This guy deserves a dam sponser Just got a 06e320 cdi 300thousand on the clock Thanks to this man i now have fixed alot of issues the hillbilly mechanic's near me will not touch it because the name so thank you man if you want something done on your benz fix it yourself keep them videos comeing
I've been looking for this type of video for weeks! Every time I would watch someone replace the lower control arm they would always mention how it should be torqued to spec when the car was at ride height but never mentioned or showed how you'd actually be able to reach the bolt with the wheel back on and the car at ride height. This is probably the ONLY video that actually shows that key piece of information. THANK YOU FOR THIS!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH.... I did the bad install out of ignorance and i tore a brand new rubber bushing up in one of these and could not for the life of me figure out where the clunk was coming from. When i took it down to look after watching this video it was indeed torn badly. I would have never looked if not for you.
I changed this one on my right side while the car was jacked up. So I know now that the rubber is screwed. I was searching for this sort of video for weeks, but it popped up just now. As they say better later than never. Nice video though.
Super Nice, thorough Job here. Video was Clear & Steady & camera was oriented so I could understand as if I was laying under the car! Audio was clear, slow & GOOD pace and your narration was excellent. Really appreciated! THANK YOU for your efforts!
Good point for lower the car all the way down then fully tighten the big bolt to reduce the tension on the bushing. I just followed your direction replaced my 2005 E500 lower control arms and inner outer tie rods. Thank you for the great video.
you are so right about the correct position to install the torque strut. They need to be biased in resting position HERE IS MY TIP: Same thing is true for the calipers slides pins during brake jobs! Apply brake pressure with both slide pins loose then tighten them. This automatically adjust the geometry of: pins - calipers - disc with the proper bias !! (this simple trick makes a nice improvement in pedal smoothness)
The bolts are used to adjust the caster alignment so you need to install the bolt in relationship to the grooves in the bushing boss. torque the nut hold the bolt, good video!
you make the best videos .. i thought you had to loosen the shock mount, caliper to be able to remove the ball joint side but you didn't so this is so much easier ..mhh
Great tutorial... Just for the record... I've been using the same ball joint separator from HF for the past 16 it 17 years ... I would have to say I've pulled over 30 ball joints with it and still going.
Great job! This might be an option to tighten the inner joint in the right position: if you measure the distance between the center of the hub and the lower edge of the fender when the car is sitting on the ground, you can lift up the whole assembly with a jack under the balljoint to the correct height without lowering the car back to the ground. It is a much easier way to make it tightened.
I am so so glad I found your youtube site. I am getting ready to do this job and I would have done it wrong. You did not mention where you purchased your lower control arm parts, an inquirring mind would like to know.
Exellent video!. I will be replacing both left and right. I suspect that the the mechanic that fitted mine last time did not do it properly. I will follow your way of doing it.
@@glasser2819 visual inspection and also the way the car begins to handle. The 1st sign is when the ball joint end of the torque strut has become torn and cracked. The grease inside it would be contaminated with dirt. You will also notice a rattling noise when driving over imperfections on the road.
I really enjoyed your video, you explained sizes, torque specs, a few clever notes, and one glaring shortcoming. I see your Harbor Freight car jack holding up your 211. Where on earth is your Harbor Freight jack stand for safety? Personally I would use a slightly more heavily built jack, as well as jack stand, but, what do I know?
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
as far as the POS from harborfreight....I have no problem with the design, the tightener thread has no tendency to strip, the hinge is indestructible and the metal has the right hardness..the thing is ok in my book. On the other hand I purchased a ball joint remover with a set of bushings etc, very solid (SEEMINGLY), the vise like tightener is a solid heavy aluminum monster and I worked with that on the identical Mercedes w211 E320 CDI ..R/R the ball joint on the front end ...you can see that ball joint in this video next to the one that comes with the front end lower control arm. I had no problem BENDING the heavy vise from that ball joint removal tool kit I bought from Ebay. Luckily Napa rented me the equivalent tool and lo and behold the Napa tool was steel all around. It worked! So. that Ebay toolkit was indeed POS!
good work, thanks for the discussion, So the lower control arm includes new ball joints, correct? Anyone advise? Mine is squeaking and due for a rebuild. Ready to send for parts!
It is very, very true. It should be tighten further when the car is on full load. I changed my rear absorber and although it is brand new, it gives a squeak sound every time I drove on a hump. Damn machines.. I have to DIY!
