May I say a big thankyou for your excellent video series without which I couldn't have completed my Senior 20.I would also like to award you with the "Understatement of the Year" regarding your comments on the quality of the J.Smith plans!
Hi Ron, catching up on this great series. I've had good results adhering polyurethane rod sections to a wood surface coated with polyurethane varnish (water-based) using "Weldwood" contact cement.
Great instructional video. I would like to learn more about thicknesses of leather for certain size bellows, and if rubberized cotton works just as well. Thanks
I have an entire series on building the Senior 20 and all of the videos are in a playlist which makes it easier to find them. A good quality lambskin in general is the description. Thickness is going to vary and probably is not as important and placing it on a light table or holding it up to a bright window to determine there are no holes or thin spots. I would not recommend "blackout cloth" or rubberized cloth. A friend used rubberized cloth for an organ and it developed holes in the corners and edges where there is repetitive flexing. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
I can not wait for your next video! I ordered a JS Busker 42 days ago, but still waiting. If I knew the advantages I had bought the other. Regards from Brazil
jrmichel I assume you saw my videos on the test build of the Busker bellows and reservoir. I think you will be happy with the Busker. The Senior 20 is just a bit larger. Build the Busker with patience and pay attention to details (like sealing everything) and it will be a fun organ.
Ronald Walters I will try to be perfectionist like you! Is my best friend Christmas gift. After this first one, I intend to build a midi organ, as soon I get the pipe dimensions.
Great videos Ronald, thank you for doing them. The 8 holes in each of the bellows are they in exactly the same place on each board or are they slightly offset ? thank you
The holes are the same in each board. This can be seen in the following video. Senior 20 Organ (02) Bellows & Reservoir Part 2 czcams.com/video/01FhMb93ChQ/video.html Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
Hi Ronald, I know it's mentioned on the plan book, and you've mentioned it prior at one point or another, but I can not find where it mentions what thickness of organ leather I should be using for the bellows and reservoir, and what quantity I should be guying. Could you please oblige me? Thanks,
If you think the leather would make a nice saddle or a pair of boots, it is too thick. If it would make a nice jacket or pair of driving gloves, it is closer to the correct thickness. Roughly 1mm (0.035”-0.040”) sheepskin lambskin, good quality, a younger skin is more flexible and pliable. Not all are acceptable as when processed the fleshing and scraping is often done carelessly, leaving gouges holes and thin spots. One of obvious even thickness is desirable. Find a good, large, reputable leather store and do the old touchy, feely, squeezy thing. Take your time. The people in the leather store probably will have no idea what is correct for bellows leather, you’re on your own. Take a bright flashlight with you. Hold the skin over your head and look up at the store ceiling lights. Hold the skin up against the store glass window on a bright sunny day. (Watch this video again.) When you get it home and find a hole or thin spot, that is too late. You may want to take your templates with you as a size reference. You can get it from an organ supplier where you’d be depending on someone else to select a good piece of leather, it will be very expensive, and I think it not necessary for what we are building. The people in the leather store I went to were probably ready to throw me out by the time I selected what I wanted.
I am going to start building a Senior 20 soon and have watched all your videos and they will be very helpful. I was just wonder what thickness and type plywood you used. I is it the same that is called out in John Smiths drawings? Thanks
ultraliter Just about everything is made of 1/4 inch plywood. One end of the pressure box is 1/2 inch ply and the sides of the pressure box lid are 1/2 inch ply. I used Baltic Birch plywood for everything. The front, back and two sides of all the pipes could all be made of 1/8 inch Baltic Birch plywood and that would save a lot of time. The covers could then be made of an attractive hardwood of your choice. I followed the drawings. My building sequence was pretty much as the videos are numbered.John's plans can often leave you scratching your head. Referring back to my videos where you can see the item in question being made should get you back on course. Have fun!
Did you say you got your leather from a local shop? Is there a good online source for organ leather for this purpose? Columbia organ only show small 4 to 6 sq ft skins which are not big enough for even one bellow pattern
Columbia Organ have been helpful. I purchased my fish glue from them. They can probably sell you whatever size leather you are looking for but it will be expensive. Somewhere, you can find a leather shop and go in and look at good quality sheep skins. Hold them it up to the light or up against a glass window and inspect for any holes or thin spots. Some skins are a bit carelessly processed, so be selective. Helps if you have already drawn out your templates and have a good idea what size you are looking for.
