CR 10 SE Review - Brute Forcing Speed (Watch Before Buying)
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- CR-10 SE: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=242179...
(Get this instead) Ender 3 V3 KE:
(Or this) Ender 3 V3 SE: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=239703...
Save Extra $10 for Ender-3 V3 SE with Code ESE10
(Or heck, even this) Bambu Lab A1: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=242041...
(Or even one of these) FlashForge Adventurer 5M: shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=105768...
Adventurer 5M Pre-order! Save an Extra $20 with Code SAD5 (or NBR5P for the pro model)
The links in this video description are affiliate links. I may earn a commission based on sales through these links. Creality, Bambu Lab, and many other 3D Printer manufacturers mentioned in this video have sent machines to me for review free of charge and/or sponsored videos on my channel.
My Store: nathansellsrobots.com
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Podcast: www.perfectfirstlayer.com
0:00 Comparison to Ender 3 S1 Pro
7:52 Setup and Design Overview
15:16 Slicing With Creality Print
22:45 Fan Noise
23:48 Print Timelapse
24:53 Print Quality
28:49 Conclusion
35:37 What Should You Buy Instead? - Věda a technologie
They're now selling the CR-10 SE at Microcenter for $289. I was planning on getting the KE, but decided $30 was worth giving it a shot. So far not disappointed.
Was it loud??
I am looking for a new printer and am in the same boat... the CR-10 SE is down to $269 and 10% off that if you use Microcenter's card. The KE is $229 + 10% off for using the microcenter card. you still loving the CR-10 SE? @BenKonosky @NathanBuildsRobots. Leaning towards the CR-10 SE as it seems to be the more "pro" model unit, but the reviews on the KE seem pretty solid too. I am still on a Ender3 V1 and just looking for something more plug and play. Tired of leveling beds and monkeying with settings to get the right quality.
@@GASilverHunter I'm still using it, there's now a profile for it in Orcaslicer. It's not a bad printer.
Right now they are $359 and the value is absolutely there. The beefier y axis motor, linear rails, and larger (yes louder) part cooling makes all the difference. This is actually the printer I have been waiting for. It has all the upgrades I do to all my enders in my print farm for reliability and function. When you print over 5k hours per machine like I do you will want linear rails more for the longevity than the performance. I will happily pay $150 extra to not have to deal with installing the upgrades and just have a printer I can open the box and be running in less than 30 minutes. This is a winner IMO.
just picked one up for $321..
@scottmasa7774 It's a great printer. Only thing pissing me off is I can't figure how to use cura or orca slicer with it. Keeps throwing an error if I try. I have to look at the gcode. Creality slicer suuuuucks.
@@MoeReefsI assume just use the USB stick? But agree, looked at Orca and was put off by the not so easy wifi connection.
I love those reviews without any sort of sugar coating. Let's be honest... All printers have some flaws, weak points or challenges. You are helping us choosing what we're willing to deal with 👌
Creality: "Everybody's making Ender 3 clones - what if we did that?"
They’re all Prusa Mendel RepRap based
@@_..-.._..-.._ 'tis a joke 😄
A lot of times those bad layer lines are not due to the printer itself but to the spool holder. When I replaced my bowden enders with direct drive (and klipper) it was almost a necessity to find spool holders with bearings that roll super smoothly. The tugging on the direct drive extruder can cause a significant lift on the layer with non bearing spool holders. This is a good place to look if you have calibrated flow and still see the issue.
Two little things. 1- I appreciated when a reviewer print the benchy that the manufacturer send on the usb card /stick. That gives us an opinion of how the machine is supposed to perform as per the manufacturer standards. 2- if you happened to review the (hold my breath) Ender 3 V3 KE... a comparaison with the Elegoo Neptune 4 would be helpful to make a buying decision. Love your work.
Thank you, if/when I get the V3 KE I'll definitely put it through its paces.
Drinking game.
Take a drink every time Nathan says “Ender”.
