KnifeCenter FAQ #95: Thick Knives vs Thin Knives?
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- Keep your edge sharp, of course, but geometry is what does the cutting. But does it matter if the blade is thick or thin, or even if it’s tall? Plus, we’ll explore knives for apple picking, whether flipper tabs wear out the pocket, and a knife worthy of taking on the Predator.
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Spyderco Endela: kcoti.com/3pZl3oJ
CIVIVI Cogent: kcoti.com/3ebqAGj
ArtisanCutlery Proponent: kcoti.com/3B1eFnh
ESEE Avispa: kcoti.com/3e4vQeF
Hogue Deka: kcoti.com/3KGzaJd
Benchmade TaggedOut: kcoti.com/3Txqx7E
Opinel N08 Outdoor: kcoti.com/3dYN2Cf
Jason Knight Custom Forged Fuller Chopper: kcoti.com/3Q49Td7
0:00 Intro
0:48 Geometry Cuts
3:32 Does Blade Height Matter?
5:49 Thin Blade Stock
10:59 Apple Knives?
12:18 Flipper Tabs - Pocket Friendly?
13:32 If It Bleeds, We Get to the Choppa
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🤣Dude the animated intro is so dumb! I love it haha. I used to watch knife banter, but I don't like it anymore since zac and ben left. This is all I watch now 🤘
Right down my alley! 😂👌
Tougher blade, thinner steel. Modern super steels should be used to make very thin slicey knives. Even survival knives can be much thinner with crazy strong modern steels
Benchmade has really embraced this philosophy with M4 and Cruwear in the Bailout, Shootout and Anonimus.
A heavier .250" stock survival can be desirable in a lot of situations for the weight alone.
Thats not entirely accurate. Sometimes a thicker blade can have certain benefits. For example, if you want a folding knife to have some better outdoor utility, a thicker and heavier blade can be helpful. Whether its for push cuts or light delimbing, an AD 10 will do those jobs better than a Bugout.
Also, sometimes you want a thicker tip for drilling or prying rather than a thinner tip for stabbing penetration.
Different things are different, and there are always compromises in any knife.
All comes down to purpose. I see 'super steels' creating more options rather than replacing existing ones. For example, some users out there might have been avoiding survival style knives due to size & weight. With super steels allowing for thinner & lighter blades, maybe these users now have options that interest them. I suspect cost will be an issue for larger blades as super steels are $$$ and often hard to work with.Great point though & have a great day!
@@tarinindell8217 prying with any knife is not something you should be doing. Thats not what a knife is designed to do.
Also the OP is just _suggesting_ that there should be more options to knives that are made thinner with all the modern super steels available. With that being said i tend to agree with his opinion, if your knife needs to be thicker the chances are it is because its made with an inferior type of steel, of which will more likely dull and or break, especially if your using it to pry open anything...
If you want a really thin blade stock on a knife you can lock, Opinel is the way to go! Available in all sizes! 😊
Just made my 1st of hopefully many knifecenter purchases. Please please keep your 3 guys that make the videos as long as you can. These videos make me happy. Thank you knifecenter for quality content.
Thank you DCA for this video absolutely love thinner geometry knives. That Benchmade looked nice.
Get to the chopper is the best blade related pun I have heard all year! Well played, sir!
New to collecting. Just got a Spyderco Delica. .098 in (about 2.5 mm.) NOW I know what a slicer is. Big difference from my other knives. Great video and great comments. Thanks All!
I've never had a problem with flipper tabs tearing pockets. I prefer opening holes and front flippers because they allow the knife to lay flat on a cutting surface, in most cases
Excellent explanation of different cutting geometries, DCA! 👌🏼👍🏼
"Getting to the chopper" !!!! left me speechless just shaking my head Thank You
Always good to hear from you D.C.A.🔪👍
The Kershaw Dividend is one of my favorite thin bladed knives at 3" long. I'm usually not a huge fan of assisted openings, but as for the Dividend, it's barely noticeable and easy to close one-handed.
That Benchmade Tagout looks awesome.
I've never had flipper damage yet. I have had significant pocket wear from several thumb stud knives. one of them being my very loved Ruike trekker. It begins to tear the stitching of where the pocket material joins the leg of the jeans. maybe someday ill modify the stud, but i still love the tool so much that its my go to edc for most occasions.
