Thank you for this video. It is informative, but folks should know that the P0345 code is for Bank 2 which is the driver's side. My 2004 F150 FX4 (5.4L, 3V) had been giving me random misfires for some time and eventually a P0345 code. I replaced the camshaft position sensor and the misfires and code cleared up. No further problems. Don't discount the possibility that the sensor has failed just because they usually don't!
You are slightly mistaken on the pin check. Pin 45 on ECU is for Bank 1 CPS Signal and pin 44 is for Bank 2 CPS signal. As for the voltage check? the Green wire is the power wire and is bundled along with pin 58, oxy sensor, fuel press/temp sensor, cyl hd temp,and evap sensor. If any of those items are bad or shorted it will give a bad reading on CPS being tested too. Infinite ohms is open, and the lower the number shown is the most complete circuit.
Pin 45 is one side sensor pin 44 is the other side sensor the grey and red wire is signal return and the orange wire on one sensor is from the pcm the green on the other sensor is from the pcm positive I don’t know how you got your information but it’s not correct at all each sensor only has one pin on the pcm the signal return is shared with a bunch of other sensors
It could throw code/s due to a defective low battery... and It could also be a bad ripple effect from a bad diode on the alternator in particular on other vehicles ✊🏾☝🏾
I have 2014 Raptor 6.2 no engine codes , but every now and then when I come to a stop at traffic light he engine rpm revs up and then dies showing low oil pressure , is this the culprit of the problem ?
When you were testing for voltage you were on the positive side of the battery so all of that is doing is showing that you have a ground at the harness
Great video. I have a question on your test procedure. I am getting p0345, 349 during koeo test. So I tries to test the circuit and get ground on one pin of the plug and nothing on the other. No power or ground. I wasn't sure when watching you test voltage at the plug but it seems you are connected to batt pos when you test for voltage? So is it supposed to be a ground on both pins in the lug or is one pos and one neg? Thanks
Hello friend, perform the tests that you indicate in your video and in both connectors the signal from the pcm gives me 6.22 v, that indicates that it is below 10 v, but that the wiring or the current output of the pcm is wrong?
@@evanwestbrooks4049 hello friend check the manufacturer's manual and it is normal to detect the problem and it is the timing chain kit the chain was loose, change the timing chains and it returned to normal
@@carlitoxmOiga hice yo el test con la llave prendida y no me da más de 10 voltajes. Pero con la llave apagada si me da más de 10 voltajes, en el enchufe del cam position sensor. Eso es normal?
@@erickuribe9860 si es normal refiérase al manual del fabricante y es el comportamiento normal , el mayor problema de los motores 5.4 es las cadenas de tiempo y los faser , el fabricante recomienda el cambio de kit pero posiblemente puede seguir la falla presente , en ese caso se debe remplazar el motor
You had the red lead on battery positive and the black lead to the cam connector so you were getting 12 volts because you were GROUNDING through the cam sensor connector.
I have a 2012 with a p0340 code, and it has no.power, takes forever to get the engine to Rev upto 4000 rpm, and it shifts hard and almost a gutless pig to drive
I've put new Cloyes chains and tensioners and phasers along with camshaft position sensors and I'm still getting this code. Customer is super pissed because it keeps coming back after 15 miles. It will feel like a intermittent miss. When I rebuilt the engine, I sent the heads get a valve job with followers and lifters. Any ideas?
@@TestDontguessis random oil pressure dropping on the gage but no visible oil leak an indication of this? I am in no way a mechanic and trying to learn as much as I can thanks
I have a 2006 f250 same engine tho. One wire is getting 12v other is getting 6v. There are no breaks in the wire and the code actually went away after an oil change and cam sensor replacement. I read the wire reading 6v means timing chain is loose? Is this true?
Did you ever find out any info on this I have a mustang getting 12v on one side and 6 on other for both banks I just built a motor and put it in and can’t figure this out
@@keyera1378 honestly just gave up on this. I tore apart the engine to get to the timing chain. The plastic guides were completely gone. did a full timing job put it all back together and still had the same issues. cracked open the oil pan enough to get the pick up tube out, and all the plastic turned into little pieces and completely plugged up the screen for the pickup. Basically the engine wasnt getting enough oil. been about a week since ive put it all back together and havent had any engine issues or codes since
I already replaced all of the cam sensors but I get the P0346, only when I scan while driving, yet no Check Engine Light. But the error shows on my scanner, only when I scan and drive at the same time. When I scan in park the scanner shows 0 codes. My vehicle does have symptoms. I looked at the wires and they basically look new in my 2014 ford Mustang V6 3.7. I also replaced the VVT solenoid valves, changed the oil, etc. I even purchased more sensors in case I got a bad one. I sure wish someone can give me some much needed direction. Thank you.
Hi, the problem was that the wire connecting to one of the oil control valves was not properly connected. I did a few other things but it sure seems like making sure the connection was proper fixed the problem. I also used and use thicker oil, used engine cleaner within the engine, etc. But the process blown wasn't fixed until I twisted the wire and reinstalled it on the oil control valve.
