How Pants Should Fit - Ultimate Guide To Mens Dress & Suit Trousers - Gentleman's Gazette
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
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00:00 Introduction
Finding a perfect fit for pants is a huge challenge and although most people look at the jacket, it's a more difficult garment to fit, getting pants to fit properly is very very difficult as well and often neglected.
01:56 Components of Pants
Waistband → the strip of fabric sits around your midsection.
Front & Seat → the area around your butt, between the waistband and upper thighs
Rise → the measurement between the legs from the front of the waistband to the back; Low rise sits on the hip, mid-rise between the navel and hip, and high rise sit at the natural waist ( close to the belly button or directly on it)
Cut → the style of the trouser with regards to how close-fitting it is to the body
Inseam → the finished length of the legs of the pants, measured from the inside seam
One aspect of pants that depends on the current fashion is the fit. If you go back to the 20s, they had Oxford bags which are cut extremely wide, lots of volume, lots of fabric.
04:55 How Should Pants Fit?
A classic pair of pants should never have any puckering, pulling, or wrinkling. A wrinkle that shows that something is too tight is usually in the shape of an X and so you can always tell "Oh, something is too tight here and needs to be let out." Of course, you can only do that if there's enough fabric to let the pants out. Back in the day, tailors would use heavier fabrics that draped really well and would create a clean, nice look. Today, most fabrics are very lightweight because most people assume that they are too hot.
The second hallmark of well-fitting pants are the pleats. If you have a single center pleat, it should go down all the way to your shoe in one straight sharp creased single line and it should just slightly open up on top.
Three, the line of the pants should be straight. there should be no breaks in the front or in the back except for the amount of break on top of your shoe in the front.
The fourth thing I look at in pants is the knee area because if the crease hangs straight center in the front and in the back, you know you have a well-cut pair of pants. If it's slightly off to the side, to the outside or to the inside, you know an alterations tailor will have to make adjustments.
07:45 Final Tips for Great-Fitting Pants
Overall, you may think this is a lot of things for such a simple garment and yes, our standards are quite high and personally, I would say that I only have two pairs of pants that I think fit perfectly for me so high standards are a good thing because there is always something you aspire to but don't be afraid and here are a few final tips that help you in getting pants that will fit well.
Do not buy goal pants because chances are, you won't get it in the shape you want at a point in time so the pants will never fit and stay in your closet.
Do not be afraid of pleats. Most men today think that pleats are outdated but in fact, you should just look at your body and if you have bigger thighs, a bigger seat, pleats are always more advantageous for you.
In the same vein, don't be afraid of cuffs or turn ups because they provide extra weight at the bottom of your pants.
#pants #trousers #dresspants
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I just got fitted for my first suit, and the stylist insisted that I not get pleats. She tried HARD to talk me out of pleats. No way. My thighs are way too big for flat front to look good. I tried on the pleats and really liked the look. They are not just for old men!
pleats are the way to go!
Especially for guys with bigger thighs, pleated pants are indeed the way!
Same 😂😂😂 I regret listening to the tailor 😭
Pleats are much more comfortable and take stress off the front of the fabric so they don't stretch weirdly after years of wear. Especially if you sit a lot while wearing a suit
When it comes to fits, women tailors would know much less because of their lack of personal experience in men's suits which is very different than women's suit.
When I was younger I used to just buy OTR and not give a crap about the fit. Now that I’m older and more experienced with fashion thanks to these videos, I am obsessed with the perfect fit so I need to tailor every piece of clothing I own. Even my condoms are now tailored fit to accommodate my slight curvature. I have an exclusive contract with Kimono.
Lol!
Ha ha ha ha ha ha lol
...my first extravagance, at 21, was a made to measure 3 piece pinstripe from Burtons without anything but the cut to hold up the pants, with hidden pockets, i had it for years. The kind of skin to fall asleep in at parties and to wear the next night out. Worth the 36 quid? Not half !
yea OTC Durex dont fit well. tailoring is the way to go
Underrated
And had us in the first half
These videos are an absolute wonder and I’ve applied the knowledge here to my navy uniforms as well, to ensure I can really take my professional look to the next level! I highly encourage my fellow officers and junior sailors to watch your channel so that we can look our absolute best and take a sense of pride in our uniforms! Also to see what little things we can do to express our individual tastes (such as cufflinks, time pieces, pens, etc.).
