Nissan 300ZX Z32 Manual Swap Part 5: Transmission Wiring, Neutral Safety Switch, and FIRST DRIVE!
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2022
- In this episode I figure out the automatic to manual transmission wiring and splice in wires for my back up reverse lights, clutch neutral safety switch, and starter relay. I also finish off rounting my hydraulic clutch line and take my swapped 300ZX for its first drive!
Instagram→ instagr.am/noboltsleftbehind
Website→ noboltsleftbehind.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video! Very informative
Thank you sir! And it’s an honor to hear that from the 300zx guru himself 🤘
AWWWWW Congrats brother! You've helped me start on my manual swap on my Z32 that has been sitting for the past year.
Thanks man! Makes me happy to hear I can help get other projects going. Keep at it!
What an awesome feeling you must have! Fantastic work here, I'm learning A TON. I have no idea how you figure all this out, or how much you are reading and researching. Very cool!
It was definitely a huge relief, I was worried a bit about that transmission but it shifts great! I do quite a bit of research, and watch a lot of CZcams myself. Glad you find my stuff useful!
Can't wait for the next episode. And congratulations
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Thumbs up for your perseverance and effort to keep it clean, OEM looking.
Thanks, that’s my goal. Factory 90s fresh looking with a few sneaky performance upgrades.
Neutral safety switch and reverse lights.
Sorry, I don’t have those written down anywhere
Really happy you got it going. This series on a manual swap in the Z is awesome. I like your approach to keeping the work professional. Videos are very well done also. I look forward to watching more work done on this car.
I appreciate it!
Thank you for the neutral switch thingy in the wheel well. Really appreciate your work mate!
Glad I could help!
Very impressive work! Very thorough and love your approach to tackling such tasks. I am a fellow Z owner and love seeing new technical content for them on YT. Keep it up, Sir.
Thanks! I love these cars and I’m doing my best to show everything I do in detail. Hopefully do my part to keep as many of these classics on the road as possible!
Great job altogether. Fairplay on figuring out the wiring harness. Electrical was never my strong point. Bravo
Hell yea man! Great to see it driving! Automatics are also really weird to drive for me. Great swap, you have to have that connection to the engine and car!
Thanks! 100% agreed, the manual is definitely a must especially with a old school sports car like the ZX.
Great to see the car up and driving! Hope the plenum pull on yours didn’t give you as much as hard time time as it did for me, can’t wait for the next video.
Oh it gave me a hard time alright, haha. So many cracked rubber hoses…
@@noboltsleftbehind I could definitely relate to that lol. I don’t know if your plenum is still off but if it is I would highly recommend the coolant line bypass, it’ll save a bunch of time for future plenum removals
@@fabian4471 good advice, I’ll make sure to do that.
Omg I’ve done this before but with the engine out
This time on my 90
Geez that ground on the alt is a pain with engine in
I can’t wait for the next video!! Did you go into detail with the plenum pull?
Yes the plenum pull was quite an ordeal, I did make sure to film it all closely. Not sure if it will be in the next episode or the one after, I want to make sure to fit it all on one episode. Took me a lot longer than I expected! Haha.
Barry, I don't know what do you do for a living but I bet you are really good at it. So much research! You must have dug so deep for the wiring diagrams
Finely a stick! This Z series is getting so good! I wish more people were watching.
Thanks! It's definitely awesome to finally get this thing back up and running as a manual, and excited to get back to the restoration work 👍
Do you have a diagram of the connections you have made?
So your earlier concern about the additional thickness of the throw out bearing vaporized ??
Yes, it looks like the thickness is fine, clutch works good. I forgot about that. Haha.
How did you get your original alternator to transmission harness out. Struggling very hard as it seems it’s like taped to this bracket in the middle of the engine and I can’t figure out how to access it from the top or the bottom
I don’t remember exactly but I think there might be a bracket bolted along the harness somewhere. There are a handful of other connectors on there too like the oil pressure sensor.