Man, I'm getting all the same numbers as you but I'm still getting P0340 and the truck wants to stall all the time unless I leave the plug unplugged. What else should I check?
@@zachpyatt440 Bank 1 is Cylinder 1, which is the right (passenger) side. Whether Bank 1 is A or B I do not know because there is conflicting information. Please identify something authoritative that answers that question.
@@TestDontguess I changed the camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor. checked all the wiring. nothing helped. under load, it begins to triple. I am writing to you from Kazakhstan. did you find the reason ??? help me please
Thank you for this video. It is informative, but folks should know that the P0345 code is for Bank 2 which is the driver's side. My 2004 F150 FX4 (5.4L, 3V) had been giving me random misfires for some time and eventually a P0345 code. I replaced the camshaft position sensor and the misfires and code cleared up. No further problems. Don't discount the possibility that the sensor has failed just because they usually don't!
Ty
So I can do this diy right?
@@flightbun3311 yes
My 2008 f150 is getting P0022 and it's saying bank 2, is that still drivers side as well?
@@michaelrodriguez5722 yes, bank 2 is always the driver's side on Fords
ive been looking for a straight forward video on the harness and plug side of my sensors, thank you, i finally know where to look and how to check.
I had some work done on my 2006 and the p340 code appeared. Thanks to your video I found one of the harnesses not reinstalled. Thank you!
Awesome I’m glad the video helped you
Thanks
You are slightly mistaken on the pin check. Pin 45 on ECU is for Bank 1 CPS Signal and pin 44 is for Bank 2 CPS signal. As for the voltage check? the Green wire is the power wire and is bundled along with pin 58, oxy sensor, fuel press/temp sensor, cyl hd temp,and evap sensor. If any of those items are bad or shorted it will give a bad reading on CPS being tested too. Infinite ohms is open, and the lower the number shown is the most complete circuit.
Pin 45 is one side sensor pin 44 is the other side sensor the grey and red wire is signal return and the orange wire on one sensor is from the pcm the green on the other sensor is from the pcm positive I don’t know how you got your information but it’s not correct at all each sensor only has one pin on the pcm the signal return is shared with a bunch of other sensors
Thank you so much bro that made so much more sense this guy threw me for a loop
It could throw code/s due to a defective low battery... and It could also be a bad ripple effect from a bad diode on the alternator in particular on other vehicles ✊🏾☝🏾
I have 2014 Raptor 6.2 no engine codes , but every now and then when I come to a stop at traffic light he engine rpm revs up and then dies showing low oil pressure , is this the culprit of the problem ?
When you were testing for voltage you were on the positive side of the battery so all of that is doing is showing that you have a ground at the harness
That’s what it’s showing and also making sure you don’t have a broken wire or short to ground. Do you even understand electronics
Great video. I have a question on your test procedure. I am getting p0345, 349 during koeo test. So I tries to test the circuit and get ground on one pin of the plug and nothing on the other. No power or ground. I wasn't sure when watching you test voltage at the plug but it seems you are connected to batt pos when you test for voltage? So is it supposed to be a ground on both pins in the lug or is one pos and one neg? Thanks
Hi there. Great video!! quick question for ya. What year is this f150? Ty in advance!!
Your tests don't add up right. You used pin 44 and 45 for bank 1. Pin 44 goes to cmp2+ bank 2 and pin 45 goes to cmp1+ bank 1. Can you explain this?
Hello friend, perform the tests that you indicate in your video and in both connectors the signal from the pcm gives me 6.22 v, that indicates that it is below 10 v, but that the wiring or the current output of the pcm is wrong?
I'm having same issue. With key off I get better then 10 volts on both wires, but with key on I get 6 volts on "said" green wire.
@@evanwestbrooks4049 hello friend check the manufacturer's manual and it is normal to detect the problem and it is the timing chain kit the chain was loose, change the timing chains and it returned to normal
@@carlitoxmOiga hice yo el test con la llave prendida y no me da más de 10 voltajes. Pero con la llave apagada si me da más de 10 voltajes, en el enchufe del cam position sensor. Eso es normal?
@@erickuribe9860 si es normal refiérase al manual del fabricante y es el comportamiento normal , el mayor problema de los motores 5.4 es las cadenas de tiempo y los faser , el fabricante recomienda el cambio de kit pero posiblemente puede seguir la falla presente , en ese caso se debe remplazar el motor
@@carlitoxm Muchas gracias por la respuesta. En donde se podrá conseguir el manual de fabricante? Si no es mucha molestia. 👍
Ok so I'm getting 25 and 12 for voltage on the wire is that a problem??
You had the red lead on battery positive and the black lead to the cam connector so you were getting 12 volts because you were GROUNDING through the cam sensor connector.
Yea I wasn’t tracking on that. If he was checking voltage on the plug why didn’t he just ground out the multimeter and check the plug for voltage
Mine randomly has p0340 this morning and it would barely run and keep stalling. It has the wrench light too. Any ideas?
Pull the solenoid keep driving
Thanks for the tip Jerry..👍👍
Great video! Perfect! Thank you!
How do you find out what pin you need to check??
