I don't usually get a good reviews I hear a lot of word salad and people with no knowledge this is exactly where I put pressure to on The hip Hop system keep up the good work
GREAT Video, 4 years later and I'm seeing this video, I too have a 07 F-350 DRW FX4 I know a lot of people hate this engine, but I guess I have to knock on wood, as I have not had any issues with mine with 150,000 miles. I did volunterily replace the injectors at 150,000.
Never worked a diesel till this month. Having now a no start on hot. Don't have the pressure tester but figured how easy it is to replace them might as well since it's a 05 and I'm sure it never been replaced. Great video. Once you dig into these engines you find they're really not hard to work on.
Finally see how this is done im educating my self so I can work on my own truck have a 04 ford f250 love the truck keeping up with preventive maintenance have had some problems but never left me on the side of the road
Thank you!! I’m waiting for my pressure adapter to arrive tomorrow. That is a great video… hoping to get it diagnosed tomorrow. I live in Arizona and my mom is in the hospital and I need to drive to Minnesota and I have a hot no start so I’ve got the new standpipes and dummy plugs but instead of doing both to save me time I’m going to repair only the part that is needed so I can get on the road. When I get back, I’ll do the opposite side. I’m hoping it’s not the passenger side but thank you so much for this info!
Great video Chad. It's a good morning when I'm catching up on videos and ome directly pertains to a job for the day. As you said these engines are actually pretty easy once you understand the system. Keep up the great work.
Ben looking for info on this same job and I have watched a lot but your video was the first to really explain. The procedure,, so thanks a lot have a blessed day
Just to verify I loosened the motor mount frame nuts did not remove them on the passenger side and was able to jack up that side of the motor with a port a power to gain more clearance. Worked great able to access valve cover bolts easier on the passenger side also was able to remove and install new stand pipe with ease.
I used to be very intimidated by the 6.0 and 7.3 but once you understand the basic operation they aren’t too bad. I have limit experience with the 6.4 and 6.7 so those are still foreign to me. Thanks for watching.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I enjoy your video's. My experience on the 6.4 and 6.7 is limited as well. I have attended classes on the 7.3 and 6.0. Also watched videos on CZcams.
No sale. I tried two different scanners and couldn't connect to the DLC (no power). It was a low mileage truck but it's been through some rough miles. Pretty beat up. Thanks again for all your help!
Just finished dealing with a crank no start situation with my 2006 with the 6.0. Guys and gals please start with the relays under the hood before you check anything else. The injection relay can overheat and cause othwr parts to go out.
What was the torque on that tube and I was told don’t take it over 100 psi when your pressuring up your block but great excellent information. I will definitely be using your tips. Thank you again for your time.👍👍
I really need some advice fast!! I have a 2005 F350 6.0 and cranks with no start unless starter fluid is used but will run only a few seconds then when I press the throttle it will die… Oil level on dip stick is good. Removed the oil filter to see if the filter compartment filled up with oil when cranking and it did. Tested the IPR and ICP. Both good. Then ran air pressure test through the ICP and no leaks. If the compartment is filling with oil I’m assuming that the relief valve on the lower pump is not causing it. The only thing left would be the HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP….. What do you think???
A scan tool that can read data would be the next step. If high pressure oil is building on the scan tool then the problem is somewhere else. Low fuel pressure, bad fuel, bad ficm or ficm relay.
Folks are always so scared of the passenger side. I'd have sealed the entire high pressure system. All your doing is putting a band- aid on it if you go cheap.
Was wondering what else it can be I have crank no start replace the standpipe and fuel pump and icp ipr also and crank sensor but if I step on throttle half way it will start most of the time
Great video Chad! What size bolt do you use for the lower stand assembly removal trick? I am a DYI guy and have worked on cars my whole life and I just went through this on my son's 6.0 after getting hot start issues (changed dummy plugs, stand pipes and IPR valve just to be certain). But, I couldn't get the passenger side lower stand assembly out as it was stuck. Your video is a life saver especially with that stand pipe trick.
@@ThePracticalMechanicThank you so much for the quick reply! Send me an email, if you're comfortable with that, and I will gladly mail you a couple once I find the perfect length size in a 10mm or 3/8". You just saved me from pulling the rail and maybe causing seal issues on the nipples or injectors. Thanks again!
Passenger side#1 injector blowing air @85 psi on ipr port test plug with valve and air hose. No start also. Question what psi shall I air up to at minimum. Thank you in advance.J
Awesome information on diagnosis of that oil leak ...I have a senero with my 6.0 it has lots of hpop pressure but the ipr is showing 75pct it won't run but it tries to all other readings are within spec any ideas would be much appreciated...keep up the good work..ps would like to see more videos on the 6.0 thks again ..