@11:50 I’m confused. Which wire needs 12v? The brown wire? If so, does the white wire need to be ran to the clutch switch then the other wire coming from the clutch switch gets wired to a ground?
It shouldn’t matter which side of the relay you hook up the 12v, brown should be fine. Then yes hook the other wire to one side of the clutch switch, the other side of the clutch switch to ground. Sides shouldn’t matter here either.
@@noboltsleftbehind thank you!
Hey I’m also in the middle of a swap on my z32 could you tell me how you did the wiring to get your key out? Since there isn’t a park anymore to take the key out
I actually didn’t do anything for the park wiring, and the key comes out just fine. I left the wiring for the auto shifter unplugged and tucked away in the console.
How's your Z doing? I got my Z manual swapped finally with your help, big thanks for that. I have some 2nd gear whining noise though. Do you have any issues?
Hey, glad to have helped! Mine is doing great, been daily driving it with no issues other than a leaky tail shaft seal that was easy to fix. Sorry to hear of your gear noise, did you change your driveshaft by chance? I noticed a just a little bit more noise with my one-piece aluminum, I assume it reverberates just a bit more than the stock one. It’s across all gears though.
@@noboltsleftbehind I did change my driveshaft to the one piece aluminum shaft. Only second is a little noisy. I’m hoping it comes out of it after I break it in a little. When I bought the driveshaft I got the one with a “noise dampener” from CZP.
@@noboltsleftbehind your videos were a huge help. What is the “tail shaft seal”?
@@BrianRomsdal I’m very glad to hear. I meant the seal at the end of the transmission where the driveshaft yoke plugs in, it was leaking a LOT of oil until I replaced it.
i understand the wiring except where the yellow wire with the green stripe from the grey manual plug gets connected to. can you please elaborate on that?
That should be the manual transmission’s neutral safety switch. I didn’t get into it in this episode but I did figure it out two episodes later: czcams.com/video/V_Hn2GOvgUw/video.html . You can double check by connecting one side of a multimeter (set on ohms) to this wire and the other side to ground. When you shift the transmission between neutral and 1st, you should see continuity come and go. It isn’t required to start and run the car, but it will run better when connected. It goes directly into a pin on the ECU.
@@noboltsleftbehind thank you! i just need clarification on one more thing... gray 7 wire plug from the auto harness (the one on the wheel well).... there is a solid green and a black wire. is the solid green soldered to the solid green wire from the manual harness and the black is soldered to the green with white stripe from the manual harness?
@@cartersmith8180 the solid green definitely plugs into solid green, this should be the reverse light. If I remember correctly the green/white is the other side of the reverse switch, and the switch runs on the positive side of the reverse light circuit. I’d double check this with a multimeter first, but I believe it needs a 12v source.
@@noboltsleftbehind thank you.
So how did you go about actually connecting those wires to the clutch switch? You didn’t seem to show that on video
I just used a couple of regular crimp-on female wire spades, they'll connect right to the switch. I passed the one from the relay through a rubber boot on the firewall and connected the other to ground under the dash.
you used the manual harness for the manual transmission and still needed to rewire the things shown in this video? After 15 years of rocking the auto, I'm doing the manual swap next month. Thanks
Congrats man! Yeah, I used a factory manual harness and there were some modifications needed. Had to splice a few wires and re-pin the auto harness connector onto the manual one.
@@noboltsleftbehind I heard that prior to the manual swap, shift the automatic transmission into neutral and the factory ECU works with the new manual transmission. Is that what you did?
@@BrianRomsdal I actually didn’t know about that trick! But I guess I probably had it in park or neutral. I did wire the transmission neutral switch into the ECU directly to correct the idle timing.
How many hours would you estimate this swap took you? Even a ballpark guess would be great. Thanks
I can give you a pretty accurate estimate actually since I have it all recorded! About 4 hours to pull the auto transmission, 8 hours to install the manual transmission, clutch pedal, shifter, etc. I probably spent another whole day on wiring and other miscellaneous stuff. This was on my own but also messing with cameras the whole time so you can probably take off a couple hours for that.
