Project 4L60E part 2 lesson 5
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- This video is about the assembly of the input drum. It's one of my longest, but there was a lot of material to cover. It's also one of the most difficult areas of the transmission to put together correctly with the right clearances. I hope it helps. Watch my videos in order at www.transmissionbench.com.
I am grateful to this man I put together my first 4l60e and he saved my pocket of 1,800 dlls that they charged me to repair it. I think there is no one on CZcams to explain this, it is number 1 on the internet if I could give it a million thumbs up I would do it thank bro 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼
Yup. Great instructor
you are the most helpful man on the internet, i cant believe the detail you get into, i know for a fact none of the transmission shops around get go any where near the depth you cover, you truly have turned your craft into an art, thank you
Thank You
I totally agree.
Steven Zemo p
@@cybil6853 yes
@@transmissionbench7842 this is the best video ever please don't delete the video
One of the best teacher on you tube !!!
Really learning in depth as you are describing each components in detail.
I am very Grateful for the help that I received through the videos and when really concerned or unsure I was able to call him and he helped me solve the issue. The great news is the the Transmission has been working for over a year now with no issues at all. You cannot go wrong listening and watching what this guy does for rebuilding a 4L60e trany. He even tells where the weak point are and what to watch for. thanks again,
Excellent tutorials, no loud music, not working and talking fast or throwing parts on ground. Very professional
I agree. Nobody wants to watch a tutorial with music blaring..
The loudass music and pop up memes that alot of these channels do is very irritating
i rebuilt my 4l6oe and it was perfect the first time this man i a guru
Dude u have got the most descriptive clear understanding videos I've ever watched. You cover everthing needed to know for this part of the installation
On behalf of backyard mechanics everywhere thank you for your videos.
I just rebuilt my 2007 Chevrolet 4L60E following Jimmy's tutorials and it works again! Fantastic video series and presentation. Never thought I'd attempt this procedure but he made it easy as well as ordering the parts I needed. Highly recommended, thanks Jimmy!
@@jims4877 Hey Jim, I'm still going strong. The shifts are crisp and positive and I mostly don't even think about it except to occasionally share that I did the work myself (humble-brag).
@@jims4877 I am mechanically inclined -probably more than most, but not a mechanic by trade. This was my first transmission rebuild and I just followed along to the best of my abilities. Thanks for your comment about the Lancia. I would like to have some more time to do more with it. Ain't that always the case!
Definitely the best 4l60 video I've come across....by far! Much appreciated!!!
Your an Outstanding Instructor, I enjoyed the presentation very much.
These are awesome videos. This is the one area I never tried because it intimidated me. Not anymore.
Just a couple of comments to add as we go into 2020. First, it is important to leak-check the orifaced cup plug in the front of the input housing & shaft assembly. Re-stake or replace after cleaning and fails to seal for the 3rd - 4th apply piston.
Secondly, improved “Blue” rubber compounds that withstands the thousands of heat cycles and wear from movement sold in sets of 3 of steel molded pistons. These will last way longer, unless you need repeat work every 8 years!
I’ve known many techs who skip steps and don’t even know the Oring that goes onto the internal nose of the input forward housing shaft assembly before the 3rd - 4th clutch piston is installed.
ASE Master Tech / 1978 / Retired
Other, nice series of sectioned lessons.
For those building a 82 - 93, TH700r4 - 4L60, using the “Blue” rubber type molded steel pistons, the spring retainer shown at 10:21 is required. It is ACDelco p/n 24206085. It is narrow and has a steel end plates and works with the same clip. This “Blue” rubber compound is 4-5 times more resistant to heat, retains its shape way better and allows for use of the 0.50” boost valve that increases line pressure and can deform the aluminum pistons. Checking for bent or deformed aluminum pistons is in the GM service manual. Low & reverse is the same but by design is heavier to start with.
ASE Master Tech since 1978
How do you leak check the cup plug?
