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The Weathered Locomotive: Easy Pro Paint Fade Tip
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2020
- This clip demonstrates how easy it is to fade any color on a scale model with a traditional paint brush and water based paint. Materials used: Tamiya Flat Base X-21, Vallejo Model Air Burnt Umber #71.040 (wash), Paint Brush: Princeton Select Round Blender #6. Thinner: Water and/or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to thin.
Intro Music by: Jesse Gallagher--Divine Life Society.
The Art of Weathering is best understood as many layers (glazes), and mediums, coupled with reactionary effects by way of trial and error through deliberate risk.
I deeply appreciate the encouraging and enabling atmosphere of these videos. Beside this I learn a lot for free and l am soooo looking forward to try things out, play around, make mistakes and have some fun with the models. Thanks a lot!
O.K. You are welcome! czcams.com/video/4sEkCbcHd8Q/video.html
@@boomerdiorama Yes, thanks for the link. Already watched it diligently.
Really good technique. Thanks for sharing with us!
My pleasure!
I feel like I found the William Alexander and Bob Ross of weathering...wonderful. Thank you.
Thank you. It is just another method to help get the weathering thing going. ;-)
Well yes, but you make the point in your videos that we students need to develop our own approach and toolbox, which I was beginning to conclude on my own because of all the different techniques. That is very valuable to know and goes beyond technique.@@boomerdiorama
Brilliant! This is exactly what I needed!
The weathered paint mule. I learned a lot from painting this locomotive six times . . .lol. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama 'practice makes perfect '!
Quick question: have you ever tried this method on chrome parts to make them look weathered? If not, do you think it would work?
It's always nice to find a simple straightforward solution versus paying for specialty products. Thank you!
Acrylic paint weathering is a bit of a learning curve, but once mastered is awesome indeed. Furthermore, the versatility of acrylics is second to none. You can pour oil and lacquer paints over acrylic and it is impervious to it. One of the best methods to weathering in my opinion.
Love this tutorial. You really took away the intimidation aspect(for me anyway) about fading paint effects. Thanks, Boomer!
Once you get into it a bit it starts to produce fantastic results. Cheers.
Very cool‼️👍👍
Thank you. It sort of became a paint mule . . . lol.😉
Mr. Boomer. Been watching your since you were at about 250 subs and I just rewatched this video. I hadn't noticed how much you've changed, referring to your CZcams presence only. Almost like from humble beginnings to sure and confident presenter. Gonna try this technique on my next custom rolling stock endeavor. As always, thanks for the great tips! Matt
Hey Matt! Yes indeed, the channel has grown with me along with it. I remember you! I hope all is well. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Excellent tip. Thanks for the heads up over a product, as you well say, that goes unnoticed.
You bet!
I have never seen this before. Those models look amazing! I am going to the model shop as soon as I can to get that medium and try it myself. Thanks for sharing Boomer!
Make sure you try it on a cheap model first . . . Lol. Cheers.
Thanks
Thank you! You can see the latest pics of this locomotive in the "Community" tab accessed from the "Boomer Diorama" Home page. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Just gave this technique a try...amazed by the results! Thanks, Boomer - yet again!
I'm always thrilled when someone adds to the skill-set, they already have, another possible method to advance their skills. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
Wow. Thanks. I have done some awefull things with that stuff and given up. Im gonna try again right now. Subbd too.
Thanks for the sub!
Yep,the trick is to layer, and dont be afraid to try. The results sometimes may surprise you. I experiment with different methods all the time with various results!
I agree. It`s actually fun for the most part. The challenge is: Will you now attempt this on your brand new Athearn Genesis Locomotive . . . Lol.
Actually 3 Athearn Genesis to do lol
This was very helpful ! Thanks once again. :-) I made the mistake of trying to spray this with my airbrush on one of my wagons and ended up with hailstones on it and couldn't understand why. Now I think I get the picture.
It's best to apply with a brush. Then when it turns "chalky" white, brush it away leaving the flat textured surface. Then you can build on this layer with "thin" water based colors. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama The guys at the model shop i purchased it from didn't tell me that, so thanks once again.
@@herrkiwi3110 I have never met a hobby shop owner or employee who even knows what it is for, much less, even use it.
Great tutorial, thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I will have to try this out. I never thought of brushing on X-21...I've only sprayed it and it didn't cover out too great. I'm also thinking -- like you mentioned -- about mixing it with a different colour and seeing how that works. Rust, dark brown, or dust colours would all be able to produce different effects. Thank you!
The Tamiya "Base Flat" is misunderstood in Western Culture. The paint comes from Japan. Japanese modelers take a different approach to painting a model than we do. They understand the art of glazes, etc. Cheers.
What was the mix ratio when you sprayed it?
@@ABB8696-k4m I don`t tend to spray it.
@@boomerdiorama thanks.
Started my first model railroad (it’s On30 narrow gauge) about two years ago during Covid lockdown. I’m UK based but this layout is south-western USA mining themed. Your YT videos have been immensely helpful.
I’ve just started to weather a wooden body boxcab crew speeder - I wanted to fade the paintwork down using your Tamiya X-21 and 99% IPA technique. Have just applied one coat and then brushed it off with a stiff bristle brush. It’s looking good already although it needs a bit more removing.