Thanks for explaining the knife geometry! I'm glad there was a bit more to it than face value.
There wasn't and isn't? I laughed out loud at that question honestly
Ah - no the media being cut isn't. Geometry that's separate
@@veraxknives0331 lol
@@DullPoints I couldn't tell if you were being sarcastic or not 😅 sorry brother
I carry a Kershaw Leek assisted opening knife, it has a thumbstud and a flipper tab, it's razor sharp,& it's got a very keen point, and it opens as fast as a switchblade
Hey DCA…When I read Matt’s question “Does Blade height matter? I was thinking of blades of same length and thickness. What height would be best? That would be based on intended use. A blade with more height would be better for something like batoning if that is your thing because you would be able to pound it in deeper before the back edge became flush with the wood 🪵 you were splitting or whatever. So height would be an advantage. But a shorter blade height wise would be better for delicate carving like carving out a spoon, making delicate trap triggers etc. Also “taller blades would be inherently heavier and “shorter” would be inherently lighter given the same length and thickness.
DCA! First off, your videos are awesome and I love all the information given. With that said, is there any good Hinderer XM 18 alternatives out there? I'm looking for something that's well made and I can customize as well to keep the itch at bay. Thanks!
Hiyo DCA! New to the channel and very much enjoying it! Shhhhh, don't tell my wife! So we are also new owners of 10 chickens, they are laying hens but eventually will become meat in our freezer. 2 ?'s for ya.....1. Suggestions for a knife for sending them to chicken heaven and 2. One for field dressing them! Thanks and carry on!
Never had any problems with a "Pocket Pecker" but like DCA said,the clip can eat your pockets,like my Ultramar Redencion,sturdy firm clip that likes to get stuck on the pocket edge,or any excessive material in the pocket.
Would love to see you make a guide on heat-treatment of steels, since it is a very important aspect of knife blades! Great videos as always!
Don't ask a salesman. I'm sure you can find this info.
I don't really have a question I'm just in love with that gorgeous new artisan cutlery proponent
That avispa comes in SK5 it's lovely
Awesome episode as usual! I was looking for a knife recommendation :)
Just picked up a giant mouse ace grand and absolutely love it! I was wondering if you knew of any similar knives in the danger kind of price range. Thanks!!
Al Mar ultralight titanium flipper tab ate a hole in in my jeans from edc carry, doesn't even have sharp jimping but like micro jimping
That chopper looks like a monster 😍
Great video as usual DCA. My question is in regards to using your knife, fixed or folder, to throw sparks off a fero rod. I know you want a carbon blade like 1095 or something similar, but will it work if your blade is coated? If any, which coatings would work?
Keep the great content up! Question for Thomas or DCA, is the cold steel triad lock also function as a bottle opener ? When the knife is folded the back of the blade and handle seems to be perfect for a bottle opener! Does that make it a multi tool ?
I went last year apple picking and I took my Miguel nieto cuchillo and was the perfect knife being a n695 stainless fixed blade but small enough to edc...!
i carry a top flipper (Civivi Lumi) so no problem with it messing up the pocket
Hey DCA. I own a Condor Mini Duku and love it. I consider it a small machete, a friend called it a big pirate chopper knife. How do you classify a blade in those categories? Thx
Hoping for thumbstuds and different handle options for the taggedout
Hi DCA, question about trying to find my first front flipper for my newly started collection. I try to keep a budget of around $150, and worry finger safety with a front flipper with liner and frame locks, since i'm losing the thumb guard that a traditional flipper tab gives me. What would you suggest for a front flipper that either has finger safe locking mechanisms, or has something similar to a traditional tab or at least a larger finger choil that can still act as a guard? Thanks. PS. I have looked at the Kizer Cormorant, but I typically don't like the look of trailing clip points, so bonus if it also is a drop point or spear point, since i think those are some of the best looking blade shapes.
Hi DCA I have a kinda two part question here both being centered around fixed blades. I have average-slightly larger then average hands myself and I was curious what handle material/type/size do you think is best for a day to day heavy use knife? Also about any suggestions for a solid 5-6 1/2in heavy use knife?
