Motorcycle Bottom End Rebuild | Part 3 of 3: Final Assembly
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Everything You Need To Rebuild Your Bottom End!
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How-to disassemble and rebuild the crankshaft and transmission on a modern 2-stroke motocross motorcycle or ATV engine. This is Part 3 of this 3 part engine rebuild series from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. In this video we cover installing the transmission into the case halve and then applying gasket maker onto the sealing surfaces. Also installing the other case halve and sealing everything up finishing the crank and bearing replacement on this engine. Get all the parts and tools needed for this complete engine rebuild @ www.rockymountainatvmc.com!
Click Here For Part 1 (Flywheel, Stator & Clutch Removal)
• Motorcycle Bottom End ...
Click Here For Part 2 (Splitting Cases, Crank & Transmission Removal, Crank & Bearing Installation)
• Motorcycle Bottom End ...
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Experience the ultimate convenience to get all the correct tools, and parts you need in order to get your OHV back on the trails. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/1974/Bottom-End-Rebuild?Bottomeendrebuildpart2&
I watched this video about 6 months ago when I bought a bike with a blown bottom end. Decided to give it a try and my bike is still running strong. I even bought the fancy tools you got to. I now do work on my friends bikes as well. Thanks!
all of you guys at rocky mountain deserve a pat on the back your service is the shit and it's awesome how you guys put things out like this and reply to any questions it shows you care about your customers and enjoy riding and fixing bikes as much as we do! keep up the good work you'l always be my main source for product/service!
Thanks zach sylvester! We appreciate the feedback and yes, we do love to ride!
ive referenced this video for rebuilding motors numerous times over the years. it doesnt get any better than this
I appreciate all the information that you are giving me. I need it all.
This video has been a lifesaver. Without it, I don't think I would have been able to tackle the rebuild on my '06 yz250f. God bless!
That's so good to hear! Glad we could help with your rebuild!
Thanks and good luck. The heating does work on the kx if you heat it in an oven (200 degrees is all it takes and it won't hurt seals). The oven method does stink up the kitchen though!
Once I got clutch and bottom end connect to bike its shifts smooth, thanks a lot to every at rockymountainatvmc u guys have been more then helpful
I too appreciate the fact that you put these videos on youtube. Even more that you do respond to questions and comments. guys like me spend more time trying to keep my kids bikes going than riding my own, and businesses/people like you help guys like me a lot! I purchase a lot from RM ATV and will continue! Thank you!
nvader88 Thanks a bunch! Maintenance on a family of bikes can be a full time job in itself! Let me know if there's any videos that could help you in the future and thanks for watching!
I just wanted to let you know that I tore the 99yz250 completely down and all I found was a loose shift drum bolt. I went ahead and put new crank and all in it and new top end.I just fired it up! It started on the 3rd kick! I can't thank you enough for the videos!! I am so proud of myself! lol Thanks a bunch!
Putting the transmission back in, yeah. Totally pro removal and installation in the video. Awesome!
Yup I accidentally dropped my shifter forks n got gears outa place They left out the hour it takes to get your shifter forks back on the shifting drum and in between the right gears
Thats impressive i rebuilt the bottom end on my kawi and it was all but a f--king nightmare! you made it look pretty easy
This video will be a great complement to my English classes. Thank you.
best instructional video on this subject on the web.
Wow man, just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to show everyone how to do that. I have built several top ends but never dreamed I would attempt the crank and berrings until I watched you 20 times. I ordered all the tusk tools you mentioned, a service manual, berrings, and a Hot Rods complete crank like you said. Very nice tools and crank by the way. Now, if I only had a bike to work on....
Just kidding. The tear-down is almost complete. Thank you for your videos.
I can't say how awesome it was to watch your instructional vid's. I am taking a course at home that does not include the videos and these were a huge amount of help. Thanks again.
it is hard to shift when the motor isn't running and you are trying to shift it by hand. However neutral should not be all the way down. Try spinning the countershaft with one hand while trying to shift. This helps the gears move into place.
@brentnowell -
1 - The crank goes all the way in.
2 - We don't change the timing. We put it back where it originally was, which is where the manual recomended.
3 - we don't need to check the timing after the piston was on. we set the stator to where the manual said to set it.
4 - I wouldn't say bearing wear in the transmission is common - it depends on how bad the wear is.
5 - the bar stock comes with the tool. steel.
Are you using Tusk camera ?
