Installing My 8Kw Vevor Diesel Heater || Part 2
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- čas přidán 21. 01. 2023
- Installing My 8Kw Vevor Diesel Heater || Part 2
Today I got the Chinese Vevor Diesel Heater going and decided to take the exhaust through the wall instead of putting the entire unit on the outside of the garage.
Link to the Vevor Official Store with a 5% Discount on the heater:
s.vevor.com/bfP6QT
The heater arrived within 5 days and is NOT shipped fron China but from Germany = No Import tax within the EU.
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Im joining the trend of installing this cheap Chinese diesel heater in my workshop for some auxiliary heat when the energy prices are at their highest.
For example: My energy price has gone from a fixed price of 0.18 SEK per KWh to about 10SEK (at its peak) which is about 55X more expensive. Currently its sitting at about 1.5SEK per KWh but fluctuates quite drastically during the week.
The plan is to make this a series of about 3 parts: Intro, Installation and at last tuning the heater to run more efficiently.
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Iam a VEVOR affiliate and earn from qualifying purchases
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BackmansGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BackmansGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BackmansGarage. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Please Read! If you would like a follow-up video on this after 1 year of use and some q&a, please like this comment and post if you have any questions that you would like to be answered below. Thanks for watching 👍
Glad to see venting heat protection - nice job
Nice to see something from a fellow Scandinavian :) I am working on a diesel heater for our camper at the moment, also from Vevor :)
I would put it in an isolated box outside and pull the inlet air to the heater from inside the house to prevent condensation and then send it in again thru another pipe. Both should fit through that one big hole you already got in the wall. Bara en ide! Bra video!
Both air hoses can be run thru the same opening into the house however, the cold air return (that goes into the back of the unit) should be taking air far away from the hot air coming into the house so the hot air can circulate thru the room before going back out.
You'll want an AC/DC converter of at least 20a rating to feed that heater. It needs about 13a to start between the pump, fan, and glow plug. Once it's fully lit off it'll drop down to about 3a of draw. Anything less than a 20a power supply will tend to sag the voltage just low enough that it sometimes will give you that alarm, especially if/when the glow plug gets a little dirty. Fortunately a 20a power supply is pretty cheap and bulletproof.
In the 5kw Maxpeedingrods it says it uses 10amp in startup
@@hunkenpunken My shunt says 13.4a on startup at the highest point, so that's what I budget for when running wire and calculating.
I picked up a 15 amp AC/DC converter on amazon for 30.00 3 years ago and still works fine on my 5-8 kw diesel heater.
You should always use a battery to power these units. Very dangerous using a converter because if there is a power failure the unit can't properly shutdown. Whereas if the battery gets low the unit will shutdown properly with a low voltage error.
Motorcycle muffler insulation or "packing" as it's called works for wrapping the exhaust in to run it thru the wall. You can actually hold it in your hand with unit running. Another option is to wrap it in motorcycle exhaust wrapping. Both work great!
Also to add to my last book.. No volt meter needed as well. Basic group 27 battery and a $5 trickle is doing the job for me. And like I said the smell I was getting seems to get higher as the chamber temp increase. It’s a flange seal unit. It’s not water proof per say. Level 2-3 seems best. Hopefully this helps someone.
I have my CDH against an outside wall in a cottage with sawn-lap board clad in aluminum on the outside, and plywood paneling over drywall on the inside. When I installed it 2 years ago, I faced a quandary as to how to get the exhaust through the wood-frame and wood-surfaced exterior wall. The only examples I found were through a concrete foundation, or a nearby window that had a fire-resistant panel inserted in place of an opened sash.
Wood normally requires between 4-600°F to ignite, but with prolonged exposure to 150-250°F, it can ignite at as low as 200°F.
My solution was to put a 4" dia hole through the wall - 7" from inside to outside. I centered a 10" section of 4" solid single-wall aluminum dryer vent pipe in the hole. I then placed a 3" diameter of the same length inside the 4" pipe with just enough spun fiberglass building insulation batting to center it inside the 4" pipe. I have a ~1" hole dead center in a 4" aluminum pipe cap on either end that keeps the CDH exhaust centered in the hollow 3" pipe. This rig keeps the outer surface of the pipe at well below 150°F on the inside with ambient of 75°F in the area around the heater with the pump at 2.8Hz. In fact, the surface of the pipe can be touched and held after 24hrs of continuous operation right where it makes contact on the paneling inside and it will not burn your hand - although it would not be comfortable to maintain skin contact for more than several seconds if the heater pump rate is set at 3.5-5.2Hz for several hours. Outside, only the small protruding 1" actual exhaust pipe even has any heat - even at outside ambients as warm as 50°F, the exterior 4" diameter casing and cap is not even body temperature at the higher heater settings. The set up also insures that the exhaust pipe from the CDH maintains enough heat to prevent any condensation in the exhaust as well.
