Valvoline Restore & Protect Review: Rear Main Seal Removal & Crank Shaft, Oil Pan Inspection
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- čas přidán 20. 06. 2024
- Links Below: Update using Valvoline Restore & Protect Engine Oil to reduce oil consumption & piston slap. Inspecting the crankcase & crankshaft during removal of the rear main seal, 10th Gen F150 5.4 2V Engine.
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Thank for the update
👍🏻
Nice view of the internals
👍🏻
In middle of refreshing ( defacto rebuild actually ) my saab turbo engine ~120,000miles.
Hobby car more than anything, as to the Why .
The ENTIRE innards of my engine is heavily carbonned, like your illustrated area.
I have owned this car for 20+ years and have Religiously changed oil/filters at 3,000miles . A dog's breakfast of oil types, mostly semi synths, but always of National brands.
The lifters were siezed with carbon deposits in their check valves. Piston tops were barely carbonned .. but the Piston ring lands were So carbon packed I had to chisel out the hard as a rock carbon. All oil rings were cemented in place. Pistons once cleaned, are Pristine, No marks /scuffs anywhere. Bores are mercifully unmarked
Sump had a heavy layer of carbon grains.. Black aquarium sand as visual reference.
The oil pickup /strainer was half clogged with carbon lumps. Oil pump is virtually as new No scorings or wear.. surprisingly.
Cam sprockets (dohc) were totally black, as was the entire chains area. .
ALL of this was a complete surprise, as the engine ran without fault.. Never using oil, or smoking, or making any noises it shouldn't..
Only plausible apparent reason was that the engine ran Hot .. hot enough to bake, then carbonise any and all oils that were splashed about.
Starting to believe that My engine brand /type is V poor at heat disipation .. causing any and all oils splashed about to be cooked by the too hot engine surfaces.
As most available images of my engine brand feature suspiciously similar black innards.
thanks for this comment. I'd love to see photos if you don't mind sending to facebook.com/drivingintelligence - here are my thoughts: first, I would only use fully synthetic oils in a turbo engine because of the heat you mention. Conventional oils don't hold up to high heat. Second, how many total miles and are you the original owner? Similar to me, I don't know the maintenance history of my truck during it's first 165k miles. I know the transmission had never been serviced. Options: run a cooler thermostat for the cooling system and install an oil cooler. Please stay in touch.
@@DrivingIntelligence As above; 120k miles... I bought the car (Saab )with 40K miles. Engine was initially designed in '84. Unlikely with Any Synth requirement Or consideration. Zero heat damages issues in the turbo, having disassembled it for a reseal and rebearing. Neither of which it actually revealed itself to need. Engine is was on a 160 D stat, My choice since the outset of my tenure. Yess synths with their 20 d higher temp capability may have made a difference. Lot of Carboned oil for a 20 d difference though.
@@barenekid9695 really very interesting... as I noted on Facebook, my brief research showed these cars have a PCV upgrade? Know anything about that?
Carbon is probably from years of the small amount of exhaust gases that got past the rings floating around and deposited itself there and never gets washed by the oil like the rest of the engine internals.
Thanks for that input. Have you seen this kind of carbon buildup before?
@@DrivingIntelligence To tell you the truth i never paid attention.
I've seen it. It's common in that area.
@@Hephaestusthejeep thanks for that input
That’s just carbon off gassing from humidity getting into the oil and burning off when it gets hot
After a 1,000 miles after using V/R&P 5w-30w on my 224,000mile 2001 chey silverado v8 I have noticed a difference. No longer clicking from the motor and a little more power. Going to change oil in another 1,000 and refill with Valvoline Restore & Protect Engine Oil for the nex-3 oil changes. I sold on it.
great comment, thank you
I'd like to know the results
I put V/R&P in a ‘12 Prius ~600 miles ago. I immediately noticed a quieter engine. Have seen lots of same comments about it. It doesn’t have any oil consumption issues but I’d like to keep it that way. I can’t wait to see how rigs with massive oil consumption issues respond a year out from now.
@@user-rv4ob4tg9x Thats great, I'll be changing my Oil here in the next month w/2000 miles on it /when I will go 5,000 miles per oil changes. Very happy with this product . Was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil but was still getting lifter clicking sound at start up, but it Gone now. Glad i found this stuff, vs doing a harsh chem-engine flush on it. Might just get another 200,000 miles on.