LOL bro that made me laugh out loud for real
13th Apostle I peed a little when I read this 😂
- yes it is. the gears need to be moving so they can slide into place. It is difficult to spin it fast enough by hand sometimes (Which always makes you nervous when rebuilding)
Sounds good, glad to hear it was just that and not something worse!
You have to be able to pull the crank into the bearings. If you push it or force it somehow from the opposite side you will most likely damage the crank or throw it off ballance.
This video should give you a good start. There is simply not enough demand for that specific bike but it will be similar enough to this video and if you follow a service manual you should be able to get the job done.
The right tools definatly make a huge difference. good luck!
you make it look so easy, I have never do this before but I might give it ago by following this video :/
@sx512 - you can split the case from the other side, but if you want to remove the transmission from the case you need to take out the stuff on the right side.
You guys are AWESOME, I'm about to rebuilt my 2 stroke yz250. I am learning a lot from your videos. Thanks very much.
I don't have the manual either. I recomend getting one to be sure.
Thank you for your inputs. The oil looks black and muddy during change. I am planning to open the magneto cover and check everything up. thanks again. If i find something ... will update you.
This is the same problem with most Kawaskis. The best thing to do is assemble the engine (crank and transmission) in the right crank half first, then pull the crank throgh the left side for final assembly. This way you can heatthe bearings in the right side and freeze the crank so the crank drops into the right side.
I just got my crm 250 back from having a crank rebuild, the builder told me not to bother with doing the top end at the same time even though that is what i wanted, it just makes sense too.. Cut a long story short, two weeks after getting the bike back, the brand new small end bearing shit itself and destroyed the piston and head.
So now i find myself looking at these videos, proper out of my depth, i don't have the space or tools or even experience to carry out work like this, but it seems i have no choice. With potential pieces of the small end bearing in the crank cases, i'll have to split it all again and clean, hopefully a clean is all the bottom end will need, and of course a rebore on the cylinder, new piston and small end bearing...
I am dreading doing any work like this to the engine, well out of my depth.. I felt bad enough about taking the top end off lol, replacing the top end i think i could manage, but splitting the cases and rebuilding it all, especially after watching these videos, i don't stand a chance lol.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Cheers
Most likely will need to have someone repress and ballance the crank. The right tools make all the difference. The crank must be pulled into the cases, it can't be forced.
i am satisfied with you rockyMountain ATVMC guys
@KX817 - Great question. If you have a KX with the c-clip that holds the primary gear on, I now have an adaptor that works with our crank puller. It should be in stock this week!
I always recomend you follow your manual. I use normal Bel-Ray bearing grease. The purpose of the grease is to make sure the seal goes on right, and to make sure the seal breaks in right.
that is some good shit. i can definitely see this coming in handy later. tusk sold me, ill buy their stuff when i do it too. great video. 5 stars.
Garret Blackburn - The difference in liquid gasket makers such as Yamabond and a "Regular" Liquid gasket maker is the recommended gasket makers "as stated in your service manual" are designed to hold up in a higher vibration higher heat situations so that's why you always want to follow right along with what your service manual is saying
Use Loctite 5920 Premium copper gasket sealant. Its better than Yamabond and is a fraction of the price. I get mine from Halfords.
Rocky Mountain
@@baggie00001 good for you!
@tlbohanon - The last thing you want to do is press it in. it has to be pulled in. On a KX250 you need to heat the case half in an oven (flame eill damage internal seal) and freeze the crank. It will drop right into place.
WOW! 1893! i didn't know Suzuki existed 116 years ago. Assuming it is 100 years newer, i would recomend Belray, Maxima, etc, motorcycle 80 weight gear oil.
having the right tools can be the difference between easy and nightmare.
Oh... I just ordered a torque wrench! Hopefully this will save me in the future! The right tools for the job makes it a whole lot easier!
@mrjata - It depends on the machine. Some bikes (most hondas) use a gasket. Some only use a sealant (most Yamahas) like yamabond 5. If the manufacture calls for a gasket, you have to use a gasket for spacing reasons.
Yes. you have to pull the cover off, remove the clutch basket and primary gear. The seal is in there tight!
@troyfrtc - the joys of electrical problems! it could be a lot of things. I would suggest having a shop diagnose the problem.
this makes me confident that i may be able to do it myself. The transmission assembly looks scary I would hate that thing to fall on the ground in 400 pieces.
It depends on the problem. If the bottom end has a bad crank or crank bearing (or is showing wear), you need to rebuild it. Of course if you have a transmission problem, you need to split the cases as well. However; if you don't need to do it, then I wouldn't do it for no reason.
