How to Replace a WJ Jeep Rear Brake Line - Removal, Bending, and Install - Brakelinectomy Time!
Vložit
- čas přidán 3. 08. 2024
- Bonus Video: • Bonus Video: How to be...
Today we are sharing a video that was the first part of our full brake system refurbishment on this 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ. As many know, the rear brake lines of these are very common to break. While they rust/break usually in the last 6 inches of the line, I usually prefer to pull the whole thing from the ABS pump back, and bend and install a matching new line. So that's what we're going to do today!
I admit - if you need to do this on your WJ, don't have any of the brake line bending/flaring tools, don't plan to bend lines in the future, and can wait for an order, then a pre-formed line will be faster and cheaper for you. But if you already have tools, or want the ability to form your own lines, then you may choose to do as we did. (For me, I have amassed the tools, fittings, and stock of line from other jobs, so I can bend up a line immediately often without having to place orders or visit a parts store - a by-product of making several lines in the past for custom applications or cars where there are no aftermarket pre-made lines, and not throwing anything away!)
TOOLS AND PARTS LINKS:
Note that any links going to Amazon will be using our Amazon affiliates links, which means we may get a small commission. Also note that I only link to things I have bought, or would buy as an option. I do not get paid to share links, or promote products - I share what I use or would use only.
BRAKE LINES and TUBE NUTS
Note: As with anything WJ Brake related, do note that there was a change from Tevis to Akebono front calipers for the 2004 model year, which I believe started around April 2003 builds. I don't think this affects any of the brake hard lines, but it does affect the front flexible lines - still always double check any parts we share relating to brakes that they fit your year jeep.
Pre-Formed Kits -
Fine Lines WIN9951OM Brake Line - Rear only
amzn.to/3kh4Agr
A commenter added they had good luck with this stainless kit - and it's got an added benefit of being all the hard lines if you need them:
Dorman 919-238 Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
amzn.to/3IOxfCU
If you prefer to make your own here are some options:
The Nickel-Copper line I used, this also comes with the 3/8-24 tube nuts but NOT the 12mm x 1.0 you need.
4LifetimeLines 25' 3/16 True Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, Inverted Flare
amzn.to/3SmPClV
I bought this fitting kit prior which is great if you want to have an assortment of various tube fittings on hand - this includes both the 3/8-24 as well as the 12mm x 1.0 fittings you'll need:
The Stop Shop Fitting Assortment for 3/16 Inch Brake Line Tubing, Inverted Flare & Bubble/ISO flare fittings, Metric & SAE (Pack of 45 fittings)
amzn.to/3KBzCu6
Tools:
Eastwood Flaring Tool - this is a great investment if you plan to flare lines yourself...it's not cheap, but it's a wonderful tool. There are some other brands selling this, but Eastwood gets props for their being consistent quality from my experience.
Eastwood Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit | 45° Degree Single Double & Bubble Brake Tubing Flares
amzn.to/3SmVXxv
I can't find the tubing cutter I have, I think it was from Harbor Freight, but here's a high quality OTC cutter:
OTC 6514 Mini Heavy Duty Tubing Cutter
amzn.to/3Et5Vb8
Tubing Benders:
Will share a few options - if you are investing in tools for this and future work, go as high quality as possible. If you just want a one-time use tool, basic may work...I don't have either of these, because my older benders are not showing up for sale anymore.