Also I was too using Marvel Mystery Oil w/Pennsoil, but it did seen to help at all.
Looks fine. No sludge. Some varnish is normal.
BTW, it took 6 to 8 oil changes with Delo 400 HDEO to get rid of the piston slap in my Subaru. Went back to regular oil and slap has not returned.
Thanks for that comment, very helpful. And if Valvoline doesn't work, I'll try the DELO.
Using valvoline restore and protect gave me a nasty knock noise I think is piston slap.
@@TonicofSonic I believe what you're writing here, but I struggle to see how an oil can cause sudden engine noise unless you had a severely gunked up engine and the R&P loosened up the gunk causing problems.
@@DrivingIntelligence Me too. The engine was noisy with valvoline R and P oil too. Switched to walmart advanced high mileage oil and it got quieter. So did the noise.
I am under the impression this is subpar quality oil, that also may have loosened something that was not meant to be loosened.
FordBossMe used this oil, he had a vct failure on his low mileage F150(same as mine) within the first 4k miles running valvoline R and P.
So 2 for 2 on 5.0 coyotes causing an issue so far with what information I have available.
Great info. Are you using the Ford recommended viscosity?
Hmmm, surprised to see that carbon. At least it’s not sludge
True
What oil change interval are you using? Hoping that R&P is some sort of magic bullet for chuggers.
I'm going to change at no more than 4k miles.
It could be R&P but my gut feeling is telling me the oil gets more flows where it is clean, maybe the flow of oil prevents build up there where as the parts above and further to the side get less resulting in some carbon.
I know when removing a valve cover it's not uncommon to see light build up or even varnish on the sides of the motor which receive less oil flow. Even valve covers don't get a ton of oil on them and they have build up.
So going on 100% gut feeling I wanna say oil flow is the cause of less build up, it could be R&P but if so why is it only the areas which get oil flow which remain clean/cleaner.
I've only been running the R&P for about 3k miles. So I'm sure the build-up is not from R&P. I think you're correct about the oil streaming down from the crank and cleaning the crank caps. When I changed my timing chains before using R&P, my heads and valve train were spotless. No build-up at all.
People in the comments got me nervous about using this product in my 2020 Hyundai Ioniq hybrid. Its got 220k miles on it and I kept going 10-12k miles between oil changes
I might be a little nervous as well. I've learned over the years that even stretching to 7,500 miles between oil changes is too much. Especially if you only do short trips around the city. Engine does not have enough time to get up to full operating temperature. How's your vehicle running? Oil consumption?
@@DrivingIntelligence keep in mind it’s a hybrid. So not all of those miles were driven on gas. A quarter of them were in electric mode. And most of those miles are highway. I do live in the city and do a lot of stop and go traffic with the hybrid but I didn’t do 200k city miles. Most miles are from road trips like driving from Seattle to Florida ( 150 bucks in Gas total for that trip).
@@DrivingIntelligence and it’s burning maybe half a quart of oil per 2000-3000k miles. That was with 0w-20 oil. I switched to 5w-30 for the summer and I’m
Watching how it behaves differently
Does the oil actually clean the piston rings so the motor doesn’t burn oil anymore?
My objective is to see if that’s what it does. So far so good.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you for following up on the restore and protect oil! Not much information is out there if it really was its own purpose apart from whats said from its ad’s
@erickl9578 very welcome!
@@erickl9578fwiw I’ve read two separate accounts of engines stopping burning oil with R&P, one on Reddit and one on a car forum 🤷 just make sure to reduce interval a bit on the first time as filter may clog a bit faster than normal. Every report on this oil I’ve seen so far is positive…. In an extemely skeptical world. It costs the same as other oil so why not
Is anyone experiencing rear main seal leaks in older engines from using restore and protect, possible due to carbon clean up from the seal itself?
interesting question. I don't have an answer, but I can tell you the rear main seal on this truck, after 260k miles, was rather loose. I'm surprised it was not leaking.
I have the a similar question. How does R&P affect rubber seals in the engine? Would need to to a side by side test and cook some rubber seals in R&P vs. normal oil to see what happens... if R&P can break down carbon, what is it doing to the rubber? ... sounds like a job for Project Farm!
@@Nicedesk that would be a good test. So far I have no problems with seals or leakage. I'm sure Valvoline did a long term test with their oil since they have an engine test shop on their properly.
