Z Offset Adjustment for Perfect 3d Print Adhesion
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2020
- As the price of consumer-grade 3d printers falls, and the features improve, more and more entry-level 3d printers include auto bed leveling as a standard feature. With an ABL (auto bed leveling) system, you need to properly configure both your start of print GCODE and your Z-Offset for optimal prints. This video discusses both of these requirements and applies to any FDM style 3d print with a factory-installed or 3d party ABL system.
In this video, I demonstrate the techniques described on a Creality Ender 5 with a TH3D EzABL auto be leveling system that I installed. However, the methods described work equally well with Prusa i3 MK3 and MK3s system, Monoprice 3d Printers with ABL, and most FDM printers with ABL systems.
I used Cura 4.2 in the examples; however, these techniques also apply to any standard FDM slicer, including PrusaSlicer and Simplify3d.
Here is a link to the print bed calibration print I used:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:412...
Here is a link to the Google Slide deck used for the video:
docs.google.com/presentation/...
Z Offset Adjustment for Perfect 3d Print Adhesion
Please leave comments below so we can continue to learn together.
Irv
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i grow up with south park. having kyle's dad explaining things to me feels like home
Funny. I will have to look up the south park and see who kyle's dad is. Thanks for the comment. Good to laugh together.
😂 😂😂😂😂
+1 for you!
Wow, now that you say that. I can't unsee him as Gerald, even without the yamulke
@Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)
I love your videos, they are so helpful. You do remind me of kyles dad, just less...weird.
FINALLY! Someone who says more negative number to express moving the nozzle close to the bed, rather than larger or smaller number. I never felt it safe to assume that the person speaking meant smaller when the number goes more negative. Thanks DrVax!
I love your videos. You are always very good at explaining the subject and straight to the point plus no wondering in and out of subjects. Thank you!
Thank you SO MUCH! I've been fiddling around for over a week trying to figure out what was going on! It makes so much sense now! Every time I'd gert it level after the probe, it would look so much higher, but after adjusting the Z offset, the first layer looks awesome! You're amazing! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this. When I just started 3d printing, everybody tells you how to level your bed etc. and then you should just be able to print. Not true, it took me a while to figure out that you also need to make sure your z offset is correct. Even the official documentation (and video) for my Creality CR10 Smart Pro mentioned everything (up to auto bed level) but nothing about the z offset. So of course being the tweakhead that I am I started fiddling with this value and of course nothing worked as expected after that. Long hours of frustration was had before coming across this information. So I hope any new person starting out with 3d printing watches this video, will save serious pain and frustration, and also possibly stop you from quitting. So long and short of it, I wish I saw this video when I just started out, but it was a nice refresher to help re-calibrate my printer after getting a new head. Now at least I am sure what is "up" and what is "down" with adjusting the z offset.
Thanks Irv, I hadn't quite grasped what the number meant before. This was an excellent clear explanation.
You are a lifesaver. I spent hours trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and this helped me immensely thank you so much
Irv your videos are great. Bless you for sharing your knowledge in a concise and informative manner!
And I'm here again, watching this video and getting flashback from another one with an amazing content that helps me alot with the perfect first layer, and yes, it's you. Thank you for your hints, very useful.
what a wonderful way to convey information, providing the google slides is an amazing concept, Cheers!
thanks for the video, the pictures of what the line should look like were super helpful
Wow, I don't even know where to start complimenting you on your thoughts and approach about explaining !! Thank you ! You'd make a great teacher haha !!
Excellent video as always, on Facebook, if anyone asksa question, I always direct them to your videos as you explain things so clearly, and that my friend is so appreciated!
Thanks so much for the recommendations. I really appreciate it.
@@MakeWithTech I have a question regarding G code. What I am wondering what can I write to get my nozzle to squirt out a bit of filament and do a wipe before a print, if anyone, you are the man to ask, hey, could this be a topic for a future video of yours? Useful G code snippets?
@@crmusicproduction You can use a "Skirt". It extrudes a line around your actual print to make sure the flow is right...
i been fighting this for weeks,thank you for making this simple to understand!