I would check ficm voltage. There will be three ficm voltage data pids to look at, two of them should be near 12volts and the other should be around 48 but anything over 45 volts and it should start. If the FICM voltage is good you may want to take the fuel filter lid off and see if you have any fuel in the housing. It won’t be completely full since the filter displaces much of the fuel. Depending on what scan tool your using I would try a buzz test. This will perform an electrical test on the injectors and you can listen to the injector actuation. It will firing all of them in quick succession and then fire them one at a time 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 if you are lacking a click from specific Injectors I would check the harness for the FICM. The clips break and the connector will rattle loose.
My problem is no crank at all. I can still jump it using the bypass under hood trick. Lately even that won't make it start, it will just start up several hours later. I have a programmer and it's not showing any codes. Dealer can't find anything wrong
I realize this is an old post but her goes. Got myself into a $h1tfest, Been trying to pull the passenger side stand pipe but it hits on the A/C box would it help if I jack up that side of the motor using a port a power so I can get more clearance to remove stand pipe?
Yes it would. I have seen guys heat up the box slightly with a heat gun and gain a little extra room. If the Motor mounts have sagged then the lower pipe is even harder to remove.
2007 f550 6.0 It took a few hours to start and then stopped and all of the sensors. New battery. Alternator I changed it to a new one. But it cranks, but it doesn't start.
The lower portion of the standpipe does not have internal threads. It is a smooth surface but you can get a 10mmx1.25 bolt to slide in tight enough to grab on. I hope this is what you were referring to.
I have a 2005 6.0 when I parked it last night then turned it on again it had a lot of trouble firing it up then I left it over night then the morning came in wouldn’t turn on at all I thought my battery was dead so I bought 2 new ones put em in then it still wouldn’t start and turns over but wouldn’t start any advice?
There are several things that can cause a 6.0 to not start. Check the oil level first because if they get low on oil they won’t start. Most other checks are going to require a scantool or special tools. If a scan tool is available watch the Injection control pressure (ICP) data. They require around 500psi in order to start. If the vehicle will not build high pressure oil it won’t be able to fire the injectors. Another scantool test is watching the FICM voltage. You need battery voltage going into the FICM and more than 45 volt going out. Hope that helps.
I don't blame Ford for stupid individuals messing with this product Dog knows it has enough problems of its own with out help from others making it look worse than it is. Ran into several problems with a 2006 Ford 6.0 diesel What started with a possible bad EGR cooler (found out it had been replaced with a bulletproof one) still need to pressure test to see if it leaks internally, just figured out that previous individual that owned it replaced the oil filter with a standard element and filter cap is an aftermarket tall one. So the fun continues...
I have a 2004 f250 super duty 6.0 it does a no start but if i spray starter fluid in the breather box it will start turning over and start up but i do have to keep it cranking until it stays running and runs good until i shut it off. but sometimes it will start back up but has long crank then starts. i was told it is the high pressure oil pump. any help on this problem. thank you.
Shopstream connect. It’s a free software from Snapon to view your recorded data. You can import files from Snapon scan tools onto a pc and use Shop Stream Connect to view the data, select just the channels you want to view and zoom in and out.
I have the exact same air leak on passenger side I took out standpipe which was updated less then 4000 miles ago and I have same o ring just like urs did that fix no start u did not do follow up video u can watch my video I posted a few days ago showing it all
It hasn’t had a problem since I did the repairs. I do this job about once every three months and none have come back with repeat failure. What brand pipes did you install? I have only installed the factory Ford updates pipes. It’s possible that the O-ring got a small nick or tear while installing on that back corner. Once a small leak developed the high pressure oil destroys the rest of the O-ring. There is also a very small chance that the branch tube under the head is damaged causing the oring to not seal properly. You have to pull half the motor apart to fix that so hopefully that’s not the issue.
ThePracticalMechanic I think my leak is one or more of the injectors top seals I still have air after new stand pipe I also only buy oem motor craft still air coming out of passenger side so I am gonna do every seal on the 4 injectors and hope it fixes leak if it still leaks I’m lost mine is 2007
Sean B I have one sitting in my lot for the last two weeks that needs the injector nipples resealed. Hopefully I will get the authorization soon. I thought for sure it was going to be the standpipe but when I got the valve cover off the stand pipes were fine.