I sincerely appreciate you all taking the time to make these videos since it has helped me and many others! Thank you Gentleman’s Gazette!
I am so thankful for this channel even as a woman those videos has helped me a lot with getting the perfect fit on my suits even though some things differ. Please keep up the good work, I understand that this is a gentlemen's channel but I would love if you did some videos on women's classic fashion as well! It's pretty hard to come by.
Thanks for the very informative video. I like how you admitted that you only have 2 pairs of pants that actually fit perfectly. That type of cantor is greatly appreciated and makes your videos very credible. I will look forward to your future posts.
Thanks for the support!
Paul Harlock ...ha ha funny! Thanks
Right? It's good to know that not every suit is perfect
It was a great comfort to hear that even sensei Sven only has two pair of pants that fit perfectly. It surely is a lot to consider!
Thanks for a great video. This is the only chanel on youtube that I really trust when it comes to clothes!
Sean Connery wore great suits in his 1960’s James Bond movies, can you do a vid on that style ? Thanks !
This is so helpful even for me, because women's trousers are often too tight and I didn't know how to make them look good. I think all these tips are applicable if this is the look you want, regardless of your body shape (ie my female bum and thighs!)
Great information, and that jacket your wearing in this video is beautiful.
Great video as per usual. Can you please do one on matching different coloured waistcoat, trousers and jacket? It appears to be considered tricky but some chaps seem to pull it off successfully. Is there a secret to matching three distinctly different coloured pieces? Also, could you do a video on safari jackets?
Awesome backdrop for this video, Raphael!
I like how he says big bum
THICC
You two are weirdos, man.
Brian Dawkins
Welcome to the Internet.
Don Parmesan lol
I think he wanted to say he is bottom
Had to watch this video a few times; lots of info. My new pants just came in and they need some alterations.
Thanks Sven.
Lots of information, thank you!
yesssss! been waiting for this video!
I have a tailor that made me a 50 $ custom suit in Pakistan. Cloth in Pakistan is VERY INEXPENSIVE. This tailor makes suits for brands in bulk (off the rack suits) which then retail for 300 - 500 $ or more. I went to the guy and got a custom suit made for 50 :-D
i am also from pakistan 🙃
Jeez, and I thought I was getting a good deal. In turkey, bespoke is 300 (including local fabrics) or about 1300 (with italian fabrics)
Always thank you for great videos
You are welcome.
Awesome video, just needed this!
+Dániel Hajzer thanks
After seeing this video I urge you to make a video on all type of waistbands
Love the Channel, since I discovered gentleman's gazette you have really helped me elevate my wardrobe. Keep the excellent videos coming
You're welcome!
Great video you are very knowledgeable thank you so much
Could you do a video about dressing gowns, smoking jackets and other similar articles of clothing ( I have already read your article on your site)?
I just love this guy -
Thank you! I was so tired of people telling me that my trousers should be tight, which is why i stopped wearing any. I didn't like that they didn't drape, and just felt uncomfortable.
Please do Jeans Next!!!
Thank You
A proper gentleman does not wear jeans ;)
Silas Antonisen jeans are excellent work wear and casual/travel wear.
r71oats6 hahaha I like your style I don't know if I fully agree but I can appreciate a classic sense
Really helpful
Your sir are not a lier, but certainly your pants are on fire. I love your videos. Subbed
Excellent I really learned a lot, thank you.
Enjoyed this information thoroughly quite a lot of helpful tips on getting the proper fitting trousers....in one of the clips in the video I notice a pair of pants with a fishtail waist which I find is superb for wearing with suspenders can you recommend where I can get a pair similar to those thanks.
He is floating from right to left and back. Def He is wearing confy trousers! ;)
Great info. Much appreciated.
Well done thank you
I would really like to see the "How to fix pants" video covering all 21 issues that you alluded to. Please would you post a link if you have completed it.
best pants I've ever seen... Dior men's 1998 they seemed to bow out from the waist to the knee.
