Front door speaker change Golf MK5 8" Kit
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2013
- In this video i show you when i change my old stock speakers to something much better in my Golf MK5.
hope you can have use of the video aswell and enjoy it :)
the kit is made of:
Tweeters: MDS DMT-9.X 40MM Silk dome.
Filters: MDS Fanatic Power.
Sub: B2 Audio HN8
Mount rings for 8" speaker: Autoleads SAK-3109.
Note: on the contacts that follow the mounts be sure to check polarity!
the red wires was on the negative side in my car.
Link to my Door Panel removal / mounting Guide:
• Door panel removal Gol...
Special thanks to Don Ellis for letting me use his music to make this video!
be sure to visit him to find more of his good stuff here:
/ donellismusic
song in the video: Mayhem's Theme (Dubstep) - Don Ellis
• Mayhem's Theme (Dubste...
And some various stuff i made myself.
Feel free to like comment and maybe consider subscribe (if new) to stay updated for future videos. Thanks for watching/reading/listening and have a nice day ^__^ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
For those who wonder what the adapter rings are I bought these: Mount rings for 8" speaker: Autoleads SAK-3109. try search this to see if they are available for you :)
hello and thanks! I have the + Cable on the passenger side of the car. there are one hole behind the torpedo wall in the engine room for the coupe heater. as i have that hole for the heater i made a new one right next to it. it was pretty tricky to make. I can supply picture for this install if you like. and be sure to check if you also have the extra battery space in the trunk on the right side under the styrolit block. (a black cover with lots of bolts) to put a nice battery in :D
Thanks! i'm very happy with that camera :) thanks for your comment
Thank you very much for the comment :) glad my video could help :)
in my case i'm not feeling that i lack any sound without the 3 way kit. what I would recommend is to use drivers with wide range if you plan a 2 way kit so you don't miss important range. here I use 40MM silk dome tweeters with range from 2500HZ and up that gives powerful sound from the dashboard and the mids has 70-7000HZ range that fill up the rest. I also recommend to use 8" kit as the stock mids are about the same cone size. you will though need to take off the panel gasket if you do :)
Man your good, thanks for showing everyone how to do this. I'm off to install some new speakers.
Thanks for your comment :) Good luck with your build
Michael M h
Awesome man! Thanks for using my music again too. Great video! :) I have a new track going up in a couple hours too!
My stock speakers in my mk5 are still going strong with an aftermarket stereo sounds like I got a sound system and all 🤘🏼
The stock speakers are rather good in this car and they took remarkable abuse with a strong amplifier before they broke too. If you play with the head unit as amp you probably can’t break them even if you try
Thank you very much for your answers.You are a good man.I will try what you have told me and I'll come back to tell you what I have solved.
Thank you very much! i am very happy how it sounds in real life :)
I recommended Focal 165FX the speakers are awesome
Thank you
good video. always hated that speaker positioning on my MK5 GTI's. It is a lot better positionally on my MK6 GTI's.
Thank you :) it makes it a bit more tricky to get the sound correct but this I built here works pretty well actually
thanks for your comment :) is it only the actual tweeter that stopped working? if the mid driver still sound as it should you prolly have a broken tweeter or wire in that door. my tweeters gave in aswell after some time. but my rear doors still run with the stock speakers :)
That beauty is so shiny :3
Well I know which upgrade is next for my car after having seen this video it's awesome that an 8" woofer will fit with ease...My whole sound stage will be vastly improved over the present layout and carry much more low end impact from estimated 65hz on up...I love my MK5 Gti as I recently got to know her and VW engineering intimately as wrecked my baby at around 100 mph...God was with me walked away without a scratch and car really not hurt my hats off to VW Audi aside I will never drive anything else...
Kris Garner yep, the space to work with here is pretty amazing actually. The only spot that is more or less unusable because it's too little space is the optional mid speaker close to the handle
if the mid bass still play music i'd say wire or filter problem. if you have the 3 way system you have a filter close to the big speaker, the problem is prolly in that if both tweeter and middle speaker is dead. you may be able to find the problem if you take off the door panel. I don't think resetting the rcd will make a change but you may try. there is a fuse in the engine room you can take out and put back in. settings will not be lost if you do that, nor can-bus code :)
Thanks! and no problem, your music was a good fit for this video :) A new song sounds very nice too! i look forward to listen to it =)
sadly its privatd now... ;(
@@Keijotti looks like it is now
@@Pulverrostmannen yeah sadly
I love the original vw speakers the ones in my vs passat 1999 Mk.3 i belive were awesome :DDD
Indeed, I must say they sound not that bad to be stock speakers and they also take more than many other brands do before they break
Anytime :) i'd love to hear how it goes
Thank you ...very good video and realy good cam
Great video, Im looking to do the same in my MKV Jetta, however Id love to see how you wired everything up with the factory harnesses. There are so many videos on how to remove/replace everything
(stock speakers), out but not many on how to wire it up with new speakers.
ickarbod I don’t have this car anymore because the engine blew so I can’t make a decent video how it was wired up but the way I done it is not so hard anyway.
What I did was to connect my amps output with cables from behind the stereo unit and use the stock harness from there out to the doors and connect my speakers with.
There is only two leads out to each door but the tricky part can be to find the correct polarity as the color on the leads are not normal standard.
It is possible to measure the leads with a multimeter to find the right leads and mark them up.
Or even connect the speaker and use a small battery (1,5 to max 9 volt battery) to pop the speaker with, when the cone of the mid moves outwards you mark the leads with the polarity of the battery and you have it right, and do this on all doors you rebuild.
When I built this system I got a pair of regular ISO contacts to build in to the cars harness and using the corresponding ones from my amps so that they only fit the right way, and I had these contacts down to the floor mat on the passenger side. And when I had to restore the system to play with the factory stereo I just pull out the amps contact and plug the two iso in each other again and it was done in minutes.
I can still fix a picture for you how this harness looked if you want some ideas how to make one if you want to make it the same.