Your main bearings would be affected by whether your clutch is pulled in or not. When the clutch is pulled in gears in your transmission stop spinning (even in neutral). Most bikes make a little more noise (in neutral) when the clutch in engaged as aposed to being disengaged (pulled in). That is because you are driving gears in the transmission. You may just be hearing the gears driving each other, or you may have a bad clutch basket bearing or some other shaft bearing.
if your center case halves require a gasket then you need to run the gasket. The thickness of the gasket is critical if it is made for it.
@crf250rider6 - if you want to do it right - YES. it takes a few hours with practice.
There is really only one way it can go. Refer to your service manual to make sure you got it right. It is worth noting that it is difficult to shift it whil it is on your work bench. You need to spin the drive shaft quickly while trying to turn the shift cam to get it to shift. Turning the drive shaft gets the gears moving and keeps them from binding up.
This video is one of the best I've seen. I look forward to more of your mechanical illustrations. I race enduros and have 03 and 06 KTMs (EXC and XCW). This video will be useful.
@metalmillica - you need to check the shift cam behind the clutch basket. maybe the spring loaded lever that holds the cam in each gear has a problem.
You make look way to easy
I rebuilt 3 of my motors and every time i forget where all the parts go to hahahaha ....
Nice video though ...
It fits most. There are a few that it won't work on. I am not certain what tool you are refering to though. Case splitter works on all, crank puller won't fit the raptor 660 and a couple others.
@stutest2 - i am not sure. I would use what the manual recomends. In this case it was yamabond 5.
"sweating" in the bearings into the case, as well as sweating in the crank into the bearings is way better than to use some wierd special tools wich maybe wont place everything correct. IN MY OPINION! :) (cheaper too)
Hampus Olsson what do u mean ‘sweating’?
heat the case freeze the bearings/crank
Not necessarily. Only if the crank spun in the main bearings. The biggest reason to change a crank shaft assembly is if the lower rod bearing wears out. It is usually cheaper to replace the whole crank than to buy the rod assembly and pay to have someone press it in and balance the old crank.
@paintballing03 - thanks. your kx 80 kill switch should just plug into the wiring harness. I doubt it is hard wired in. I am confused why you need to pull that to get the engine out though. Pull your stator and spark plug wire and your engine is no longer connected to the electrical.
it should only have one screw that adjusts jetting - the air screw (The other may be an idle screw) the air screw is a minor adjustment on the air/fuel mixture on the slow jet. it should be set between 1 to 2 turns out. 2 being the leanest. If you are still rich on the idle to 1/4 turn, then you need to go with a smaller pilot jet. The only way to lean the needle is by either changing it or adjusting the clip 9raise clip to lean) to adjust main jet - it must be changed.
@plomarine - Both methods work and are safe if done right. The OE books will tell you to use a puller (They are pulled in the factory when the bikes are manufactured).
it depends on the bike for the "absolute needs", but you can do most with theses "must haves". flywheel puller, case splitter, crank puller, and snap ring pliers. And of course your common tools. It realy isn't that hard. Just takes a little time.
@9lives22 - it depends on the machine. refer to your manual. In most cases you need the tools to do it right and with a lot less frustration.
You guys make it look so easy, thanks for the step by step tutorial, I feel confident I can do this and refer to the video ,
@metalmillica - As long as the shift forks are lined up in the right grooves on the shift drum, you should be fine. Just make sure it rotates through the gears. you have to spin the gears so they can move into place as you are testing.
Some symptoms are you'll have knocking or noise coming from the motor. Sometimes it will cause a whine or whistle almost if your bearings is spinning in the case.
Great question. No it won't. Most KX cranks have a c-clip holding the primary gear on the right side of the crank, so the tool doesn't have any thing to thread into. The best think to do on the KX is to heat the bearing a little, freeze the crank, then install the right side of the crank first. Then instal the tranny on the right side. Then use the puller to pull the left case onto the left side of the crank for final assembly.
Thank you guys for using a yami for the demonstration.
hey man, great vid. Im changing my 1st gear cog and shift fork on my yz250 2000 model. this vid is such a great help, thanks.
Ok, thanks a lot. The bike is a 2001 cr125. I'll definitely be referring to your videos during the tear down.
Well... I'm not sure the right side crank bolt had worked loose.(I used medium strength lock-tight on all the bolts) When I tore it down it had a broken clutch spring bolt,my fault, I didn.t have a torque wrench,then I noticed the broken clutch rod. Plus the clutch actuator arm had a chip in it,so I order more new parts, hopefully this will cure the problem.I tried to save some money by buying an older bike, but it is nickel diming me to death now. Thanks for all your help! You guys are GREAT!