Hi there, its been two years since you made this exellent video! I was just wondering how those front lower control arms are doing? Have they lasted all this time, or did you have to change them again? I used Lemforder arms too in my car, and they're just great 15000 miles later!
I’m following your video and my cheap ball joint breaker just destroyed itsself :/ any tips on what I can do now? I’m wondering if using a jack to apply upwards pressure will be enough due to the car weighing down on it ?
Is it the same to load the knuckle with a cric to the "resting position" leaving you more space to torque the control arm at the right spec? Thank you very much!
Great video, please tell me of the problem you were experiencing, I have excessive wear on the inside of my tires, now shot in less than 12 months. I figured bushings and ball joints or a complete kit. How did you come to the conclusion that these were the parts required changing. I have a 2009 e350 W211
Lay two pieces of scrap 2x10 or something stacked on top of each other, on BOTH sides, and then lower the vehicle down on it. Gives you and extra couple of inches of space.
Thank you for this great video , I have my w211 pulling to the left while driving , i took it to an alignment shop they found that the caster on the left side is not aligned properly , however they told me this model has no alignment screw , do you think replacing this part will fix my caster and make the drive straight again ?
It should have a bolt with groves in it. Those groves can be aligned with the little notches inside the oval-shaped hole in 3 different positions center, forward or rearward.
Idk how you fit under the car after taking it off the jack AND manage to torque 80nm... Is it ok to drive the car onto a pair of ramps while control arms arent torqued yet?
The + whatever degree confusing me which you just increase the amount of torque aspect instead of 80 nm make it 85 or 90 im really confused do I have to go through that step?
Instead of trying to squish yourself under the car after you lower it down and tension the suspension, you could have supported the vehicle with jack stands, placed a block of wood under the knuckle and jacked it up. That would tension the suspension while still allowing for full access to torque the bolt/nut.
Surely tightening the last bolt when the cars down is wrong the bolt wouldn't be centred to the hole will it then tightening in the wrong place. Have you had any problems with this since you've done it??
Yes a good video..thx..but i was informed in loosening ball joint nut first and seperating with spliter..before loosening long bolt first..but i guess patato potato..as they say..but good vid..thx.
hmm i got that off by turning that bolt off with a T45 torx with a cheater bar and turned it till it broke away. and it just slid out. I guess i gotta redo that other side though, i didn't tighten it with the weight on it like that.
Tried to break lose the ball joint but the tool pin broke instead. It's not even moving. Hardly possible if it 10 years old. Will have to leave for car service.
Fantastic tutorial, uncomplicated and straightforward. May I ask( even though this an older vid,) would you think the torx E18 bolt would be the same on a 2006 CLS 350 W219. I have the exact same job to do, and I’m uncertain if it would be the same size. I don’t wanna start the job and find I do not have the correct socket. I know I’m late to the party, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and Keep up the top notch work. Liked and subscribed👍
Hilarious Comment about HF tools. Another alternative is to "rent" a ball joint separator at Auto Zone. You get your money back if you return the tool within the time limit.
Control arm? Torque strut? I see different names in places and this is often called torque strut but the other part is the control arm. Do not want to order the wrong one! (you imply its the same yet I see different parts for each different name, not convinced)
Thrust arm, spring arm, torque strut; yep confusing for me. Easy cure; go to fcpeuro.com They sell only quality parts. You will know which control arms they are referring to from the pictures.
Mechanics know all too well how to install those arms properly, they just want to get it fitted and take your money in the fastest way they can to get you out the door!
Can not understand the justification of spending more money for auto parts that are guaranteed for life. LL Bean does business under this same pretext. This company sells clothing and other merchandise that can be purchased most anywhere for half the price. In my mind, this is about the same rationale some people use when buying a cheap tools at Harbor Freight. Buy a cheap tool, then spend more money than it's worth to insure it. This is a good deal??? Yes, for Harbor Freight!
FCP Euro will refund the cost of a worn out part after you return it with a receipt. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me, since their prices are competitive with other parts sellers on the web.
@@gkelly941 By doing a little online shopping, I found a very comparable German OEM version of the control arms and bushings for my 06' MB E320 CDI for nearly half the price of the FCP Euro parts shown by the Car D. Ologist in his video. Just letting others know that it might be worth while to do a little comparitive shopping before buying anything with a lifetime warranty. Don't see any point in buying a part for twice as much money and then having to pay to return it when it is worn out. My original parts lasted for 13 years. Very doubtful that I'll have the car another 13 years. After all, most of do our own maintenance because we want to save money. So where's the value in purchasing a part for twice the money.