Perfect timing just been trying to work this out and your video comes up thanx
My pleasure. Thanks for the comment.
Beautifully explained, thanks for sharing
Thank you for this video! It was very helpful.
Thank you so much. And now I also know and understand a little bit better.
Initially I thought that "0" (zero) is when the nozzle touches the bed. I understand now that the bigger the negative the closer the nozzle is to the bed. But, it doesn't make sense. What is the -2.2 (for example) a measure off?
Thank you so much for the video Sir I'm 46 and just getting into 3d printing I bought a creality x 3d printer it's a real pain in the a-- to work out but your helping me slowly learn so thanks again
Like any new skills, from workworking to skiing, it takes time. It is worth it as 3d printing is a great hobby.
Good video, thanks for making this video. Enjoy learning together with you.👍
Thanks. I had this reversed in my head. I was about to buy a new printer... :) Now I need to workout auto bed levelling.
As a newbie to FDM printing, this is exactly what I needed. So, thanks! I learned that my logic was making a drastically wrong assumption. I had assumed that the Z-Offset was merely the height which the nozzle needed to be above the bed, for the first layer. After all, I reasoned that if the first layer was set at .1mm, then that would be the height at which the nozzle would need to start laying down the filament (or in my mind, the Z Offset). But that's not the case at all, is it? Which leads to a question...
So let's say I have the Z Offset set to .2mm, yet the first layer height is to be .1mm... well now I'm confused. Does that mean that the nozzle will actually be .3mm above teh bed to lay down the initial .1mm high layer????
thank you , this has been driving me nuts
I just found the menu on my cr10spro merci!
this video is awesome for me.
It gave me the missing hint to get maximum accuracy with the autolevel function of my printer.
I am using the Creality CR-6 SE with Autolevel Function without additional sensor.
This works very fine but is has a constant temperature for the nozzle and the bed which cant be changed by the user.
With the built in Leveling Function it only uses 120°C at the Nozzle and ZERO at the printing bed.
I added the two lines of G-Code at the startup procedure in cura as you showed in your video and my first layer test comes out much better.
THANKS DR VAX!!
Happy to help.
Thank you for a most informative video. How does adjusting the Z offset effect the overall accuracy of the print height? I need accuracy in dimensions as well as good adhesion. Thank you for your help.
Love you video. I am trying to see how do adjust Z offet in CURA 5.0 There are 2 settings. I want to learn what is the differences between setting.
I am a cnc machinist and understand XYZ values very well but I didn’t really understand how to use that for 3D printing because I remove material and this is adding material I kinda figured it was a Z axis problem but this video helped me confirm it. Thank you. One question is using a mini delta printer is there a permanent optimal z offset settings for most prints or do I have to adjust for each individual program from Thingiverse
Probably the best explanation of the Z Offset I've yet to watch. Good job all around. I am a bit curious about the second G28 inserted after the G29. I haven't seen that second G28 before. Time to go do some research it would seem :)
The second G28 is probably not necessary. It just re-homes the printer so they slicer will start from a know position. Once again probably not necessary but does not hurt.
@@MakeWithTech G28 disables auto-bed levelling unless the firmware has been configured to not do so.. if you add a second G28 after the g29 marlin will not apply auto-bed levelling on some printers and you would be effectively relying on the manual level of the bed only..
It is completely unnecessary in any case, the auto-bed level IS a homing command as such, it exits with marlin knowing exactly where the nozzle is located as indicated by the x/y/z values NOT flashing on the LCD.
It is bad practice at best, and for some people it will result in them not being able to use ABL at all if they add this command to startup GCode.
From the Marlin G28 documentation..
Homing is required before G29, M48, and some other procedures.
If homing is needed the LCD will blink the X Y Z indicators.
G28 disables bed leveling. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on, or use RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 to automatically keep leveling on after G28.
You are correct the second G28 is a mistake. Thanks for the info.
@@MakeWithTech not sure if you can edit descriptions of videos on tube, dont upload very often, if you can might be a good idea to add a note to that effect..