Hi Ronald, i hope this message finds you in good health. do you have any idea where is can get/find the plans for the organ? The site of Jay seams to be down forever.
ultraliter OK... First you need to read ALL of the written instructions (3 or 4 times) and review the plans (every page 3 or 4 times) until YOU have a thorough understanding of how this organ works and how it is going to go together BEFORE you start building anything. Only then should you start construction as this will save you a lot of grief later on. On page 8 at the top of the page APPENDIX he explains the alternate or improved valve design for the bellows.
In terms of the Tacky Glue holding up... in a cool dry environment, it and the Fish Glue should hold up just fine. If you let things get wet or in an excessively humid climate, there could be a problem but I don't think so. Probably a better chance of the cardboard card stock delaminating or coming apart first. The fish glue can be detached with water if necessary (such as for repairs). I have not tried the Tacky Glue. I mention the Fish Glue used to attach the leather in other videos and there is a brief strength demonstration video on the Fish Glue. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
ultraliter There are 10 pages of written instructions which come with every set of plans for the Senior 20. The drawings are then pages 11 through 26. If you do not have a complete or original set of plans you need to contact John Smith to obtain them. The alternate valves are explained on page 8 where is says APPENDIX at the top of the page. The cover sheet for the plans should also contain the serial number issued by John Smith authorizing the construction of your organ.
Sorry to bother you again but my plans have a Conductor built in the middle of the front pipes and not all the pipes you have. I just sent an email to John Smith to find out what is going on. Thanks Again
ultraliter The original Senior 20 has the conductor in front with 5 pipes on each side. The rest of the pipes were under the pressure box and in the back of the organ. Not everyone wants to build the conductor. My configuration is without the conductor and 17 pipes are in front with 3 pipes in the back. The organ was made 2 inches deeper so the long pipes in the front will clear the reservoir and bellows.
.It certainly seems to me, that the cardboard that you're using may not be the ideal material to use. You are obviously doing first-class workmanship, but with the cardboard failing and delaminating in such short order before the part is even put in the service, I would have serious doubts about the serviceability of it long-term.
I admire your tenacity and patience! Something I lack. Thanks for sharing.
Wow. I am very envious of your patience and hand work!
May I say a big thankyou for your excellent video series without which I couldn't have completed my Senior 20.I would also like to award you with the "Understatement of the Year" regarding your comments on the quality of the J.Smith plans!
Funny! I was having a bad day today and you made me laugh. :-)
Thank you... and for watching and for subscribing. Ron
I can not wait to see more of this organ. I am fascinated by the mechanics of it.
Thank You for your quick response. I will start gathering my materials now.
Hi Ron, catching up on this great series. I've had good results adhering polyurethane rod sections to a wood surface coated with polyurethane varnish (water-based) using "Weldwood" contact cement.
Great instructional video. I would like to learn more about thicknesses of leather for certain size bellows, and if rubberized cotton works just as well. Thanks
I have an entire series on building the Senior 20 and all of the videos are in a playlist which makes it easier to find them. A good quality lambskin in general is the description. Thickness is going to vary and probably is not as important and placing it on a light table or holding it up to a bright window to determine there are no holes or thin spots. I would not recommend "blackout cloth" or rubberized cloth. A friend used rubberized cloth for an organ and it developed holes in the corners and edges where there is repetitive flexing. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
I can not wait for your next video! I ordered a JS Busker 42 days ago, but still waiting. If I knew the advantages I had bought the other. Regards from Brazil
jrmichel I assume you saw my videos on the test build of the Busker bellows and reservoir. I think you will be happy with the Busker. The Senior 20 is just a bit larger. Build the Busker with patience and pay attention to details (like sealing everything) and it will be a fun organ.
Ronald Walters
I will try to be perfectionist like you! Is my best friend Christmas gift. After this first one, I intend to build a midi organ, as soon I get the pipe dimensions.
Great videos Ronald, thank you for doing them. The 8 holes in each of the bellows are they in exactly the same place on each board or are they slightly offset ? thank you
The holes are the same in each board. This can be seen in the following video.
Senior 20 Organ (02) Bellows & Reservoir Part 2
czcams.com/video/01FhMb93ChQ/video.html
Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Hi Ronald, I know it's mentioned on the plan book, and you've mentioned it prior at one point or another, but I can not find where it mentions what thickness of organ leather I should be using for the bellows and reservoir, and what quantity I should be guying. Could you please oblige me? Thanks,
If you think the leather would make a nice saddle or a pair of boots, it is too thick. If it would make a nice jacket or pair of driving gloves, it is closer to the correct thickness. Roughly 1mm (0.035”-0.040”) sheepskin lambskin, good quality, a younger skin is more flexible and pliable. Not all are acceptable as when processed the fleshing and scraping is often done carelessly, leaving gouges holes and thin spots. One of obvious even thickness is desirable. Find a good, large, reputable leather store and do the old touchy, feely, squeezy thing. Take your time. The people in the leather store probably will have no idea what is correct for bellows leather, you’re on your own. Take a bright flashlight with you. Hold the skin over your head and look up at the store ceiling lights. Hold the skin up against the store glass window on a bright sunny day. (Watch this video again.) When you get it home and find a hole or thin spot, that is too late. You may want to take your templates with you as a size reference. You can get it from an organ supplier where you’d be depending on someone else to select a good piece of leather, it will be very expensive, and I think it not necessary for what we are building. The people in the leather store I went to were probably ready to throw me out by the time I selected what I wanted.