Levi, That a cool name! It is normal to add Solvent or mineral spirits 2 part to 1 part ATF. Using a hypo or straw with finger on end, fill the ball cap almost full. Take a lunch then check under it. Should be dry. Remember, 2 check balls in capsules, one at center rear and other over servo’s. High wear on high mileage cases and rarely checked. GM’s service manual says to use a #4 easy-out, I use a 3/8 fine tap. (Test for fit on size, but use fine) screw in until it grabs & turns. Place a flat plate on VB surface, grab with vise grips, turn, push down on handles if you place a flat fulcrum for pivot 1” back and it should pop out. They say to measure top for depth but it bottoms out with 3/8” drift. Cheap insurance for $6. Best to change, up to you but stay safe and wear a glove to watch fingers. Hope this helps!
(Tip) hit video gear in upper right when at regular screen. Change speed to something faster. See something, slow down to normal the re-play. The easy-out trick is in the video I think. He is an “STG” GM instructor. Have a good one! ASE Master Retired.
I don't know if you read your comments any more, but I wanted to say thank you. I just got done completely rebuilding my 4l70e for my trailblazer SS. the motor makes about 630 hp and some hard track time. built the entire thing with general transmission knowledge and your expertise. so again I say thank you whole heartedly for what seemed an easy build. here's the setup.
the build:
Circle d 3200 stall
Ck performance billet output shaft
Red alto 8 - g3 disks with kolene Steeles
Borg worner 29 element forward sprag
5 pinion planetaries front and rear
ac delco reverse input drum
Red alto extra wide Kevlar band
Sonnax servo with 4th gear super hold
Sonnax pinless accumulators
Sonnax 2-3 shift valve
Sonnax servo release check valve kit
Ac delco servo check valve
ac delco shift solenoids
Ac delco 3-2 downshift solenoid
Ac delco pwm solenoid
Ac delco pressure manifold
Ac delco tcc solenoid
New ac delco harness
New transgo valvebody plate
Sonnax line pressure booster
ac delco pump
Sonnax accumulator 1-2 spring
Sonnax heavy duty sun shell
Sonnax smart tech input drum
Complete gasket and seal kit
ACdelco 3-4 Apply and Backing plates for proper 3-4 clearance:
Complete bushing kit with Teflon front pump bushing
Complete thrust washer kit:
ACdelco 3rd accumulator
Sonnax torlon check valves
Bonded steel 3rd clutch piston:
Sonnax replacement load release springs
Ac delco filter
Converted systemto 6an fittings and lines
B&m external cooler
I plan to rebuild my transmission what's better Alto or Raybestos clutch packs?
Hello hope it's not inappropriate to message you this way but I'd like to ask a question. You appear to be very wise and educated on the tranny issues. 93 Chevy 5.7 no second gear . Do you have any ideas or comments on my problem!! Thank you in advanced!!
@@joshuawilson9086 do you have 3 Rd gear ?
@@bryanmartinez6600 yes sir everything seems fine just will not go into 2nd gear. Although I can pull it down and reverse out of park I can feel it take gear I feel it go to neutral I feel it going Overdrive I Feel It Go in Drive I feel it Go in first but when I put the lever in second gear about two to three maybe four seconds when it should take gear it kills the engine feels like on a straight shift you just dump the clutch
@@joshuawilson9086 I was thinking it would have just been your 2-4 band but these 4L60E fail randomly. I plan to tear apart a cheap rebuilt I bought but has no gears at all it only drags forward even in reverse, I wonder what I'll find.
The best auto transmission assembly video I have seen on the internet. Well done!
Just wanted to say thank you for making these videos ! I just successfully rebuilt my first 4l60e and I watched each video multiple times and found them very helpful !
