Great video and information. Solved the issue on my car where there were no codes at all but kept giving service message warning. Changed the solenoid above the vacuum chamber housing and the pipes and now running very well. Thank you for posting. 👍👍
Another score for your great video. Worked spot on for me. Thank you for taking the time to record this and in such an easy way to follow. The symptoms were exactly the same as mine. Thank you!
@@adambarry6223yes. Bought a small plastic tee, removed the hoses where they connect onto the vacuum manifold and joined them all with the new tee. Car now better than ever.
I had the same issue with mine and diagnosed it the same way replaced the egr selonoid (the one you removed) and the cooler/ vacuum manifold, but that did not change a thing, i decided to just bypass it and been doing fantastic .
Awesome video helped alot.... can I just bypass the vacuum pot on the egr altogether and just go straight from vacuum pump to turbo... egr has been mapped put my car so does the vacuum still need to go to it?
The exact thing happened to me this week. Had the egr cooler part replaced for a leak at the garage. Picked up the car and felt like it was in limp mode with service vehicle soon warning. Took it back and the turbo solenoid wasn't fitted back properly. 😅
Hi guys! I have the same sh++ problem! Z19dth less power and louder exhaust! According this video I should check turbo sense line?! Thank you in advance!
Wonder if that’s what has just happened to mine. Worked fine last night then today it felt very difficult to accelerate. Brakes weren’t sticking, no warning lights, but felt like there was a resistance when putting my foot down to accelerate and it took about 12 seconds to go from 60-65 on the motorway.
I had a DTC p0045 on the motorway i had no power luckily i had my obd with me i plugged it in and removed it the car had power again. So what's my options here.
You actually have a side exhaust. It looks wavey tbf 🤘 also informative video thanks ! Not sure what issue is with mine have just done imjector seals last kigjt. Today after running for 4 hours , big whoosh noise suddenly. Loss of power wont rev past 3.5rpm. Possibly multiple vaccum leaks and intercooler pipe worn as its very soft and has oil all around
My Astra 2.0 CDTI has From time to time also no boost pressure and the message that I should drive to the workshop. Errors are boost pressure too low and too high and various other messages. I suspect the MAP sensor But aI haven't thought of negative pressure hoses yet. The vehicle has run 240000 km. And suddenly I also have more pressure with the exhaust gases from the exhaust. The only strange thing is that I don't always have the problem with the boost pressure, if I turn the car off and on again, the problem is solved. At some point it comes back, but not regularly.
Very interesting video m8, ive had new turbo fitted, boost sol valve replace on slam panel and still no real boost from standing start, i do have coolant leak and will be looking to replace erg housing but b4 that i have to replace brake boost pump which has an oil leak on outer casing so as that has to be done first it will be interesting to see if this cures my boost issues...
I have got 2011 Sri cdti never had any issues I m very happy with it serviced it all the time on time but lovely video and brilliant experience you have learnt a lot many thanks keep up the good work
What happened to the I-beam RC Truck Build? I loved seeing you figure your own way building I beam suspension and 4 link rear. Just wish you showed the final product.
It's a common fault that these valves fail. You will hear a groaning noise from them when you turn the engine off. Just replace the valve and your golden. They don't cost very much money
I'm really sad to discover lots of videos about the 2l cdti , I thought they were nearly bulletproof , not that every doesn't have some niggles , such a shame I still love the astra gtc 2l cdti
I have the same engine is an Alfa Romeo 159. The block and core of the engine is bulletproof. But as with so many modern engines, it's let down by arguably unnecessary complexity and 'gizmos' fitted to that block - almost always for emmissions control. The components that were covered in this great video are a good example of that. And the fact that the car still ran well (perhaps better) with some of these gizmos bypassed, proves how unnecessary these sub-systems are. If you delete the EGR, DPF, Swirl flaps and the EGR cooling solenoid - you should have a pretty simplified, reliable, well performing engine. One thing to note is that this engine is very very sensitive to MAF and MAP sensor health. A MAF that is even just 5% dirty or ineffective (eg. due to wiring degradation), you can lose a lot of power, further up the rev range. These cars need Bosch MAFs in perfect working order and clean. I tried 4x cheap, unbranded replacement MAF sensors on mine. Everyone resulted in a loss of power. When I finally fited a Bosch MAF, the car was fine and all power restored.
