fix as like that, however, yesterday morning when I started the truck and tried shifting, it actually shifted fine! which leaves me wondering! anyway, thanks man for the great video!
I am actually stuck trying to remove the bottom panel from my Ford F150. I can not remove the parking brake nor the hood release from the panel, in order to remove the panel.. Can yuu show a vedeo to show how to remove the parking brake & hood release from the bottom panel.
I would have attached the shift cable while the column was hanging down. Easier to reach from the top.
Great video thanks!!!does this apply for Ford expedition and my light don't turn on .can I bypass that and figure out the difference what gear it's on if no light in the power led ?thanks.
10:12.....if you look through the front you can see the shifter cable and the knob if you grab channel locks you can reach up under and look through and clamp it on very easy ....I put all my stuff back together and it’s really tight won’t even shift proper 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Have you ever rebuilt your 4r100, if so do you have any build recommendations for towing 15,000 lbs. Thank you.
Thank you so much Daniel for take your time to help people.. I did a great job thanks to you
Gr8 video. Excellent tutorial on this repair. Nice bright clear detailed camera work. I have to do this on my 2001 f550. Huge help
Update: all good.. if you don’t buy an OEM (which I didn’t because I wanted to fix it asap) you’ll have to drill out the holes yourself to fit the pins. Other than that no issues. Thought I’d share my experience.
I used doorman on 04 f250 and used the same pins. Knocked them in with a hammer. Super tight fit but they do fit without drilling
Yeah my shifter just collapsed wow u made it look so easy ...but I dont know if I am gonna be that lucky but we will see thank you very much... freaking weird things breakdown on these fords motor tranny bulletproof 201k strong..but thanks again .
How you fix the rod itself if its not broken? My grand marquise refuse to go into park. I already changed my bushings and its still acting up
Fantastic video that helped save me a bunch of money...thanks for sharing your experience and expertise 👏👏👏
You should make a video on the white Excursion, love that thing
One of the torx bolts that holds on the metal plate at the end of the rod sheared off on my 94 F-150. I've been trying to use an easy out and it's been a bitch. The broken off bolt will not out. I'm probably going to have to take the whole damn thing apart :( I've been looking for a video to figure it how to do it so thanks.
I really liked your video.. almost felt I could do this myself!
Thank you Daniel, I have the same problem... but your explanations it'll help me a lot. Regards
Daniel, I'm hoping you can help me. My issue is the metal bracket that bolts onto the linkage with two bolts has broken. I don't know how to find the right part other than going to a junkyard and taking one from a truck. Any suggestions?
The cap screws (holding bushings) pulled the threads out when I backed screws out. Now what???
Will that underneath the dash trick work on an 89 F250?
Just used this info to replace the worn bushings. Thanks
Great editing! Thanks for not wasting time.
So I replaced this for mine and bow my key won't come out of ignition any tips?
Best video out there straight to the point👍🏼
I don't see where the bracket on the back of the tube was disconnected
I think it was snapped off
I got a 95 4x4 7.3 similar problem. I bought as is changed all this already new cable ect. Tried to shift trans by hand from underneath same story. Any other idea? Double checked everything to make sure on connections.
Should the new shifter shift without the transmission line hooked up. Replace the new column but it isn’t shifting up or down
Hey Daniel I had recently replaced my shifter column in my 2001 f 250 super duty but now the horn, dome light, wipers, and power windows do not work along with a bad shifter solenoid....if you could get back to me with any advice please do
how did the shift cable disconnect. Pull it straight off? Or is there a part of the clip that has to be squeezed, pulled?
If you shift it by hand, after hitting the brake, I assume the key has to be in the on position?
Just put mine all the way back together and my linkage is too long to hook onto the shifter
damn fords
What is the thread pitch for the torx bolts that hold the cable arm on if you happen to know? One of mine snapped off so I only have neutral and drive.
I had to get a whole new shifter cable. In 20 years of driving my Ford Ranger every day, since 2011. Other than brakes, nothing. Sell it? Never.
So I just did this and now the truck won't shut off when I turn the key back can even remove the key and it still runs
How did you start that? Mines stuck in drive too
Hey Dan I've got an 05 e250 with the needle all the way to the right... You mentioned in your video that a part's broken If it's stuck all the way to the right... I haven't taken the panel off to see what's broken but do you know what that part is? I've seen shift indicators online for around $20 or $25 with the cable. Is this harder to replace the whole thing than the repair the indicator itself? Thanks, TJ
Mine broke same spot same direction all the way through and my kit from orielys was $44.99 for whole assembly
I know this is an old video but do you know the name of the bushing you swapped at 7:41-7:48? I’ve searched quite a bit and can’t find it. Everything with my shifter column is good other than that bushing between the handle and column, it’s allowing for a decent amount of slope
Great video, I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing
Did you tighten down the shift tube?
Watching video made job easy and saved me money, thanks for sharing
thank you now I can fix my car that has been sitting in the driveway for over a year
Is this basically the same for a Ford expedition? Mine did this today.
Great video but how the heck do u not pull out a vacuum cleaner and clean that dash area up?
Excellent tutorial Daniel!
That 4th hole under the column that didn't have a screw is to take the ignition switch out.... So you don't have to break that plastic cover on it lol.
Ford should bring back the Excursion. Got to be one of the toughest trucks Ford has ever built.
I love the sound of the 7.3 liter powerstrokes. Way better than a CUMMINS
Ford Lover lol CUM MINS look at the first word in cummins lol
ChRoNiUm _NiGhT9, 😂 I get it.
Cumm ins so we can cumm in dodges now xd
my key won’t come out after putting the ignition back in, help