How many miles did it hold 🤔
Excellent video very in-depth just what I needed
Great video series by this gentleman. Just found him while i was looking to rebuild my transmission myself. Thanks sir
Sir you have given me the confidence to try and rebuild my trans in my 2002 bravada I know something about repair, but never tried to rebuild a trans before, your instructions are very easy to understand and very clear, I have all the tools to do it with and I will be putting my computer in the garage and follow you step by step, it's amazing, youtube and you. I just want to thank you for taking your time out to help many of us that has limited options. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Best set of videos on the net ,Highly appreciate this thorugh detail
I like this,...your detail explanation concerning the clutch, seals and housing was easy to understand, complete and perfect. I thank you very much.
THANK YOU!!! I am stuck in Mississippi rebuilding my transmission trying to get back to my kids in Houston... this video was a great deal of help.. I can't thank you enough!! This is my 1st CZcams subscription and I have been using CZcams for years! You are a great teacher!.
Thanks I haven’t done transmission work in twenty years but I’m confident I will be fine. Thanks again for the advice
Excellent great lesson of 4L60e 3/4 gear clutch assembly, very lovely impressive video, with soft sound.
By far the best made and most informative videos on the net
Thanks for your detailed videos putting the seals in the reverse input drum was the hardest thing for me.
you won a new suscriber sir!!!
Greatness, saved my butt At 70+ hard to remember stuff you read and did in 80s, then do it 2016. thank you, SS gets in , will get on board 5 week months are killers
You are an Great teacher and instruktør, now i want to start working on an 4l60e
Two screwdrivers is what EVERYONE has to try first! Makes for a really good day.
Since this video was made 9 years ago, there are a number of improvements to the 3/4 drum.
Rather than use the type of pistons that failed, use a SEAL-AFTERMARKET Hyper-Blu piston set.
When you take apart the input sprag assembly, if you find the gold washer set as pictured, discard the sprag and washer assembly and replace with an improved Borg Warner set. Also, this video made no mention of inspecting the back or the housing that has the 6 tangs. It should be smooth. If it has grooves, replace it.
When you do the air check to the drum (@30:32), first pour transmission fluid into the area where the spacer and bearing goes. Then apply air. Look for air bubbles. Check the other 2 apply holes and look for air bubbles. No bubbles, good to go, .... got bubbles, then tear down the drum, push out the shaft and re-seal the input shaft to the drum. By the way, nor was it mentioned about checking the drum for wear on the splines where the clutches ride. Look at 31:30. Below the lower teflon seal. Those splines should all be full with no wear. You can see in the picture where the splines are scuffed, but not worn. if the splines are worn, time for a new drum. Odds are you will not find a new drum any longer and will need to find a good used drum. But, yes, there are still new drums available, I keep 4 or 5 on my shelf.
And speaking of the 4 teflon seals, (also 2 on the pump stator) REPLACE them.
Saved my ass man,thanks for excellent ,thourogh presentation
thanks again. I will be rebuilding my 4l60e soon. its a 93 in a 2wd chevy truck with 280,000 miles. its starting to slip. this series of videos is very helpful.
Wow! It's amazing how long some of them last. Even at 280,00 miles, YOU can make it like new again. Thank you for the comment. It inspired me today while writing narration for lesson 6. By the way, since you mentioned that the videos are helpful, do you have any suggestions to make them better? I still have lessons 7 through 10 to write and film, so please criticize the ones I've done so far....and good luck with your 4L60E. Jimmy
Check out www.transmissionbench.com.
the videos are pretty good as is, can't say i would change anything. I've been a mechanic for 30 years but never attempted a trans overhaul. thanks again and looking forward to the rest
Transmission Bench Change Anything? No Sir, These videos are the difference between success and failure. I had a forward sprag that felt smooth as silk, and I was going to drop it back in. You said "take it apart and inspect it". I felt obligated to listen to you since you've done such a tremendous job. Sure enough the brass thrust was so thin you could see daylight through it. So, Thank You for these videos. Joe in Tx
Thanks.
My el460e clutches just went and now I will be attempting this very soon😁 thank you !
How did it go?
Very helpful and no shortcut..thank you
nice video, done at a good speed so can see what you are doing. Thanks for the time it must have taken to make.