I would recommend investing in a service manual and then following that very closely. It will walk you through the rebuild and give you all the necessary torque specs. The teardown and rebuild will obviously be different from the motor shown in this series of videos but this video would be a great reference to follow. Either way be careful and pay close attention to the order and location of each part and keep things seperate and organized. If you do that it will make the job alot easier.
whatch close. Our clutch cable is hooked up when the cover goes back on.
@ 5:22 it is always good to apply threadlocker on the Drive Gear bolt before threading it in.
you have to split the case to change the bearings. When you split the case you have to deal with the transmission. Yes you need to remove it. It isn't bad though. You will do fine.
An expert had to start as a novice at some point. With the right tools and a service manual to double check your work, you will be a pro in no time!
Sorry for the slow reply. The new seals will definitely cause a little drag, but shouldn't be too much. If the crank felt good before you put in the seals, I am sure you are fine (assuming seals were put in correctly). Crank seals are quite tight, especially the right side.
Sweet! Glad to hear that's all it was and that the videos helped you out. Good Job!
I was having trouble gettin them to move after the shiftpawls were in but the clutch hadn't been installed yet. They shifted smoothly 1-N-2-3-4-5
yes we do. refer to our website.
You should be able to shift through the gears without having the clutch assembly installed. Some bikes will be smoother than others and a little oil will help the gears shift but yeah you should be able to shift through without the clutch assembly installed
If there was a gasket there then you need a gasket. The tolerances of the case halves are designed to have that gasket in there.
@79stingman - Yeah, I would have done more to diagnose the problem before. Do you know it was a problem in the transmission? Could the cylinder or crank have been full of gas from being laid down, locking the piston? I have never seen a shift fork jump out of the drum. if it did, you would see some seriously bent forks and most likely some ground gears (a wreck won't do it though). I am not sure what to tell you without knowing the problem. good luck!
@Sandeep9201 - you most likely have a bad shift fork and a couple gears. you will have to split it to inspect. i am not sure about the cam mechanism you are talking about without looking it.
What all did "fixed it from leaking oil" entail? If it shifted through all the gears before the "fix" something may have been done when you were working on it but i'm not exactly sure what you did...
i think it is possible. I suggest trying again with a gasket.
It doesn't look like they have changed the Main Shaft or the Countershaft since 99 but i would recommend checking the OE numbers after you have torn it down and figured out exactly what is wrong and then going from there. They may be the exact same parts from 99 up so it may not matter. Thanks!
- great question. Very common on kawasaki's. yes you can still heat the case, but don't use a flame. heat the case in your cooking oven. Just set the temperature to about boiling temperature. This will not hurt the seal. Your wife may be mad about the oily smell in her oven though (of course we like the smell)!!
Rocky Mtn.you have the best how to videos out there thanks!
Thank you very much for the video. couldnt of done it without it
I will repairing my bikes thanks for guide video.
suponCoZaA Build You're welcome. Thanks for choosing Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.
cheers for the video breakdown.
Pretty helpful knowing what I'm getting into if I buy an RGV250
On a rebuild, we are not refering to power; rather, the area of the motor. Top-end usually refers to everything above the crank. Bottom-end refers to the crank.
@chrisnorman83 - it is important, but every bike is different. make sure you refer to your manual. Also, some guys that do this enough have a pretty good feel for the torque they are putting on a bolt and therefore don't use a torque wrench all the time.
If your crank is moving then you have problems. Your rod will usually be able to move side to side a little, but it should not be able to move directly up and down. The crank should not be able to either. Grab the flywheel to test for any free play in the main bearings. It should be solid.
@mxjunkie28 - Thanks. We are located in Utah. We are a mail order/internet company for all your apparel, parts, and accessory needs. However, we don't have a service shop - just discount retail.
It's usually referred to as your Primary Gear Nut but it's going to depend on which bike because torque specs will vary. I would recommend investing in a service manual.
- you could seperate the crank from the transmission by removing the clutch. As far as free-play goes, you should have none when grabbing the flywheel. If you do, you have wore bearings.
@ghat13 - it doesn't get much easier than a yz125. you won't mess it up. Just refer to the manual. OEm and Wiseco are good.
Refer to the manual or parts diagram. It is usually quite simple. you need to pull the spring back so ther is tension on the spring. It should just slide in.
Saved me 1000 thank you so so soo much