Once the temps outside drop below 45°F, I keep the CDH running pretty much continously. It has a 14VDC Meanwell 14VDC 17a output power supply connected with a 800MCA series 27 Marine battery and a 30a solar system instant'lossless switching relay - so that if the power goes out it will stay running on battery without the controller resetting to standby/off mid-operation and causing a meltdown. The only time it gets a shutdown is if I need to leave for more than 30 minutes or more. Then it gets a rest-cycle. So, I have had 2 years to note any protential problems with the exhaust system.
Thanks for the comment and of all the tips 👍
Special Trick:
When drilling using the large hole drill saw:
Step: (#1)
Only drill (1/2) way through till only the drill just breaks through the other side.
Step: (#2)
From the other side completely drill through wall.
Step: (#3)
Instead use a (3") gas heater vent. (Inner Pipe)..
Step: (#4)
Use black "wetted" fiberglass motor cycle exhaust tape.
to make a saw hole to a larger size. put the existing size inside the desired size.
Nice clean installation. Well done. The only thing I would be aware of is the exhaust ground level with snowfall.
Thanks! It's a good point, not to mention putting anything else in front of the exhaust on the outside. I came close to putting some wheels in front of the exhaust once, but since the exhaust pokes out a bit I realized it probably wasn't such a good idea to put them there.
Nice video ❤❤❤
He’s a Happy Hole cutter lol !😊
If you are ever stuck with the holesaw that is wandering around just go through a pice of thin plywood or strong cardboard and that will steady the bit on the next hole.
Thanks, Great tip :)
One more thing you could do to help capture more heat off the unit - run a longer exhaust inside the building before exiting the tube. That will let the hotter length of tubing radiate heat inside before it goes thru the wall. That will be "phaze 4"!
I was thinking about running it through an egr cooler to make hot water for the pressure washer 😃
@@BackmansGarageI've seen guys retro fit an old cast iron radiator that is attached to the exhust then outside. It seem pretty efficient at recapturing heat that would have been lost from the exhust. There are some deals on used ones in the classifieds.
Fuel gelling up and false starts because the fuel won’t start first and you would have to put a quart of gas in 5 gallon of diesel to get to ignite better and you may have to add more gas if it’s super cold and doesn’t want to start. But this me and Iam not telling body to do anything except what manual says .
Very informative video.
Looks like you were using an LED power supply. This will restrict the maximum voltage and current to the point that the heater doesn't get enough startup power. (Power in Watts = Volts x Amps.)
Jepp, bad idea with the led power supply. Should hav bought somekind of 12v ups system
I think you will find that the inlet pipe in the bottom is for the combustion chamber only and should be outside.
I would agree that it would have been a good idea to do that yes.
Please read!!! I just wanted to say as a new user of this heater. I took it to my 4200sq shop, not assuming it would heat the shop but with 3 furnace’s @45 degrees my bill is over $500 so the purpose of this heater is to keep my feet and fingers warm while I am rebuilding lower units and transmissions. I ran a 25’ vent hose to reach the drive stands. Works perfectly @ #2 on setting. Exit chamber is @180-187* . Today i added length to the exhaust (3/4)x 10’ pipe and within 20min the chamber temp climbed to 210* and the fuel pump was pumping faster. And a combustion smell. To me, that’s a rich/lean condition. Try it yourself. To note: the same applies to HVAC units. ( each 45 adds 2’ in line set.) bottom line less length and wide bends on the exhaust is best.
Shouldn’t have a combustion smell, check your combustion chamber bolts are tight and the gasket isn’t damaged. Seen a few reports of loose combustion chamber bolts
The pump rate and fan speed are just set to any setting at the factory to get them to run and are usually running rich search CZcams for vortex he’s done a video on tuning the heater. Get a carbon monoxide detector too
Will get it tuned in in time. The smell that I had was from the heatwrap getting settled/hardned.