Make sure you have a designated driver to take you to the hospital afterwards to have your stomach pumped
since the build volume isnt 300x300x400 it doesnt even count as a cr10
this is what i said on a reddit post where creality was asking for input and in broken english essentially they said “we hear your point” since i went in on how the printers should just be named by size or machine instead of them all having different names and sizings
Creality Ended 5 Plus 350x350x400 beds get smaller
Agree - My heavily modded original CR-10 is still quietly, happily and reliably printing PLA and PETG. That 300 x 300 bed seems to cover a majority of my larger printing needs. I've been looking at the K1 max or others around that bed size (at least 300 x 300) as (a) potential replacement(s) but they have to mature a bit before I retire my trusty old CR-10.
Good idea
Yeah it really isn't a CR-10. Its a linear rail mod Ender 3 S1 Pro.
I haven’t had the pleasure of playing with the CR 10 SE, but I do have two V3 SE printers that were quite loud in my opinion. I found that putting a 4010 hot end fan and 5015 part cooling made it much quieter and performs beautifully
Nice, I haven't got to modding my Ender3 V3s yet, but its something I need to get around to doing
Thanks for the info. I am holding out till I see your review of the Neptune 3 Max.
I've got the V3 SE and absolutely love it, got klipper installed and it runs like a dream, pressure advance and input shaping really let you do higher speeds on larger prints, smaller prints however need more cooling, I think with a few mods on the SE it might be closer to the KE. With the price difference being so small however I don't think many people will go down this route.
Was thinking of doing exactly that but then saw that the price difference just doesn't make it worthwhile. Now I'm thinking between V3 KE and CR-10 SE
great review, for you wich one is better, the Ender 3 V3 KE or k1?
Creality's Chaotic Evil naming scheme makes me really appreciate Elegoo's FDM naming scheme... got a few variants in their Neptune series, but you usually have a rough idea of where they fall. With Creality's FDM printers, though? Not a chance unless you're really invested in that ecosystem already.
On that note, been running my Neptune 4 for a few weeks now and pleased as a pig-in-mud with it. POM wheels are fine, Klipper with Fluidd is great and getting some great prints out of the thing. Getting away from a glass bed on the Ender 3v2 and onto a flexible PEI sheet is also night and day. And now there's a Neptune 4 Plus coming? Hoping to see some linear rail action on those Neptune FDM printers :)
Neptunes are very low-cost machines. Linear rails might be a thing if they come out with a Neptune 4 Pro Max? Now it's starting to sound like an iphone.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Following Elegoo's naming scheme that'd be just the Neptune 4 Max, I think :)
But yes, would love to see linear rails on those big format printers. At that point you're not as cost-sensitive, anyway.
Got some idea of how many $$ the addition of linear rails cost over metal rails like on the Neptune 4 Pro? If metal rails are worth ~$30 over POM wheels, perhaps linear rails are a $100-150 premium over cheap POM wheels?
@@MayaPosch I have this Neptune 4 in my sight as my next addition 😏
@@NathanBuildsRobots Have you seen any tests comparing SG15 rails to linear rails? The Kobra 2 Max is a better deal in my opinion, their Kobra 2 Max is the same specs as the Kobra 2 Pro other than size.
The Neptune 4 Plus and Max went on sale at the Elegoo site on 23SEP23. I bought a Neptune 4 Pro (steel rollers on steel rail) and I'm waiting on the Neptune 4 Pro Max (420x420x480 with all steel motion control). I agree that acetyl V rollers work well on smaller and slower printers. I ran an SV01 very heavily for the past two years without even adjusting the rollers, but I'm concerned that a bed that's 4X as heavy that's moving twice as fast will cause the acetyl rollers to deform under load (print quality issues) and probably wear faster (reliability issues). I prefer all steel motion control on a large fast printer.