He is a great teacher. That gum must be great too, lol🤣
Joshua Rivera I knew I heard something
took me awhile to find this comment! The gum was in part 1 lesson 1 and then disappeared only to return on this vid, part 2, lesson 5. I'm not trying to do a rebuild - only just want to learn and listen to the gum chewing!! It drives some people crazy I guess - I thought it was a lozenge at first for dry mouth. Now I understand it's just all about street cred and "verga" as the Mexicans say....
THIS GUY IS SO GOOD AT WHAT HE DOES YOU CAN LEARN SO MUCH
Thank you so much for your videos
Just a THANK YOU as your video was helpful.
Super GREAT video
Thank you
You earned my Respect and subscription.
OMG don't try to use regular snap ring pliers. It's nearly impossible. Use lock ring pliers, they are made for these type of lock rings and make it so much easier.
I used regular snap ring but holey hell it added many unnesseccary hours, libations and foul language
Your Exactly right ! Many HOURS ! Added time. Now after wasted time I took a chance and got out my imitation Dremel tool with a Cut-off wheel, I cut a tiny grove right past the end.... it worked first try ! Wish I thought of that weeks ago. Of course it only works for reassembly! Be careful u don't cut grove to deep
Joe you have made my life so much easier. Thanks for your time IOU one
I'm watching all your videos awesome instructor
Excelente, muchas gracias me fue de mucha ayuda, muy bien explicado
De Narda
Thanks for letting me know my God bless you
awesome job!
Absolutely superb videos. Very, very well done.
This guy is like the Bob Ross of Transmissions.
Thank you VERY MUCH Sir , for you teachings !
God bless you !
Thanks, Jimmy
I just wanted to add that only 4l60 takes .060 inches of clearence as a minimum between the 3-4 backing plate and first clutch plate. The specification is .060-.094 as stated in the video. However, the 4l60e takes .035" to .083" of clearance. That info is per service manuals. I got on mine 0.45" of clearance for a 2005 Trailblazer. I just wanted to put this here if someone is not getting the .060 despite using different size pressure plates; saving you the hassle 😅 I experienced. Always check your respective GM unit service manual
I was wondering this because I replaced my 3-4 pack with 6 friction plates and 5 steels at .106” and the clearance was only .035” and it was all stock frictions and steels but the video somehow gets .60” clearance event though we supposedly used the same parts. I went ahead and changed one of the steels to a .076”, which gives me an addtional .030” or a total of .065”. I don’t mind being on the higher side.
@brittoncorbin7144 you are good there with .035 i would believe but take that with a grain of salt; i'm not trans rebuilder. Just a general mechanic. However, That's what the Trailblazer unit repair manual states and i have a GM unit repair for 98 and calls the same. I tested different plates and the best i could based on this video was .055. I left it a .045 though.
@@koffeegreaseaddicts thanks. Yes it’s a little confusing because this guy is the guru of tranny rebuilds and he said “it’s critical that the end play be between .060 and .085”. I take him for his word and you know he knows the GM specs so I reading between the lines that the end play needs to be a little higher than the factory specs, otherwise he would have just repeated the factory spec of .035 to .086. But then you research and watch the other videos and everyone aims for .035” which is exactly what I arrived at the first time!! The folks wanting the tight clearance claim it makes for firm shifts but the folks wanting the higher clearance talk about increased fluid flow, lubrication and reduction in temperatures. AHH. Very confusing.
A Great Video and Instructions.
thank u for any help u give
hi i was wondering if someone could help i rebuilt my first tranny a 4l60e and put it in every thing worked just not 3 or 4th gear it would just rev real high like it was slipping but after taking it apart again i noticed my gap was at .105 and its supposed to be between .060 and .085 would this cause the revving problem it seem like it has to be it thanks
yes it would your are probably missing a steel or friction
or one of the shaft seals are bad or the 3-4 piston is leaking like a sumbitch. could be a lot of thing 4 yrs ago probably don't matter now.
you are the man..