This guy deserves a dam sponser
Just got a 06e320 cdi 300thousand on the clock
Thanks to this man i now have fixed alot of issues the hillbilly mechanic's near me will not touch it because the name so thank you man if you want something done on your benz fix it yourself keep them videos comeing
I've been looking for this type of video for weeks! Every time I would watch someone replace the lower control arm they would always mention how it should be torqued to spec when the car was at ride height but never mentioned or showed how you'd actually be able to reach the bolt with the wheel back on and the car at ride height. This is probably the ONLY video that actually shows that key piece of information. THANK YOU FOR THIS!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH.... I did the bad install out of ignorance and i tore a brand new rubber bushing up in one of these and could not for the life of me figure out where the clunk was coming from. When i took it down to look after watching this video it was indeed torn badly. I would have never looked if not for you.
Thanks for the heads up on how to tighten the bush bolts to avoid overs tressing bush rubber. Great video 👍
This has been the most informative and helpful video for this project. Thank you so much!!!!
I changed this one on my right side while the car was jacked up. So I know now that the rubber is screwed. I was searching for this sort of video for weeks, but it popped up just now. As they say better later than never. Nice video though.
Super Nice, thorough Job here. Video was Clear & Steady & camera was oriented so I could understand as if I was laying under the car! Audio was clear, slow & GOOD pace and your narration was excellent. Really appreciated! THANK YOU for your efforts!
Thanks for going beyond the call to make sure the part is installed correctly. I have full confidence in doing this job
This is the best diy lower thrust arm video I've seen. Thanks!!!!!
Good point for lower the car all the way down then fully tighten the big bolt to reduce the tension on the bushing. I just followed your direction replaced my 2005 E500 lower control arms and inner outer tie rods. Thank you for the great video.
you are so right about the correct position to install the torque strut. They need to be biased in resting position
HERE IS MY TIP:
Same thing is true for the calipers slides pins during brake jobs!
Apply brake pressure with both slide pins loose then tighten them. This automatically adjust the geometry of: pins - calipers - disc with the proper bias !! (this simple trick makes a nice improvement in pedal smoothness)
I was quoted prices $650 to $2,150 for this job!
Now I know I can do and do it right thanks to you. Great video God bless
The bolts are used to adjust the caster alignment so you need to install the bolt in relationship to the grooves in the bushing boss. torque the nut hold the bolt, good video!
Yes! Correct
Nice instruction. Thanks for the tip about lowering the vehicle before final tightening.
Great video! You did explain the degrees and well, too! Thanks, BRO!!!
Good, detailed and informative video, I really appreciate it. Thanks
Thank you!! I'll be doing this job soon...great job and fantastic ability to teach slowly and methodically.
Really good stuff - clear and complete. Thanks!
Very good,great to see an everyday guy doing a pro job.
Btw, I am watching your videos from all the way over here in Ireland.
Same
Thank you for this very helpful information! Greetings from Hamburg
nice simple instructions , just going to change both this morning. great help keep going my son.!!
Great video thanks! I love the E bolt 60 degree trick, very nice.
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you.
Good to see you back Dr.
Dr. Vinnie Boombatz ??
@@Ray-hg3ie Dr Richard Kimball
great job and very good video! The local MB Stealership quoted me $650 for replacing the bushings only in my 2006 W211 Sport
you make the best videos .. i thought you had to loosen the shock mount, caliper to be able to remove the ball joint side but you didn't so this is so much easier ..mhh
Thanks! Doing this on my Wagon tomorrow; great tips.
Thank you for your very clear video, nice proper engineer thinking nice job.
Great tutorial... Just for the record... I've been using the same ball joint separator from HF for the past 16 it 17 years ... I would have to say I've pulled over 30 ball joints with it and still going.
Excellent videos! Greeting from Belgium!
Thanks for making and posting this video.
Great job! This might be an option to tighten the inner joint in the right position: if you measure the distance between the center of the hub and the lower edge of the fender when the car is sitting on the ground, you can lift up the whole assembly with a jack under the balljoint to the correct height without lowering the car back to the ground. It is a much easier way to make it tightened.
Very well explained, great video
Great video. You inspire me to do more Diy stuff to mine👍
me too... I love how he makes it better 🤗
You are such a nerd! But I love you. Hope you’re a life saver. We’ll find out tomorrow.
fantastic video, very good job,thank you for the video.
Very informative video
Thank you!
I am so so glad I found your youtube site. I am getting ready to do this job and I would have done it wrong. You did not mention where you purchased your lower control arm parts, an inquirring mind would like to know.