But I find it pretty good to have this solution as it was very quick to go from amps to head unit to play with the door speakers
i'm in the process of changing the speakers in my mk v gti. do you feel you are lacking any midrange sound by not putting in a 3 way? i'm looking at doing a 2 way component system, 6.5" and tweeter, as it's much cheaper than a 3 way.
Nice work man.I have a question please.My 'stock'rcd 300 worked fine until last week.My left side tweeter stopped working.Do you have any ideea why?Thank you.
Nice video!
Did you just use the original wires from the head unit to the filter, without connecting an amplifier?
HI,love the video; can you tell me where does your + cabel goes from the battery to the amp? did you make a hole or does one exists?? thanks
Thanks! I use my Sony HDR-CX250E camera for this video :) A very good camera for the price imo. thanks for the comment ^__^
I see that you are trully good with speakers and audis sistems,I have a coupe golf5 and in the back no speakers.If I buy 2 speakers for the back can I mount them myself?Are there wires pulled allready in the back?Is just plug and play,or is more work to do from a specialist?Thank you,please excuse me for all those questions.
The filter? the box right next to the mid woofer
The camera is ace!!!!
Thank you for uploading this video, going to be doing my own speaker job soon and need or more like wanted to see what others were doing. I don't have a Golf, MIy VW is 08.5 Jetta Wolf TSI, but I know our door guts are probably the same. Thanks again!!!
thank you ever so much for your comment :) I'm glad it could help you ^__^
I forgot to mention,the middle speaker is off too.Could be a wire problem,or the rcd300?You think that if I open the door I could spot a problem?If I reset the rcd,could that resolv the problem?Thank you for you answer.(I am kind of short with the money right now,that's why I'm not going with it at a service.)
looks good m8
Thank you :)
It is the same as the rear doors speakers?
on VW you mostly have the wires ready in the doors or close by in the car. on my old golf4 i had to pull wires from the B pole to the speakers. if you gonna mount aftermarket speakers you need additional mounting rings that you can buy at your local radiostore or webb to fit the speakers in. I will make a video when i change my rear speakers when the time weather and effort is good enough :) you may ask exactly what ever you like, i'm happy when i can help and share my knowlage :)
whats the red box on the door called?
Question, do you have or can you upload a video on swapping out speakers for a 2005 Volkswagen Touareg. thanks in advance for your help!
hi! i'm afraid I don't have any experience with the Touareg and got no videos for that. though in many cases will the VW look very alike and most panels are pretty much the same to remove and so on, but there will always be a difference on the various cars. sorry I could not help with this
Thank you very much :)
What did the mount the 8” spacer with bolts or rivets? Looks great
It is regular bolts and nuts on the mounts. The holes will match up with the old rivets in the door. Thanks for your comment!
Is that a good location for a midbass speaker?I was thinking of fabricating my door panels to make a way to add a 7" midbass at the rear of the door like here but the concern is that the seats and person would muffle the sound.
John Adams if we compare with the stock speakers in the car it was not that great sound with the elements this far back in the door.
But when using these new speakers it works very well actually and the mids don't really sound like they are as far back as they are in reality and the sound is very centered in the listening position in my build.
Naturally this will vary much depending on the acoustics in the car and I also do have an audio processor with time delay to move the sound to were I want it so I think it would act pretty different if I did not have these nice accessories I do here though.
So it is pretty hard to give exact calculations for your build but if you have a pair of very good tweeters further in front and the mids a bit back I don't think you will suffer from muffled sound if you have passengers or not with you. No one can tell the difference in my car and can't even tell where the mids are located and often try to listen on the empty middle slot I have in the doors above the handle and ask me what speaker are in that hole and there is none ha ha
Awesome :P A nice car with nice sound, what else can you wish for? ;)
Great video!!! But how did you place the speaker cable through the doors? I don't know how to get the cables from amp to door???
Jonas Moeller hey there, I made the solution as to draw all cables from the amp to behind the head unit and connect out to the doors using the stock harness from there. I made a nice ISO harness with contacts and all to just plug in to the stereo itself or to the amp by making the connectors fit in the stereo or from the amps at my will. And at the same time not having to make complicated harnessing out to the doors
Thank you!!
Jonas Moeller glad I could help :)
Thank you :D thats true ;)
The stock speaker looks cool. The surround looks pokey.
The stock speakers are pretty good in this car considering how bad they can be in some cars compared even if they did not last longer than about one year for me it was still better sound in these than any other stock speakers I had in previous cars
Hi, i was thinking about changing my speakers, but the speakers i have takes more mounting depth compare to yours, about 2-3cm, and i wonder if there is enough place for them to fit? :)
Good day! Sorry for the late answer but I been looking for references I might have saved for this but I can’t find how deep the speakers can be with these rings. The car broke for me back in time so I don’t have it anymore. I am pretty sure it had a little margin left before it would be problems but my best tip is to take the speaker out and measure this with the ring and everything with the window fully down. If the speaker is too deep the window will not work to open all the way so this is the most shallow part of the door. Good luck with your build :)
yes, from the info I got will the rings will fit in the rear doors aswell. I am about to change those speakers too when the weather allow me. I will post video of that when i have it done. I'm not yet sure how the tweeters and filters may fit since the rear doors are smaller though. but i may build with other tweeters and filters anyway
How to fix back???
how was the stock front speakers connected?
in series or in parallel? i guess it has 2 speakers mounted on each channel right?
the radio is 4x20w output...but the car can have 8 speakers (stock)
+Vlad Ioan Yes the speakers in each door is connected in parallel, most cases just the tweeter and mid mounted. and the tweeter has a little capacitor as a filter. the stock headunit is indeed weak and has very little options. I have connected an Audison Bit10 to get all stuff i need and amplifiers to power everything and it sounds very good. I also have a Dension GW300 to give me desired USB and AUX input with info display on the dashboard and still keep the original interior look on the car
+Pulverrostmannen thank you for the info. i want to add OEM subwoofer speakers in my front doors and i didn't know how to mount them according to the impedance. i have RCD 210 and i have 2 free signal outputs. thank's to you, now i know, i must have 2 ohm resistance per channel. both speakers wired in parallel.