When it’s finished, do I need to coat the bodywork with anything only im loathed to use any Matt varnish type of coating if I can avoid it but do I actually need any protection?
The Tamiya X-21 is just one method you can apply to your weathering application as you evolve your style. You have to really brush it down. I like a little residue (or powder on larger scales) because it soaks up rust washes and paint, etc. for cool effects.
I like to encourage a little bit of everything until you settle down with what you feel comfortable with moving forward with your skill set. I don't always flat coat or varnish a finish if I like it the way it is, because with Tamiya paints you don't really need to.
Flat or clear coating can mute things you might like. Therefore I tend to avoid it now-and-again if I like the look.
Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁
Had to get some thank of the help
Cheers. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed watching this and I'd like to give it a try. Do you put it straight on over the factory finish and do you varnish after each layer?
Straight onto factory finish. No varnish when done to achieve dead flat finish.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you.
When you say you topped off the bottle of X-21 with 99% IPA was that a newly opened bottle? What was the approximate dilution?
It was a new bottle.
Thanks@@boomerdiorama
I forgot to ask....do you dullcote before, after or both to seal in the weathering ???
No Dullcote on this one. Tamiya XF (Flat) paints are duller than Dullcote anyway.
Thanks for the information Boomer....Happy Railroading
Do you have to use 99% isopropyl alcohol or will 91 % work as well
Good question. Yes. You can use 50% if you want. 99% just means higher concentration and less distilled water. I use 50% IPA all the time. Have at her. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Nice.
Thank you Norman! Cheers!
WOW what a HUGE help your video was in like others have said, taken away the intimidation aspect of weathering. One question: Do you add the alcohol to the Flat Base and stir it or no? Thanks so much for your response and great video!
Thank you. Yes, I do add the alcohol to the flat base and stir it up. On the other hand, I try not to thin the "flat base" too much because it reduces the "chalky" residue, which I like to add tooth to surface etc. Less thinner - more toothy chalk. ;-)
Good demo. That dry brush looks strangely familiar.
It`s all classical art techniques in the end . . . Lol.
Boomer, can denatured alcohol be substituted for the isopropyl alcohol?
I have used it to thin Tamiya before , but I prefer IPA.
"Til the cows come home"? Boomer?
I haven't heard that since my ol' gran used to say it...lol
BTW, nice fading and aging process.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍
How much alcohol did uou mix in
I usually start with 50./50 but I never measure anything really. Just feel with a bit of testing, trial and error.😁
Hi Boom this method is ideal for creating heavy sun or salt air fade on paint? Have you tried airbrushing a very thin (9 part thinner 1 part flat white) coat over the same paint? Would like to know from your experience which works best, tks
That's a great idea!
Hi, this medium isn't intended to be used solely. It's a mixing medium you use to make paint going flat. So it works best with gloss acrylics and the more of X21 you add the flatter the end result wil be. But adding to much and the result fogs up (milky look). That can be a desired effect, but normally other techniques get a better effect.
Better "effect" is subjective. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Yes that's true. The reason for my comment is that it appears that the intended usage isn't understood. It is also important to realise that there isn't a lot of acrylic binder in the product. Hence the powdery effect. But if this is the effect desired no problem, just as long as you are aware of the properties of the product. It's like hammering a nail with a screwdriver. With some skill it works but a hammer is a better choice. In this case, I would recommend powders or zinc white oil paint (they are the hammer).
@@quarter105 The intended usage is fully understood. I have always been rather unorthodox in my approach to modelling and painting (regardless of the rules) and I will continue to do so. Furthermore, the method I apply clearly works in my favor. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Excellent tutorial! By 99% Alcohol do you mean the alcohol or 1 part water to 99% alcohol (ie alcohol content)
Yes. I mean 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. It' cheaper this way because I can dilute it with water. ;-)
Boom, if you had painted this car (vs factory paint), would you seal it and then apply x21, or just brush it on your original paint job. Thanks, M
Brush it on over the original paint. But don't thin the X-21 with IPA! Use it straight from the bottle. Let it dry chalky white, then work it off with a stiff bristle brush. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama thank you Sir.
A few more, Boomer:
1. What ratio do you mix alcohol to flat base?
2. Do you change the ratio for different effects?
3. After mixing, does the base/isopropyl mix store well, or is it a “use it or lose it” situation?
1. I try not to thin "Flat" base too much. But try anything.
2. Yes.
3. If you thin Tamiya with IPA the shelf life is almost indefinite. The pigment just settles to the bottom and waits for a good stir and shake. 😉
Can the Tamiya flat base be thinned so it can be air brushed?
Yes. Although it doesn`t seem to be very effective and tends to leave white opaque areas. If this is the desired effect you want for a weathering step then sure. I find it works better, for me, with a brush and then followed by rubbing it off. I hope that answers your question.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks.
Glad you keep all the model paint in business, joke, that Tamiya is expensive, buy a quart of exterior paint and thin the piss out of it, that's enough for your lifetime of modeling, 40 years of model truck weathering, never bought expensive crap
Thanks for sharing. Cheers.