It took three weeks for my Neptune 4 Pro to arrive, and by then I was busy so it mostly sat for another week, but it's now assembled and on the WiFi network. I've been running it quite a bit the last two days and I'm loving it. The added speed is nice but I don't run it that fast. I bought the printer for better print quality and Klipper control convenience and it has not disappointed. Klipper via WiFi is great for uploading and printing a file. No more fiddling with microSD cards, upside down, under the Y axis.
I looked at the v2 neo before settling on the s1 in february as a much more upgraded platform to work from, im happy with it now i use the mriscoc firmware as it makes leveling a breeze.
This is what pisses me off about creality as instead of making one printer better and making modules/packages/kits for it to upgrade it they just come out with a new model with one or two changes, the linear rail is nice, the touch screen is bad.
Think i;ll stick to modding the absoloute tits off of my s1 until i kill it or get bored then buy into resin printers and eventually get a corexy, brilliant video as always Nathan, keep em coming bro.
So why the heck do they make use of the cr-touch? Why isn't the load cell enough? Any theories?
Also, might be worth to investigate the hyper PLA filaments from creality. I did just a couple of small prints with the hyper pla white, left the printer alone for a couple of weeks, then went back to it and the entire printer had a white smudgy dust all over it that comes off easily with just a plain rag.
This may mean that the hyper series filament may release way more VoCs.
Thanks for not have annoying music. I just bought a CR-10 SE. It's incredibly fast.
The review is fair, but only the out of the box experience is tested. The print quality can be improved like others are saying. Maybe the firmware wasn't so good, just like when they released the K1.
The CR10-SE has better hardware the Ender V3 KE version.
So it would be great to see a new review with a deep dive to improve the printing with the CR10-SE.
so impressed with the hardware i bought two. Also don't forget if you want you can add their nebula camera to get AI assistance and this model can also use the LIDAR module too. It attaches next to the BT on tool head. On your noise whining, NO it doesn't need smaller fans. You want fast and quality you have to have cooling, period. The tool head has a 1200rpm blower, it is NOT a typcial baby fan. This is so you can print those 19min or better benchy. In reality it isn't that loud and is almost silent compared to a K1. Just put a creality enclosure over it and your ears will be happy.
For PLA is use 2.5 for 1st layer, 210C and 60C for the bed. To fine tune stringing, work with temperature first. Also it does do PA and Flow out of the box you need to enable in the Slicer. CrealityPrint has all of the calibration tools in a drop down to get the best prints. Also your note on value, wrong and the models are not same. On price, my CR-10 SE I got $289 each and the KE is at $260. CR-10 SE is the king of prints out of this lineup.
You really got me at the beginning. I thought maybe the printer on the left was something like a Elegoo Neptune 4 because it looked pretty similar.
Yeah I am too familiar with all of these products to not notice the similarities 🥸
Great vid and observations. The ender 3 bed size is optimal for "everyday" prints and then the (real) CR-10 300 x 300 really is a good "up-size" and covers most larger prints for me. After that you move to "gargantuan" printers. I have a heavily modded Chiron (400 x 400) with a .8 nozzle on a wheeled cart that spends more time in the storage room than printing but when I need it, I need it and would not be without it. I've been watching the Comgrow T500 and would like to see a review from you. If it looks reasonable, I may wait awhile until I can get a used or refurb as an upgrade from the Chiron for mainly the larger bed.
I'm sorry for asking but, can you please list all the mods, if you can, you put on the Chiron? I have one aswell and i really want to mod it to make it better and more reliable. I also have a Creality Sonic Pad to Klipperise the Chiron but first i want to mod it.
I can see that you've made the same cable management mistake that I've made at first. You should put the cable to the toolhead in those two little hooks on top of the adapter, not that big one at the bottom.
On my Ender 5 Plus machines I had to change out the wheel that hits the homing switch about every 12 month has it causes a line in the print every rotation, I ended up printing mud guards (fenders) for them, I lose a couple of millimetres print space but rather that than spoil a print and have to change the wheel
I have considered linear rails but I cant afford the downtime as they are production machines, I have a third machine still boxed as a contingency machine so I think I will build that and take one at a time out for Mercury conversion.