Awesome teacher
Best videos ever
It would of been cool to air test that clutch pack b4 dis assembly and show us that there was a major leak n the pack then diagnos the bad piston or broken seal or what ever else could cause that to happen
I've got my transmission tore apart and was not happy with what I saw. I paid 1300.00 dollars 5 years ago to have it rebuilt and all the clips on harness broke, harness shell broke in half valve body bolts loose . My main problem was 2nd and 4th slipping found drum burnt and band burnt , drum is ruined luckily I got one out of my practice transmission and harness is pinned the same just have to cut pwm solenoid out . Thanks again will let you know how it turns out .
Hey I have a 04 gmc sierra with this trans and a new process 246 behind it. Do you know if transmission fluid is supposed to come out around the output shaft on the transmission in between the transfer case. I have my transfer case out and just rebuilt it and noticed with the engine running fluid squirts out around the output shaft on the transmission. is this normal our do I have a seal leaking. Thanks in advanced for any advice.
Hi Tyler. This is normal. The adapter housing will have fluid from the transmission in it. If you look, you'll notice that the splined input shaft of the transfer case has a seal around it to keep the two areas separate. Jimmy
What if the input housing has a few scuff marks around the top rounded edge of the housing (About 1/2 inch below the top where the splines are on the drum). The scuff looks like it is from where the reverse input drum sits on top of the input housing. Could the scuffs on the input housing be caused from that? Or maybe from 3-4 packs being burnt out, hence why my truck only had 1st, 2nd and reverse? Once my truck shifted to 3rd it was like I had pushed in the clutch but on a automatic transmission.
Not an auto grans guy, but this is a great tutorial!
Please help Can you tell me why my truck will start off good will go from first second and third will not go in to fourth .. once it has went through first second third it will not downshift and if I downshift manual it only goes back to second if I shut off the it will go back to first and do it all over again
Appreciate for good explanation
Very nice video
Hi I got a ford freestar and the problem is : first of all , the van is driving and shifting perfectly but after 15 ,minutes every gear begin to slip. What do u think that is the issue jimmy? Thanks for your time and in addition, yours videos are the best
+Jonathan Nourian Hi Jonathan. The booster valve and sleeve in the valve body of these transmissions wear badly too. After the fluid thins out from heat, the pressure drops. Jimmy
bench do u have that repair kit to buy?
Hi. Unfortunately I do not carry parts for those transmissions. You might try calling Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts. Their number is 1-800-940-0197. Jimmy
thanks Jimmy appreciate it
great job
is it just me or can i hear chewing threw the entire vid drives me nutz
very annoying!
Good work
I have a 1996 impala SS, with that being said, the three pistons in the input housing are cast aluminum. Will the 1997 or newer steel bonded pistons work in the older style 4l60E's?
Why is air coming out of check ball capsule in input drum very little when I apply air pressure to bottom hole??
how much wear is acceptable on both journals on the shaft? I feel a very light step but I don't know if its really bad or not.
Great job on the video but my God your gum chewing was driving me nuts!
I'm not quite done with part 2, Lesson 5 - taking a breather to read comments like yours, so I can collect some empathizing on the gobsmacking implications.
Great video. Who is chewing gum though? Him or the camera guy? 😂 notwithstanding, excellent information 👍
The Bob Ross of transmission’s
There are no mistakes, only happy little accidents. Right!
We 3 ways, being shown, being told and just doing. If you have found this series of lesson, although almost 6 years old now as we head into 2020, the lessons learned are still true today.
ASE Master Tech in 1978, I have made my share of happy little mistakes myself. To be expected as self taught never going to a trade school in the late 60’s, but always learning, now it’s easier.