I am going to start building a Senior 20 soon and have watched all your videos and they will be very helpful. I was just wonder what thickness and type plywood you used. I is it the same that is called out in John Smiths drawings?
Thanks
ultraliter Just about everything is made of 1/4 inch plywood. One end of the pressure box is 1/2 inch ply and the sides of the pressure box lid are 1/2 inch ply. I used Baltic Birch plywood for everything. The front, back and two sides of all the pipes could all be made of 1/8 inch Baltic Birch plywood and that would save a lot of time. The covers could then be made of an attractive hardwood of your choice. I followed the drawings. My building sequence was pretty much as the videos are numbered.John's plans can often leave you scratching your head. Referring back to my videos where you can see the item in question being made should get you back on course. Have fun!
sir plz tell me how to make a harmonium
Did you say you got your leather from a local shop? Is there a good online source for organ leather for this purpose? Columbia organ only show small 4 to 6 sq ft skins which are not big enough for even one bellow pattern
Columbia Organ have been helpful. I purchased my fish glue from them. They can probably sell you whatever size leather you are looking for but it will be expensive. Somewhere, you can find a leather shop and go in and look at good quality sheep skins. Hold them it up to the light or up against a glass window and inspect for any holes or thin spots. Some skins are a bit carelessly processed, so be selective. Helps if you have already drawn out your templates and have a good idea what size you are looking for.
Hi Ronald, i hope this message finds you in good health. do you have any idea where is can get/find the plans for the organ? The site of Jay seams to be down forever.
Google John Smith organ ... www.johnsmithbusker.co.uk/senior20.html
Click on whichever organ you are interested or click on ordering.
Why do you have 8 holes in a row instead of what in the plans?
Thanks
ultraliter OK... First you need to read ALL of the written instructions (3 or 4 times) and review the plans (every page 3 or 4 times) until YOU have a thorough understanding of how this organ works and how it is going to go together BEFORE you start building anything. Only then should you start construction as this will save you a lot of grief later on. On page 8 at the top of the page APPENDIX he explains the alternate or improved valve design for the bellows.
What are the prospects of the Tacky Glue lasting decades like the original hyde glues?
In terms of the Tacky Glue holding up... in a cool dry environment, it and the Fish Glue should hold up just fine. If you let things get wet or in an excessively humid climate, there could be a problem but I don't think so. Probably a better chance of the cardboard card stock delaminating or coming apart first. The fish glue can be detached with water if necessary (such as for repairs). I have not tried the Tacky Glue. I mention the Fish Glue used to attach the leather in other videos and there is a brief strength demonstration video on the Fish Glue. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks Ron, food (or glue) for thought. Subscribed.
Sorry but my plans show nothing about the "Improved Valve". I have read the plans several times.
ultraliter There are 10 pages of written instructions which come with every set of plans for the Senior 20. The drawings are then pages 11 through 26. If you do not have a complete or original set of plans you need to contact John Smith to obtain them. The alternate valves are explained on page 8 where is says APPENDIX at the top of the page. The cover sheet for the plans should also contain the serial number issued by John Smith authorizing the construction of your organ.
I want leather please send me
Pliobond should stick to PU varnish.
Sorry to bother you again but my plans have a Conductor built in the middle of the front pipes and not all the pipes you have. I just sent an email to John Smith to find out what is going on. Thanks Again
ultraliter The original Senior 20 has the conductor in front with 5 pipes on each side. The rest of the pipes were under the pressure box and in the back of the organ. Not everyone wants to build the conductor. My configuration is without the conductor and 17 pipes are in front with 3 pipes in the back. The organ was made 2 inches deeper so the long pipes in the front will clear the reservoir and bellows.
.It certainly seems to me, that the cardboard that you're using may not be the ideal material to use. You are obviously doing first-class workmanship, but with the cardboard failing and delaminating in such short order before the part is even put in the service, I would have serious doubts about the serviceability of it long-term.