RMU MK3 Filament Retraction Unit - Prusa MMU2 - Chris's Basement
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- The Wedge Group has a handy new buffer for the MMU2. We are going to look at some of my favorite spool holders then do the assembly and installation of the RMU MK3.
00:00 Introduction
00:49 MMU2 Overview
03:39 RMU MK3 Overview
05:23 RMU Assembly and Installation
16:35 Test Print
17:50 Conclusion
Helpful Links:
RMU MK3 Retraction Management Unit, not affiliated:
filamentbuffer.co.uk/
Gravity Spool Holder:
www.prusaprinters.org/social/...
Rewinder Spool Holder:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:333...
Gustav the turtle:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:220596
MMU2 PTFE coupler:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:323...
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Thanks Chris, it makes the mounting size of the mmu3 much smaller than the original
I'll get it thanks to your review
Hope you enjoy it!
I've been using my MMU2 buffer for years with no problems.
Cool, the new one they release for MMU3 is really cool.
Chris, thanks for always taking the time to make these videos! always like learning something new!
Thanks Jordan!
Another great video Chris, thanks for making it easy to understand and follow along. I always feel like I come away from your videos with much more knowledge about 3D printers and printing :) Keep up the great work
Glad to help!
Как всегда, Крис Подвальный, самые дельные рекомендации и самые честные обзоры в мире 3d принтинга. 👍🏻
Спасибо
That is a nice looking buffer design. I too had issue with the auto-reminder spools, and found that a buffer design similar to this one solved my issues. This one looks less “fiddly” than the one I built, and seems like a great option for Prusa MMU2 users.
We like it! Thanks for watching!
interesting concept! and love the Turtle 🐢
😎
Glad you like it!
My only qualm about someone selling a printable model is that I would want the step files, if I'm paying for it, so I could be able make some alterations or customizations I may want to do. i.e Not a big fan of a plastic rod for the rollers, I'd want to use a metal dowel pin, but with the stls, that modification becomes unnecessarily difficult. Printed hammer nutts, that is silly. Also I would want to use heat set inserts where ever possible instead of drop in nutts, so again -- can't mod it without jumping through hoops of converting an stl to a solid body in fusion. I don't mind jumping through hoops for a free model, but if I'm paying for a digital file, I expect it to be in form I can work with.
Good points.
purchased. excited to try this one as i haven't had the greatest success with using the "rewinder spools"
Excellent, it has worked well for me and let me get ride of all the spools taking up table space.
This is awesome. Looks to be a very simple and reliable approach.
It's worked well for me so far.
Thank you Chris. Be well my friend.
Thanks Zimmy, you as well!
Fantastic find. Ordered one. This will solves the only issue I was having with the MMMu2
Great, good luck with hour projects!
@@ChrisRiley Had a couple of months now and can't say enough about it. Thanks again for the in depth review!
Time passes by. When I watched Chris' first video on the MMU I didn't even own a 3d-printer. Now I have a Prusa and an MMU2s. Printed well above a thousand hours with my MMU and I have a system based on the shown universal auto-rewind spool holder. It took me a bit of optimisation with the spring (ended up with the strong spring printed in Prusament PETG and setting it to level "12") but since I found the optimal conditions it works like a charm and very reliably. Those universal spool holders are also suitable for every 1kg (or lower) spools I have had so far, even the very bulky ones and fairly easy to load.
That's great! Thanks for your insight.
Great video Chris.
My U.A.R.S.H. setup has been working great. I used PLA for the new version of the springs, and they work great in the mmu. Some caution that these can wear out over time, but I've not had any issues.
Awesome!
Nice to see more improvements to the MMU2 product.
Thanks!
Awesome video and it was the reason I paid for the STL files for the RMU. While I love all the Prusa products I really think if the MMU came stock standard with this RMU and the pass-through push connector mods on the extruder and the MMU it would be more aligned with what we've come to expect from Prusa and their products being reliable and working straight out of the box.
That's definitely a valid point. Thanks for your insight.
Loved the video Chris and decided to try it out. Downloaded the STL's.
Let us know what you think!
@@ChrisRiley Came out great Chris and big time saver. Well worth the cost and time. I sent a photo of my setup to your twitter.