Could use metal asbestos chimney pipe to go through wall as a liner.
Yeah they lie about the power draw on these things. They only use a couple amps once they are running, but on startup it can be 15 to 20 amps. My 12 amp supply wasn't even enough for mine. My solution was to add a 12V 7AH NiCD battery pack. That gives enough extra power to start the thing, as well as act like a UPS if I have a power failure. You don't want to lose power to that while its running, the hot heater core will melt the plastic case if the fan stops running. I also like the NiCD better than a lead acid battery, BC I can keep my PS set to 14V and that will keep the NiCD pack charged without ever over charging it. Running the heater at a slightly higher voltage is better bc the fans run a bit faster. Its also rated to 16 volts so it won't hurt the heater either.
Fridged air does not contain a lot of moisture. Humidity levels in winter are very low.
You can ramp it up to heat the space faster and then turn the setting down to maintain the temperature. This will also quiet the unit down with a lower setting.
Thanks 👍
@@BackmansGaragevad var det som "luktade"??
I imagine the smell was from the initial heating of new burner parts and should go away after one or two burns. Nice install. You are belt and suspenders with your wall pass thru (LOL). I imagine you moves the condensate drain hole to the bottom before final sealing?
Haha thanks. No, i thought since the exhaust temps are so high it will burn off any water near and that will evaporare out of the hole. Its mostly there to prevent somekind of pressure build up from boiling condensation water.
A glass pack muffler might could do the trick. Aren't those diesel heater's exhaust pipes notorious for splitting open at it's seam?
9:11 and that is how you build yourself a katana!
🤣
Think i recognise that hole saw haha
That is a good setup as your air going in is already pre heated, not drawing it from outside. Great presentation. TKS.
It's taking heated air from inside the shop, burning it in the combustion chamber then exhausting that air outside. To make up for the air" burned" from inside the shop that means cold air MUST seap into the shop. So it's actually more efficient to use a "cold air intake" that's drawing air from outside, burning it, then exhausting it outside.
#2 heating oil same as diesel , but added color
Trouble is with these videos is that other people say running the input from inside will increase condensation. Very difficult to get a difinitive method of installation.
You said you wanted to shut it off because it was too smelly?? Can you please explain what you meant because it is not supposed to smell like diesel at all...
The smell was probably the glue and or heat wrap curing under the first few heatcycles. It smelled bad a few more times after this but eventually went away.
Computer power supplies work well
Central location will warm better not stuck in a corner.
These heaters have a built-in "low voltage" protection for being wired in to your RV or Semi sleeper, they actually shut off somewhere around 12.2V or 12.4V so the heater doesn't run your battery down too much and your vehicle can still start in the morning. If you are wiring it permanently, either get an adjustable 12V power supply that you can tweak to 12.6 - 12.8V or get a DC-to-DC step-up converter and tune it to that voltage. That will take care of your E2 error codes. These thing pull a little over 60W (if I remember right) while the glow plug is on when it initially starts up and then drops to like 20W when it's hot enough to run without the glow plug.
Shouldn't need the muffler. Just maybe a screen to keep the bugs out when not in use.
Im having some condenstation issues when not i use, the exhaust becomes a "vent" 😄
Choice #1 A small AGM with trickle charger Choice #2 House connected to UPS Choice #3 Spare motherboard located in sock drawer...Lol Just Sayin.
You'll want an AC/DC converter of at least 20a rating to feed that heater. It needs about 13a to start between the pump, fan, and glow plug. Once it's fully lit off it'll drop down to about 3a of draw. Anything less than a 20a power supply will tend to sag the voltage just low enough that it sometimes will give you that alarm, especially if/when the glow plug gets a little dirty. Fortunately a 20a power supply is pretty cheap and bulletproof.
Hi, at the end of the video you mentioned there was a bad smell.
What was that due to?
Do these heaters cause a smell in the area they are placed?
Would it be better to put the whole unit outside and duct in the hot air?
No it was smelling some during break-in. Not its all right 👍
I have seen a video of someone, running the exhaust tru un old boiler filed whit sand . Creating a sand heat battery.. maybe un idea for you
It's probably a good idea if you want to store the heat for long and is probably more suitable if you want to use the diesel heater as your primary source of heat. I'm my case it would use too much space for the time I need to use this.