I am just starting in 3d printing and have used a lot of the info you are sharing and very grateful for it, I am now at a stage where bed level is no longer a mystery but without watching you ever know if you missed something, but this time i was able to spot a mistake, a couple of weeks ago I might have made the issue worse ;)
Great information great video thank you!
Your welcome.
also doing the Z offset in CURA allows one to do this on a print by print, filament by filament bases. I thing my Nozzle is to low as one cause of many useing the Amazon Basic filament. I am getting warping in the Front Right. It is so bad that the Print stays stuck to the bed but it is pulling the Buildtak sheet right off the Bed. And you know how stong the magnets are on a Buildtak Flexplat system bery strong. So there must be a tone of force applyed to pull the sheet off the bed. But not the print itself. The print is perfectly stuck to the aluminum Flex sheet. I use the Anti Warping Plug in in Cura 5.0. Try it just on the corners of your print.Also I have tried a Brim which also works well.
Great Video - as usual thanks
Just a hint If you have an AnyCubic Kobra Neo there is a setting tool in the kit that allows you to adjust the level sensor to the nozzle. This is not mentioned in the instructions - i guess that all Kobras MAY need this instruction to be carried out - Its an Anycubic Video
Always enjoing your videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video as always👍😀
One thing to note, PETG like to be placed on the build plate, not pressed into it, so when printing with PETG, you wants a bigger distance to the build plate.
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Good point.
Ive noticed that if Z is too close to the bed but not so close that the extruder skips steps, something that can happen is that the tension of the nozzle moving over the previous rows of filament can cause it to peel off the bed.
So bad adhesion can occur if Z is too high, or too low.
Your video's are giving me new hope for getting the 3d printing under the knee thanx for everything will keep on watching all your videos 👍👌👍👌
So like many others who follow you I'm a noob. I have my bed dialled in nice and sweet for PLA. 50 deg C on the bed. I don't have an an ABL system. I've only printed PLA so far. I'm contemplating doing some ABS work so the bed is going to be "hot". I'm going to assume the bed is going to expand a bit. (How much I don't know). Can I use Z-offset in Cura for example to compensate for this based on filament type and back the extruder height off automatically to match the PLA gap. I have a dial indicator so I can work out the difference in the gap between the bed at 50 deg C and 105 deg C.
From poking around in Cura I think this is possible. But I may be asking for a bit too much though of Cura 😊
Thank you so much mate :D
New to 3d printing and discovered your video after having issues with bed adhesion. I managed to work out where to find the start g-code (would have been good to add an explanation as to where to find these things :)), but i do not have the G29 code in the software (cura), yet my ender 5 plus does auto bed level at the start of every print!!!!!????. i've tried skirts (terrible), and brims (edges curling after an hour, causing print to lift). I'm not brave enough yet to attack the firmware and do a custom reset. I've no idea how to get the printer to print a skirt only to test adhesion and the z axis offset change. Any help would be much appreciated (i've tried forums, but they are pretty unresponsive).
Mick
Great vid! Z offset has been one of those things I thought I had a good understanding of but now better reinforced because I watched this. Quick question, the Ender 5 Plus has an option to turn on/off auto-leveling in the menu. Is that similar to adding/removing G29 in the gcode? Still new to 3D printing and learning all I can.
I do not have an Ender 5 plus but my guess is that this option disables the use of the bed leveling data collected by the probe in the firmware. The G29 tells the printer to collect probe data. Then during the print the probe data is added/subtracted from the z heights in the gcode to obtain an optimal height.
If you do not have a g29 in your start gcode the printing will use the data last collected. This might be our if date. This menu option probably just disables adding/subtracting the data.
I fitted a BL Touch to my Ender 3 and then a few months later I added a glass print surface, my friend was having trouble with his BL Touch so I removed mine so he could use it to see if his sensor was faulty or the code, whilst I did not have the sensor fitted I noticed my prints were just as good on the glass bed as they were with it fitted even my large surface area prints, I haven't bothered putting it back on I am saving it for a Hypercube Evolution build I am planning as I am going to use PEI bed on that printer
Ender printers do a very good job of holding level. If you have a glass print surface than the underlying surface will be very flat. The combination of these two factors makes a ABL less critical.