I hate pants, so hard to find quality pants for less. Custom is not in my budget at the moment. Make Kilts great again
That's why I dress like Donald Duck. :D
Try JM Haggar, Cool 18 Pro or their chinos. Their synthetic fabrics can literally last 10 years and their sales are amazing.
If you want custom, check out Indochino. Look for a sale and get some custom clothes.
u really are teamflash(er)
Great video as always
Clear and useful, thanks
I bought a Hickey Freeman suit at a high-end department store, and had to have it tailored again 6 months later. The pants were lengthened an inch.
Nice video, really helps me a lot:) May I ask what fabric weight you prefer to make the pants drape elegantly? Is 12oz enough?
In my recent experiences it has become exceedingly more difficult (and more annoying) to find slacks that sit high among the waist, especially since I have lost an amount of weight around my waist due to exercising. I wear a 30" and to correspond with Sven about racks, I always run into off the racks from 32" down always seem to be low rise.
I have went to tailors but sometimes they ask me why I should want a higher rise when low rise is currently "popular". I always tell them I think it looks silly on me.
everything is low cut. sigh.
everything is low cut. sigh.
Because high rise makes the legs look longer, they divide the torso more evenly and the reason low rise is popular currently is due to large stomachs more than fashion trends. Tell them that next time they ask. 😂
love your channel
Thank you!
Pants, watching this channel so often I'd like to share a few alteration tips that I have encountered over the years. When adding cuffs, a wider leg pant benifits from them over tapered pants because the tesion/weight created by cuffs at the hem create a nice drape/movement to wider pant legs. Controversially, by tapering a pair of pants at your tailor you will evoke a more streamlined silhouette which looks best without adding pant cuffs. In regards to someone starting out, tan wool pants would be my first recommendation for them. Tan wool slacks match both black or brown shoes and any colored sportcoat, but not a tan/beige/taupe colored sportcoat which would clash because they would be of two different tan hues. Flat front pants create the slimmer late 50s-early 60s look, pleated pants will give you more frontal room in your pockets. In the continental (mad men) era, some of flat front pants had Jean cut pockets so when you'd sit in a car or on a couch, your keys and wallet didn't fall out of out your pockets. Wish Hart Schafner Marx would bring that back in their flat front pockets. Pleated pants however, create less pocket content bulging, the additional frontal fabric also advertise less under the zipper 'bulge-bulge Thank you
Very Informative as always. Please make a video on your tailor taking your measurements. Tips on how you can make sure measurements are done perfect. Thank you.
Problem is, each tailor or MTM providers ask to take measurement s differently, and usually they provide you exactly with what they want.
In this video, turnups is misspelled. Enjoyed the video!
@5:27 scared me. Great video! So easy to listen to
Great video as always Raphael! Just wanted to point out you made a typo in the video. "tunrups*
I am not even a man nor am I in a relationship with one but I do love your videos
Brand recommendations for 6’ 3, 280 lb guy? It’s heard to find clothes that fit me comfortable my and correctly. Keep up your great content!
I know this is a 2 year old comment, but did you ever discover a great brand for pants? I need roomy pants with a high rise. I'm mostly torso, so I need that extra length the rise provides.
@@Frygonz Check Out collaro.co- they will make pants like you want them to be- its more bespoke then MTM
Hope that helps
is there any vídeo on this channel about braces and pants specific for them? I've become a avid consumer of your content and your channel revolutionized the way I dress, but I was unable to find something on this subject.
I'm loving these videos. I have two questions. 1. Do you measure you inseam from where your legs connect to torso or from the bottom of any...external anatomy? Second question; Who is your tailor in Minnesota?
Please can you do a video like this but for jackets and shirts??
As shown at 11:59 I made such a slant angle bottom for my N.C.C pants.
Can you recommend a couple of websites that sell this kind of trousers to an affordable price?
Hello, I love your detailed and professional video presentations. I have a question about the dark blue fishtail pants, can you tell me where I could find sewing patterns as these? I would appreciate it very much
If you're still looking for the pattern just look up a website called "Reconstructing History." They have the oxford bag pants pattern (which was mentioned in this video). It's quite expensive for papers, but they printed out real good. I think they sell it digital for have price. Got me one and have yet to go to the tailor to see what they can make out of it.