my 2014 insignia it's loosing power sometimes the service vehicle soon it's popping up I had that 2 months ago brought to a diagnosis they said glowing plug 3,4 and fuel pump I had them changed and 2 days ago the svs propped up again and then the car it's losing power no more then 3000 revs should be the other 2 glowing plugs or should be the same problem you had because I checked and I actually have same leak you show you had
mate my sister is terrible with cars.she has a insignia she was driving along the dueler never speeds but lost all power.i checked her oil and it was like tar.towed it to my house and changed the oil.still no power.bought a obd reader and that came up with problem with egr and turbo but also one of the glow plugs are duff.i wouldnt worry about the glow plugs tho they just help to heat the diesel to start the car but other than that they dont work while the car is running.i will be taking off her egr when i have time.no doubt that will be stuck open and causing it to not go over 2500 revs.other than that on idle its ticks over fine
Ive got problem with my vauxhall insignia. Fuel rail pressure sensor. Changed it, changed fuel filter. Same problem. Can any one suggest something to me please.
Hi I’ve a 142 insignia and I’ve the exact same problem by any chance did you figure out what it was, I’ve put a new fuel rail and fuel filter on it, if you’ve any update please let me know
I've just bought a vauxhall insignia 2.0 diesel as I'm driving home on lancs motorway I noticed car wouldn't go above 50mph speed frigging guttted / the previous owner won't answer my calls now bastrd
DID U FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM 🤔 I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM EVEN AFTER CHANGE DPF ,OK FOR SOMETIMES THEN BAD AGAIN ( garage reset it 2 time)but 💩TODAY NEED MAKE THE CAR HOT SO IT CAN GET SPEED🤯😣
German cars are just as shit my 320 has been nothing but headache, clutch and flywheel ,gearbox replacement,dpf blocked , abs rings , crankshaft pulley cracking, I've also owned VW's in the past with alot of common faults too.
Lol! Since around 2005, German cars are proven statistically to be some of the most unrelable on the road. Endemic injector failures, DPFs that cannot regen effectively, EGRs that block with just a couple of short stop-start journeys. They are terrible. And VAG lied about emmissions and MPG performance on their cars and were fined EUR 1bn!
Hi the pipes you have joined up is it the 1 originally from the vacuum pump and the other from the back of that sensor that ain't working with the pipe from turbo solenoid to the vacuum pump thanks
Great video and information. Solved the issue on my car where there were no codes at all but kept giving service message warning. Changed the solenoid above the vacuum chamber housing and the pipes and now running very well. Thank you for posting. 👍👍
At 1:54 ... "there's no waste gate" ... now the world makes sense again. Thanks OP.
Now thats how its done, troubleshooting to the detail + cause reveal...briliat job!!
A very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate the issue and for coming up with a clever fix.
Brilliant video you saved me from an expensive bill as my insignia was the same issue
Good explanation. I've definitely learnt something here. Keep the videos coming. Thanks. 👍
Another score for your great video. Worked spot on for me. Thank you for taking the time to record this and in such an easy way to follow.
The symptoms were exactly the same as mine. Thank you!
Did you bypass it to ?
@@adambarry6223yes. Bought a small plastic tee, removed the hoses where they connect onto the vacuum manifold and joined them all with the new tee. Car now better than ever.
Thanks for sharing the info. I will keep it in mind next time something fails.
I had the same issue with mine and diagnosed it the same way replaced the egr selonoid (the one you removed) and the cooler/ vacuum manifold, but that did not change a thing, i decided to just bypass it and been doing fantastic .
I’d like to say thank you for this video based off this I have now sorted my car and saved 100s on a turbo
Thank you for this detailed explanation. I had the same problem and solved it easily🙂 Thanks again and keep up the great work 🙂
Thanks for sharing this dude.
nice vid mate. Very informative. Good work.
Can any show with pictures where the fuel cut off switch is on a eco flex insignia 15plate ? Thanks
Awesome video helped alot.... can I just bypass the vacuum pot on the egr altogether and just go straight from vacuum pump to turbo... egr has been mapped put my car so does the vacuum still need to go to it?