Very good video. You paused often while speaking just enough for me to understand new concepts. All to often, content creators blurt and talk far too fast to understand.
Yep. I cancelled my XL preorder and decided to go this route because I have three MK3+'s. This video has become invaluable. Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Damn, I designed a two idler system very similar to this, same concept anyway. I never uploaded the files because I wasn't confident that it would work for all filament types (some very stiff filaments would be too hard to pull). I wish that I would have anyway. Nice job Wedge Group.
That stinks! Thanks for watching!
Thanks Chris I had no idea this existed…not the cheapest but ordered anyway!
It's been very helpful. Let us know what you think.
Thanks, Chris, I went for it and bought the STLs, I would like to give my MMU another shot. I think the long PTFE tubing to the Prusa MMU was too much of a drag on my filament, so it was never happy, I want to give this a shot, thanks again!
I just saw your order Mike. We love to hear any feedback.
Thanks for checking it out Mike!
@@stuartwedge872 I tried it out finally today - I had just a little problem, I'm using the side-fed version, and one filament I crossed the filament over itself (going around the pulley), so it took too much effort to pull on and ground the filament in the MMU. Once I realized what was going on and fixed that, I was able to print flawlessly. Thanks for making this project, it made a huge difference for me.
@@stuartwedge872 Just once again, I want to thank you for this project. I am using it today and it works so well.
Defo buying this today! Thanks alot
Cool! Good luck with your projects!
Run the filament straight through the prusa buffer. I've never put a loop in it and it works perfectly and has never hung up. It will put it's own half loop in when it backs out the filament and will create a straight smooth path when engaged.
Good to know! Thanks
Very cool, did not know this existed, but then I don’t have an MMU2 YET!
Thanks Sergio!
I bought the STL's as soon as they were available. I love the RMU MK3. It is exactly what I needed. Great video!
I'm pretty happy with it. Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley it was a really good video. We watched it here and of course we had no idea what you were going to say. We were more than a little apprehensive to say the least. Thanks Chris, we think you presented it completely fairly and the fact you have had no feed issues with the RMU reflects our own experience. All the work Alan put in was to make the MMU reliable and stop all the fiddling around on the back and it worked. Did you notice that when a spool ends, the ejected bit of filament can simply be removed from the buffer? That's one of my favourite features.
@@stuartwedge872 Nice! I haven't ran one out yet, now I'm looking forward to it.
Good job Chris
Thank you!
Thanks, Chris. I appreciate people developing solutions for the MMU2. I'll pass on this, my gravity spool holders AND my setup are working great. The only issues I have (knock on wood) are the filaments sometimes stringing leaving the hotend.
How/where do you put your spools? Bout to get mine and was going to do the gravity holders too. Was going to put them in a dry box tote that can hold all 5 spools. Have you had issues with the gravity pulling the filament out of the mmu?
@@GamesJames it would be nice to put photos on here... I bought industrial metal shelving racks from Sam's Club and have my FDM printers about 30 inches up, the next shelf is about 60 inches (from the floor), and that's where my gravity spools reside, above the printer. I'm able to get to the front and back of the rack on that end. The PTFE lines use a, kinda 2 triangle looking connecters from thingiverse or Prusaprinters held together with 3 magnets each... I love the connectors. It's simple to change filaments and open the top of the MMU2S. I couldn't be happier.
@@christopherenoch4230 Thank you.
Nice Chris and thanks for providing the extra info.
Thank you for the wealth of information 🙏
You're welcome!
Thank you! Ordered.
Hope you like it!
Thanks for this video, it’s all quite interesting. I also watched your video on the upgraded mmu2 and the one on how to use this on every Marlin printer. But what I am curious about is, are there better solutions at this moment? And can the mmu3 work with an Ender 3V2 Neo with a skr mini E3V3 board running klipper on a btt pi. Although I did all these upgrades for my printer by myself (using several of your videos) I am struggling with sorting this out. As I am still struggling with getting macros working (I had to start from scratch multiple times over and over again)
A little bit of help, ore perhaps a video on how to use the new mmu3 with klipper and the newer main boards would be great.