That’s too funny. Damaging the wheel with a limit switch
I bought one of these Ender 3, I mean little CR-10 SEs and ended up rooting it. After rooting it and using it for a while I really like this Ender I mean little CR-10 SE. After you use the printer a while the part cooling fan does quite down a bit I believe.
Looking at Elegoo variants, but they dont seem to have a 0,6 noozle. And I use that on both my printers as I print many small functional parts. So prabably E3V3KE ( sounds like a Star Wars droide )
Hello! I want to replace my ender 3 v2 Neo with ender 3 v3 Se or Ke maybe.. Someone else said cr-10 se or S1 pro are better. Any recommendations on which sould i buy?
The linear rail looks good. I bet the CR 10 SE is capable of better print quality with some tweaks. If so, shame on Creality for shipping it as soon as it works instead of waiting until it works well. Maybe they were busy tweaking their flagship K1 series, although particularly with PETG, I'm a fan of upgraded Klipper bed slingers.
I like the idea of larger part cooling fans on the print head instead of a curtain fan, even though it increases mass and that lowers X acceleration. Two larger (quieter) fans on the print head would be good.
I'm late to Klipper but I'm loving it. It's a game changer. I love the Fluidd web based interface for uploading prints and managing/monitoring the 3D printer. I can't see going back to Marlin, even with input shaping.
It would be great if loading filament would offer the option to perform a simple pressure advance calibration, or just have it as a separate utility on the printer. Print 20 stripes at different pressure advance settings, or maybe 20 in X and 20 in Y, and allow the user to select the best. I'm finding on faster printers that pressure advance changes with different filament types and it seems there is only one place in the config file for that parameter? Ditto for Klipper's extruder rotation calibration (volumetric extrusion coefficient). It'd be great if the printer walked us through a simple calibration to prevent under/over extrusion.
I love that you are the best bad shill.
nowadays in my country prices are Ender 3 V3 KE == CR10Se and elegoo neptune 4 pro is 100usd cheeper. I will recommend elegoo neptune 4 pro to my friend to get introduced with the hobby. is it a good call ? cr10se vs neptune 4 pro
This CR10 can we able to print dual colour? I can see 2 filament holder on top but couldn't find anything mention for dual colour print ? Thanks
What’s the point of buying this over the KE? It looks like the only differences are the LED light and an aesthetically different design. Aren’t these like $100 more than the KE though?
I just bought this printer on sale and paid $250. For this price, i'm very happy and trusting that i make a good deal!
I had to return my ke, caught an amzn sale last night for $340 on this one. Pretty good value.
I want to get the flsun v400, but my kids wanted to stick with this platform. My kids do a lot of printing.
I am not a fan of the bed leveling process. Takes a while….
@@chevy4x466 With de CR-10 SE, you'll never touch on bed leveling. The thing is the real meaning of plug and play. When i first use mine, it auto calibrate itself on the first use, and never again... and every single one of more than 50 prints, ALL of then came out with perfect first layer.
I continue to pop error codes directly out of the box. I was able to print the test boat just fine. After two small test prints off of thingiverse, I can't print anything else. I get "nozzle heating not as expected" and "Key:3000 unknown exception"
I've had this model for two weeks. It will pass the self tests, but continues to pop the Key:3000 nozzle heating not as expected"
This is my first printer and I'm at a loss. The creality website has 4 error codes, and nothing related to this issue.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
My guess is that the load cell is more accurate but as a result it requires more processing power than the machine has to do the bed level mesh properly. They could also have some worries about the brass nozzle being damaged by it?
or the plate. KAMP has "feathering" that you can install into real klipper to fix this, but basically, if the nozzle always pushes against the same part of the bed surface, your bed coating will eventually wear out in those little points.