Thank u so much, did this part of egr valve cosing this check engin code p003a?
The exact thing happened to me this week. Had the egr cooler part replaced for a leak at the garage.
Picked up the car and felt like it was in limp mode with service vehicle soon warning.
Took it back and the turbo solenoid wasn't fitted back properly. 😅
Hi guys!
I have the same sh++ problem!
Z19dth less power and louder exhaust!
According this video I should check turbo sense line?!
Thank you in advance!
Wonder if that’s what has just happened to mine. Worked fine last night then today it felt very difficult to accelerate. Brakes weren’t sticking, no warning lights, but felt like there was a resistance when putting my foot down to accelerate and it took about 12 seconds to go from 60-65 on the motorway.
Did u you pipe to connect them at first to check mate
I had a DTC p0045 on the motorway i had no power luckily i had my obd with me i plugged it in and removed it the car had power again. So what's my options here.
You actually have a side exhaust. It looks wavey tbf 🤘 also informative video thanks ! Not sure what issue is with mine have just done imjector seals last kigjt. Today after running for 4 hours , big whoosh noise suddenly. Loss of power wont rev past 3.5rpm. Possibly multiple vaccum leaks and intercooler pipe worn as its very soft and has oil all around
Whats that thing called that cause problem which you bypass? Why not to put new one instead of bypass? Will new one does not work ?
Hi great video! I recently had my dpf removed and deleted and it’s coming up with an air flow sensor did you run into anything like that buddy? Thanks
Might be helpful one day, cheers bud
You are the best
replaced the egr vacum solenoid but still the same issue…no boost. Turbo vacuum solenoid is working
My Astra 2.0 CDTI has From time to time also no boost pressure and the message that I should drive to the workshop. Errors are boost pressure too low and too high and various other messages. I suspect the MAP sensor But aI haven't thought of negative pressure hoses yet. The vehicle has run 240000 km. And suddenly I also have more pressure with the exhaust gases from the exhaust. The only strange thing is that I don't always have the problem with the boost pressure, if I turn the car off and on again, the problem is solved. At some point it comes back, but not regularly.
Can u send us a picture of how u have done this please
Very interesting video m8, ive had new turbo fitted, boost sol valve replace on slam panel and still no real boost from standing start, i do have coolant leak and will be looking to replace erg housing but b4 that i have to replace brake boost pump which has an oil leak on outer casing so as that has to be done first it will be interesting to see if this cures my boost issues...
Good luck finding the fault.
I have got 2011 Sri cdti never had any issues I m very happy with it serviced it all the time on time but lovely video and brilliant experience you have learnt a lot many thanks keep up the good work
I have a 2011 sri and I hate it, I've had it for 7 months and it's never run right. I wish it would spontaneously combust
@@scotty1004 I have a car like that wish I walked away .
I've got the bi turbo 4x4 I love it. Service it every 3k miles myself it runs lovely
What happened to the I-beam RC Truck Build? I loved seeing you figure your own way building I beam suspension and 4 link rear. Just wish you showed the final product.
Sorry to say but I never got it to work properly and moved onto other projects.
@@engineeringchroniclesunedu5757 All good, hope everything works out and I see you a year from now building cars like Cleetus McFarland
Qual e o nome deste sensor.
It's a common fault that these valves fail. You will hear a groaning noise from them when you turn the engine off. Just replace the valve and your golden. They don't cost very much money
I'm really sad to discover lots of videos about the 2l cdti , I thought they were nearly bulletproof , not that every doesn't have some niggles , such a shame I still love the astra gtc 2l cdti
I have the same engine is an Alfa Romeo 159. The block and core of the engine is bulletproof. But as with so many modern engines, it's let down by arguably unnecessary complexity and 'gizmos' fitted to that block - almost always for emmissions control. The components that were covered in this great video are a good example of that. And the fact that the car still ran well (perhaps better) with some of these gizmos bypassed, proves how unnecessary these sub-systems are. If you delete the EGR, DPF, Swirl flaps and the EGR cooling solenoid - you should have a pretty simplified, reliable, well performing engine. One thing to note is that this engine is very very sensitive to MAF and MAP sensor health. A MAF that is even just 5% dirty or ineffective (eg. due to wiring degradation), you can lose a lot of power, further up the rev range. These cars need Bosch MAFs in perfect working order and clean. I tried 4x cheap, unbranded replacement MAF sensors on mine. Everyone resulted in a loss of power. When I finally fited a Bosch MAF, the car was fine and all power restored.