Love to watch your channel and thanks for all the useful content.
Thank you! Yes, the MMU3 is going to be a bit trickier to get working with other firmware as it does talk back and forth a lot more. I will look into what it will take and see if we can come up with some videos on it.
Great video Chris, I have a week a prusa MK3 and i love it than I see your video and maybe god play with me but i see a MMU2S brand new for half the money so i buy it put it together
But i see allot videos that had many problems with the filament and that I dont like lol
but this video I tought wow thats great so i go to there website and buy the download files and now i print them to get it togeher
Stil have to print some from it and order the stuff i need for it
So I hope this works for me to
Thanks for the video Chis I learn allot of your videos so keep posting
Greets from Nederland
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your projects
Chris, another great video! Thank you for bringing another innovative idea to the surface for us to see.
I built an Ikea enclosure around my MK3. The way the current MMU2 system mounts to the top with the filament spools facing forward works well. My biggest complaint is loading filament through the buffer. PITA
This system looks to load a lot easier. I also like how compact it is.
Do you know if they've tried mounting it with the IKEA enclosure system?
Thanks for that!! There a range of reasons for the overall design. One of the reasons we provide cut to length tubing in the BF002 and BF001 is because the length allows ejection of spent spools back to the filament buffer so you don't end up disassembling tubing to remove spent filament. Just pop the lid open and pull it out. And Chris's video is everything we could have hoped for! When we heard the video had been launched we had not seen it so we were all heart in mouth hoping for a good review.
Thanks Stuart for all the info.
Received and installing mine this evening. excellent setup. However, disappointed a bit that the brackets aren't even black or orange to match the Prusa. They came in a gray color which doesn't fit at all. Great detail in assembly. Thank You!
That's disappointing, did they send you the STLs?
@@ChrisRiley Unfortunately I didn't hear from them.
Hey Chris, good video. I saw this a while ago on launch and passed. After your video, and the accompanying discount code made this a purchase. I know you got the kit, but you may choose to print out the parts and build one as a follow-up video.
To The Wedge Group, maybe I am missing it, but I do not see any print settings in terms of nozzle or layer height.
Sorry about that. 0.2 layer height, 0.4 nozzle.
Thanks and thanks for giving it a try. I actually did print all my own parts and they came out great. I used the stock Prusa/Prusa slicer settings.
@@ChrisRiley That is awesome to know! Did I miss that tidbit in the video? As soon as I get my MK3S back up (failed bed thermistor - witing on warranty part form Prusa), and after I complete my 1M tall SpaceX Starship build I'll Print this and install my MMU2S.
I never wanted to print any of the other methods because they all use way to much plastic and I just don't see that necessary. This solution is perfect. I bought it in the first 3 minutes of watching the video. The price is definitely ok.
Thanks!
Chris thank thank you for all the videos I have learned so much from you. I was hoping you could tell me how long the tubes should be from the MMU to the RMU? I printed a remake and can't find this info can you help or someone else help?
Thanks, Sean
Glad to help. 1-5 397 mm 407mm 417mm 430 mm 442mm
Nice footage. I now think it’s better to save money for a #mosaic palette (pro) instead of a mmu2 with the rmu-addon. To much of a risk for that kind of money if you ask me. Thanks again for showing us 👍
Thanks for watching! I haven't tried the Palette 3 yet, but I never had a lot of success with the Palette 2.
Great video Chris. Thanks. Just ordered the STL files to give it a go. What's the internal diameter of the PTFE tubes?
I think they're all 2mm. Good luck with your projects!
Hi Chris, is there any mention of the length of the PTFE tubes going to the MMU?
398mm 407mm 416mm 430mm 443mm
@@ChrisRiley , Thanks Chris. Great Video as always.
I've been away from 3d printing for a couple years now. Burned myself out with mods that didn't really help anything. Now, I'm coming back to see what new advancements have been made. I have an MK3S+ with MMU2S that sprawled all over the table. Also have a Palette 2 Pro with minimal use. So, I'm relearning a lot and your videos, even these older ones, are helping! Also, it's really nice that Prusa has things organized and didn't do the Creality thing of 20 different "Ender 3" printers. LOL.