I think I figured it out:
To do loadcell-based ABL, you have to do a 3-5 minute nozzle priming, wiping, and cooling procedure. By relying on the CR-touch for everyday printing, you are eliminating that 5 mins of setup for every print, since you can just do Z-homing instantly instead of having to wait for the nozzle cleaning operation. It really speeds things up actually, so I'm going to go ahead and call this a smart move. Wish they were better at explaining, and telling the story of their design, because there is som good decision making at play (as well as some bad decision making)
So would you recommend the CR 10 SE at $380 in terms of print quality or should we go with the Ender line for $180? Is the print quality the same on the Ender line?
It has slightly worse quality than the Enders from what I've seen, which is a shocker. Not sure what is. causing it, maybe some low tolerance linear rails? In any case, in its current state, the Ender series and Neptune series present better value
Hello, I have an old anet a8 printer. In general, I made all the settings and it works fine. But I want to buy a more up-to-date printer now. Based on your experience, I am stuck between these 2 models.
1-)Artillery sidewinder x2
2-) Creality CR-10 SE
Which of these two do you think I should prefer?
Print quality is more important for me. I will mainly print engineering products.
I am undecided about which one I should choose between these two. Sound is not a big problem for me.
My priority is print quality
Apart from these, I am open to the models you can suggest ?
Check out this video, I go over my reccomendations:
czcams.com/video/92hnAPy1pcg/video.htmlsi=Nd_OCV75bEicwIgj
The artillery X2 is a great printer but its a little out of date now.
The CR-10 SE is a little expensive when you can get the Ender 3 V3 KE for less money
The reason for the strange naming is so they can trick people into buying it by thinking it is bigger. The size is only mentioned right at the end of the advert in small print.
Any time you have multiple items it’s going to give you artifacts from the layer time changing constantly
The first thing to do on it (or I guess all printers) is to balance the fans using small pieces of electrical tape.
My printer was much quieter and had way less vibration afterwards.
2nd step would be to root it. Creality crippled it by making it too automated.
Do you know when the ender 3 V3 KE will be released? Im guessing all the reviewers have them right now and are working on their reivews. thanks!
Supposedly, mid-October. It was mentioned in one of the live streams. I just got my CR-10 SE. It needs some fine tuning, but it is doing a great job.
@@mgarza5157 the for the reply!
Why do you print 4 things at the same time? You make stringing, more retraction and there's no way to check individual times: how long does it take for a benchy?
Also why to you measure noise on the first layer? The part fan only kicks in later...
A good printer should not care how many parts are being printed at a time. Stay tuned for the PRUSA MK4 review I'm working on. Same print test, but zero issues with consistency/stringing when switching between parts.
I measure on first layer and with part cooling fan on, so you get an idea of what sound levels are like at various settings/different times of the print. Sometimes I turn the fan off for large prints that don't have many overhangs, or when doing prints out of PETG or other higher temp filaments. This makes parts stronger, and reduces fan noise.
@@NathanBuildsRobots A benchmark is a known quantity that is run on different platforms to compare result, if you change how it is run by printing 4 at the time what's the point of it?
People want to know how much time it takes to print ONE benchy. The overhangs bench is supposed to work if the time to deploy a layer is the same as other maschine, if you print 4 things it take much more time.
You can't print fast without cooling the material, it is the same error you did in on other video about volcanos and big nozzles.
This is a great review. I am pondering replacing my CR-6 SE with this one. I may very well happen.
being all at the same price here in brasil, should I get a cr10se, a ender v3 KE or an elegoo neptune 4 pro? Which one prints better and more reliably?
Also, is the Ender 3 v3 ke the most silent one?
This should be called the ender 3 CR. This same printer but large format 300 x 300 should be offered as the CR-10 V4 or whatever revision they were on. Price it well below the large format core xy machines and you would actually have something filling a gap in the market.