I still needed to replace the other side stand pipe and plug as a preventative measure. I didn't want to take the leak test equipment off until all repairs were completed because a final leak test is performed before the engine goes back together.
I don't usually get a good reviews I hear a lot of word salad and people with no knowledge this is exactly where I put pressure to on The hip Hop system keep up the good work
Glad it was helpful!
GREAT Video, 4 years later and I'm seeing this video, I too have a 07 F-350 DRW FX4 I know a lot of people hate this engine, but I guess I have to knock on wood, as I have not had any issues with mine with 150,000 miles. I did volunterily replace the injectors at 150,000.
This is by far the best video I have seen on this subject. Well done.
Never worked a diesel till this month. Having now a no start on hot. Don't have the pressure tester but figured how easy it is to replace them might as well since it's a 05 and I'm sure it never been replaced. Great video. Once you dig into these engines you find they're really not hard to work on.
Finally see how this is done im educating my self so I can work on my own truck have a 04 ford f250 love the truck keeping up with preventive maintenance have had some problems but never left me on the side of the road
Thank you!! I’m waiting for my pressure adapter to arrive tomorrow. That is a great video… hoping to get it diagnosed tomorrow. I live in Arizona and my mom is in the hospital and I need to drive to Minnesota and I have a hot no start so I’ve got the new standpipes and dummy plugs but instead of doing both to save me time I’m going to repair only the part that is needed so I can get on the road. When I get back, I’ll do the opposite side. I’m hoping it’s not the passenger side but thank you so much for this info!
Great video Chad. It's a good morning when I'm catching up on videos and ome directly pertains to a job for the day.
As you said these engines are actually pretty easy once you understand the system.
Keep up the great work.
No problem Chris. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Ben looking for info on this same job and I have watched a lot but your video was the first to really explain. The procedure,, so thanks a lot have a blessed day
Just to verify I loosened the motor mount frame nuts did not remove them on the passenger side and was able to jack up that side of the motor with a port a power to gain more clearance. Worked great able to access valve cover bolts easier on the passenger side also was able to remove and install new stand pipe with ease.
Thanks for the tip. I should probably just do that on every one of these jobs to make it easier.
Great work Chad! This is a good useful video for diagnosing oil leaks on the 6.0. Keep it up
Thanks Cody!!
Quick question how do you diagnose if the battery died from sitting a few months and no codes pop up on the scanner?
Man you are a great diagnostician.
Thank you for taking the time post this video...nice job..very informative.
I have made some good side money working on the 7.3 and 6.0. Just doing basic diagnostics are pretty simple once you know what to look for
I used to be very intimidated by the 6.0 and 7.3 but once you understand the basic operation they aren’t too bad. I have limit experience with the 6.4 and 6.7 so those are still foreign to me.
Thanks for watching.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I enjoy your video's. My experience on the 6.4 and 6.7 is limited as well. I have attended classes on the 7.3 and 6.0. Also watched videos on CZcams.
Good video fast diagnostic test and scan test.
I'm considering a 2007 Ford with this engine and just started some research and your video came up, awesome!
Let me know if you have any questions. You know how to contact me if needed. 2007 was the last year for the 6.0 and probably the most reliable.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I sure appreciate the offer. I'll let you know.
No sale. I tried two different scanners and couldn't connect to the DLC (no power). It was a low mileage truck but it's been through some rough miles. Pretty beat up. Thanks again for all your help!
@@wyattoneable no problem. The cigar fuse powers the DLC. Cellphone charger or penny probably popped the fuse.
Nice & clear to the point thank you Chad please please make more video’s on 6 liter. 🙏
Just finished dealing with a crank no start situation with my 2006 with the 6.0.
Guys and gals please start with the relays under the hood before you check anything else. The injection relay can overheat and cause othwr parts to go out.
What was the torque on that tube and I was told don’t take it over 100 psi when your pressuring up your block but great excellent information. I will definitely be using your tips. Thank you again for your time.👍👍
Great video! 👍 my diesel knowledge is very limited but this helps big time!
No problem Mario. Do you get many diesels in your shop?
ThePracticalMechanic no not many honestly
I can get the address
I
I I think think of of that you you know that that is a big deal that is a lot lot for the
Great video. Camera angels and everything. Keep up the great work.
Love the video ima go go check my truck now had it for a year and cant get it to turn on after i run it for a bit. 06 man🤦♂️
great vid thanks for the help
Great video! Thanks
Have a 2003 Ford F350 crank/no start. The FICM start at 46 but when cranking it drop down to 27. I'm assuming then the FICM is bad.
