Tp4056 both leds on problem after resistor change.
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- čas přidán 19. 02. 2021
- Swapped the resistor to a 10k / 10k ohm. Look up SMD 0603. On the board but both leds light up? I have read others have had this but I don't have a fix and can't find any information. Seems to be working though so left it as is.
Update. I Iet it charge for a few hours and the red light went off so showing a full charge. Maybe it's working? So I'm carrying on with it.
red light off means charge termination.
You can use multi-meter check battery's DCV should be 3.7v up to 4.1xv
Usually, if both LEDs are on, it means the board is broken.
And when you check by using USB Doctor, the Ampere meter will show 0.0 , it means no current from the charger to the battery.
I have seen the same behavior in my setup but only with some of the cells. I think it has something to do with battery internal resistance (the cells were bellow 1V before attaching to tp4056) - reading the datasheet, the stdby pin should be pulled low via internal switch, which doesn't seem to happen with certain batteries in my setup. I'm guessing that the resistor you changed has some influence to the pull down ability of the internal switch.
The best module is TP 5100, by removing 1 pararel resistor, the charge current will drop to 1A, and no need to use heat sink alumunium to reduce the heat.
The TP4056 module is not so good.
At charge current of 1A, the IC produces heat so high.
both lights mean its nearing the end of its charge and charge current is dropping, red light will then go off once charge is terminated. iv seen this happen when the boardis used with low capacity cells. all cells over 2000mah capacity show correct sequence of charging where the red led goes off and blue kicks in.
at 0:20, I am not sure the B- is soldered and powering together with B+ to the LIPO battery as B- and OUT- are although both were GND but they are isolated ?
Initially when I replaced with 10kΩ R3, and try to charge the LIPO 500mA 3.7V CV 4.2V battery, both red and blue LEDs of TP4056 were blinking, later I found out it is cable connection problem, after I fixed it, it is charging at 103 or 104mA now with single red LED ON, is working fine now.
I tried mine but still both of the LEDS lights up. And I even used carbon film resistors.
Update after i used the micro usb version has larger resistor I changed it but very carefully and also to test try to use a lowbat 18650 and aside from that I used a 6mos 1s bms for the tp4056 module which maches the mosfet both tp 4056 and the 1s 6 mos bms. Hopefully it can help.
just in case someone still facing this issue u only need to replace the 8205a double mosfet . it dies if u draw more than 2 amps or if u short the output with b+ b- by accident
both lights come on when i use a protected battery. i guess the battery's built in protection kicks in sooner and disconnects battery from the tp4056 causing both blue and red light to come on.
For anyone facing the same issue:
Try a different charger cable/adapter combination. It worked for me.
I had this problem. Both the LEDs were on, the 3.7 V battery was just being charged to 3.56V, and was discharging very quickly as well.
I changed the charger and cord and now the same module, same battery is working fine and charging to max as well.
So u just let it charge ?? And then it sorted itself ?
I'm Hvng this same issue.
one question : I have continuity between b+ and out + & b- and out-
I assume this is normal.
If it's not, then maybe that is the reason I have both blue and red light display?
Battery 18650 voltage under load is 2.7v
I do have the same issue AFTER I've used the board for ~4 months.
I connected the TP4056 to a 4000 mAh 21700 Li-Ion and hook up the output terminal to MT3608 (set to 12 V).
I use the system as a "DIY UPS" for my Huawei B312 modem. One day I got an 18-hour power cut, and accidentally discharged the cell to 2.35V (I also leave the cell discharged for 2 weeks). Ever since then, the board just give up charging and both of the LEDs are on. I checked the voltage on the 10 uF caps (parallel to the cell) and I read 2.35V. BUT, when I check the voltage on the IC's BAT pin it shows 4.15V. Also apparently there's a capacitor that are blackened next to C2, idk why it's blackened nor the use / benefit of that second blackened caps. I guess I'll need to buy a new "BMS" for my 21700 then :-/
I usually stop using the UPS after the battery reached 3V, but that day I totally forgot and run the battery until the protection kicks in ( which cuts up power at ~2.6V. ) It should be fine, but apparently it kept discharging the cell to 2.35V instead of 2.6V and now it refuses to charge...