Nice zero tools method. If you have a few dollars to spare, I recommend a cheap digital calipers. Peel up the single layer and measure it with the calipers. Make adjustment to Z offset to get exactly the thickness specified by your slicer. I also like to set my Z offset in increments of full single steps of the Z axis step motor. This avoids having the step motor relying on micro steps, as these are less accurate than full steps.
Thanks for sharing this approach.
my guy i subscribed good details
This guy is the perfect presenter
Doc, great as always. With my CR20pro one side is too close, other is perfect. I don’t have the second G28 AFTER the G29.
Is this my issue or bed height moved?
Do not add the second G28. I have recently learned that due to a bug in Marlin this will lead in inaccurate Z positions.
Is the G29 executing? Do you see the ABL system try and measure the bed before each print? If it does that bed may just be too uneven for the ABL system. Try manually leveling the bed to get it close to perfect then the ABL should work better.
I got a lot out of this presentation. However, how do you calibrate the auto sensors position when installing it on the hot end assembly. Case in point. I had to replace the heat cartridge on my tronxy x5sa400 printer. After reassembly, my prints were terrible. I am thinking that the auto-level sensor is not positioned properly. Your thoughts.
So how does Marlin 2.0 work on 8-bit boards? Ive seen many people recommend Marlin 1.9 for 8-bit boards?
Noob and beginner here. Working with the mega zero, and in the machine settings for cura 4.5 how do I adjust the z to get the right height? I don't have a auto bed leveler, still watching the video
Hoping you can help! Unknowingly you have mentored me thru my 3d printing journey. I have come to an impass and cannot get my printer to print anymore! After spending the past month trying to figure it out, I am hoping you can put me on the right path. I have an Ender 5. I was having problems with my endstops and at at the same time, my laptop died. New motherboard. New Windows X laptop. Now my slicing software cannot find the printer (can't print via usb). Printer recognizes when I put in the micro sc card, (card inserted prompt), but will not open it (no tf prompt). Now I have a giant paperweight. I have read everything I can and watched everything I can. Tried many cables, many sd cards. Trying to update firmware, but of course, printer won't recognize the sd card. HELP!!
This may help with my new Anycube Mega X right now I can't get the bed leveled at all. Great in the corners way to low in the middle or great in the middle bit high in the corners.
Could be but you should also watch the video on the channel about fixing Ender build plate dips in the center.
czcams.com/video/y_xCtxcwDrQ/video.html
Just had to like for 1000 likes :) good video too.
ok I have a cr-10s and level my bed with the knobs on bottom of bed, once I get that done and level what is the purpose of changing the z off set numbers? Cant you just relevel bed with knobs, I do not have a auto level like the bl touch and others, did upgrade to a swiss hot end for different filaments i want to use.
If you are putting the G29 command in your pre print code, should you not be putting an M500 after it otherwise the new bed levelling settings are not saved ?
Even when using manual mesh bed leveling you need to use Z-Offset to adjust the actual distance between the nozzle and the bed.
Correct
Thank you very much for your informative videos.
Also: thank you for speaking so clear and calm.
In a lot of videos (mostly) younger dudes are speaking so fast, I need to adjust the speed of the video to 1/2 :)
I 'm interested in what kind of job you had before retirement? I guess it's something like software development?
Underrated comment. It's easy to increase speed of video on youtube and get's good result. But doing opposite sometimes gets very bad results.
at 7:45 imprecision. Wow, I've never heard anybody use that word. Good choice. (PRE not PER though) Good vids too BTW.
Can you please do a more in depth video on setting offsets with TH3D hardware?? I have a TH3D EZBoard v2 fitted with a TH3D EZABL Pro. The instructions TH3D give, are just not wanting to work for me, and the bed keeps forcefully crashing into the hot end when I home Z, no bueno. Also, my Ender 5 Plus is always wanting to home X and Y to the rear right corner of the bed (350 and 350), how can I change that to 175, or 1/2 the actual size of the bed??
I see that this is 12 months old BUT.. is there a possibility that enderv2 adjust the z axis offest throughout the print...it drops mabye a certain % every layer heigh when set other the 0.00mm
I wish Vax would get the x lerdge board on his ender 5 . It would be perfect to explain this.