The Deka in Magnacut is a bugout killer!
As far as flipper tabs I've never had an issue, however some thumb studs have gotten caught when I pull them out.
For the guy asked about thin blade knife I would recommend the Kershaw Cargo, which its blade less than 0.125' thick, has quite similar blade geometry to the hogue mentioned by DCA and also use back lock that in my opinion, in case of thin blades knives are quite more safe than liner lock. That is because liner lock holds the blade in place only on 30-50% of its width while back lock locks the whole width of the blade base. In cases of thin blades this is more significant. Check it out...
Dunno if thats really an issue considering the blade stock is still thicker than the liner stock.
@@arrowheadguys7637
Sure it is. The less bearing surface, the less force it will require to fail. I'm not sure if it scales linearly, or to what degree, what level of "thinness" becomes a real world problem.
Nonetheless, ...all other variables being reasonably equal...less mass/contact area will fail sooner.
@@adamjames1375 The blade stock doesn't equate into it from any of the liner locks I've seen. The liner is thinner than the blade anyways, so the bearing surface is 100% based on the liner profile.
@@arrowheadguys7637
As an rough example,...
If a thinner liner is bearing on a thinner blade, depending on its engagement depth, it will have to travel less far, than a larger/thicker liner, on a larger/thicker bearing/blade. It's also less mass, less rigid, and provides less friction.
The whole issue could be avoided if the blade was milled so that the pivot end was thicker, though it would increase the manufacturing cost.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here...and we could debate "how strong the liner lock needs to be" ... but less mass, all other things being equal, will equate to less strength. The only question really is "Is the less strength still sufficient?"
There's definitely ways to solve this.
One way would be to increase the liners thickness and increase its' pocket size within the handle, so that there's less room to travel. Also increasing the degree of the springs/liners tension, while adding a bit of jimping/ access relief to offset the stiffness.
I'd love a tagged out but I think I'll wait till they come in g10 or until there are aftermarket scales
Thank you DCA
Im not a hunter, nor do i usually like clip point blades, but that Taggedout kinda speaks to me. I love my Bugout mini, and was going to get the full sized Bugout, but now im thinking i might go for the Taggedout instead. As much as i like thumb studs, i think its the thumb hole thats calling to me
I've had trouble with the pocket clips against the textured handle damaging pockets, but never with a flipper. Carrying without a clip would leave wear marks on the outside of my work pants, just because I always carried in the same position so bumping into stuff over time wore the denim thin.
Wrangler Riggs are a good affordable work pant & they have a reinforced patch on the front right pocket.
I've recently obtained a Benchmade Osborne. Reverse tanto is my favorite blade type. Could you recommend any good quality fixed reverse tanto blades to go along with my Osborne?
Hi ,I am looking for 8+ inches fixed blade knife. Really like Condor Hudson Bay design ,but it does not have landyard hole.which knife do you suggest to buy?
Hi DCA, I’m looking for a lightweight EDC and I’ve narrowed it down to the We Banter vs the Spyderco Chaparral. Both are in the same price range. While lightweight is a consideration, being able to get a 4-finger grip is also high on my priority list. Does that make the Chaparral the winner with its forward finger choil? Would love your thoughts on how these two compare. Thanks.
Thin for the Win! if I need thick I just use a hatchet.
For me geometry is a blend of: 1) blade length + 2) blade height + 3) blade stock thickness + 4) blade edge thickness + 5) blade shape. Changes to any of these changes the geometry. As DCA often says, everything's a compromise. eg. thick blade may be stronger but be less slicey. (Steel aside) Blade geometry will usually determine: 1) lateral strength ie. resistance to bending + 2) edge cutting performance ie. ease of moving through material + 3) cutting efficiency ie. what type of cutting it does best ie. push cuts? skinning? food prep? Sharp blades everyone.
What is a knife like the Civivi Praxis, but in better steel for edge retention and toughness than 9cr? Handle material I prefer is Micarta (although G10, etc not a deal breaker). Price range up to $175.
Am I understanding right? A particular steel at lower hardness is tougher that the same steel at a higher hardness? Does that mean that between powder steel and ingot steel at the same HRC, the powder steel would be tougher?