Congratulation for your work!
+Vlad Ioan Hi
if you want to use more than one woofer on the same channel you need to have in mind about the resistance of the speakers. when you have more than one woofer in parallel the resistance gets too low and i would say you need to be around 4 ohms per channel on this head unit to be safe. if you have two speaker outputs free on the unit it would be better to wire the extra speakers to those and use all channels in 4 ohms instead. when you have a tweeter in parallel the resistance is not changing much due to the capacitor
+Pulverrostmannen oh...i was thinking that i need 2 ohm resistance per output channel because of the combination between actual speakers, mid range+tweeter. i did not take into accout the capacitor from the tweeter (i didn't even know that it will make a difference). in this case i will install each woofer into a different output.
it will make any difference if i add a filter for woofer?
thank you for not letting me do stupid things.
+Vlad Ioan No problem :) I am glad when I can help. the capacitor acts like a barrier and only affects the impedance a little bit under load when it pass through the designed capacitance, it is so small amounts that the average resistance the drops you get when it charges are so small the amps won't get damage even if it technically goes lower temporary. adding a filter to your mid can help you get better sound as it filters sound the mid are not good at playing that gives unnecessary load to it above the designed range
Did have the 4in speaker on the door panel and if so did you keep them.
Nope, the 3-way system was not in the trend line I had. If you have this system you will also have separate filters mounted in the doors too. But i never used the empty mid slot either. It’s vary shallow and you need incredibly compact elements to fit in there. So if you want less trouble making your build a good 2-way system with recommended 40mm silk tweeters and 8” mid you will gain a great sound anyway as I did with this video here
hmm, remove stereo for a video, maaaaaybe. I see if i get some reason to do that. you want to have a plastic prybar kit for that anyways :) you remove the top storage slot first, it has two screws. pop it up from the front and back side. then gently remove the front frame around the headunit. then you see 4 screws that hold the unit. the rest is easy. i'm from sweden btw :)
sweet!!!
Nice vid, i need help, some MK5s didnt come with rear speakers, i got plastic cover on door panel, but no speaker behind it.
Does it allow adding some speakers in it, and is there wiring for installation of them
That is an interesting question actually which I don’t really have the answer for but as far as it usually is built it is rare not to include the wiring out to the doors at least.
I seen some cars have wires ending in the car just before the door under the plastic or cloth or even in the actual door.
I think the easiest way to check if you have these wires pre-installed in your car is to pull out your head unit and check if you have 4 pairs of wires for speaker out connected in this end and if you got this they are likely going to end inside or very close to the rear doors. It is also possible to connect a pretty cheap signal tracer to the wires behind the stereo and then sniff them out where they end in the back of the car. Hope some of this can be useful tips for your upgrades :)
@@Pulverrostmannen Thank You sir, firstly, on the quick answer, secondly on the good tips.
I’ll make sure to come back anytime if I need help.
God bless
@@sc_273 my pleasure :) what you can also follow is the colors on the wires which gonna be different for each door so if you find the extra two pairs behind your stereo you could eventually track these color codes into your doors as well. I be happy to hear about your progress. Good luck!
hey i was wondering if you bought this as a set?
and could you send me the link ? link to the tweeter,etc.?
hi! thanks for your comment. this set is bought in separate parts. the woofers are B2 Audio HN8 b2-audio.com/hn8.html the 40MM silk dome tweeters i use are not available anymore where i live atleast. very powerful ones. you may find others that are like them hopefully. I have info about all parts i use in the description :) feel free to ask more if you need
What about the the cables ? The subwoofer have 4 cable and the replacement have just 2 how you did it ?And the original tweeter have 3 cables and the replacement just 2
I will be appreciate if you can help
Thank you
+Georgis Yousef the woofer has two pairs of wires, one comes from the head unit, then the other pair shall go up to the tweeter. inside the connector of the woofer the pins shall be in pairs just to make connection easier. if you have three wires going to your tweeter i'm not sure why because i had only two wires if not you have the three way speaker system in your car. when i connected my new speakers i used the stock harness from behind the head unit out to the door and connected it to a filter you see in this video and then wire the new tweeter and woofer to the filter. if you can supply some pictures of your wires i may be able to help you more. hope this was useful for you
So the front big speakers are 8”? I thought they were 6.5 what are the sizes of the rest of them? I put some Sonys In the back I think 6s I went to install them In the front didn’t realize they were bigger and also do I really need that transformer thing or what ever that is?
Yes the front system uses equal to 8” woofers. They have a smaller rim as they are designed to be the right shape but have the same cone area as a real 8” speaker.
The front system in these cars came with either a cheaper 2-way system and a more expensive 3-way system which also have a separate filter.
When you replace your stock speakers you preferably use the filter that is supplied with them so that your filter matches the speakers you use.
como se llama el tema que suena
hey so i love the video, and have watched it over and over and paused to get the wiring down but im still confused how you did this. i wired it just like you but im getting no sound. can you explain how you wired it? which wire goes where? i have a 2 way component system by infiinty. i get sound in the rears but i cant seem to figure out how to do the fronts. stock crossover removed. help!
Hi! I will assume you have not changed anything from the stereo side so that you are only changing the connections in the doors at this point, my guess is that you mixed the pairs of cables that comes out to the mid speaker in the door.
As for this car the connector to (I gonna call the big speaker the woofer) are two pairs one pair of these are the audio signal from the stereo and the other pair is by stock the audio that goes up to the tweeter and if you mix any order of these four wires you won’t get any audio.
I can’t tell what color combination that goes where and they are different on the right and left door as well.
You can track the cables in the door which pair that goes up to the tweeter by default and then you have the pair that should give you the audio figured out, if you have the stock contact left you can also verify that you get the polarity correct so your speakers don’t get out of phase, I can explain a trick to check this with the speaker if you have the right order for the wires if you like.