Exellent video!. I will be replacing both left and right. I suspect that the the mechanic that fitted mine last time did not do it properly. I will follow your way of doing it.
how do you know when these parts are worn out ??
@@glasser2819 visual inspection and also the way the car begins to handle. The 1st sign is when the ball joint end of the torque strut has become torn and cracked. The grease inside it would be contaminated with dirt. You will also notice a rattling noise when driving over imperfections on the road.
I really enjoyed your video, you explained sizes, torque specs, a few clever notes, and one glaring shortcoming. I see your Harbor Freight car jack holding up your 211. Where on earth is your Harbor Freight jack stand for safety? Personally I would use a slightly more heavily built jack, as well as jack stand, but, what do I know?
Thank you for this video 🙏🏻
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
Great post! Please remember to always us floor jacks. Never trust the Hydraulic jack .
as far as the POS from harborfreight....I have no problem with the design, the tightener thread has no tendency to strip, the hinge is indestructible and the metal has the right hardness..the thing is ok in my book. On the other hand I purchased a ball joint remover with a set of bushings etc, very solid (SEEMINGLY), the vise like tightener is a solid heavy aluminum monster and I worked with that on the identical Mercedes w211 E320 CDI ..R/R the ball joint on the front end ...you can see that ball joint in this video next to the one that comes with the front end lower control arm. I had no problem BENDING the heavy vise from that ball joint removal tool kit I bought from Ebay. Luckily Napa rented me the equivalent tool and lo and behold the Napa tool was steel all around. It worked! So. that Ebay toolkit was indeed POS!
good work, thanks for the discussion, So the lower control arm includes new ball joints, correct? Anyone advise? Mine is squeaking and due for a rebuild. Ready to send for parts!
It is very, very true. It should be tighten further when the car is on full load. I changed my rear absorber and although it is brand new, it gives a squeak sound every time I drove on a hump. Damn machines.. I have to DIY!
Changed all done easy can also be done without taking out tires if you have a lift
Great video!
Hi there, its been two years since you made this exellent video! I was just wondering how those front lower control arms are doing? Have they lasted all this time, or did you have to change them again? I used Lemforder arms too in my car, and they're just great 15000 miles later!
Should I load the car for swaybars endlinks and upper control arms thanks in advance plus nice DIY
Thank you for this video!
Super Video.
Gut Arbeit gut erklären 🙏schöne große von Deutschland
I’m following your video and my cheap ball joint breaker just destroyed itsself :/ any tips on what I can do now? I’m wondering if using a jack to apply upwards pressure will be enough due to the car weighing down on it ?
Is it the same to load the knuckle with a cric to the "resting position" leaving you more space to torque the control arm at the right spec? Thank you very much!
Thanks a Lot for that Video
*Thank you !*
Awesome, thanks!
Hello. Love the video. May need some help with repairs on my E500 and E320 2004 models. Thanks
Good Video!!! Th.
Great video, please tell me of the problem you were experiencing, I have excessive wear on the inside of my tires, now shot in less than 12 months.
I figured bushings and ball joints or a complete kit.
How did you come to the conclusion that these were the parts required changing.
I have a 2009 e350 W211
You will feel shaking under braking.
Hi Kurt. I am having the same problem as yours . What parts did you install for a fix
Hey Dr. what was the sign your had this trouble, also was that torch tighten or loose
Great video. I am little confused. What do you mean torque to 50nm AND 60 degrees? Whats the 60 degrees?
hi! I was wondering where you had purchased this part. I can’t seem to find it anywhere online
How did the alignment came out with with groves not aligned to bushing?
Do you have to take it for alignment after this job?
Lay two pieces of scrap 2x10 or something stacked on top of each other, on BOTH sides, and then lower the vehicle down on it. Gives you and extra couple of inches of space.
Thank you for this great video , I have my w211 pulling to the left while driving , i took it to an alignment shop they found that the caster on the left side is not aligned properly , however they told me this model has no alignment screw , do you think replacing this part will fix my caster and make the drive straight again ?
Might be a bent control arm. Try the upper control arm first.
It should have a bolt with groves in it. Those groves can be aligned with the little notches inside the oval-shaped hole in 3 different positions center, forward or rearward.
Idk how you fit under the car after taking it off the jack AND manage to torque 80nm... Is it ok to drive the car onto a pair of ramps while control arms arent torqued yet?
Thanks Nice
This is the same situation I’ve on my wagon I’ve just ordered some from Rockauto
How did you orient the slots in your bolt?