Big thumbs up and I subscribed
I really need some advice fast!! I have a 2005 F350 6.0 and cranks with no start unless starter fluid is used but will run only a few seconds then when I press the throttle it will die… Oil level on dip stick is good. Removed the oil filter to see if the filter compartment filled up with oil when cranking and it did. Tested the IPR and ICP. Both good. Then ran air pressure test through the ICP and no leaks. If the compartment is filling with oil I’m assuming that the relief valve on the lower pump is not causing it. The only thing left would be the HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP….. What do you think???
A scan tool that can read data would be the next step. If high pressure oil is building on the scan tool then the problem is somewhere else.
Low fuel pressure, bad fuel, bad ficm or ficm relay.
Folks are always so scared of the passenger side. I'd have sealed the entire high pressure system. All your doing is putting a band- aid on it if you go cheap.
hey this is great video thank for you time
No problem. Thanks for watching.
id love to be a diesel mechanic. my 6.0 is killing me, but its a love hate experience.
VERY nice video,blessing.
Was wondering what else it can be I have crank no start replace the standpipe and fuel pump and icp ipr also and crank sensor but if I step on throttle half way it will start most of the time
tanks man very good explain I cool.........
Great video Chad! What size bolt do you use for the lower stand assembly removal trick? I am a DYI guy and have worked on cars my whole life and I just went through this on my son's 6.0 after getting hot start issues (changed dummy plugs, stand pipes and IPR valve just to be certain). But, I couldn't get the passenger side lower stand assembly out as it was stuck. Your video is a life saver especially with that stand pipe trick.
I think it was a 3/8” bolt but it may have been a 10mm. I loaned it to another tech and never got it back so I need to find another one.
@@ThePracticalMechanicThank you so much for the quick reply! Send me an email, if you're comfortable with that, and I will gladly mail you a couple once I find the perfect length size in a 10mm or 3/8". You just saved me from pulling the rail and maybe causing seal issues on the nipples or injectors. Thanks again!
Passenger side#1 injector blowing air @85 psi on ipr port test plug with valve and air hose. No start also. Question what psi shall I air up to at minimum. Thank you in advance.J
Great video! Is there a part number for that Stan pipe? Where did you get it
Awesome information on diagnosis of that oil leak ...I have a senero with my 6.0 it has lots of hpop pressure but the ipr is showing 75pct it won't run but it tries to all other readings are within spec any ideas would be much appreciated...keep up the good work..ps would like to see more videos on the 6.0 thks again ..
I would check ficm voltage. There will be three ficm voltage data pids to look at, two of them should be near 12volts and the other should be around 48 but anything over 45 volts and it should start.
If the FICM voltage is good you may want to take the fuel filter lid off and see if you have any fuel in the housing. It won’t be completely full since the filter displaces much of the fuel.
Depending on what scan tool your using I would try a buzz test. This will perform an electrical test on the injectors and you can listen to the injector actuation. It will firing all of them in quick succession and then fire them one at a time 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 if you are lacking a click from specific Injectors I would check the harness for the FICM. The clips break and the connector will rattle loose.
My problem is no crank at all. I can still jump it using the bypass under hood trick. Lately even that won't make it start, it will just start up several hours later. I have a programmer and it's not showing any codes. Dealer can't find anything wrong
Great content 👌
What size bolt you used to pull out the other half of the stand pipe
I realize this is an old post but her goes. Got myself into a $h1tfest, Been trying to pull the passenger side stand pipe but it hits on the A/C box would it help if I jack up that side of the motor using a port a power so I can get more clearance to remove stand pipe?
Yes it would. I have seen guys heat up the box slightly with a heat gun and gain a little extra room. If the Motor mounts have sagged then the lower pipe is even harder to remove.
Why does the lower oring on the driver side stand pipe keep blowing apart on my 6.0 3 stand pipes in 4 months what am I doing wrong
Are you using updated part? With the white back up piston ring kinda washers on it?
Great info thank you.
Great job.
Whats thd torque for the high oil press rail bolts snd for these standpipes ??
Great work
great work
2007 f550 6.0 It took a few hours to start and then stopped and all of the sensors. New battery. Alternator I changed it to a new one. But it cranks, but it doesn't start.
You changed the ipr valve?if you did change it,may be an oil pressure problem and if not that may be the pcm
So what if I still hear a leak from that side after installing new dummy plugs and stand pipe work in my leak be coming from
Great video master, does the standpipe has internal tread that enable it to come out when you insert the bolt, what is the bolt size?