Anyway should the signal that comes from the stereo be fed into the input of your filters, from the filters you connect the corresponding speaker to the labeled outputs, either way you can reuse the tweeter harness in the door again or install a separate cable for these. and it should work for you. If you need more information let me know. Good luck
@@Pulverrostmannen I have replaced the head unit. I have not yet connected the tweeter. I know where those go. I cant figure out how to connect the woofer. I can send you a photo of what I have. I need to know what wires went to where in your set up. Why do u have wires going into that black hole? Are they going to the woofer? This is driving me nuts that I cant make it work!
@@Pulverrostmannen also, I'm not using the mid range speaker
Melissa Raposo I understand, if I remember correct the pair of wires that goes into the black rubber should be to the woofer from the output of the filter (3 pairs total) one is signal input to the filter, one is woofer out which is going through the rubber to behind the woofer and the third pair to the tweeter.
Unfortunately I don’t have this car anymore since two years back because my engine threw a connecting rod right through the engine block so I don’t have anything left to look at so I only go by memory so to speak.
If you have some pictures I can see better what you have and how it looks. You find my email in this channel info tab, if I type it right here it will just get this answer marked. I can also answer a bit faster by mail also and send you complementary pictures of my car that I should still have on my computer. Mail me and let me know it’s you and we can continue talking from there
How much is maximum depth for speaker to fit with that adapter ring?
That is a good questions. I am not completely sure how much the limit was but you don’t get that much. I think with the rings you got a total somewhere from 7-9cm. Easiest thing you can do if you have the door apart is to lower the window down and measure the distance you get from the ring to the glass and take off a little from that for clearance to know for sure how much space you have for your speaker
Hello,
I'll buy a golf V and I want increase the speackers on the doors.
I like a lot your work, but I have some questions (sorry for my english):
Where can I buy the ring for woofer? And you use external amplifier with the filter or stock radio? thanks a lot
+andreamene94 Hi and thanks for your comment! the adapter rings I have fit in my car is Autoleads SAK-3109, I am not sure were you can buy these in your country but you can probably search for them with the part number.
the setup in my car is wired from the stock head unit (speaker outputs) to a Audison Bit10 that gives me automatic remote to power my amps with along with booth low level out for speakers and subwoofer advanced filters and much more. I use a 4 channel amplifier to power each door and the front system has a passive crossover connected to the tweeter and mid to do the trick. the fine adjustments are then made in the Bit10. you can browse my channel to find more footage of how the system looks. and of course feel free to ask me whatever you may think of with your build and I will try to help you the best way I can
+Pulverrostmannen thanks a lot for share your configuration :)
+andreamene94 It was my pleasure :)
Is it possible to use the old rings/adapter pods ? The one that are already in the car.
Golday ALB yes, I am pretty sure this is possible by removing the cone and magnet of the assembly. Exactly how good or easy speakers then may be fixed in this with further modification or not I'm not sure, but I looked a bit how this would be possible and think 6,5" elements would fit in the hole. The ring itself is about 7" in diameter on the stock speaker
Thank you. I think i can get it done, im going to use these JVC: globe.com.al/product/8970/bokse-makine-jvc-cs-dr1720-
they are 18cmm
Price is about 30 dollars
BTW, i have seen some ppl installing the speakers without the adapter pods, directly to the door panel. Would you recommand that ?
Golday ALB it should be a working set of speakers. I could however recommend using a 2-way kit with separate tweeter so that you can install the tweeter up were you have the stock one, the sound would come pretty far back in the car otherwise and the high frequency would sound a bit weird in the front seats.
Golday ALB not sure how well it will work to mount the speaker directly in the door panel, I think this can result in more vibrations as the panel are pretty soft and there are many places were the backside pressure from the speaker can leak out around the panel and cause unwanted sound eventually.
If you install the same 8" rings I have you will need to remove the seal ring in the door panel anyway and this also calls for some leakage between the panel and the speaker but I have not suffered any bad sound from this.
The positive side of you were to be able and install a smaller speaker in the basket assembly of the stock speaker you would be able to keep the seal ring and get the most stable installation of your speaker
How did you get the input into the crossover from the factory wiring?
I have an extra harness for a Dension GW300 unit behind the head unit that adds support for USB and AUX, I have cut the wires on this harness to connect my speaker wires from the amps to this and this way getting the amps use the stock harness out to the doors, and in the doors I have cut the wires and input these in the filter.
What size screws did you use to replace the factory rivets? Thanks
I used m4 screws with a nut inside the door. The length of the screws was about 3cm but depending what adaptors you have it may differ too. But in terms of the holes you get from the rivets you can use pretty much what you like up to about that size
So i put in a Alpine CDE-164BT in my Jetta MK5, and want to switch the front speakers just as you did. How good will they sound running off of the Alpine stereo , and NOT from a amplifier? I know the Alpine has more power per channel than OEM stereo, but will it be worth it ? Here in the US i only found these closest to what you have as 8'' midwoofers - Rockville RXM84. I can do the swap, but will it be worth it with no separate amplifier? Thanks !
Good day sir! using the type of speakers you shown here would probably sound better than stock if you can make them proper break in but they will by far perform better with a real amplifier connected but they will always play less
deep bass than the stock speaker will and you should be best of using a sub woofer along with the new system. for what I have experience with the stock system is a pretty capable set of speakers actually and they will sound better with the Alpine too. my suggestion is that you swap the head unit and try the sound out before you decide what to do with the speakers.
comparing the stock system with aftermarket one such as the PA style mids here the stock system is sounding rather round with pretty deep and sloppy bass and rather sharp tweeter sound, it can be much adjusted to be better with EQ but the character of the sound will be around this type anyway but still the sound is pretty good in these cars. taking the aftermarket system the bass will be less deep and a bit less but very tight and alert and the snare sound will be very powerful with excellent response, then the choice of tweeters you will have various results here. but in the end you will always be better off using amplifier to power fronts and have a sub in the trunk for best result. however regarding power you will still be able to power your stronger system with the head unit alone but it won't be optimal but it gonna last forever then. hope the information was helpful :)
It does help. Define a proper break in for the front 8'' speakers. How powerfull the amp must be for the speakers i reffered? They will be combined with aftermarjket crossover and tweeters. Or point me where to look it up. Thanks!