I prefer real pictures of poorly fitting trousers to those drawings. Thanks. Also, it would be nice if you did a video in which you go out and buy trousers, showing the complete process.
Honestly, it depends. Sometimes i want a high, loose pants, while some other times i want a slimmer pair. It depends on what the level of formality or the vibe of the outfit is.
PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON PANTS WITHOUT BELTLOOPS FOR SUPSENDERS AND WHERE TO BUY THEM ITS VERY DIFFICULT FINDING PANTS LIKE THESE ESPECIALLY ALREADY MADE READY TO WEAR.
Any recommendations for online store for pleated high waistband cuffed pants?
Thank you for all these amazing videos :) My biggest issue is that when I sit down while wearing dress pants, it really hurts my groin region! I'm not sure what to do :(
Chum its fashion that was the problem, the skinny fit, the last 20 years particularly have been appalling. We have been experimented on, the skinny fit was as ridiculous as 1970s shirt collars. Retailers pray upon peoples casual interest in fashion and middle managers etc just buy what seams right without thinking, evidenced by their terrible standards and look (particularly the last 20-30 years). This is from a western European perspective. Trousers have to be exactly like Sven is suggesting in the video, high waist , held by suspenders, extremely comfortable !.
Are the pants tight??
What do you thing about cuffs on flat front trousers?
Great advice. Thanks,
Sven where did you have the trousers on this video made? I want to get some made to order or bespoke trousers whats the best option if im in the USA?
10:54 Maybe it's just me but actually seeing these Xs while the person is flexing the leg and having the fabric being compressed on from of the upper leg is the sign that the fit. It's exactly the effect I am looking for. A tight slim fit but still ample enough while standing walking etc... I love slim-fit pants and I abhor baggy pants in suits... (like that famous picture of the Asian man with a baggy suit and a suit that fits him).
Where did you get those first trousers ? I've been looking for high rise trousers and those look perfect sir .
He got 'em custom made at a bespoke tailor. Go get yourself some wool and silk fabric to have your tailor make you a suit.
Take a look at Anton Meyer maybe.
(If you Life in the EU)
What is the front hip pocket used for on the pants @ 6:25 please?
I bought Advantage suits three buttons.. the jacket matches the pants it looks bad it was belonged to a tall man and I'm 5-8 should I get it alter or forget about it? thank you so much
I have a question. Usually when I am getting trousers, I would get them 1 size bigger than what fits me. I wanted to know whether this is something normal and whether I should continue doing it
Edward Sexton now sells RTW Hollywood top trousers (no waistband) for around $400-500
It always looks bad when big guys with beer guts wear their pants below the belly button and allow that same gut to hang out when doing those tuck ins. That's why it's always safe to wear them around the belly button when tucking in shirts. However, most skinny guys never encounter that problem and can wear them below the belly button. But I always believe that dress pants should always be worn around the belly button no matter what the size or age of the guy.
With where to wear them I wear them just under my stomach. I’m pretty chubby and have somewhat of a gut. Wearing anything over my stomach feels so odd. I wear it at my hips. But that’s how I’ve always worn my pants and it is most comfortable for me
Questions what is a specific name for those really nice pants ?
Hey I'm confused between an Italian suit and an English suit!! Any suggestions?
Would you say pants can be more a matter of choice than a jacket? For example, im a young fit man and I like to have my trousers slim with no break. I think it looks really good
Nowadays fashion standards are very low. You can wear whatever you want, but it don't mean you look good.
The piece of fabric on the front with the button attached...what's that for? Just design? Or is there some functionality to it?
Hi, I just bought a pair of navy dress pants. They do not have pleats. When I have them shortened would I have cuffs or no cuffs? Thank you.
At 1:02 what’s the button down pocket on the front called also what is the function, thanks
What is the name of the fabric used in trousers in introduction section
I think i played too much rdr2
Lol I love dressing and growing hair in that game
I have neuropathy and when i wear pants at my natural waist i get horrible stabbing pains, but they look terible around my hips, would suspenders be a good option for me? i dont wear a belt at all, because even the tension around my hips causes some pain. I was thinking suspenders and a looser pants might give me a better look while not pressing against my sides. Im trying so hard to wear nicer clothes but i dont want to dress like i am 80 due to chronic illness (im 40). My shoes are already that of a great grandpa
Where can I find the video about ‘how to fix pants’?