I noticed that a lot of printers went from bed levelling wheels to spacers and the trend seems to be going back to using wheels which is strange
Why doesn't it have dual nozzles or dual extruders it's not $200 so why doesn't it have dual extruders if has it it'll be more reliable and it will be a better option than the ender 3 V3KE can you ask the company to make can you add another extruder to make multicolor
Cr touch is a good choice if you have a glassbed (yes, i still use one)
14:55 Using the Load cell is detrimental because to properly run a mesh, the nozzle needs to be hot. Also consider the implications of touching off glass, or taking a piece of hot brass and touching it to a piece of steel thousands of times. (How does the saying go? "Even a tiny woodpecker can take down a mighty oak, one peck at a time") Yes, it could deform the nozzle opening.
It’s not a glass bed. Load cell is the best way, at least the AnkerMake way, it’s slower and requires a hot bed and hot nozzle, but the accuracy is perfect.
The benchy included on the memory stick prints flawlessly in 19 minutes.
Arw you plannning to review latest Qidi printers? These are real competition to Bambu Labs - if not better.
Better in features and size. But build quality is Meh. Very plasticky and bulky.
Not everything what is shiny is the best :) I agree it does not have the slick shape of Bambu printers but quality of the prints and heating chamber is amazing. And for functional prints and various materials, it is working perfect.
The belt path on the X-axis seems completely wrong, belts should be parallel, I guess the belt tension will be different when the carriage is at the sides and in the middle
True, the belt tension will change. Not sure how much of a difference it will make to print quality, but not good to have variation like that.
What about the Prusa Mk4 (or mini) as they both have fast (600mm/s) printing
I have the Mk4 - it's printing right now. The print quality difference is night and day. Is it worth the extra 2X MSRP?
It depends on who you are. But honestly I'd get the Ender 3 V3 KE instead of this thing because it has the same feature set but probably better print quality and lower price. Might have a slightly lower top speed.
Overall Nice Video Nathan, Even though I gave you abit of Dig at lol. I agree though the Ender 3 V3-KE is the better option.
Hahahaha The funny thing is I just returned my Ender 3 s1 pro becuase nothing would stick to the bed and bought this one haha. Did u have any problems with adhesion on this printer?
Not yet, this one has loadcell based bed leveling, which all the best printers use now. It’s a lot more reliable at producing 1st layers
Good to know!! Thanks for the reply!@@NathanBuildsRobots
So how would you name this printer if you had to choose? Ender 3 S1 KE?
The poop poop 9000
The KE has been trending at 299 and the cr-10 gets to $375 I wouldn’t even consider the KE for $80 less. The rails alone are worth it.
As far as I can tell, they haven’t released the source code for the K1 as they only posted useless binaries for their major modifications to Klipper. We need the actual code to be able to use it and we already those anyway. So, we aren’t any further ahead besides easier root access.
Oh that keyboard was horrendous on my cr-10 Se I got a couple days ago. They really have to fix that issue cause typing in my WiFi password was a nightmare. Everything else on this machine was a dream, other than maybe that there are no printer profiles yet in orca or cura slicer…
The problem is our brains are wired to expect certain keys to be in certain places when you see QWERTY
If it was just ABC that would work too. But it was a weird combo.
24:25 Is this the official timelapse tune? Aurora Tech uses it too :)
Free to use CZcams Music :)
AnkerMake has the best auto-leveling IMO. It heats the bed and nozzle and touches the actual nozzle to the bed gently and measures the height. All the other methods are terrible, Prusa has their over-engineered pinda and super-pinda which are garbage. CR-touch is also terrible, what if your nozzles are slightly different lengths and a cold heat bed is not going to measure correctly. Just use the ACTUAL NOZZLE, that’s the most accurate method.
Couldn't agree more about silk materials lol
Will u be reviewing the new Elagoo printers
Not yet, they should be decent though
Hey Nathan, thank you so much for your great overviews! Would you be so kind to answer on my question please 🙏🏻
What would your choice: two Ender 3 KE or one BambuLab P1P? I’m looking for a small farm, and on the paper two Enders would be more productive. Am I right?
Yes, the 2 printers should be more productive than a single slightly faster printer.
I’d cross shop the KEs with the new A1 rather than the P1P.