The break in time for the mids will depend on how much power and how loud you can play with them, more power and louder volumes will make the break in time shorter but it may also be harmful for the speaker if too much power is used right away. A proper break in period should start with a gentle volume and over time increase of average volume to allow the suspension to get softer with more and more excursion to make it final condition. for example giving the speaker too much power right away may burn voice coil and give it too little and it will never break in so a combination is always the best result in the end. now using a head unit to power the aftermarket powerful mids are very unlikely to burn the coil anyway but it may take a very long time before they settle in to sound correctly too. normally we talk about 20-100 hours playtime depending on speaker and method of doing this. sometimes we are in a hurry or just really impatient or in the reach of a competition and just have to play now I use a method not recommended that may do damage if not proper care is taken that I call burst or impulse break in method which practically means to give the speaker a really high amount of power for a very short time (without bottom it out) and repeat this with time in between to let the coil cool down and afterwards play it on the limit of overheat with maximum possible power and excursion (using low bass tracks and strong distanced kicks) to make a superfast break in either in the car or using other amps to break it in before I put it in the car, but as you probably understand it is not optimal and may lead to less good result in the long run so it is considered a emergency solution so to speak. But I use to make a combination for a good compromise here so.
Regarding the choice of amplifier you would be very good of with a Class A or AB with about 75Wrms per channel for a really decent combo with both power and stability, But you can use a class D or B as well and it be fine, (maybe 2x150watt for a class B though) I used up to 150RMS Class A on my front system here and the speakers did take some damage during the years but never broke from it either but as I competed in audio I was pushing the limits all the time to retarded levels so it was expected to happen but it last way longer than I ever thought it would, the audio survived my car which got an engine failure and broke totally on me this summer, I don't have it anymore now :(
Hi, does someone know whats the size of the front speakers on skoda fabia 2001 combi? Thank you
Milivoje Peric not as far as I know, maybe you can search for it on the web or talk with a local dealer if they can find out about it
I have some JBL 6.5 mid-bass in my doors on my 2001 Passat.....Would 8" mid-bass give me more bass? Thanks.
Most likely yes. in general more cone area means more sound but it also depends on the speaker itself. as for the B2 HN8 I use here that is more like a PA speaker has less deep bass than the stock speakers but it has way more controlled and slapping bass hitting you in the chest alone and especially the snare sounds which goes really good along with the subwoofer in the trunk. a normal 8" woofer/mid would give more bass but not as much accoustic sound.
but personally I like to use 8" drivers in the front doors along with a big nice silk tweeters :)
Grym video ! Men det jag undrar är vad är det för plast "distans" för 8 tummaren ? Och hur fick du fast den sen med tanke på avståndet mellan distansen och dörren ? Eller var det bara långa skruvar ? Tack i förhand :D
Tjenare! Det är Autoleads SAK-3109 som passar, jag har monterat dom i befintliga hålbilden med skruv och mutter med silikon mellan dörr och distans. Sen drar man högtalaren i distansens egna hålbild. Distansen har en färdig hålbild för dörren med men man kommer inte ner med poppnit där för dom är långt ner i plasten därför drog jag med skruvar istället
Where did you purchase that ring at for the door?
I bought these at a local car audio store when I built this system. Autoleads SAK-3109. They fit 8” elements. Maybe you can order them if you search for this number
did your car not come with the 4" speaker in between the 6,5 and tweeter?
Kale G. Nope it came without it, the 3-way system is optional on these cars. But I did not suffer from that either because two good drivers will sound really good without the middle one
Hi, i just bought some 8" speakers, brackets, and aftermarket speaker adaptors. What size screws/bolts did you use to mount? Thanks.
I used through hole m4 screws with nuts on the backside to mount the adaptor rings. Not sure about the length as this may differ from your adaptors. But they can be pretty long without affecting anything on the backside
@@Pulverrostmannen thanks for the info. my adaptors look like the ones you have and was trying to decide if i should use nuts or not. screws for the speaker to adaptor are m4 size as well?
First Name Last Name sorry for the late reply but I did not get any notice about this message it seems, but m4 or m5 will work good either way as far as I know. But you will easier get down the hole with smaller screws. I am pretty sure I used m4 myself
@@Pulverrostmannen Thanks. Did this successfully last year. Now about to do the rears. Only problem I am having is harsh midrange after installing a chinese android head unit. Very hard to root....
First Name Last Name my recommendation in the rear doors would be to use a coaxial speaker and ditch the separate tweeter instead. In my case I just disconnected them completely instead and played with all the power at the fronts instead. The reason for this is because the placement of the tweeter is right in your left ear when you drive and it is not a pleasant experience. So if you want a better less harsh sound don’t use a separate tweeter in the back door and you gonna see better results at the front
he he, what can I say, I like it loud ^__^ your wish has been noted. I know there are some videos on youtube how to get the panel off but maybe not be the best ones. subscribe my channel and i may see if i can add some more videos on this car. also going to change the rear speakers some time and then I will make a better video to show more steps as the videos on that are as i know more or less zero. thanks for your comment and watching my video
Thanks! I use the stock wires from behind the headunit to the doors only.
I have amps connected in the trunk and use ISO connections I built to connect to that harness :) thanks for watching!
So you run from your headunit wires to the amp and the RCA kabels to the headunit again? or am i wrong?
McnetromKings I had it connected speaker output on the head unit to an audio processor that made RCA output to my amps. The amplifier speaker outputs then was fed back to behind the stereo but not connected back to the head unit. But to make it easier connected to the speaker leads that went out to the respective door from there
what are the original sizes for the factory speakers?