Hello I have Biqu b1 and I don't have ABL. I'm running into issues with the printer cutting and rounding some sharp corners but other sharp corners it prints clean. I'm pretty sure my bed is leveled but I do think the nozzle drags on the print more than I would like. I don't wanna compensate for this by adjusting the wrong setting or the first setting I see that may be the answer or can make things worse. Can you suggest what you think it might be?
All Thunbs up for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
i just thought the z-offset referred to the amount the printer had to compensate for a higher print bed. So if the printer thought it was at 5mm high and the z-offset was -0.2mm, then the actual distance from the bed was 4.8mm. Then the printer would have to move up an additional 0.2mm to reach 5mm.
TheDr does It again ....:)
Great video. Where can I find the STL for the lead screw stabilizer?
Here you go.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3534568
@@MakeWithTech Thank you.
I have a sv05 and trying to adjust everything is the file u used available
Hello. I dont have marlin, I installed latest Ender-51.1.6BLTouchV3.1PowerLossContinueEnglish.hex, does it work the same?
What should be the z offset of snapmaker 350 A
I've got a strange one at the moment. I have an ender 3 pro and use a bltouch. I have my bed level to 0.2mm variance. However when I print I get some areas where the nozzel scrapes the surface pretty much, and some where its simply laying filament on the bed and not affixed at all. I have checked pretty much everything I can think of. My Z gantry is straight and level, my bed isn't warped or twisted, as I said my bed is level to a relatively high degree, my Extruder hotend is square and true, my bltouch offset is precise, my z offset is also perfect in most areas. I could go on, but I can't work out why it's doing it. Any ideas? Also thanks for all the great videos!!! They're very well delivered, and produced.
Do you have a G28 in your slicer begin print gcode? Have you updated your firmware to include ABL support? Is your z axis rod loose?
When you manually level you print bed with ABL off does your printer work properly?
All things to check.
@@MakeWithTech Hi DrVax and thanks for the reply, yes I'm running ABL in my firmware. My standard order of operation is, G28, G29, then I manually run a bed level mesh in octiprint, all with the bed heated at 60*. Regarding the Z rod, no it's straight and securely mounted to the stepper. I haven't tried to manually level the bed and run a print, but I will tomorrow {23:00 here in the UK :)} should I disable ABL first, I wouldn't imagine it would need to be commented out unless I ran a G29... Thanks again for the reply.
@@MakeWithTech I read your reply slightly wrong, yes my slicer has G28 in the starting code
@@twistedhairball
Just a chime in here. I was getting sort of the same sounding issues that you described.
I ended up noticing that the printer came from creality with the Anti backlash assembly installed upside down. I reversed it and haven't had the problem since.
Hope this helps.
i couldn't figure out why when I made the z more negative, the paper wouldn't slide under the nozzle. duhh. i was going the wrong way. Thanks Dr. Vax!
Hi there, perfect timing on this video! However, there is no link to the google slide deck...help?
Here you go.
docs.google.com/presentation/d/1qbiOYYqonJ06idGriNnWUZkpS_ClYCzQpl7ocJYAsHk
My mistake. I just fixed it. Sorry for the error.
If I set my z to 0 after moving the nozzle as close as possible and my cura settings are initial layer .3 and after that .12.
Wouldn’t it be better since my z offset is true 0?
The z offset calibrates the distance from your ABL probe and the print bed. If you want to set it at zero you will have to adjust the position of the probe.
Alright you people, I came up with a foolproof method for getting the perfect z-offset in (about) 4 steps. You will need a pair of Vernier Calipers or, even better, a micrometer.
0.) Make sure you don't have any z-axis binding. It is important to have a printer that is maintained well.
1.) Get the bed as level as possible (I do this with the "assistive tramming" feature in Marlin software).
2.) Get the z-offset roughly right. It doesn't have to be on point, too close is probably better than too far at this point.
3.) Now print a cylinder that has a height of 5 mm (I use a diameter of 25 mm at a layer height of 0.2 mm).