The + whatever degree confusing me which you just increase the amount of torque aspect instead of 80 nm make it 85 or 90 im really confused do I have to go through that step?
Instead of trying to squish yourself under the car after you lower it down and tension the suspension, you could have supported the vehicle with jack stands, placed a block of wood under the knuckle and jacked it up. That would tension the suspension while still allowing for full access to torque the bolt/nut.
Just for the record and those of you doing this yourself. My W211 E280 CDI had an E22 head not an E18. That might help someone who gets stuck.
W 211 👍
Surely tightening the last bolt when the cars down is wrong the bolt wouldn't be centred to the hole will it then tightening in the wrong place. Have you had any problems with this since you've done it??
Hello what is the name for the bolt on top or where can find it
Yes a good video..thx..but i was informed in loosening ball joint nut first and seperating with spliter..before loosening long bolt first..but i guess patato potato..as they say..but good vid..thx.
hmm i got that off by turning that bolt off with a T45 torx with a cheater bar and turned it till it broke away. and it just slid out. I guess i gotta redo that other side though, i didn't tighten it with the weight on it like that.
the hold fitting is hex? I thought those were all Torx star bits. Not hex. Merz has gone to T-fittings on internal with few exceptions.
Mechanics do it for money, and this is why is never done right.
Good job...
Mechanics have significant time pressure, which is why they are less likely to take the time to do it right....
At 9:52 please use 19mm socket adapter instead.
Tried to break lose the ball joint but the tool pin broke instead. It's not even moving. Hardly possible if it 10 years old. Will have to leave for car service.
That part is called a Thrust Arm
what part number is this?
can you please tell me what the symptoms are?
I too am wondering how can you tell the rubber bushing or which part is shot?
control arms bushing/ball joint
sway bar links
😂
You'll hear clunking when your suspension shifts left, right or has to come down on itself (pot holes, speed humps).
You should put tower stand in your car instead of the car jack you can end up been crash by your car
That ball joint stud is held from rotating with a torx Not a Hex .Other wise great video.
Amazon has that arm for 38 bucks ;)
That by the way is not thorn bush is different design
yes, I noted that when the original bush was fine .... just a different design with sections missing that he mistook as 'torn'!
Fantastic tutorial, uncomplicated and straightforward. May I ask( even though this an older vid,) would you think the torx E18 bolt would be the same on a 2006 CLS 350 W219. I have the exact same job to do, and I’m uncertain if it would be the same size. I don’t wanna start the job and find I do not have the correct socket. I know I’m late to the party, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and Keep up the top notch work.
Liked and subscribed👍
Hilarious Comment about HF tools. Another alternative is to "rent" a ball joint separator at Auto Zone. You get your money back if you return the tool within the time limit.
I see the lower control arms for my 07 E350 4Matic are $500 each from FCP. Geez....
Control arm? Torque strut? I see different names in places and this is often called torque strut but the other part is the control arm. Do not want to order the wrong one! (you imply its the same yet I see different parts for each different name, not convinced)
Thrust arm, spring arm, torque strut; yep confusing for me.
Easy cure; go to fcpeuro.com They sell only quality parts. You will know which control arms they are referring to from the pictures.
What Bout the other control arm can't find any damn video
Cant find anything on rear lower control arm no where... Smh
Mechanics know all too well how to install those arms properly, they just want to get it fitted and take your money in the fastest way they can to get you out the door!
Can not understand the justification of spending more money for auto parts that are guaranteed for life. LL Bean does business under this same pretext. This company sells clothing and other merchandise that can be purchased most anywhere for half the price. In my mind, this is about the same rationale some people use when buying a cheap tools at Harbor Freight. Buy a cheap tool, then spend more money than it's worth to insure it. This is a good deal??? Yes, for Harbor Freight!
FCP Euro will refund the cost of a worn out part after you return it with a receipt. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me, since their prices are competitive with other parts sellers on the web.
@@gkelly941 By doing a little online shopping, I found a very comparable German OEM version of the control arms and bushings for my 06' MB E320 CDI for nearly half the price of the FCP Euro parts shown by the Car D. Ologist in his video. Just letting others know that it might be worth while to do a little comparitive shopping before buying anything with a lifetime warranty. Don't see any point in buying a part for twice as much money and then having to pay to return it when it is worn out. My original parts lasted for 13 years. Very doubtful that I'll have the car another 13 years. After all, most of do our own maintenance because we want to save money. So where's the value in purchasing a part for twice the money.