Miguel Ortiz the actual cone size of the original mids pretty much equals a regular 8" speaker but the form factor it has is without the mounting ring for screws that makes it about 1 inch smaller in total diameter at the top. This makes the new 8" adapters not fit with the seal tube that is in the door panel and this has to be removed to fit the new speakers
where did you buy those rings for the speakers?
I got these rings from a local car audio store, the rings are: Autoleads, part number SAK-3109. search this and you may find a dealer near you that can deliver these to you
Damn very good job there!I wanna ask smthing that im sure you will know..Do you need to speaker ring for the rear speakers also?
+Johny V yes there should be a ring kit for the rear doors too, my rear speakers are smaller than the fronts and I got this kit here that I am not yet tested but that should fit in there 165MM : ACV 271320-12 thanks for your comment
Nah my mk5 had no speakers in the rear, i just bought some 6.5 inch speakers and installed them without any adapters. Cheers
@@_Drekavac_ yeah no need adapter if 2 door but 4 door yes
@@Keijotti no mine is 4 door
@@_Drekavac_ hmm intresting maybe your speaker are so slim ;)
Eu tenho um Golf 5 também e eu queria saber o tamanho das colunas da frente. Pode me dizer?
I also have a Golf 5 and I wanted to know the size of the speakers of the front. It can say me?
+Jonny gonçalves The front speakers I mount here is 8 Inch, the stock speakers are technically the same size but without the ring with the mount holes that you have on normal speakers, that makes the stock speaker fit in the seal ring on the door panel. the tweeter I use here is a 40mm Silk dome tweeter.
What power has the original speaker ?
I would say about 50watts max. Not very powerful when it’s a stock system but it gives a decent volume per watt anyway
Where did u get the kit from and how kuch
These are “autoleads sak-3109” adaptors. I bought these in a local store back then. If you google that you might find them on eBay for around 40 bucks. This might give you a start at least. You can probably find them elsewhere too for different price. Good luck with your build
I want to replace all 3 speakers in my front doors.
What are the sizes of the speakers?
+Bryan Van Overmeire
small tweeters infront. Most tweeters will work.
4" middle
6,5" lower largest.
+Bryan Van Overmeire sorry for late response, this comment was not notified for me in any way, for tweeters you may use up to 40mm silk dome tweeter of most types easy, the woofers can right away be changed with adapters to 6,5" and also 8" if you cut off the seal tube in the panel, the mids in the middle is more hard to get and i think 3,5" is the factory default with a very narrow space for magnet and stuff
Why not add mids as well? My Golf 5 has 10 speakers, 3 in each front door
ntube7 there are two reasons why I did not build a 3-way system.
First is that the mount hole for the mid is very small and you won't be able to fit in a decent speaker without cutting out the hole in the door.
Second is that it is really not needed with the combination of speakers I chose in the end, the 40mm silk dome tweeters has a very wide and clear range of sound and also the 8" elements I use. This in combination with the audio processor and ClassA amplifier makes it sound like it really is a mid in the empty hole and when out at the competition events I many times get asked what mids I use. There are non there is my answer.
It gets cheaper using two way filters and less complex to build and still sounds simply wonderful using a really good 2-way front system in this car.
That's my opinion at least.
But when compared to the stock 2-way system my car had I also very much wanted the extra mid in the door to be there at first.
Where did you get your 8” speaker adapters from mate?
I got mine from a local car audio store. The model is: Autoleads SAK-3109. A search for this product number should give you options where to get them in your country :) happy build
@@Pulverrostmannen thank you very much fast and helpful information 👍
@@karlfeast no problem, always happy to help!
Hey bro what are the middle speaker grills is the door for?
These cars could be equipped with the bigger 3-way system which includes the third middle element which fit in that part. However is that space incredibly shallow so you won’t be able to fit many things in that space
@@Pulverrostmannen okay I think my car has this system in it, do you know what size the drivers are?
@panda1412 the subs are likely the same 7” speakers which is actually just a regular 8” speaker but without the outer rim. I think the middle speakers are about 120mm shallow mount mid. For tweeters you can mount pretty much any size dome tweeter if you cut away the plastic the stock one sit in
I don't know what my stock alternator power is, but I'm getting 1500watt monoblock for 1300watt sub and 2000 watt 4 channel, with 4 6.5" components rated at 450 watt peak per speaker.. With that power do you reckon I should change my alternator for something a little more powerful, and maybe the battery too? I'm not really in the mood to pay my audio shop or garage to inspect my car lol.
it depends what engine you have in the car, on my 1,9TDI I have a stock alternator with 140A and it is well enough to power my 4KW sub amp and 4 channel amp and I have one extra battery. you may pop the hood and have a look at the alternator and see what it can deliver by looking at the sticker on the alternator.
sounds like you gotten a very powerful 4 channel amp but i still think you may come far with a 90A alternator if you have a extra battery and maybe support charge the batteries sometimes.
I powered 4KW system with my old car that had a 90A alternator but then I had 3 new 100AH batteries in the same little golf MK4 lol and I only charged to be sure they were not drained sometimes but it worked just fine even without that. it takes some rather loud constant volume before you start to drain more continuous power than the alternator deliver but there is always a limit where this is bound to happen. A volt meter is very useful to have control of this
+Pulverrostmannen I've got 1.6 petrol.. I guess my alternator might be enough, but I'm the kind of person who has OCD for things to be more than enough lol.. If 100amp is enough then I'd prefer 120amp alt.. I always like that extra comfort because I don't like straining my equipment. I have been thinking, I want a powerful Alt and battery so I don't need to add more batteries, I don't a like to add weight to my car either, so anything I add I'm trying to keep it as light as possible. No spare wheel in the back either.. I like golf doors too, easiest things to sound deaden. I'm taking my time to plan this install, I want everything right so I can knock it all in at once next month.
indeed, bigger and more is always better when it comes to power supplies, good luck with your build
Mine are crackling and popping from time to time
could be reaching the end maybe, my stock ones last about one year with amplifier until the paper coils started to warp
What size 8 inch speaker can be fitted, as in mounting depth of speaker? Thanks
Shaun Borg I think it was some around 7-8 cm depth but I'm not sure how much space it was from the edge of the ring to the window when it was all the way down. I could measure the rings for you and you will have a margin inwards of that measure. But for the time I'm more than 1500km away from the rings I'm afraid
Thanks, the rings are usually 2 inches which is about 5cm, so how i've seen about 6cm depth, max 7cm, what speakers would fit ?