@@Nicedeskmuch like Valvoline Maxlife protection oil for higher mileage engines they have additives that are supposed to expand and coat seals with a protectant so they can work efficiently again. I believe they used some of the same Maxlife technology within the R&P and they should harbor the same effects and benefits if not more.
Are you asking in general or did you experience this yourself?
Extended oil change intervals cause varnish buildup.
Why not directly under the crank, and this truck does not have extended oil changes.
@@DrivingIntelligence the area under the crank gets a fair amount of oil coming from the bearing keeping it clean. The area above it doesn’t get much oil at all, just crankcase vapors causing the slight buildup. The extended oil changes comment was meant in general, not point to it as the cause here.
Ok, thanks for clarification and confirming my thoughts.
Pcv or vacuum issue
possible, but no
Did a career in engine shops, this is pure lack of oil changes, partly higher engine temps, they attract the contaminants that saturated oil are carrying.
Change at 1/2 recommended intervals.
I've bought oil in 5 gallon buckets when on sale with rebates, change it often, my hard working 04 Duramax just turned 400K Miles, still haven't pulled a black drain, never needed to add, on some hard 5k intervals, it's been down a tad, so it shows that it's been doing its job, soaking up the contamination.
But never diesel black. Yes I've done a front seal, water pump, swapped out injectors, I should go see how many gallons of fuel, how many hrs on engine, the DTC has that all logged.
It's only ever had, Delo, Rottella, Valvoline Cummins Blue, only the best. Whatever the deals were on
If you read some of my other commenters, who are also engine builders, they noted this is normal in areas where no oil gets to internal parts of the engine. Your comment doesn't quite make sense since I have clean crank caps where oil flows down and cleans those components. But I appreciate your input.
@@DrivingIntelligence I've not seen that, tank many a stripped engine, both neglected, and maintained, just did a D8 Cat engine ( assisted , taught) with over 35K hrs, no major damage,but hours, and no buildup, but done lots diesels with poor maintance,seen dirty oil , sludge,piston lands, and on bottom of piston crowns seen carbon, but it was about lack of oil changing.
Did marine gas engines, there is was more about poor cooling, or too cool, they usually don't get the dusting, oil is like our blood, if it's not healthy, the our diets contribute, we too fail prematurely.
@@johac7637 what do you consider lack of oil changes? What frequency? I've been changing my oil from 5-7k miles, but now I'm moving to 4k miles between changes. When I changed my timing chains the heads and valve train were perfect. No build-up at all. Looked brand new.
@@DrivingIntelligence I think you saw the results of changing your oil, look in your operators manual, you're probably going to notice you are over changing, or you dealer would tell you that.
I change more often in her weather, dusty operating conditions, heavy pulling, hilly travels.
The new mantra is, cost per mile of operation on advertising, this the long change intervals, it's not rewarding million mile owners, cars, ask the fleet owners, they change oils, antifreezes, do their strip tests on antifreezes, they then know the freight rolls, it's not in shops, parked broken.
I told a fellow to change his oil in a Mercedes truck engine " I just drive in the city, deliver to loading docks, truck doesn't work,", that when to change more often, " it's a new engine, 50k miles, I add a bit of oil between changes" " your adding because your oil additives are spent, change your oil", now after loosing a $100 bet , " I'll bet you $100 , your oil will stay at the full for 10K Miles if you change it at 10K Miles, " John, I never need to add oil now, I changed, and it quit using oil, now I changed every 10-12 K like you said, winter i did it at 10, summer will be between 10-12, oil isn't crazy black now either.
That's on a semi, holds 15 gallons, I think you get my reasoning
Oil is cheap, rebuilds cost.
Why on earth would you expect to see a change in "piston slap" as its clearly a bore clearance issue, do you expect the oil to leave some sort of clearance reducing coatong on skirts ???
What I like to do is see if a question has been asked and answered before I post a question, like you. Your comment has been posted and answered. Next time do a simple google search, in this case “possible causes of piston slap” and maybe you’ll get your answer instead of being a repetitive commenter. Sheesh.
The valvoline caused that carbon build up
Penzoil caused the carbon build up.
If that’s true, why isn’t there carbon buildup everywhere?
No it didn’t
No
That's not true. That was a myth back in the 90s.
🤣🤣 youre such a troll bro!! Lmfao!