Hey DCA, small question related to pocketclips. I carry knives daily and use them all the time unfortunately the pocketclips ruin the edge of the pocket of my jeans after some time. Are there any knife resistant jeans out there? Kind regards from Belgium!
Hey man, awesome content. Can you suggest me a knife that is good for chopping bones. For eg goat leg or a whole goat(cooking at home).
Thanks
Flipper tabs messing up pockets-- I have thumb studs that have torn up my pockets but no flipper tabs.
What are the best sub $25 knife like the opinel or the svord mini peasent
I have an Opinion #12. The blade to be perfect for detail cutting on a specific type of material I work with. The problem I have with it is, I need something one handed open and close. Any ideas?
I like the idea of using tougher steels with good edge retention, like CPM-M4 or 4V, to permit a bit thinner blades while allowing for more heavy use. Now Magnacut seems to be the key, so corrosion won’t be a factor either. It seems like the perfect steel for outdoor use. S90V, S110V, and Maxamet will still be superb for more medium duty slicers.
Yeah that's basically all magacut is good for. High end outdoor type fixed blades. Really doesn't make sense for use in smaller knives much less kitchen knives. For the price though, I'd rather get AEB-L all day. Magnacut just isn't worth the price premium.
Hey DCA, as always, I love and appreciate the content. Y'all do a wonderful job. Thank you. I love the look of the Benchmade Tagged Out, but given the thin blade stock wouldn't a stronger metal than 154 be better?
CPM-154 is one of the toughest stainless cpm metals on the market outside of Magnacut. It has similar toughness to S35VN, which you will find on plenty of "hard use" folders and fixed blades.
Hi DCA, I would like to find a fixed blade knife whose parents were the Benchmade Flyway and the SOG Altair FX. No Scandi edge please. Thanks and I love your videos.
Never had a flipper tab destroy my pockets. Now handle textures under the pocket clip oh ya I have lots of damage from that.
Can a knife be too sharp to use for eating food on a plate as you might cut through the ceramic or possibly even through your cooking pot or pan.
Why are Verdicts and the 2.5” Engage unavailable?
Greetings David, Thomas & Seth. Thank you for the work you do in creating these videos. They're always informative and entertaining. May I ask, when is a knife (fixed or folding) so large it's no longer a knife? Cheers!
Oooooooh thats a really good question. When does it stop being a knife and start being a machete or a sword? Prepare for the weeds on that one!
@@arrowheadguys7637 I'm with you AG!! Get the whipper snipper (or in the USA I believe you refer to a weed whacker) and hedge sheers out!! 🌿🌿🌿🌿🌿
The only time I could think of a flipper tab being hard on a pocket is if you were carry a right side tip down knife in your left pocket. If you carry tip up the flipper tab is in the bottom of your pocket and should be out of the way regardless of the side the clip is on.
Love the info given and show. I have a question on thin vs thick blades - you give examples for thin blade uses (letter opening, cardboard, detail work), but about thick blade examples? The blade is tougher and more robust. Batoning is obvious, but I am talking about everyday use where one would say, " I better breakout the thicker blade for this job" or perhaps a profession. Thanks.
It would be more fitted to chopping / prying tasks to utilize that. Also, thicker blades are more resistant to chipping and if you do dull/chip the blade you have a longer "lifespan" of sharpening it, though it will be more difficult.
I’m no expert, but a knife lover nonetheless.
The most common tasks I could think of, in which having a thicker blade would pose as an advantage, would be tasks relating to chopping, bushcraft, and the materials you will be cutting.
Chopping tasks could include butchering, removing something connected by a stubborn material (think a thick plastic or something), preparing game, or even cutting of a thick rope.
Bushcraft tasks could include clearing light shrubbery, carving, shaving bark off of a log-tasks that may benefit from the heavier blade.
Lastly, durability. If you are somewhere in which you may drop the knife, or if dropping it may be a bit of a hard drop, the thicker blade may help prevent chipping or damage-depending on the steel of course. Another useful note is the ability to make wider cuts due to the blades thickness, sometimes a razor thin cut is simply not what you are looking for.
Hopefully that helped, though knifecenter will obviously be more knowledgeable than I am, and I am in no way an expert, not even close.