4.) Measure the thickness of the cylinder, and adjust the z-offset accordingly. For example, if you measure a thickness of 4.87 mm, change your z-offset by 0.13 mm upwards. If you measure 5.08 mm, change it 0.08 mm downwards.
5.) Adjust the flow rate of the initial layer until it is looking fine to you. (this step may be optional for you).
I found that with this method, I get my prints to be way more accurate in the z-direction, which is known to be the most tedious to get right. I also almost completely remove the elephant foot effect this way. I urge you to try this out and let me know how it works for you :)
Thanks for sharing and if it also works well for me I will make a video about it.
@@MakeWithTech Did this work for you sir?
I've been thinking, what's the point on the auto level routine if the Z-axis won't move until the layers are finished (2.5 axis). I get you map the bed, but the printer can't do anything with it.
The firmware will micro adjust the z axis based on the save probe values.
Is z offset only for auto leveling printers? I have an ender 3 max and i can get perfect walls and tops etc but my second layer seems to smash or smear filament no matter what extrusion level i print at
herb i had to redo my firmware because of failure last night. added new firmware but when i do bed level on my ender 5 pro the z will not bring my bed up for my cr touch and it causes a failure. what can i do ty
This must be specific to only certain printers as I didn't "store"/save my z-offset but it saved anyway
If my Ender has ABL do I still need G29 code? Shouldn't the printer just load my mesh automatically every time I print?
My ender 5 that i just recently put marlin on is printing double the height that itshould how can i fix this
what do you do when the z offset compensation while printing only goes in 10mm instead of 1mm or .01mm increments? i have looked everywhere and cannot figure it out.
good video as always. Too bad about the incorrect version of "to/too/two" in the slides.
Sorry as an engineer grammar has always been a challenge for me. :-)
It's not a good idea to correct someone's grammar lest setting the bar for yourself to be measured against. A sentence starts with a capital letter. It's *Good* not _good_ . 😂
Ru must be just kidding lol
@12:32 G28 disables bed leveling. So Line 11 G28, Home again actually cancels out what was done by line 10 G29. Am I right?
Hi there, can you similar toturial for ender3 v2 will be nice,thanks
The stock Ender 3 V2 does not have ABL so Z offset adjustments are not necessary. Just manually level the print bed.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks anyway i have problems with this printer, home, then run 2 lines, when goes to print is 1 m/m to high????
@@ManuelRochaSA Sounds like either a z-axis switch, cable issue, or a slicer setting. Check all of your cables that start with the latest version of Cura and a new profile.
Anyone notice that at @4:59 he says "you can adjust it with an M815 command" but picture reference he uses says "M851"?
So, no z-offset adjustment unless you have an ABL system?
Does somebody know how to reset the z axis on an ender 3 neo
I prefer a test print which is four squares that touch, three lines thick, that take up almost the whole print bed, and I turn on the skirt as well, and that way the center is printed on too.
I can't find a Z-Axis offset setting in the menu on my Ender-3 Pro .. Any suggestions ?
Nevermind .. I got it .. I added the z-axis offset plugin after I changed the visibility settings and had to set that to visible ..
Some filaments are transparent. I think you misled a lot of people telling them it should be opaque.
why doe you need to change the z offset when it is printing
I dont see the differenc3 between z offset and simply leveling the bed at all 4 corners
Z Offset is the difference between the distance sensed by your ABL probe and the actual nozzle position.
@@MakeWithTech yes, thank you. I dont have ABLso it doesnt apply to me
It still goes back down and pushes down into the print bed
Okay you sound like you know what you're doing I have an important question. It's really a prerequisite to being able to do many of the message to implementing Z offsets. I cannot communicate directly with my machine from my computer at all whenever I plug in a USB cable and train find my printer I can't even get to the point where I find my printer because what I'm seeing is the screen and the cr-10 light up as a result of plugging it in. Now the machine is turned off I know it's not supposed to light up I know it's not supposed to be getting power from that USB cable yet it is I cannot get any support through Amazon it's a big castle I don't know what to do what would you do would you replace any specific components what would you do if you were faced with this I really need to be able to do Direct Communications. And I'm not talking about setting up an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi or anyting else that's third-party I'm talking about a basic functionality of the machine do you have any insight into this?
