I connected 2 cells in parallel the circuit still working cause I connected a Heatsink on it. Heatsink always works unless it touch the other components, short circuit and sometimes its the polarity
First thing I did was add a real heatsink to it and fantastic it worked but damn that heatsink does get hot when at 1a the problem is my 18650s are 3a. Now the thing is 1a is bad enough, but the horrible thing about the 4056 is when it gets close to full capacity and revs down. revs down to about 100ma so another 3 hours to finish the 3ah batter to full. About 5-6h. I don't care much for the 4056 due this (plus only 1a was bad enough to begin with).
When it reaches close to 4.2V, it has to rev down to change from constant current to constant voltage. Then it will need to rev down otherwise it will need to increase to voltage above 4.2V if it needs to keep the current high. Since it cannot increase the voltage above 4.2V, it must rev down the current. It does not do the same 1.6A charging current all the way to the end. This is the same to every single LI-ion charger, not just the TP4056.
Now I understand because my TP4056 burned out. I connected them to an 8A / 5V source. Normally over-current is not a problem but in this module it is.
I liked that you maked a DIY heat sink, but you could also submerge the board in a small container of oil
Why would that be needed? There isn't any higher voltage right?
Very nice info!!
I connected 2 cells in parallel the circuit still working cause I connected a Heatsink on it.
Heatsink always works unless it touch the other components, short circuit and sometimes its the polarity
You can put veriable resister.
First thing I did was add a real heatsink to it and fantastic it worked but damn that heatsink does get hot when at 1a the problem is my 18650s are 3a. Now the thing is 1a is bad enough, but the horrible thing about the 4056 is when it gets close to full capacity and revs down. revs down to about 100ma so another 3 hours to finish the 3ah batter to full. About 5-6h. I don't care much for the 4056 due this (plus only 1a was bad enough to begin with).
When it reaches close to 4.2V, it has to rev down to change from constant current to constant voltage. Then it will need to rev down otherwise it will need to increase to voltage above 4.2V if it needs to keep the current high. Since it cannot increase the voltage above 4.2V, it must rev down the current. It does not do the same 1.6A charging current all the way to the end. This is the same to every single LI-ion charger, not just the TP4056.
@@vuaeco I know but 6h to charge a single battery at a time was not for me when we aren't talking about that large of a battery. 2700mah to be exact.
Hi Guy...very good practicle information...enjoyed your video's..
Awesome video as always.
Helpful video 👍
Hi, i think that you will also find that the uncooled TP4056s output is closer to 800mA vs the full 1A.
AMAZING---WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND/EDUCATION?
I'm just a big nerd. I devour every book in sight. :D
@@vuaeco question Sir. Will it shorten the life of a single 18650 battery using 2 amps charger?
Any way to increase the amperage to 10?
Nice video. Anyone tried the TP5000 ? Different version comes in QFN16 JLCPCB
I can get 2.3 Amps charging 18650 by replacing the Rprog = 500 ohm resistor, try another TP4056 and you need to test on a more drained battery.
Do you need to use 3W resistors for this to work?
No