I also have this engine in a 159, its broken my heart and destroyed my wallet but im still in love
my 2014 insignia it's loosing power sometimes the service vehicle soon it's popping up I had that 2 months ago brought to a diagnosis they said glowing plug 3,4 and fuel pump I had them changed and 2 days ago the svs propped up again and then the car it's losing power no more then 3000 revs should be the other 2 glowing plugs or should be the same problem you had because I checked and I actually have same leak you show you had
mate my sister is terrible with cars.she has a insignia she was driving along the dueler never speeds but lost all power.i checked her oil and it was like tar.towed it to my house and changed the oil.still no power.bought a obd reader and that came up with problem with egr and turbo but also one of the glow plugs are duff.i wouldnt worry about the glow plugs tho they just help to heat the diesel to start the car but other than that they dont work while the car is running.i will be taking off her egr when i have time.no doubt that will be stuck open and causing it to not go over 2500 revs.other than that on idle its ticks over fine
what was the error code please
What happened to the AJ30 build?
The RX8 donor car went to the scrap yard and the engine is currently sat in the garage. Might us it for another project in the future.
Good job What is the DPF for anyway?
It's a diesel particulate filter , for emissions I believe
Did you have any boost in high rpm? i have no boost from 1500-2500rpm
That sounds like a potential MAF or MAP sensor failure.
Ive got problem with my vauxhall insignia. Fuel rail pressure sensor. Changed it, changed fuel filter. Same problem. Can any one suggest something to me please.
Hi I’ve a 142 insignia and I’ve the exact same problem by any chance did you figure out what it was, I’ve put a new fuel rail and fuel filter on it, if you’ve any update please let me know
I have problem with my Astra J 2.0 CDTI 160km, turbo works, no fault codes, but car doesn't have full power.
Did you solve the problem?
@@GamingSimen no
I dont have that thing that moves
I've just bought a vauxhall insignia 2.0 diesel as I'm driving home on lancs motorway I noticed car wouldn't go above 50mph speed frigging guttted /
the previous owner won't answer my calls now bastrd
My insignia just lost power. The only message that pops up on the dash is “service vehicle”. Do you recon it could indicate the clogged DPF?
potentially glow plugs. mine had same issue with svs code. fitted 4 new glow plugs at 100 quid each and reset svs code and now no svs code
DID U FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM 🤔 I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM EVEN AFTER CHANGE DPF ,OK FOR SOMETIMES THEN BAD AGAIN ( garage reset it 2 time)but 💩TODAY NEED MAKE THE CAR HOT SO IT CAN GET SPEED🤯😣
A little late but I had this problem and turned out to be a split (I couldn't see it but it was leaking) turbo inlet pipe. £30 and hour to change.
Hope mine is simple as a pipe 🙏
@@mattashton2039I smell bullshit . Or I smell a fool .one of the two
Good day, it would be nice if there was a Turkish
Holt shit man get to the point !!
Stick to German cars insignias are trouble hense why they are not popular as a taxi.
German cars are just as shit my 320 has been nothing but headache, clutch and flywheel ,gearbox replacement,dpf blocked , abs rings , crankshaft pulley cracking, I've also owned VW's in the past with alot of common faults too.
Opel is German lol
They were under GM so opel was more american car than german xD
IT has more to do with the size at the boot... the rest is like anyother, got 2 Insignias and happy about it.
Lol! Since around 2005, German cars are proven statistically to be some of the most unrelable on the road. Endemic injector failures, DPFs that cannot regen effectively, EGRs that block with just a couple of short stop-start journeys. They are terrible. And VAG lied about emmissions and MPG performance on their cars and were fined EUR 1bn!
Hi the pipes you have joined up is it the 1 originally from the vacuum pump and the other from the back of that sensor that ain't working with the pipe from turbo solenoid to the vacuum pump thanks