For the lowest possible value the datasheet recommends a 10K resistor for a 130mA charging current. A 300mah could be charged with +300mA though, for which the datasheet recommends a 4K resistor
So if I want to charge a lipo 1000mah I can keep the resistor that ame with the board?
@@rafaelmmartinez9170 check the datasheep of the lipo what is the recommended charge value. if they advice a max value, i would go lower to increase the battery's lifespan. i heard a tumb rule was to device the battery's capacity by 2, so in your case that would mean 500ma
A upper limit of 1C is reccomended, going lower is better for longevity, so, 4kOhm is the smallest resistor possible, and taking 10k is the right decision.
the same thing happens to me, I use a 2w solar panel to recharge a 3200 mAh li-ion.
When it is cloudy and the panel emits less than 5v both LEDs light up, so I think it is indicating that the battery is "charged", because the panel emits less than the battery charge, but also that it is charging, because the panel is feeding, at least some, batteries and esp32.
When the sun is bright the full charge led goes out, I haven't tried yet if it reaches full charge.
Same here
i also have problem.when the blue led is light up before full charge the 18650 battery. why is that?
Ignore it. Seems to work
the problem was the battery voltage level its very low and very discharged u must bring battery to life again its haben to me too
Mine was worst after replacing the r3 resistor on the type c version it wont charge instead a blue led lights up when I connect a usb ammeter there was no current was detected.
Get the same problem. 0 amp. I use volt/current meter to measure the current. I though my meter was broken. Almost throw it into a trash.
Good sir
Try connecting other battery, sometimes bad battery makes those two leds light up.
Hi.
I tried a new battery and bought another board but same result. Looking at drone charging boards now for further projects. For me these boards don't work with low ratted cells as expected.
Yes
Yes I think u r right, same thing is happening with me. I think the battery has some problem. If the battery is fine, either red or blur battery will glow depending on 'full charge' or 'charging' status
Terimakasih tambah banyak chanelnya
Hello.my tp 4056 module red and blue led on at same time.Not charge.where is the problem ?
I find it not a problem although same board charging 18650 battery only has one red light on when charging vs the both lights on
Thanks,but tp4056 does not charge.out put voltage stable at 3.7volts. Both LEDs are on when no battery is inserted
@@kadirklc7241
I can't remember if mine was the same.
Just know both lights stay on until battery is charged.
I have a foggy memory that both lights were on when I disconnected battery when testing it. Can't confirm that.
I tried a second board as I thought it was a faulty board but turned out to be fine.
Which resistor R# did you change? Why did you change it... to limit the charging current?
Did you mean "10 ohm" or 10K ohm resistor?
I copied this. czcams.com/video/oMez6wHsvC4/video.html
Seems to be working so I've left it as is. Not sure why both lights are on but one goes out when charged.
SMD 0603 is the item number if you look them up
@@waynehendry9782 SMH 🤔
@@mrobarton7192 my original video post was to ask why both lights are on when charging after lower the charging rate by swapping the resistor that controls the charge rate. Electronics is not my area of knowledge and I know very little (nothing tbh) not much that is useful online about this problem other than a few forum posts so I hoped to pull in some advise for myself and others . Might take the post down. Probably best option.
Better to use 1/4 Watt Resistor. Don't use SMD resistor. Solder the Resistor as quick as possible.
Both LEDs on, usually as a sign of a broken board.
When you remove the original Resistor / R3, make it quick too.
Solder both ground, ground out and ground battery
The wire should be at b+ b- NOT at out- out+.
Twisting wires into a braid maybe fix the problem, it works for me.
You can change the R3 by using 1/4 Watt Resistor, but solder it as quick as possible, because the other of R3 resistor path is very close to the IC, and has very thin path.
Beware, don't connect the wrong polarity of the battery to the module.
I connected the wrong polarity of the battery to the module. (stupid enough, twice to 2 different boards). The results are very consistent: both leds light up when plugged in with a USB charging cable. Bet the boards are broken.