Having the same issue with my V2, There is some driver you should use that comes on the SD card (CH340) but really no good instructions anywhere on how to use it and the manual dont say anything about the USB connection and the drivers at all, just how to print from the SD. Also the homepage for the CH340 driver including general information is all in chinese. With USB you are all on your own appearently. Someone said that u have to try all the USB ports as only one of them will work and things like that. Its clearly not plug and play. When plugged in however on my machine it also powers the LCD and the heatbreak fan spins slowly even with the machine off and appearently from what i read somewhere this is normal behaviour.
@@johnpekkala6941 thank you for this info I have tried to install the drivers from the provided Drive I also downloaded the latest and none of them will install on the USB bus do I have to go through every instance of USB to try and install them is that what you're saying?
@@ClownWhisper Yes. I have not tried it yet myself but hopefully this might do something. I have no experience whstsoever with these strange control chips. Only I know is all these printers run on some variant of Arduino hardware(that I also never have used otherwise before). Would however be really nice getting that USB port working even though I can fully operate the machine using the SD card including running some hand coded G code macros for things like jogging and bed leveling cycles and also pre heating the nozzle and bed individually.
@@johnpekkala6941 I tried it for hours today and nothing will install you can right-click on an INF file and install it that way even doing that and searching the computer for updated drivers will do nothing I am so done with this bullshit. I'm sick of buying shit and have it not work as it's intended to. I mean I can continue to 3D print until the damn card what wears out I guess but I really wanted to get it communicating so I could move to controlling things for my computer when needed. I get no support from creality they won't even return my emails
Unfortunately changing the z offset during a print does nothing for me. 😔
Wait...this isn't the Dr. Vax channel...?????
It is with a new name. Same DrVax now with a channel name of MakeWithTech.
@@MakeWithTech Ahhh! OK. I thought someone was stealing your videos.
No CC, plus, it's impossible to use a printed specimen to set your Z offset if your printer won't print because it needs the Z offset to be re-set. DUH!!
Graphic at 4:58 is wrong. the switchpoint of the probe is deeper then the nozzle. because of this, there is a "-" before the value. because of this the nozzle goes deeper when you go more in the negative value.
This actually makes no sense if you think about it if you get a perfect manual bed level you shouldn't have to even use an offset.
Well, it's been a year since you've posted this nonsense, so hopefully, in that year, you have expanded your knowledge. But just in case you haven't, and also for anyone who may be led astray by this misinformation, let me add a correction.
Bed leveling is not the same as tramming, or setting z offset. Bed leveling, as the name implies, simply makes sure the bed is the same distance from the nozzle at all points. A perfectly leveled bed can still be too far or too close to the nozzle. Even leveling the bed with a sheet of paper, or a 0.1mm shim you can still find your print is not adhering due to poor z offset. The reasons for this are many, but more or less irrelevant. After leveling your bed you must then start a print and manually adjust the Z-offset until you see the results you are looking for, just as he did in the video, and then save the settings so that you don't have to do this every single print, even though it doesn't hurt to check it every print.
This is very similar to the difference between accuracy and precision. In shooting, accuracy refers to the grouping of your shots, ie. how close each shot is to the last. Is your shot placement repeatable. This is bed leveling. Precision, on the other hand, refers to the actual location of your shot. If you aimed for bullseye, did it hit bullseye. This is Z-Offset. Just because you can shoot accurately, getting all your shots into a grouping the size of a dime, does not mean you are shooting precisely, hitting exactly where you expect to hit.
Hope this helps.
Not to be "that guy" but there are big differences between "to," "two" and "too." A "Doctor" may want to learn the difference before offering written ideas to the general public. I realize it's not my credibility at stake, however, and everyone has their own standards.
A lot of people know the difference and make the same mistake. I do it constantly. It happens.
@@MobileDecay I try not to constantly make the same mistakes when I know I've made one. Especially such a simple one that impacts one's credibility. If someone's incapable of using their native language correctly, then where else do they cut corners?
@@michaelmusgrove1357 Good for you Mr. perfection.