Shaun Borg hard to tell exact what would fit well without the measure. Though I'm very happy with the ones I mounted in my car here. "B2 Audio HN8" they are less than 7cm in depth, 61mm is what I can find now. I can measure this weekend if you like to verify this speaker. If you have a subwoofer in your car I recommend these elements. If you have not and plan to play more bass with the front system other speakers may be better. They are very acoustic and loud with clear and powerful snares and rapid kicks but they lack the deep bass properties as they have very small X-Max
Pulverrostmannen thanks :) what would you recommend, would not like to add an additional sub on the back, just need a bit more punch than stock.
very good question, it would make it easier to decide if I could only know the exact depth limit but I may show you a few speakers you can have a look on here that has various specifications:
Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8.
Hertz SV 200.1.
Pioneer TS-SW2002D2.
SPL Dynamics SPL-8Fe
Main song is "Mayhem's Theme (Dubstep) - Don Ellis" and some stuff I made myself, you find links in the description :) thanks for your comment
stock alternator? tried measure voltage drop under heavy load?
Yes I still use the stock alternator (140A) I have one extra 80Ah 800A (EN) AGM battery in the trunk down in a dedicated battery box that my car had under the floor that has short thick cables directly to the fuse block. with this battery and the extra power from the front battery i have a bit above 1000A (EN) measured at the fuse block. the max current drawn by the amps are around 400A at full power. the voltage the batteries can keep under load then is somewhere between 11-12 volts for a certain amount of time depending of temperature and other things.
if i would go play crazy loud for long periods is is bound to go lower too eventually.
after about 3 years of heavy use I had the lights go very dim pretty quick even at moderate volumes and I thought the rear battery was done for. because I compete and literally play loud every now and then. I was down to 600A on the fuseblock when I measure. when I took the old battery out and inspected the stuff I find that the 50mm2 OFC cables had actually worn out from the current. so new 70mm2 OFC cables and industrial terminals along with a new battery I had again restored all the power, and it works well now. so good cables are good for low drops he he
thanks for the detailed information. Im thinking of throwing my old setup into my mk5 gti i recently bought. Its nothing crazy. But my old car charging 90A with a 75ah battery and 1f capasitor could not keep up with the setup and i had voltage drops down to 10v while playing loud.
Now i wish to keep use my subs. 600rms, then im thinking of running 150wrms on each door (4 doors).
should i keep using capasitors, or throw them away and use my old 75ah battery, or use both?
would the stock system on gti manage fine with no drops?
+Fungist aka (B-laze) you could use both battery and the capacitor. However when you have a high end system with high output the capacitor will only handle some fast transients you may have but in the end the battery is better to have as close to the amp as possible. Also make sure that the battery is healthy. It is possible you have a good voltage in the battery but under load you may get very big drops even if the battery should handle it due to low current capacity in the battery due to old age or other things.
If you have a digital battery tester that test the health with load is good to use to see if the battery has atleast 80% or more of it's designed EN or CCA amps and you should be good to go.
The stock speaker system will play good for a while if you would have 150RMS on each door. But if you play at louder volumes it will wear out pretty fast and you will need to replace the speakers. I had my system on Class A 75RMS per channel and the speakers died after about one year
alright. starting with just the mono amp and the sub tomorrow. zero gauge from the front to back. Just not looking forward to making the amp cable stealth as i just got my gti and are very fresh on this ride. I will look into finding a nice spot for the battery a bit later. Hopefully i might be fine with just the subs right now.
Do you actually know the specs for the stock speakers? i do have a amp lying around here. 4 channel 90wrms @4ohm. would it be a big difference with the stock speakers you think? also, the cables that are on the 3way system in the door, how much juice can they handle without going for something thicker?
Fungist aka (B-laze) you probably don't have the extra battery box as you have the GTI with dual exhaust I would think.
my guess on the front speakers they are like 50 watts each. they are 7" speakers with the same cone size as 8" elements (they are without the surrounding ring for mounting like normal speakers has)
I am not sure how long your speakers would last with 90RMS, they would play really much louder and better with the amp connected but last not as long if you would play as loud as I do all the time. I had my speakers on Class A 75RMS each and they last about one year for me on the fronts with that, booth mids and tweeters suffer from total annihilation but played really good until they gave up. If you would play not all power they would last longer but they have paper voicecoil that can''t take the heat and miss shapes.
for now as my rear door stock speaker also broke after 2 years use I decided to connect my amp bridged on the front system only for 150RMS per channel and have been playing like that for quite the while and my stock wires has been fine for the load so far and it plays so much you would not even know the rears are not playing anymore. but i have changed all the harness in the door along with the filters as you see in this video, but I still play with the very same speakers and filters today and they still runs fine
Where can I find the bracket
The rings I got was: Autoleads SAK-3109. You can try to search for these and see if you have a local dealer or site that can get these for you
Where can I find theses piece???
I added a link in this video describtion for you to that guide
can it also play music?
Not anymore. connecting rod broke and engine exploded at 147000km and ruined my life my economy and my system. I have a few other videos when it played other stuff
what tweeter size you use for the front door?
The tweeters I put in my car is 40mm Silk dome
Pulverrostmannen did you install the same ones in the rear doors?
