BMW E46 Battery Safety Terminal BST bypass (325, 328, 330, M3)
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- čas přidán 17. 01. 2020
- How to bypass your BMW E46 battery safety terminal (BST). Simple fix, minimal tools required.
It is possible to only replace the terminal with a used one as long as the pyro igniter has not been set off.
See Affiliate link below for available battery safety terminals:
Ebay Link, filter either by used or new.
ebay.us/PKJfSR - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Ah, thanks I needed this. My 2008 Z4m cable blew...no idea why, I was driving very chilled past a school 1 block from my apartment, heard a bang, then after inspecting everything thought it was my imagination, but my car wouldn't start next time I tried. I thought it was a battery problem and upon removing found my live cable in two. Lol. Now I just need to get it a few kilometres to my mechanic. Thankgod for BMW communities, I'm on my 3rd high mileage BMW and the community has been more valuable than anything I could imagine, especially with diagnosing issues. I don't own a drill or several tools anymore so I'm going to try it with several wraps of electrical tape and then professional gaffer tape, and then try to stick the plastic housing back on. Then drive super carefully. I hope it works and holds as the car is in a difficult spot to work on at the moment so it needs to be moved. I just hope it was a fluke and not some bigger issue. The impact of Covid has left my pockets pretty empty. Many thanks and much love.
Unfortunately, they are known for going off on their own on BMW's. Also, you might notice that your airbag light is on in your gauge cluster. If you choose to not fix/install another BST cable, you can either live with light on or you can also deactivate the BST sensor from the SRS system by using PA Soft 1.4 software.
@@eight-motion2870 Thanks, you are so helpful, and that's a relief. I was worried there might be some other underlying issue if this wasn't the case. I'll have a look and see, most likely over the weekend. I managed to get the little plastic case off last night, the z4 version is quite a bit more robust so it was quite a fight (not to mention the akward space to work in). I intend to replace - I like to keep my car tip-top, so I'll be happy enough with the airbag light on my way to my mechanic. I just hope it's easy enough to get the part, I'm in South Africa and some parts are easy to get, others aren't (especially with various lockdowns around the world right now), but I'm sure BMW will order me one if they don't have it, they've been really helpful in the past. Luckily, I don't need my car every day anymore but I don't like the idea of her sitting for too long. I firmly believe a performance engine needs a good run once a week or so to stay healthy.
Thanks, bro! Useful video :)
No, problem. Glad you found it helpful
Hello, mi e46 starts after solving this problem but a few seconds later stops, i also heard about a 2.2 ohms resistance needed to close the circuit in order to start. Thanks!
Thank you 💯
what is the yellow connector? mine on my z3 is broken off.
Thank you so much!!! Even though I have a 2006 325i. I was wondering how to connect these back together matter of fact how to take the black box off and it is a different set up it comes off the same way been working on this for hours thanks man this really helped a lot!!
why not solder it in place? small torch or a hot soldering iron?
Anything to check for if it’s not loose ? I wasn’t in a accident but I was messing with those two fuses under the glove box/dash and now I’m getting the same no crank no start kinds deal and it’s frustrating because I had to get my car towed because of course I did it while on a test drive lol
If you can only hear it click like in the video but the BST cable is still intact, then I would check battery voltage. Low voltage would cause it to not crank. Other than that I would try a different key if you have one. The key transponder is a known issue, especially with the age of these cars.
Hello, I have the next problem with my e46 316i : I was driving the car and suddenly the engine was running very badly ( like it wasen't enough fuel coming to the engine) and at the first stop light, the engine died. Since than, the engine is not cranking anymore and also, when I turn the key on the 2nd position into ignition, the fuel pump doesn't engage ( I Don't hear the fuel pump working). I replaced the battery with a new one and it's the same. When I try to start de engine, the starter makes only click click click… Can you please help me with some ideas? Why my car doesn't get power at the starter and at the fuel pump? May a bad starter cut the power to the fuel pump also? Thank you for any advice.