Tbh the p1p is not a fully fleshed product. You miss out on the benefits of the enclosure but are stuck with the higher cost of a Corexy machine.
Only problem is the A1 will likely force you to buy an AMS Lite with it when it launches tomorrow, so it’ll be 2x the cost of 1 KE and you’re stuck with the same issue of 2-1 cost.
Thank you 👍🏻@@NathanBuildsRobots
The Ender 3 V3 KE even has linear rails on the X axis so I really don't understand why this one exists...
Yeah, 100%
Ender 3 V3 KE makes a heck of a lot more sense.
I've seen conflicting reports. I've heard this is like a boxless K1, both faster and higher quality than the KE. I got the KE and the quality is a bit wanting and Creality's default settings don't seem to offer the speed under the hood.
I'm hoping to find a good KE support forum because I honestly had higher hopes.
A question what is the most important aspect of a 3d printer?
Is it speed?
Quality?
Or... Quality control and support?
and no you can't respond, "all" or "depends".
price
Value
I would like Creality to make an Ender 3v3 ST for "silent" 😅
Is the filament runout sensor floating around up there?
Yes
Ok but tell me now cr-10 se is for 260 euro and ender 3 V3 ke is for 210 euro its worth to take cr-10 se ? @nathan build robots
i'm also wondering the same.. did you find out which one is better?
Microcenter has the CR-10SE for 286USD 20 more from the KE
Im not even gonna buy one of these i just like the way you review these things lol.
Yeah I like to give them a fair trial before throwing them off a balcony.
Bought my cr-10 se for $289 at microcenter. It works great compared to my broken ender 3 v2
WHY is this a CR-10? With that Build Volume? Why release This AND the New Enders 3's? They have close to the same build volume? It should have been 300x300x400 like all the other reg CR-10. GREAT REVIEW!
Thank you Alberto. I'm glad you agree. It is a very confusing product. Creality needs to be OK with scrapping some ideas and focusing energy into a solid lineup of must-have printers. Ender 3 V3 SE definitely stands out, and K1 is a good start. But they need more innovation and quality engineering.
$289 at MicroCenter. I don't think you can beat this printer's performance at that price point. Oddly Nathan remarks that it might print better at slower speeds, and he has complete control of that.
Now after the bambu a1, I am waiting on a Ender 2 Pro SE - KE - Other "E"
can creality print make tree supports?
I first thought it is kinda good premium printer in somewhat reasonable price, but I discovered flashforge 5M non pro version is only $399.. man this price competition.. this is hilarious
5M is $379 with preorder discount code… I forget what the code is but it’s in my video description for that review.
begun, the clone wars have
great vid. i'm recommending some 3d printers for my friend and this really helped. Dont want him to make the same mistake as i did with the ender 3 s1 pro...
The market has really changed in the last year
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah companies like bambulab has really encouraged companies to make cheaper machines with more features and higher print speeds. It'a amazing how so much can change within only a few months
He should get the v3 ke
Soooo what’s up with the ender 3v3 LOL
It had hype and was supoosed to be released before the A1 mini and now there is literally nothing about it online
Yeah the Ender 3 V3 doesn’t make a whole lot of sense. Their lineup of Enders, the only ones that make sense IMO are the v3 KE AND SE
@@NathanBuildsRobots I agree but still
Where even is it ? Lol it was supposed to be released on the 14th if I recall and there is literally no content on it online
I thought that was the KE? Or did they intend to launch a third version
@@xLaserwalker yea the one with the k1 tool head the COREXZ
Called just the ender 3v3
I just had to return my k1 max after a month of use I had a lot of issues I need a new printer was thinking Elagoo what do u think
Elegoo makes nice stuff
Creality's naming is horrendous. An airgapped network is a good idea on these.
The print quality leaves a lot to be desired. The extrusion is so inconsistent. It doesn't look like a periodic problem caused by eccentricity of the extruder gears.