I'm getting a P0345 check both sensors reading mid 200 ohms. Checked plugs and reading 11.6 and 12.3. Any suggestions where to go next?
I’m getting 6.6 volts with key on and 10.4 volts with key off..crank but no start
I have the exact same problem. But mine does have voltage at the cam connectors
I have a 2005 5.4 expedition and I'm getting 11.75 volts on one and 4.5 volts on the positive wire on both cam connections
I'm getting 6.5 on one side and 11 on the other. Did you find out what was wrong with yours?
So did I…I had 11 on one side 7 on the other did you ever figure out anything
I have a 2012 with a p0340 code, and it has no.power, takes forever to get the engine to Rev upto 4000 rpm, and it shifts hard and almost a gutless pig to drive
I've put new Cloyes chains and tensioners and phasers along with camshaft position sensors and I'm still getting this code. Customer is super pissed because it keeps coming back after 15 miles. It will feel like a intermittent miss. When I rebuilt the engine, I sent the heads get a valve job with followers and lifters. Any ideas?
Sounds like you didn’t verify oil pressure before doing all this to confirm if the Camshaft journals are worn out
@@TestDontguessis random oil pressure dropping on the gage but no visible oil leak an indication of this? I am in no way a mechanic and trying to learn as much as I can thanks
What pins do u test for the drivers side? Wtf?
I have a 2006 f250 same engine tho. One wire is getting 12v other is getting 6v. There are no breaks in the wire and the code actually went away after an oil change and cam sensor replacement. I read the wire reading 6v means timing chain is loose? Is this true?
Did you ever find out any info on this I have a mustang getting 12v on one side and 6 on other for both banks I just built a motor and put it in and can’t figure this out
I'm getting the same 12V and 6V problem. Any luck figuring yours out?
@@keyera1378 honestly just gave up on this. I tore apart the engine to get to the timing chain. The plastic guides were completely gone. did a full timing job put it all back together and still had the same issues. cracked open the oil pan enough to get the pick up tube out, and all the plastic turned into little pieces and completely plugged up the screen for the pickup. Basically the engine wasnt getting enough oil. been about a week since ive put it all back together and havent had any engine issues or codes since
Good info right there
I already replaced all of the cam sensors but I get the P0346, only when I scan while driving, yet no Check Engine Light. But the error shows on my scanner, only when I scan and drive at the same time. When I scan in park the scanner shows 0 codes. My vehicle does have symptoms. I looked at the wires and they basically look new in my 2014 ford Mustang V6 3.7. I also replaced the VVT solenoid valves, changed the oil, etc. I even purchased more sensors in case I got a bad one. I sure wish someone can give me some much needed direction. Thank you.
Hello i have the same issue with the same engine , could you figure the problem out ?
Thank you
Hi, the problem was that the wire connecting to one of the oil control valves was not properly connected. I did a few other things but it sure seems like making sure the connection was proper fixed the problem. I also used and use thicker oil, used engine cleaner within the engine, etc. But the process blown wasn't fixed until I twisted the wire and reinstalled it on the oil control valve.
Man, I'm getting all the same numbers as you but I'm still getting P0340 and the truck wants to stall all the time unless I leave the plug unplugged. What else should I check?
Are your phasers good?
What if you got all of the codes mentioned in the title all at the same time?
Just happened to me, what did you end up doing?
@chipers8710 my truck had over 300k miles with a bad transmission and low oil pressure I parked it and bought a 2011. Sorry
I want to know the pin number on the bank 2 f150 2004 camp sensor please i don't find i been looking for a week all ready
2011 F-150 code p0349 camshaft positioning sensor A bank 2 trying to find the location of that sensor
This is in the driver side by the serpentine belt you can take the air conduct out of the way to handle it better
If you solve this issue can you tell me
my truck has code p0340 p0345 p0349 and it makes loud noise bank 1 that can be
If its noisy 9 out 10 times its the cam phasers
I changed already but the motor still shacking
I’m having the same issue with my F150 I replaced the sensors but motor still clicking/shaking once warmed up
@@georgesaucedo7929 my problem was the manifold leak I was changing a lot pieces
What year?????
Does anyone in here by chance know the pins for the 5.4 2v since I only have driver side sensor
Is Bank A Bank 2? Bank A = Bank 2?
Bank 1 is A, if you pop the hood and are looking at the engine that would be the left hand side. Bank 2 is B, which is the right hand side
@@zachpyatt440 Bank 1 is Cylinder 1, which is the right (passenger) side. Whether Bank 1 is A or B I do not know because there is conflicting information. Please identify something authoritative that answers that question.
shoving shit into pin holes causes pin fitment issues just FYI
Ok so what fixed the issue?
There wasn’t a issue it was made so people troubleshoot and not just get the parts cannon out
@@TestDontguess I changed the camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor. checked all the wiring. nothing helped. under load, it begins to triple. I am writing to you from Kazakhstan. did you find the reason ??? help me please
@@user-lj1ie7ym3ldid you solve it I can’t find my issue
I just can't see that sensor on my 2001 f150 5.4. I found bank 2 and changed but cannot find bank 1. Anyone know where that is??
P0340
You don't have cam phasers