Anyway, my slue of questions: Do you still use the RMU or is there something better now?
Any advice on getting 2 MK3S printers (1 with MMU2S) going again, besides firmware updates and maybe some new printed parts for the filament runout?
I was midway into adding Raspberry Pi's to them. I want to send prints via wifi, is PrusaLink the way to go or should I look into Octoprint again?
You've got some many videos to watch, I'm just not sure which ones were to show and test out the concepts of new things. So, how are you running your MK3S's now?
Awesome, glad they have helped! I do still have the RMU and I still think it is my favorite way to handle the filament buffer, it's just so much more compact than other versions. There really shouldn't be much to getting them back going again. On my MK3's, I still like to use the pi zero W on the back of the boards and load octoprint. I then use prusa slicer to send them files, it works really well, with that said, prusa connect would be a great choice too, if you want to monitor them from the Prusa connect site.
Looks great Chris, however I run mmu2 left and right on a desk ,so accessibility to the left printer is limited(near wall) ,hopefully they will make a right handed mount.
We don't have plans to do it, although we love innovation and one client used the STL files to do a redesign in tinkercad. His filament buffer hosts sixteen cores, feeds from top and bottom and is wall mounted!!
Wow, that's impressive!
Great video sir! I’m hoping I can learn to be as proficient with the MMU as you someday.
Does the CHRIS40 code not work for the BF002 stl files and fittings package? It’s giving me an error
Yeah, it just works for BF003. Just the STL's.
@@ChrisRiley no problem I purchase them can’t wait for the parts to come in! I know the video is 6 months old by now but do you have any new insight on it? Thanks for the reply!
@@remiilatte I use it all the time, works great. It's a little hard to load, but no worse than the stock buffer.
Roughly how much filament is needed for each purge? I've been debating buying/DIYing one of these, but the cost of a toolchanger seems worth it when you consider how expensive water soluble + other specialty filaments can be.
For any given layer, the amount of filament in the wipe tower depends on the number of tool changes for that layer, regardless of the number of copies of a part you print. So if you're changing colors a couple of times per layer (such as with the turtle) you get a large dense wipe tower; for prints with a small number of color changes, you get a smaller wipe tower.
On a recent 3-color job that I printed, the wipe tower required 17% of the filament overall, but that job was small and only had 8 tool changes. For another project with 4 colors and 248 tool changes, the wipe tower took 48% of the filament. Note that for each of these jobs, I printed 4 copies of the part; if I had only printed 1 copy of the part, the percentages would have been worse.
If you want to know what it would be like for the types of prints you anticipate making, you can get estimates from Prusa Slicer; just configure a profile for a MK3S+MMU2S printer, and then start experimenting. When you switch to the Feature Type view, it will tell you how much of the print is devoted to the wipe tower (along with everything else).
Thanks for the explanation @Craig Trader as Craig laid out, it is not very straightforward on how to determine how big the block will be.
Do you think this would work with the MK4 and MMU3 since they are basically same form factor as the mk3s and mmu2s?
Absolutely, there might be a few different parts, but I am sure they will have them available soon.
@@ChrisRiley All right thanks!
Will this solution work with flexible materials? I've frankenstein my own MMU2S buffer solution that works for rigid filaments but I still have problems with flexible filaments. Will be worth the $$ if it works .
If the filament can be pulled in by the MMU I think the RMU will work. It should have any impact based on how flexible the filament is.
Hey Chris. Where do you suggest placing Raspberry Pi if I have RMU MK3?
That's a great question. I am not sure the best place, maybe down low on the extrusion. I still can't get octoprint to work with my MMU2.
Hi Chris , I got the .Stl Kit , if it saves space that what i need .. I have all spring etc. Great video as always..
Thanks Dan!
Great video. Where can I find the MMU coupler STL?
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris!
@@olafneumann5294 The coupler STL is well worth it.
Completely unrelated to the RMU (I don't have any problem running the stock Prusa buffer, so no need to fix what ain't broken. I don't make a loop in it though, I just feed it straight through and it creates the loop on unload.), but do you have a video on how you take a model such as Gustav The Turtle and split it into different parts that can then be assigned different colors?