Stay tuned for my next review of the CR Ender 12 V9 SE K3 M4 Neo Pro Max 2 S5
@@NathanBuildsRobots I had to read that a couple times to realize you're joking. That's mildly horrifying.
(At least I hope you are. With Creality it's hard to tell)
Great review, tho using the same music during time lapse as Aurora Tech is a little lazy
You say that like I study her vids and copy them
@@NathanBuildsRobots just sayin' ( their channel) 🤙
Thanks for the review, I was thinking of purchasing this printer, Time to look elsewhere
Is it really a new printer though
Yes, I guess its more of a refresh than a new design. But all the electronics are new. IDK why they waste so much time redesigning their PCBs.
Auroratech is going to kick your ass for using that Timelapse music 😂
Lol, yeah we use a lot of the same tunes. I also found the VEZ intro music that I can use (it’s all copyright free music)
After all these years and MULTIPLE printer models, I’m surprised that Creality hasn’t released their own version of multi color printer or AMS system. I remember CR-X Dual Color but that is all I remember. I might have missed a release.
So Nathan, what is your favorite printer that you’ve reviewed to date? No price point limitation.
I always consider price when making reccomendations. But if price is no limit... that's a tough one.
My favorite/most reliable printers I have used to date was a pair of PRUSA MK3S printers at my last job. I cranked out so many parts on those things.
I will also say Bambu Lab printers are great, my P1Ps have had the best print quality at speed of any of the printers on the market, but I don't like their emphasis on cloud usage, and their approach to intellectual property and customer support.
I really like my modded Ender 3s and printers from Artillery as well.
I will make a longer video on this topic at some point because it is interesting how different these companies are.
@@NathanBuildsRobots cool. Ever heard anything about why no AMS/MMU from Creality. Seems they’ve jumped on every other aspect of 3D printing.
Ender 3 v3 ke review
How can I send Gcode commands to this printer?
I guess send it as a gcode file and execute it? I wish creality used stock klipper so you could have the console in the Fluidd interface.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks. But how to do send it as a gcode file?
@NathanBuildsRobots so you mean, write it in notepad, save as a gcode file, open it in Creality-Print and send to print?
i hope you get a ender 3 v3 ke to review
Same, I'm curious if its actually good. Since its based on the same platform as the SE I assume it will be very good.
But you never know, Creality has a way of messing things up in creative ways.
I’m amazed how obsessed people are with noise? I can’t even begin to understand why that matters? Are ALL FDM hobbyists in apartments?!?😂 it’s a machine! It makes noise!
Ender 3 v3 ke unboxing
I own a CR-10 V3 and this is not a CR-10!
- Naming makes no sense
- Pricing makes no sense
- Print quality looks awful, I don't even understand whats going on here.
Creality and “rigorous engineering” are mutually exclusive.
What's not to love about yet another Klipper bedslinger machine? The naming is confusing, for sure. CR 10s were always bigger than the 3 series. Other than that, if you don't like it out of the box, mod it to your heart's content, as usual.
Im sure its confusing and annoying for some, but as a guy that strictly buys these machines opportunistically used, its really not an issue lol.
i wish ender would simplify their name scheme or not have a million different models on amazon. very confusing.
1000% agree
Honestly you Really do Complain Alot. Its a Fan it Works it cant generate the same airflow as a 120mm PC fan so the only way is high rpm mini fans that make alot of noise just like the Bambu & the K1. I think you might have Noise OCD issues lol
every 10 decibels is a 10 times increase in volume, 2 decibels is a 3 times increase.
Wait a minute... That's the same timelapse background music as Aurora Tech lol
We all use the same no copyright music library provided by CZcams
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah I know, but it's extra funny when you're also using it in a 3d printing timelapse. Make a parody of Auroa Tech!! Nathan Tech!!
So my Toyota has 4 wheels and a Porsche has 4 wheels so it's almost the same thing.😬
I love your saltiness
I'm the saltiest. Just ask anyone
23:50 kuji rolls