Could you do a video on hard use wood working knifes? Thanks DCA and Thomas
No flipper tab issue. Only clip wear issues.
Tops storm vector for the Predator!
😂 "Get to da choppah!!"
Good day from trevor slingshot.. DCA what would make a good fruit knife and would still be good for and EDC .4 inches max.
Have to agree, for thin and slicey, food friendly - the Opinels are hard to beat. The No. 8 has been sold as the "Picnic Knife". But, full-flat grind they are NOT. You can clearly see the full convex grind in the reflection as he handles it, it's a hallmark of the brand. It cuts much like a full-flat ground knife, it just isn't one.
Flipper tabs are nice. I prefer them over thumb studs. Thumb studs tear more pockets than any other opening method i think.
Most serious Question: Too many mosquitos in my house that fly around from room to room. I don't want to kill them so what would be the best knife to cut off their wings so they cannot fly anymore?
Katana best...
There was a question about Apple picking, I can say personally that I use my Benchmade Bugout for pumpkin picking. It gets through a thick vine like butter, and light so it stays out of the way.
Lol Bugout
THANK YOU
Hey DCA could you please do a video over quality Italian stilettos style knives!
CORRECTION, DCA: You said the Cogent had a Nitro V blade. The more recently released Conspirator has a Nitro-V blade, but the Cogent has a 14C28N blade, one of those top shelf stainless legends like AEB-L which makes it a superb choice. The Nitro-V on my Conspirator seems to be about the same in edge holding, but it deserved a mention. Of course, Nitro-V and 14C28N are really similar, the Sandvik 14C28N has a little less silicon than Aldo Bruno's Nitro-V, but they're almost as close as 2 steels can be.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of pivots with ball bearings vs. those with washers? And are there any other variants out there used in pivots?
Bearings are typically smoother/faster with that drop shut action that everyone wants, but the bearings can get gummed up with oil/grease/dirt etc. Washers are better for dirtier environments but are harder to get that super smooth action on without just a shade of bade play
Hi DCA, love this series. I live in a hot, humid city (Houston). Can you please recommend a folding knife that I could leave in the center console of my SUV year round without worrying about corrosion etc.? Thanks!
Any of the spyderco salt series should do you fine.
Firstly, blade & handle size & shape depend on your hands. That's why it's different for everyone.
But -
There is an idea blade width - for EDC where length is shorter. I can't give you a measurement range, as I don't really have something for that (as I don't take measurements) But think medium-large folder blade, if the gentleman/office carry knives are short - blade height-wise.
The idea here is you don't want it to be tall but you want enough room for the edge to thin out just the right amount. But also, IMO, with the perfect drop point being the most versatile blade shape there is - the perfect drop point being low curved tip, just enough belly somewhere in the middle of the blade but maybe towards the tip-side a little, & downward straight edge towards the back that leads into the belly. The closest thing I've found to this blade shape is the Nessie from Urban EDC Supply, if you need a live example of what I mean, but with less belly than the Nessie has. (If they had dialed the belly back a bit, it would have been the perfect drop point.)
You also want the blade long enough to properly house all three of those functions, but only just, since the longer you make the blade past your comfort area, the more cumbersome using the blade will become - unto using both hands to properly use a blade once it becomes too long for non-sketchy use with one hand. Now, that range is different for everyone depending on hand size.
I find the Swiss Army standard blade shape hard to beat.
Thin Full flat grind, not "tall", slightly downward facing point with a dash of belly, distal taper, with a sharpening choil.
I'd love to see one scaled up to 4" long blade, around 3/4" tall and around an 1/8" thick.
@@adamjames1375 I have a couple & I've always worried about snapping the blade. I also wish it had a proper tip as the tip is the most useful part of a knife. It being mostly straight-ish edge with belly on the end, I find it hard to utilize the belly for surface cutting even with my stocky hands, which is the blade category I feel it competes in. I've always thought of it as a backup blade, personally.
What do you tend to use them for?
@@Krusher_Knave
To tell you the truth, not much.
I use a small folding button lock utility razor for the vast majority of my day to day utility tasks.
While I really like the Swiss Army profile, I never really choose it as a tool. Outside of the kitchen, I almost always use a utility razor, when outdoors I am still really fond of my old Buck 119.