R.I.P. Bob Ross
God has new wall paintings to great you...
you never mentioned how the 1993 version assembly goes. its slightly different and i cannot continue and have to look else where to finish that portion for the 3-4 clutch pack assembly and im having a hard time finding info on my year 4l60e
I disassembled my drum assembly and was able to get the overrun piston out how do you get the bottom section out so you can access the 3/4 piston I don't want to damage anything and I talked to her in a little bit I just don't want to put too much pressure
Why do I have to get my RPMS up higher than normal to get reverse to ingauge? All of my other gears work and the fluid is at proper level.
I've seen plenty of transmission performance companies that like to install 9 clutches in a pack and can go as far up to 15 stacked! Do they simply use thinner clutch frictions and steels to achieve this, or do the bearings and washers have to be modified as well?
Is it recommended to replace all the steel clutch plates when you are doing a full rebuild?
Question I was taught how to do Ford Transmissions about 40 years ago I haven't done one sense my question is my instructor told us to always rough up the steel plates with fine grit sandpaper and then clean them I don't see anybody doing that anymore is it not necessary please advise
Where do I get the correct overhaul kit? Mines a (94 4L60E one piece case) and I'm beginning to lose 4th gear. It's attached to a chevy 350 in my 94 chevy c1500 Cheyenne. I've got a pretty big parts list cause this transmission has never been touched except to replace the engine. I'm expecting everything to be worn out that you show could be.
I'M HAVING TROUBLE . ITS LIKE THE CENTER SHAFT IS UP TOO HIGH, TO ALLOW THE INNER SNAP RING TO FIT. WE HAVE TACKEN IT BACK APRT TO NO AVAIL. ANY IDEAS?
As I view this video at around 16.20 or so, I see that the sun gear snaps in and out of the sprag race - with the need to use a hammer. On my 1997 unit, this sun gear does not need to be installed or removed from the race with a hammer, it is easily removed by hand... Is that normal? Is that a sign of excessive wear? or is this normal?
+Tom Joyce Hi Tom. This is normal. I explain in the videos that earlier 4L60Es don't snap into the sprag assembly. Yours will work fine. thanks, Jimmy
+Transmission Bench Thanks for the reply. Your video series on the 4L60E have helped me a lot on my project.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
I did use the .060 to .085 and .one is working fine but it looks like they recommend .025 to .040 so I don't know I hope it last my kit car with the alto power pack with 9 frictions and some different sized steels and another I believe top plate but I don't recall
are we suppose to push down a little to flatten that "waivy" spacer to find the correct "end gap?"
anyone??...
thanks!
larry
Good work good
just found this video...nicely detailed video btw! will the 4l60e rebuild videos help me with rebuilding a 700r4?
Muchisimas grAcias. Por compartir .
At 15:37, how is the input sun gear disassembled from the flat washer and collar?
very detailed. Nice
Great video.In My 4L60e,in my 2000 Chevy s10,I was driving and noticed it slipping a little.All of the sudden it quit pulling.Like it went to neutral.Next day it worked until it got warm,then nothing.What you think.
When I apply air to the lowest hole (to apply the 3-4 clutch pack) the air just comes out the hole on the end of the shaft next to the check balls (3). Any idea whats going on?
Jacob Mears I am having the same issue. Did you figure it out?
does the 03-04 input drum have an o'ring
Great video this is exactly what I needed I appreciate you taking the time of going step by step on it. One question please is my 1996 chevy 2 wd has no reverse or forward what should I be looking for when I get in the de assembly please and thank you
Hello Federico. If you have no forward or reverse, I would suspect the pump rotor has shattered. This is quite common.
So my 4l60e is a 1 piece from 94 the 3-4 piston spring set is different than what you show. Yours is 1 piece mine is 2 from the 94 version so im assuming i have to use old one??
At 16:44 you state to replace the bushings, how do I replace the bushings from the sungear? I see you separate the gear but I don't see how you replace the race bushings.
My 700r4 has aluminum pistons with the rubber seals, would it hurt to use the steel ones that also came with my rebuild kit? They seem to fit as well.
Que buena explicación gracias