The lower portion of the standpipe does not have internal threads. It is a smooth surface but you can get a 10mmx1.25 bolt to slide in tight enough to grab on.
I hope this is what you were referring to.
Thanks good work
cool video thank you
My truck keeps having these oring failures
What would cause this to keep happening???
I have a 2005 6.0 when I parked it last night then turned it on again it had a lot of trouble firing it up then I left it over night then the morning came in wouldn’t turn on at all I thought my battery was dead so I bought 2 new ones put em in then it still wouldn’t start and turns over but wouldn’t start any advice?
There are several things that can cause a 6.0 to not start. Check the oil level first because if they get low on oil they won’t start. Most other checks are going to require a scantool or special tools. If a scan tool is available watch the Injection control pressure (ICP) data. They require around 500psi in order to start. If the vehicle will not build high pressure oil it won’t be able to fire the injectors. Another scantool test is watching the FICM voltage. You need battery voltage going into the FICM and more than 45 volt going out. Hope that helps.
ThePracticalMechanic thx sm it was a ring under the valve cover that leaks pressure
@@ThePracticalMechanic Hi , Which reasonable costing scantool is best to Injection control pressure on a 2004 E450 6.0L
I don't blame Ford for stupid individuals messing with this product Dog knows it has enough problems of its own with out help from others making it look worse than it is.
Ran into several problems with a 2006 Ford 6.0 diesel What started with a possible bad EGR cooler (found out it had been replaced with a bulletproof one) still need to pressure test to see if it leaks internally, just figured out that previous individual that owned it replaced the oil filter with a standard element and filter cap is an aftermarket tall one. So the fun continues...
whats the torque spec and where can i get a bolt and whats the thread of long bolt
What causes the O ring to blow out
My problem is the canrk sensor where is it located?
I have a 2004 f250 super duty 6.0 it does a no start but if i spray starter fluid in the breather box it will start turning over and start up but i do have to keep it cranking until it stays running and runs good until i shut it off. but sometimes it will start back up but has long crank then starts. i was told it is the high pressure oil pump. any help on this problem. thank you.
Hi John , I been having the exact problem , did you figure out what it was ?
Same here
I already replaced IPR , ICP , dummy plugs and stand pipes , high pressure oil pump , and still does the same
What program are you using?
Shopstream connect. It’s a free software from Snapon to view your recorded data. You can import files from Snapon scan tools onto a pc and use Shop Stream Connect to view the data, select just the channels you want to view and zoom in and out.
What scan tool do you use?
What size bolt do you use to pull the bottom of the standpipe
10mmx1.25 bout 3" long
What size bolt?
I have the exact same air leak on passenger side I took out standpipe which was updated less then 4000 miles ago and I have same o ring just like urs did that fix no start u did not do follow up video u can watch my video I posted a few days ago showing it all
It hasn’t had a problem since I did the repairs. I do this job about once every three months and none have come back with repeat failure. What brand pipes did you install? I have only installed the factory Ford updates pipes.
It’s possible that the O-ring got a small nick or tear while installing on that back corner. Once a small leak developed the high pressure oil destroys the rest of the O-ring. There is also a very small chance that the branch tube under the head is damaged causing the oring to not seal properly. You have to pull half the motor apart to fix that so hopefully that’s not the issue.
ThePracticalMechanic I think my leak is one or more of the injectors top seals I still have air after new stand pipe I also only buy oem motor craft still air coming out of passenger side so I am gonna do every seal on the 4 injectors and hope it fixes leak if it still leaks I’m lost mine is 2007
Sean B I have one sitting in my lot for the last two weeks that needs the injector nipples resealed. Hopefully I will get the authorization soon. I thought for sure it was going to be the standpipe but when I got the valve cover off the stand pipes were fine.
ThePracticalMechanic my stand pipe was bad but still a lot of air coming out did u check out my video
ThePracticalMechanic I also did oil rail seals still leaking that’s why It has to be injector top seal
Why after did you install the new part you didn't stated the engine
I still needed to replace the other side stand pipe and plug as a preventative measure. I didn't want to take the leak test equipment off until all repairs were completed because a final leak test is performed before the engine goes back together.
Chad, are you hiring?
How much did that run $$$ for
looking for a shop/mechanic in the Memphis area.....
How much pressure do you use?
Our shop air is set at 150 so I just run that.
It would have been so much easier just to take the oil rail off.
Grainger is expensive
HI ONE CUESTION ? IM FROM MEXICO , MI INGLISH IS NOT PERFECT !! JEJE! I HAVE CODE B 1352 ECU . THANKS