I have actually not changed the rear system, at first I played with the big new front system along with the stock speakers in the rear doors, but the fact that I could not even tell if the rear doors played along or not after this in the end, even when one of the rear mids blew after some time it was not even noticeable. I ended up routing all power to the front system instead to make it even louder than before. and to be frank, everyone that been in my car shows the same confusing face when they ask what speakers I have in the rear doors and I tell them they don't even play anything. the sound from the fronts gets so loud and clear in the whole car it was not yet worth the effort to change the rears as they are smaller than the fronts. I think this works because the mids are so far back in the front doors they transfer the sound backwards as well.
I think a better front system is worth more in the end on this car, but naturally you will get even more with a maybe almost equal system in the back too. but that's likely a matter personal taste
Did you still out the rivets?
+Bigchuck678 yes, the rivets has to be removed completely. then you use the same holes to mount the new distance
+Pulverrostmannen I meant to say how did you remove them? did you drill them out?
Where did you get adapter ring?
Mount rings for 8" speaker: Autoleads SAK-3109, Not sure if they are still available or not but I got mine from my local car audio shop :)
Wondering if this will be a good setup with aftermarket head unit puts out 4*45W power or maybe downsize to 6 3/4” in the front. I’m not sure what size the stock speakers are in the lower front door.
@@simonkozy7918 The stock speakers have the equal size of 8” woofer but it does not have the outer rim so in reality the total diameter is like 7”. The Aftermarket 8” speakers have a bit wider total diameter so the funnels you have in the panels will no longer fit over the new woofer and you have to remove them.
But in general you get a lot better bass response if you go with the bigger speaker with the caveat you have to remove the funnel. Power wise I actually got pretty much sound with the speakers I used even with the stock head unit.
I kept my original but I upgraded it with a module to get a USB interface. It was a quirky solution but it works with the steering wheel buttons and the dashboard display to use your stock head unit. It’s a give and take
The rings came with the speakers ?
No, the rings are purchased separately. for 8" drivers you may buy Autoleads SAK-3109 on your local store. these are the ones I use here :)
Thank you :)
Is it possible to use the old rings/adapter pods ?
What happen to the 4" bellow the tweeter
Most of the MK5 comes without the 3way system. As it is hard to fit an aftermarket speaker well there I decided to keep going with a two way system and put more money on the mids and tweeters instead and it turned out to work very well actually
Thanks very well presented 2 thumbs up
howard boone Thank you good sir :)
You didn't show if you had to do a cut out on the door panel...for the size difference.
light foot there is a ring in the door panel that is put in place with a few plastic welds, remove this and the new stuff will fit. Yes some sound is gonna stay behind the grid but it was not something that made things sounding worse anyway
How to take off ???
cine e sefu ? primul the speaker is sitting with rivets you drill out,
And if you need help taking off the door panel you can watch my separate video for that :)
wot is the music?
+Dylan Jenkins Main music that play in this video is made by Don Ellis Music, and some that I made myself. you find links in the description. thanks for watching sir
Does the stock radio put out enough power? I heard its recommended to upgrade to a 4 channel amp or something to increase sound quality. But I'm now sure how much power is needed.
If you like to use the stock head unit I would also recommend to use a separate amplifier to get better sound.
even with stock speakers it was a big difference to use a Bit10 and a 4 channel amp in my car. but the life may get short on those stock speakers if you gonna play extreme like I do but the fronts last over a year for me anyway. but if you plan to change the speakers go for a 4 channel amp too. A bit10 or other audio processor is nifty to use as you can use speaker power on and get a remote power for your amps and also way better sound and filter options etc. combined with a Dension GW-300 I got USB/AUX and extra stuff for my dashboard display to play with and the car still look unchanged :) my amp is rated Class: A/B 4x70WRMS at 4 ohms and plays loud enough to damage your ears
Wow thanks for all the help. It does sound kind of confusing since I'm an amateur at installing car audio. I might just bring my car to someone professional to do it. Most likely i will install new speakers, radio, and amp like you said. Thanks again!
Thomas Tran Glad I could help at least a bit :) good luck with your build
hi what song are you playing
Main song is Mayhem's Theme by Don Ellis Mayhem's Theme (Dubstep) - Don Ellis . and some of my own stuff in between :)
Pulverrostmannen cheers mate
talismania81
You're welcome :)
This is what not to do in a MK5 rabbit/ GTI or Jetta. The midbass woofer is too far back in the door to just replace the 3 way component set with a 2 way. You need a large midrange driver up front of you to have a proper image. I’m sure this has pretty good bass, but imaging is not good. Poor SQ. If you could have found a 3 way with an 8 inch midbass woofer, then that would have been awesome.
You are true but only to some extent. The fact is that this system had incredible SQ even if it was “only two-way” however if a speaker system is good enough your sound comes out from the door and you won’t even hear where the sound is coming from but this is only possible with good speakers.
The truth about my system was that the sound came out so good it even sounded like there really was a speaker in the empty middle slot because the audio blended so well in from the tweeters and mids the audio picture was forming further to the front. But I also used the audio processor to calibrate the audio with distance and other stuff. So the woofer position way back like this was not a problem for me at least. But the bigger problem was the tweeter in the rear doors which’s position is right in your left ear while driving was not pleasant so either skip it or don’t use the rears at all. I only used the front doors in the end because the audio was so big it was not a problem in the back anyway.
But I don’t have the car anymore. The engine blew and I lost everything so the audio became my least problem with the car in the end
@@Pulverrostmannen a two way component set can sound damn good, but it depends on the drivers and speaker placement. Because of the stock speaker placement you have to have that midrange that you deleted placed in front of you to have proper imaging.
song?
The song is unfortunately no longer available and I have not been able to check if I can source it myself
@@Pulverrostmannen oh nooo :(
@@Keijotti sorry :( But if you want to listen to some unique music you are welcome to check my other channel Powertoast Music. I made a lot of music so maybe you find something that suits you there :)
Good day, I have some news for you and the link to this song should now work again! you find it in the description :)
@@Pulverrostmannen yyeeey, thank you