In the typical swiss army size, I just don't really have an ideal task for them. I occasionally carry and use a Spartan model & found it very nimble just a bit small.
But as a "do all" type folder with a 4" sized up, similarly proportioned blade, a larger, thicker ergonomic Frn handle, I think I'd use it often. I like the downward tip/slight belly. For cleaning fish/game and being a general kitchen utility knife, I think it could strike a nice balance. The downward tip is kind of a blend between a spear and a sheapsfoot. The distal taper and general thin stock help offset the tip for piercing and improve slashing/skinning strokes.
I'm a Fan of thin knives, like Kephart profiles, Old Hickory/Green Rivers, The Mora Kansbol/2000 is an outstanding tool.
I think a 4" scaled up folding Swiss Army single blade would be a sweet outdoors/camp companion knife.
@@adamjames1375 I like the way you think. I mainly use the QSP Penguin as my utility knife of choice, even though I wish it was a fixed blade so it was much easier to clean & had much less probability of breaking due to the many parts of a folder. Much less issues to have happen with fixed blades. The Penguin is the perfect utility knife shape, IMO.
Does the Buck 119 have a useful tip? Is one necessary for outdoor tasks? (I don't have this lifestyle.)
Also, have you seen Jack Wolf Knives? He just released one with a similar blade shape to SAK. Also, the WESN Henry might be a blade shape you're interested in.
@@Krusher_Knave
I have seen Jack Wolf knives, they look great but are a little pricey for me & while I can appreciate a non locking Swiss Army knife for $20 or so...as a tool I can't see the value in a Jack Wolf. They are super cool & sexy, but I'm not a collector and as a tool, there's just much better, more affordable utilitarian options.
The Buck 119 is an old design 6" fixed blade. Bowie style clip point, hunting knife. It's nicely hollow ground with a fairly stout spine.
It's very slicy & strong enough. Not a heavy duty big log busting battoner.
Mine has basic 420 H.C. steel which I've been happy with, though you can upgrade. It's pretty huge for most hunting tasks, but if paired with a smaller blade it can make quick work of big jobs. Works fairly well with fish.
There's just something about it. On paper it's pretty mediocre, the handle is slippery. It's just a sexy blade and I've become so familiar with it that I just like her more as the years go on.
... I'll have to check out the Penguin.
Thanks for answering my question! I was smiling so big. My wife said I was being a fan girl lol. P. S. You pronounced my name right, so props for that!
Congrats! In addition to the models DCA provided, I'd say the Bugout checks all the boxes for you. 3.25" blade at .090" thick right under $150. Surprised he mentioned the Taggedout instead since it was over your price range.
If distal taper describes the blade getting thinner as it goes from the handle to the tip; what is the proper term for a blade that gets thinner from the front of the handle to the butt of the handle, to more balance the weight of the knife?
Thats called a tapered tang.
That intro graphic! 😂👌
The taggout isn't a thin knife at the .89 inch blade mentioned.
Not sure measuring the thickness of a blade near the pivot area is really fair. Perhaps the middle area based on the cutting edge would be a fair compromise. Maybe that is what he is meaning.
I am interested in utilitarian quality budget hand axe for camping and splitting kindling. Can you do a segment on some suggestions? I don't want to spend over $60.
Search the youtubes for “harbor freight hatchet.” Best $12 I ever spent.
Loved this episode. Question is there any inexpensive yet dependable OTFs out there.
Axial Shift is about the cheapest OTF I would say is "dependable". Its around $255 for the S35VN version, made in the US and most reviews say its similar or better quality than a Microtech. You have to look around to find them tho since Microtech threatened all their dealers to stop carrying them.
Never had a flipper mess up my pants, sometimes a clip will. The thing that's torn up my jeans more than anything is the emerson wave function. Totally unnecessary and tears pockets up
@Ma Duece31 I love some Kizer and Civivi though
Will you guys ever create an knifecenter app?
the benchmade taggedout looks good
I almost want to buy one just to swap those orange backspacers on to another knife. Nobody makes orange look good like BM
As thin as possible. Thinner than most would prefer. But knives are cutting tools and I'm not prying, twisting, or hitting staples. I don't need to sacrifice performance to ensure it doesn't snap or chip.