Sven's style is similar to mine. I prefer relaxed fit pants that sit higher at the waist like on the belly button. Last week I wore suspenders with a loose-fit pair of khakis and it was the most comfortable I have ever been. I wish they made more loose pants, no disrespect to anyone who prefers slim fit pants, it just forces designers to make pants slimmer.
I feel way more comfortable wearing slim pants because they make my legs look slimmer (Not to be confused with skin tight, slim pants still give you enough space for movement).
@@thienphucn1 If you're skinny-legged they feel comfortable. If you got hulk thighs and calves they don't feel so comfy.
I love the tux loafers ! , Where i can find them ?
@G G thnx
I have a pair of those dress shoes just brown
Excuse be uhm, mind if I ask, what is the tiny pocket for? Is it for a pocket watch?
I seem unable to find trousers or chinos with turn ups. The odd pair with a small cuff sometimes, but never the styles we see in these videos. I'm also a 38/40W and 35L, so never easy to find a size. Any ideas from anyone?
Can I use a clip suspenders whit a jacket on?
I just want to know whose job it was to slowly push Raphael back and forth on a skateboard.
QUESTION: Does pant rise affect how low the leg of a pant sits? For example, if one increases the body rise from 29 inches to 31 inches and the inseam remains the same, will the pant naturally sit lower at the ankle because of the increase in rise?
The lowest part of the rise should sit in the right (and same) place underneath you, regardless of its length. A shorter one would then sit on your hips and a longer rise go up to your waist, so no reason for either to affect the inseam length which stays the same...
Here I an trying to make oxford bags
This is helpful but how do you fit your things in your pockets? I mean without having a big buldge on the sides or without having to wear too loose of jeans. How do people do it? They don't carry their wallets, phones, coins, cards etc?
How about a man bag? There are plenty of good ones about nowadays, and it saves ruining the line of your trousers...
Thank you for sharing this great video,
Why didn't you include, wearing the right underwear?
Expensive tailored pants often look cheap when you wear cheap unflattering underwear.
I have some trousers that are pirfect on me however when i sit there is a lot of excess fabric in the crotch area and it bellies out and just looks awful and creases
I am again sitting there blown off by the level of your knowledge! the information will take time to be ingested properly.
on the flipside, i'm thinking... if people (from west europe) fly to ast europe for dental treatments, why not also to have stuff tailor-made, if they are also for example going like tourists? i once had a pair of bespoke pants, and the material and hands cost me around 70 euros... which i believe is very affordable to be made by an expert. just putting it out there.
That's what I'm going to do. My fiancee is Turkish, and here a bespoke 3 piece suit is $300 (including local fabrics, foreign fabrics cost about 1k more). Shirts here are about 1/3 the price of in the US. etc etc. The trick is settling for what is available locally... and bringing an extra suitcase to fill
Where should the pants fit? at navel height or below or above?
Is there any historical precident for an angled hem?
how could an "oxford bag" be so smooth if too much fabric in de width should lead to wrinkles?
I wear suspenders but some suspenders make the pants ride up the back and I get a wedgie. Do you know if it's the suspender's problem? or my body shape problem?
Suspender perhaps? Maybe you have it a little too buckled up, if that makes sense.
kinda always thought the britches like Fred on the Lucy show and other oldies like the 3 stooges wore with braces would be good work pants
what does it mean if I have breaking behind the leg above my calfs (back of knee)
Your pants aren't fitting properly? Or the fabric is lightweight.
Gentleman's Gazette: Could you make a video on ZOOT suits ? That would be awesome and talk a little of the history of it. Don't forget the infamous Zoot Suit riot on L.A. back on 1943.
why would he make a video on an abomination?
may be for you.
Bender Bending Rodriguez , no, quite literally. It's a complete contradiction of what a suit is supposed to do for you. They are the deffinition of unnecessary and were designed to be disrespectful. I cringe whenever someone wears one.
may be for you because you want people to forget about the Zoot Suit Riot.
Is he moving or the camera... or is it just me going crazy.
i dont think so, i see it too
camera is shaking a little bit, you are not crazy
It's the CZcams automatic stabilization.