I guess it's done by reversing the .stl file in some sort of CAD-program? Cause I can't see how e.g. PrusaSlicer could figure that out, unless I've missed something...
Grab all the STL's, like the ones included with Gustav, select your MMU printer profile then add all the files to prusa slicer at the same time. Prusa with ask if you want to treat them all as the same model. Then Prusa slicer will be smart enough to put it together. Then you can reassign the extruders as needed over on the right.
@@ChrisRiley awesome, thank you!
The thingiverse link in the video had it as only a single object, but I found a remix now that had it split.
I think I'll take a tip from one of your other videos and check if any of the colors will bleed into others, and if I need to increase the purge between certain transitions.
Thanks again! 🙂
Not open source? I dunno what to think about that
Right? I would of gladly bought the bearings etc from them if I could print my own without needing to buy the stl’s I get that they had to design it but it’s for a completely open source printer….
As much as I hate the phrase, it is what it is.
QUESTION. How wide is the printer after adding this? Awesome video Chris!
With is on in the X it's about 45cm, Y it's 50cm including the LCD.
@@ChrisRiley thx Chris!
I have just pushed the button on a i3 MK3S and a MMU2S, I find it a bit concerning at $A417 for the MMU2S you have to upgrade the unit?? , great video as always Chris
The MMU2 works just fine on it's own, this is about filament management. Thanks for watching
Ack so sick of missing the notifications. You know back in my day subscriptions meant give me all the videos.....
We miss them too! Thanks for watching!
can you use to mmu2 with a prusa enclosure?
Yes, there is room for it. You have to get creative with the PTFE routing.
You still have to place spool holders somewhere, so how is this better than the internal spring system?
Glad you asked! The thing is, everyone has a different design and different thoughts on where filament goes. So, we took an approach that you can put them where you like. For us there were a lot of critical design factors. Putting the RMU close to the MMU makes a lot of sense because you can easily load and unload. We also have the two variants like Chris showed in his video. The Mod-S is great for loading from the side or below the desk or table. The Mod-T is for top loading or if filament is off to the right. We also considered that everyone with an MMU already has PTFE tube that will run between the RMU and the spools so we provide cut to length tubes to fit between the RMU and MMU. For us, the gravity and spring loaded spools are pretty good but not 100% reliable. We went for 100%. Like Chris said himself, he has had not one single issue with feeding since he fitted the RMU. We have run them for thousands of hours. we haven't either apart from the one time I forgot to close the door on it!!!! :(
Thanks Stuart, answering the comments makes our lives so much easier. 👍😀
I’m trying to order the Rmu stl files, but the code doesn’t work. Is there a new one?
Sorry the code expired.
Great video, product looks smart, but MAN, that is some huge sticker shock for a very simple concept. It seems to me that it would be pretty easy to make yourself with a few less conveniences.
I suppose so. Thanks for your comment
Do u use microcenter filamaent ive always had probem with mmu
Sometimes, mostly Printed Solid
Quite a good idea. But sadly they don't offer mounting brackets for the MK2.5
We're really sorry about that. It's a completely different chassis and we don't have one available to test. In development we have built dozens of test models to make sure it fits properly on the Mk3 frame. We are working on a bear frame model at the moment but don't have any plans to work on the Mk2 chassis.
Let me know if you look into the 2.5, I can try and help mock it up with one I have.
And just like that we will have the mounting bracket for the Mk2.5 in just a few days! If you subscribe to the site, you'll get a notification when it is released. It will be bundled with bear frame brackets as well as the Mk3 fittings so you can choose which you want. thanks to chris for testing for us, we didn't have a Mk2.5 so he kindly volunteered for us.
@@stuartwedge872 Great! I'll do!
@@stuartwedge872 Thanks guys! Let me know when it is ready on the site and I will put out a CZcams post about it.
Is this compatible with the bear? Im just referring to the unit attaching to the bear, not about firmware or anything related to that.
The bear extrusion makes everything very versatile. I would think with a couple of T nuts you could make it happen, no problem.
