Mercedes Upper Control Arm Replacement
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- čas přidán 6. 01. 2022
- In this video, I replaced the upper control arms on my 2003 Mercedes E320 W211 RWD.
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/ @dcfgarage
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Disclaimer
The information contained in this video is provided "as is", and should be used for directional purposes. Always follow safety procedures and understand the legal implications of any modifications you might make to your vehicle. Several factors beyond my control might change the information provided in this video. I do my best to provide the most accurate and complete information possible, however, I shall not take any liability for property damage and injury occurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use it at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any implied or expressed warranty, or liability. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I am a Korean.
I envy you that you have the infrastructure and space to repair your own cars
Wow he is good..easy for me I just copy what he did. He is so clear and precise 5 stars
Yes it is a level sensor, if your car drops the front on the ground one day don't panic, check to see if it's broken, if it is, that's your problem either front or rear.
Thanks for such a great video, just changed my upper control arms using instructions from
This video. No other video explains the steps as clearly as this. Great job
Thanks! I'm happy it helped!
Good job, thanks 👍
Just did the upper control arm on my Mercedes, bought a whole bunch of front end parts to save money. Ever since I replaced the upper control arm and had it aligned, the car pulled terrible towards the oncoming traffic. Brought it to a garage to find out why, they told me the new drivers side upper control arm that I put on has a R stamped on it. Lol. I put the passenger (R) side on the left side of the car. Hence, pulling towards What a dummy, but easy fix. 😜
It happens! I tried to remove a fuel line from the fuel filter the other day with picks instead of a fuel line disconnect tool.
Thanks for share this video, a hug.
Thank you for the share!
A much easier route next time-since this is a continuous issue for you may be to simply change just the ball joint.
Here are the torque values I found on a post on MB world
Per MB WIS these are the torque values:
3 bolts attaching the ball joint to the upper control arm 20 Nm plus 45 degrees
Single bolt that joins the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle 20 Nm plus 90
degrees.
Hope this helps.
On these control arms you cant just replace the ball joint, the whole arm will need to be replaced
@@nicka8718 on these you can, see the three bolts. On 4 matic you cannot
Fantastik!! Mine has the same clunk/rattle.. i will be replacing ps i did subscribe.. thanks again!!
great information, save couple hundred bucks by doing our self.
You do realise the ball joints come out of those without removing the control arm right?
So you can take apart the strut and disconnect the air lines and just put it back together without any issues? I though it would drop all the way to the floor if you jack it down but I never done it yet.
The strut keeps the air in. I didn’t do anything else.
why dont you show how to take the drivers side upper control arm off and back on I would like to know how you hold the nut on the control arm to reinstall their is no room to get to the nut on the firewall side? how do you hold it to reinstall the passenger side is easy why is their no video of the drivers side ?
Any updates on the forteres compressor?
Still working strong. But if you plan on running power tools, consider a 20+ gallon one
How did you get the drivers side upper control arm nut off/on near the fuse box/brake reservoir? It’s so far down there and no room at all to get to it.
Just have to squeeze a wrench.
Thanks. Got it. I bought an extra long 16mm and taped a magnet to the back of it to keep the nut from falling out and down into the car.
Very clever solution..
Hi, after this replacement, does it need to do any wheel alignment?
Thanks
If you have brand new tires, it's probably a good idea, as it might affect camber. But I didn't feel the need
Did you damage the air suspension after this? Engine codes after this?
None. All good
Couple of questions, did you not loose some codes by just disconnecting battery with no life support via diagnostic port..? Also, do you not have to simulate ride height before torquing control arm , great video though, love thwe specs and socket sizes, thanks
Great questions. Yes, I should have lowered the car before torquing the bolts. The bushings are likely to wear faster. I don't worry about codes because I can reset them, the windows and the sunroof
@@dcfgarage Ha, is that all it is, many thanks for getting back to me.
You do have life support through the smaller front battery which he didn't disconnect, that's it's purpose..Which BTW means you still had systems powered up.
One thing worth noting: NEVER use an impact gun when connecting the upper control arm and the spindle. You will snap the upper ball joint bolt.
Thanks for the tip
How many miles?
It has 140kish
Enjoyed the video, would have liked to be shown what the problem with the control arm was, could see the ball joint was loose so why not just replace that?
You can only replace the lower control arm ball joint. For the upper, you need to replace the arm. You can also replace the joint on the forward thrust arm, but it only makes sense if you're going to install an upgraded one for better handling. Normally on an amg model
@@dcfgarage Thanks for that, it is good to know. Your video does a great job of explaining what I have been told my car needs.
@@dcfgarage No you dont "need to" replace the arm. The ball joint is bolted into the arm by the 3 bolts.
Yeah it is the control arm that’s making the noise on the ps
Yeah ima subscribe can u make more useful videos on the e320
I bought a 15yo Mercedes. O my, now I understand why people do such works and film videos every weekend. There is absolutely no space for such amount of mechanic’s leisure in any Toyota…
Lol! Good point
Why not replace with Lend order for $120 and not have to replace for another 80-100 k miles? How much cheaper is the generic version? I always purchase the highest quality part to cut down on labor. Cheaper version may only last 20-40 k miles?
Lemforder
Cheap car, cheap parts
. @DCFGARAGE Besides they'll last probably as long as you own it and you'd be really surprised how many parts are made in China anyways and then branded with another manufacturer brand under license, VW has had their own manufacturing plants in China for decades under their supervision and QC to supply their parts and assemble them in Germany. VW was the first manufacturer in China just ahead of GM. I've also noticed that it seems that part of those deals also provide for the manufacturer to produce and sell those parts as aftermarket in generic form but to the same QC specs, so just because it says China on it doesn't always mean it's junk.
Replace only ball joints its the 3 screws its 20 euro oem takes 10 min work
Mine had no screws
Just a cheap Chinese versio
@@dcfgarage it has bolts but they're there, even in the video, but see my previous comment above.
Just change the upper ball joint instead with genuine parts. Its cheaper and easier.
I'll keep that in mind for next time
Except that as soon as you replace the failed ball joint you then transfer the stress to the control arm bushings which are just as old as these failed ball joints but thinking it's something else because you just replaced the ball joints so surely not that, so you're back under there again in a few months cursing the entire time that you should have done it his way the first time, he did it right, no reason to skimp on a complicated job over a minimal cost difference in part unless money is really tight and you're trying to squeak by.
@@dcfgarage No don't, see my comment above.