I keep hearing that the edges on Civivi knives are very thin. But I just bought an Elementum from KnifeCenter and I was quite surprised to find out how obtuse the edge angle actually was. I mean the edge was pretty sharp and all but its angle seemed a little too large. I even did the market test to find the edge angle and it came to be close to 25 degrees. And that was just on one side. Do you think it is defective or that's just how they are?
Final edge grind angle doesn't exactly mean thin behind the edge. My civivi hit about .012 behind the edge whereas the delic for example was closer to .018-2 and a Benchmade mini grip at .025
@@briank.7937 Can you please elaborate? I've heard about the term behind the edge but I don't fully understand it.
Tip down carry, and flipper tabs are not an issue for your pocket. Knife reviewers have convinced manufacturers that we ALL want tip up, deep carry clips, on mini versions of a regular knives.
Hi DCA - here is my question: is CPM-Magnacut the steel of the future? Do you anticipate a bunch of new releases later this year and into next year? As of now your website has only about 30 knives featuring this interesting steel. Thanks!
I do think we'll see a lot of Magnacut in the future once companies use up all the steel they already had pre-purchased, however I don't think it will dominate the market since it doesn't excel in edge retention compared to a lot of the other super steels, and I think edge retention is probably the characteristic most people care about.
When are you guys getting The TOPS El Chete’s in from Pre-order?
El Chete is the only true american production choppa
Im curious as to why the Tagged Out is $171.00 with Orange Grivory and a CPM 154 blade, but the KC Exclusive Griptilian is Red Grivory and a CPM 20CV blade for $150 or coated blade for $160. Practically identical blade lengths and overall lengths, same handle materials, both axis lock knives, and the Griptilian is a little thicker with .115 vs .090. Im not knocking 154 as I think it's a great steel, im just confused/surprised that it costs more to manufacture than 20cv
Brand new knife, butterfly tax, and overall inflation id say. The exclusive grip is also something they probably had to buy a large amount of, so taking less of a profit and getting more volume makes sense.
Hi DCA, I am looking for a knife with 3 or more opening methods (axis or similar, flipper and thumbstuds for example). I already own the SOG terminus xr, any other suggestions?
Civivi Chevalier or Conspirator. Demko 20.5. Spyderco Smock or Shaman. All have at least 3 opening methods and have fidget-friendly lock mechanisms
@@arrowheadguys7637 yeah have been tempted by the demko for a while, but more tempted by the hogue deka in magnacut, just wish it also had a flipper tab
@@Em54699 I'll be completely honest, I was pretty disappointed in the Magnacut Deka. The plastic scales were terrible, felt like a $20 gas station knife, and the edge retention was not very good either (I heard Hogue ran the Magnacut softer than it was designed for). I actually lost it last week at work and I'm not terribly upset its gone.
Very happy with my Demkos tho
I have a Kizer Cormorant that is very fidgety.
Is there a knife you offer with a thinner blade than the spyderco chaparral?
Sandrin comes in at .051" blade stock. Can't imagine anything thinner than that.
Any recommendations for sanding down aggressive jimping on flippertab? I have the Terminus XR and love it, but I am worried about the aggressive jimping on the flippertab. @knifecenter
For a chopper, I'd go with a machete every day of the week, like a Condor from El Salvador. They really know how to chop down there!
DCA - how much does country of origin matter when it comes to choosing a knife? Is it all personal preference or is there one country putting out superior product?
Hey, DCA. I’ve heard people talk about a sharpened knife edge lacking or having “bite,” but I’m not exactly sure what that means. Could you elucidate?
Run your finger over the edge. If you feel it catching at your skin thats the bite. Another thing you can do is hold your fingernail at a downward angle, hold the knife with the blade straight and set it on your fingernail. If the edge has bit it will stick in place, if it will slide down the angle it does not.
After watching this video, I feel like I immediately need a search function in knife webshops, where I just type in what I want to do, ("uh, dissect squirrels, slice cucumbers, whittle tiny twigs, and stab fools"), and then the webshop pops out the knives with the steel, geometry etc. to match my needs
Those are the hunting, food prep, bushcraft and tacticool categories on most websites.