The company says they will be releasing Bear brackets "soon"
The idler wheels need a deeper groove.I can see the filament slipping off and jamming
It doesn't happen. The wheels are a close fit to the edges of the inner walls. The guiding of filament onto the wheels on both the Mod-S and Mod-T variants is carefully designed. In Chris's video you can see how the wheels fit in and he explains one of the reasons we use PETG as it allows for close tolerances. The filament buffer is very well designed. But I would say that, my son invented it. :)
Thanks Stuart.
Hi Chris, will it work with MMU 3 ?
Yes, should work exactly the same.
"It always seems to hang up sometimes" so which is it :)
lol, it's both.
£37.50 or $53.15 for just .stl files for a buffer. Other then that, okay for a commercial I guess.
Commercial?
@@ChrisRiley I love your videos. They have helped me from my very beginnings of 3D printing and I thank you for them. This video, IMO, feels like an advert.
I guess I am not sure why? Seems like I did the same thing here I do with pretty much everything, but I'm not super worried about it, but it is somewhat interesting.
is there a piece of paper that says "you're fired!" on your shelf?
Yep, that's off a old school printer!
2nd lol I tossed out my stock buffer system...to hard to load the filament through the buffer.
Agreed!
I hate loading the stock buffer!
Has anyone run the RMU with a Lack V2? If so, what is the recommended configuration?
I have not, not sure how it would fit. Maybe someone else will reply.
I think it will not comfortable to load.
I have Lack V2 and looking for better solution
@@ikif81 I've decided to try it. I might need to make the left side panel removable.
@@Mike_Neukam
I think it is too much expensive for trying , also to adjust the encloser for it.
I think to try other one , which you don't need to open for loading.
@@Mike_Neukam
THere is a problem to insert links here :
From site thingiverse , model number : 3847626
bin ich begeistern wo kommt her stl. ?
😀👍
Maybe you should check : Dry Box with electric Auto-rewind Spool holder MMU2 on the Prusa site.
Nice build.
I thought hey that’s a good idea. Then I saw the price. Ok, I’ll simply design my own, it’s not exactly a hard thing to replicate.
I get it, I do, but someone had to invest time in coming up with this. I think they did a nice job on it as well.
It's also just a glorified remix of the other roller style ones.
I haven't got round to it yet but the 3d snitzel airtight one looks about the best. Innovative check valve (like a metal cable tie)
I've just been using 2 bits of ptfe tube and let the buffer volume hang in few space
It seems like a lot of 3D printing related stuff have a huge tax on them just cause 3D printing. Tho nobody can say how much this Actually cost design and research wise
I also thought it was a good idea, then I saw the price, with a 40% discount, and bought it. Thought I'd probably spend more than the $30+ dollars on wasted time and filament of different iterations. Very impressive solution.
@@klschofield71 That's why your my hero Kevin. ;) Thanks for the comment.
Nice concept; too bad it mounts on the left-hand side. That's where my Raspberry Pi is mounted (directly above the electronics box). If they had one that mounted on the right side (without interfering with the power supply, that would be ideal) for me.
I have seen this comment a few times now. Maybe the guys can work up one that mounts on the PSU.
Couldn't you just mirror the STL models on the X axis before slicing it? I'm also thinking about mounting it to the right side, as my PSU will be outside of my enclosure.
Never had a problem with the stock buffer, dont overtighten the screws on the PTFE tubes, you need to be able to freely pull the filament. RMU is expensive considering its 60USD for the STLs alone... Not worth it, there is free designs out there that is just as easy to load, though I will give Alan that he made a very nice design, albeit with some limitations to where you can place your filament..
I think it's more of the fact that it's in an odd location for my setup, hard to load.
@@ChrisRiley Sure is, and that is certainly where alternatives like the RMU shines... I am just a little conflicted partly due to the price, and partly because these guys have been spamming marketing non stop on other communities :-) But I have learned to have a little respect for Alan and his creation, it certainly is a well designed buffer... I just don't like the way it is marketed.
50 $ for STL is it not too much ?
It might be a little on the high side.
First:)
🙂👍
NO Thanks! My spooling system works just fine. Its the actual MMU2s system that doesn't work. Sad that someone is making money on a system which in many cases is unreliable.
Thanks for your insight