If your starter only clicks but doesn't turn over your engine, then it sounds like your battery voltage is low. Try hooking up to a jump starter or a pair of jumper cables with another car to see if the clicking goes away.
For your second problem, you should be able to hear your fuel pump prime for at least 2 seconds when you turn your key to the 2nd position. If you don't hear it, I would start with the easy stuff to try and rule out the pump being the issue.
Easiest to check is if the fuel rail system has pressure. Under the hood, remove your central engine cover. There you should be able to see your fuel rail and it should have a schrader valve towards the front. Turn the key to the second position and then press the center of the schrader valve, if no fuels comes out then it means no fuel is getting to your engine.
Three places to check for fuel problems:
1st check the fuse in the glove box compartment (#54 I think). This one goes to your fuel pump relay.
2nd check the relay itself. This one is located behind the glove box. You only need a phillips head screwdriver driver to remove 6 screws and the whole glove box compartment comes off. You are looking for a green relay. In my case I had three greens and one orange in a row going horizontal. Your fuel pump relay is going to the one furthest left. I would try to swap it with one of the other green relays and check if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key.
3rd place to check is the under the hood on the driver side closest to the firewall (where your brake master cylinder is located). You should have a black compartment closed by 4 allen head screws. Pullout the black fuse pack (should say Motor-Sicherungen). Check the fuses.
If it all looks good, then I would assume the fuel pump has gone bad.
Hope this helps!
@@eight-motion2870 Hello and thank you so much for your reply. Yesterday I found the problem, you will not believe what was actually the problem. The alternator clutch pulley has stucked, it turns only in the oposite directin now. That's why the starter was doing juste a click noise, it wasen't able to turn the crankshaft with the accessories belt.
Thank you and I hope this to be helpfull to someone else.
@@raduluparudid u replace alternator to solve the problem ? Im havjng a similar situation
@@bassfunction5452 did you solve it? I have the same problem but it’s not the alternator
My battery is dead and when i try to use jump leads to start her up she doesent, all the lights on dash come on and everything else but when i push the start button it just clicks once and thats about it. Could this be the fix? Its a 2006 bmw 320d auto
The BST cable could be the problem, they are known for going off for no apparent reason.. Best way to find out is to try and wiggle the battery cable and see if it moves. If you have access to an OBD reader, try pulling up the codes in the system and checking if it references anything regarding battery power/terminal issues.
You can also try checking the KI 30g relay behind your glove compartment fuse box, those are also know for going out.
Did you find the solution? I have the same problem as you
Could I use an easier method like electric tape to hold it in place?
Electric tape doesn't hold up too well in warm temperature, it'll loosen up overtime but it's a good "in case of emergency" fix.
I could see zip-ties working. You could probably use 3 or 4 of them, wrap one around the cable portion and one around the terminal portion, then just use the other two to pull them together.
Not sure if it makes sense? Let me know, I can probably make a quick video
@@eight-motion2870 yes that makes sense. Thanks alot! Recently hit a curb and the airbag deployed. Couldn't start car or anything lol. But I will give that a shot
@@eight-motion2870 so basically if you use zip ties, you just need them to hold the cable in place? You don't need to drill a hole and use a screw to hold it?
@@mikebattista8989 Yes, as long as there is metal to metal contact you should have current going through. The screw was really more of a permanent hold fix than anything else.
What’s the yellow cap that connects to the other wire
That cap is part of the pyro that ignites the explosive to separate/cut power to the starter. In this case, it's what pushed the cable away from the battery terminal.
@@eight-motion2870 but what is it called because that's the part I need for my battery and can't find it anywhere! Thanks!
@@epifan3_ you need to replace whole cable thing with connector
Use jumper cables
cut the wire and crimp a new terminal on.5 min
Can you tho? Isn’t there a fuse registering to the brain on the BST
Please don't do this