Hi bro
Besides the switching on issue..What effect would the neutral switch cause on my Manual Transmission as i drive?
There are two switches, one on your clutch pedal that keeps your car from starting unless the pedal is pressed, and a second one on your transmission that tells your ECU when the shifter is in neutral. If you don’t hook up the transmission one, from what I understand the ECU will pull a bit of timing and the car might not idle quite right. I noticed a small difference when I hooked mine up but not huge.
@@noboltsleftbehind woow I didn't hope to get any response so quick. Much appreciated mate
Does the car feel down on power? Is your speedo reading accurately?
I heard that the auto ECU won’t give the correct timing? What are your thoughts?
I was going pretty easy on it for that first drive, but to me it felt the same before and after the swap. From what I read, you do have to hook up a transmission neutral switch to correct some idle timing. That said, I did end up fixing some hesitation issues in a later episode by adjusting the crank angle sensor. I had the same issues before the swap, so I don’t think it was related. Hard to say.
@@noboltsleftbehind yeah I’ve been reading that you have to ground pin 44 from the ECU, but I have no idea what that means. I wish the photos from the forums were still there.
@@mastap1477 Check out episode 6 ( czcams.com/video/V_Hn2GOvgUw/video.html&feature=sharea ) I actually get into a lot of detail about it. It’s my understanding grounding pin 44 will pull timing permanently, I think the idea behind hooking it up to the neutral switch is it only pulls timing while the car is in neutral. After I did it I notice a small drop in rpm when in neutral, and it bumps back up when in gear.
@@noboltsleftbehind thanks man! Makes sense now. I few more questions. What color was the wire that you connected the pin 44 wire to? And what color wires did you connect the clutch/starter sensor to?
Great videos!
@@mastap1477 thanks! That pin 44 is a yellow wire with a blue stripe. I show the position of it here 4 minutes in to the video: czcams.com/video/V_Hn2GOvgUw/video.html . I couldn’t find it in the engine bay anywhere so I just ran a wire directly.
For the neutral safety clutch pedal switch, I ran my own wires from the pedal to one of the two smaller wires on the relay in the wheel well, the other wire needs a 12v ignition. I don’t remember the wire colors but I don’t think it matter which of the two you use on the relay.
How much did the swap cost you? 🤔 eventually not including the transmission, since you got that with the vehicles purchase
I kept track of all the costs actually, right about $850 for the swap parts including driveshaft, clutch kit, and all of the little misc parts. Not counting the transmission, clutch pedal, and shifter that came with my car.
did you manage to connect the neutral safety switch?
The clutch pedal safety switch I wired into the starter relay, and the transmission neutral switch I connected directly into the ECU.
So do we connect the neutral safety switch directly at the pedal? Or just to the delay?
There are two “neutral” switches, one on the clutch pedal that won’t let the car start unless the pedal is pressed and one in the transmission to detect when it’s in neutral. The pedal switch connects to the relay in the wheel well (along with 12v ignition). The one in the transmission connects to a pin on the ECU, which I go over in a later episode: czcams.com/video/V_Hn2GOvgUw/video.html
@@noboltsleftbehind thanks! My brother was in conversation with you I read after I commented. Great information!
@@noboltsleftbehind 2nd thought, do you think I can use the stock connector? I have a 5 speed donor chasis with all the wiring. I was thinking maybe chop off the connector at the original clutch pedal , and then re wire it to the starter relay? More of a “factory “ look
@@joeysmith7165 yeah, if you have an original clutch pedal switch pigtail definitely use that! I was gonna grab one for myself next time I was at the junkyard.
@@noboltsleftbehind will do!
Hey. How long did it take to do the swap?
It was about two solid weekends of work I'd say
I´m lost!!!! the secuence of the videos it´s a mess, Please put a number on the videos to see more clear all the whole work. Please!!!!!! it´s a great job!!!
Sorry! It might be confusing because I named the manual swap in its own 5-part set. The playlist is in order: czcams.com/play/PLGbIB9Abo01Nvnyn6P_d49GAQ2pv1fytC.html