High Quality:
Imperial Tool 470FH Triple Head 180 Degree Tube Bender with Roto-Lok Indexing Handle, 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8"
amzn.to/3ImaDIP
Basic:
Capri Tools Tube Bender, 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 in. (CP21105)
amzn.to/3IkmwPi
Deburring Tool:
AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit with 11 High Speed Steel BS1010 Blades
amzn.to/3XMHqw5
Flare Wrenches - SAE and Metric Kit:
Sunex Tools 9809A Flare Nut Wrench Set, 1/4"x5/16" - 5/8" - 11/16", 9mm x 11mm - 19mm x 21mm, Fully Polished, 9-Piece (Includes Roll-Case), SAE & Metric
amzn.to/3lVqCWL
Kit (flex head SAE):
GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set, SAE - 81910
amzn.to/3ZtRpbd
Kit (Flex Head Metric):
GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. Flex Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - 81911D
amzn.to/3komj5B
Flare Crowsfoot 12mm Metric:
Sunex 971012 3/8-Inch Drive 12-mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench
amzn.to/3ITSROF
Kit:
Sunex 9710M 3/8-Inch Drive Metric Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, Size-10 - Size 19, 10-Piece
amzn.to/3lPZesV
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:41 The Line and How it Mounts
07:47 How to Remove the Line Mounts
14:08 How to Fish the Line Out
18:28 We'll bend our own line
20:14 Making Correct Flares on the Line
23:50 Fish the line back in and mount
32:33 Conclusion - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You should do one with a Ni-Copp brake line kit thats pre-cut. The Nickel copper is super easy to put through without pre-bending i hear and bend to brackets after.
I have an '02 Jeep WJ 4.7 Laredo with Selec-Trac (VIN-N)
I basically need to replace all my braje lines from master cylinder and caliper brake hoses. They are pretty rusty
I did the rear brake lines on my 2001 WJ last year. Tracking down the right size compression fittings was the main PITA- its the old 'classic' style, I think you mentioned SAE?- modern metric ones don't fit. Once that was sorted, I brought copper/zinc line and a pipe cutter/flare kit off Ebay, then practised the double-flaring technique and swapped the whole lot out. On the 2001, there's a compression joint mid-way down the pipe under where the driver (left hand drive) or passenger (right hand drive) sits, which I used rather than having to go all the way to the ABS box- I count myself lucky in this regard as bubble flares are evil to master. Swapping out the flexi-hoses to the calipers and the rear lines where they join on the rear axle at the breather pipe was a doddle- the easiest parts of the whole swap out tbh. The hardest part was getting all of the old rusty hardware off- yet, you make it look so easy! Nice work!
I do admit - a pre-formed aftermarket line is a great option for most here. If you need to do this on your WJ, don't have any of the brake line bending/flaring tools, don't plan to bend lines in the future, and can wait for an order, then a pre-formed line will be faster and cheaper for you. And you can check video description for links to pre-formed options.
But if you already have the tools, or want the learn or grow the ability to form your own lines, then you may choose to do as we did. (For me, I have amassed the tools, fittings, and stock of line from other jobs, so I can bend up a line immediately often without having to place orders or visit a parts store - a by-product of making several lines in the past for custom applications or cars where there are no aftermarket pre-made lines, and not throwing anything away!)
But again - there are at least options for the WJ for pre-formed lines.
Great video with great info, really like the on screen tips that are provided! Really helpful! Ty!
My rear line blew out in the exact spot you showed in the video, got in one day ready to go to work and pressed the brake pedal to shift into drive and boom went straight to the floor, ordered Dorman 919238 pre made stainless line kit and popped it in on my gravel driveway way and they worked as advertised
Nice - I used a Dorman stainless kit on a 2001 F250 - the front lines fit great but the rear one was not even close. I ended up forming my own. To be fair the F250s come in several wheelbase, driveline, and cab styles so even though it was listed to fit for mine I can understand why they may have issues. Good to know the WJ kit worked for you.
For most the preformed kits are the way to go. Over the years I've amassed the kit of tools and fittings so usually I can pop out and buy a $25 spool of line and form it up quickly, but if you had to buy tools just to fix your car the preformed kits are cheaper and faster at that rate. 👍
Great video as always! I see we have similar work light operation procedures 😁
If only I really filmed how many times I knock the magnetic ones off!! 😂
👍
I've got jeep grand Cherokee ltd crd ltd wj in U.K. has merc1.7ltr turbocharged diesel worse problem I've got is alarm keeps goin off usual when gets sun on vehicle, not been able to find cause of it ,cleaned door hood switchs not sure where else to look,no sun never a problem only activate in sun most peculiar!
That is an odd one - is it a factory alarm? I've not heard of that before, perhaps heat is causing a wire connection to expand and break, or touch causing a circuit to be made turning on the alarm. That may take some digging for sure...