If you put a return as well as flow, and put heater in a insulated box As a lot of UK home owners are doing to avert the high energy cost her due to the war. there will be no condensation. its the opposite maybe to dry a heat for some! I heat the whole of my ground floor of house on lowest setting using 150 ml per hour just under 7 hours for 1ltr of kerosene in my case as its much cheaper than diesel is in UK
Its kind of nuts this thing is still going on almost 8 months later. Now they are planing to use battery powered Tanks and planes to be "green" while turning everything red. Crazy times. But since when has war ever made any sense?
If there ever was a showcase of humans stupidity, war would rank quite high on the ladder .
How hot did the wall feel from the exhaust? I want to install one but need to vent it safely without spending $$$$$ on horizontal ducting
Absolutly no problem with the heat :)
@@BackmansGarage thanks for the reply. Much appreciated 👍
I was wondering if you could pls share a link or purchase info for the flange that you mounted on either side. Didn't have any luck at the local home Depot
www.vvsochbad.se/vaggstos-oe-100-mm-1017048?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhIHrzko3S4mAP7fK9LUneF2EYGILpEF8rrBrgMoMSGorc8M_dyiRy8aAoUxEALw_wcB
I used something lile thisone but it was at Byggmax (local hardware store)
Great video. For the metal exhaust, what do you call the rims you put on both sides? Would have been great to see how you did that. Thanks!
Next time use a hole saw the size of the hole thither the hole saw the size you want it one inside the other and boom
Yep saw this by another creator, not a bad idea :)
i would consider a longer pipe outside, i could see that blowing back in if you have the door cracked. i hear they are considering banning these because don't get he corbonmonoxide far enough away.
I would highly recommend using a carbon monoxide alarm as soon as you are heating with anything that will produce carbon monoxide.
Could you put the unit outside , run the air intake and heating line thru the wall so you dont have that noisy unit running inside ?
Could try it for comparison if i get my hands on another unit one day. But for now there are no plans for it.
You should take the air from outside and feed it to machine with another pipe.
With current setup you will burn out all of the oxygen and you may pass out.
Unless you have very good ventilation.
Simply - NO. There is no more chance that ..."you will burn out all the oxygen and pass out"... than you would risk from running a clothes dryer vented to the outside, a bathroom fan, or a kitchen exhaust hood - all WITHOUT a fresh air intake. If you actually own and operate a CDH, you will note that it actually draws less CFM than any of the aforementioned examples. Even without test equipment, comparing the movement of the exhaust off the 1" dia CDH exhaust that your intake pipe in feeding through the burner, to the amount of air at your dryer vent, should convince you that you are not in danger of creating any vacuum or fresh air starvation.
While cold-air intakes are an advantage in ICE's, this is a heater - there is no compression benefit from pulling colder/denser air into the combustion chamber as it is a simple burner not a compression cylinder. In this case warmer is better.
Guess i have good ventilation then 🤷♂️
So it took, 3 hours to heat your work space? How big is the work space? What was the outside temp?
9:27pm is 21:27, it was up to temp at 22:12 so about 45 minutes and NOT on full tilt.
It sounds like paint and oil burning off when so crank it wide open for a couple hrs out side should cure you smell test .
Yes, it doesn't smell anymore. I think it was mostly the heat wrap curing that made the smell.
Did the same set up heat wrap smokes and smells. Cure heat wrap running till it stopped smoking and no smell now
What is that thing called you put on the pipe on each end? I need them badly!!! I use a bean tin for my heater exhaust 🤣
On the exhaust pipe or the pipe going through the wall? 🙂 On the exhust pipe i have just welded on a couple of 2mm plates with a 25mm hole drilled in the center 👍
@@BackmansGarage sorry, the pipe going through the wall?
What was smelly?
Det säkraste är att köra den från ett batteri för om det blir strömlöst under drift så kommer kontrollkortet i den att gå sönder då fläkten stannar.
Sant, Har faktiskt inte tänkt på det scenariot.
Absolutely!
Vad var det för lukt som du pratade om i videon? är det diesel eller rök?
Förmodligen ifrån härdningen av avgasbandaget. Luktar ingenting längre i alla fall :)
You have a perfect AC unit there! Why the need for a CDH?..
Mostly for very cold and pricey days or when I need alot of heat fast for defrosting etc.
How come you didn't run yhe exhaust into a heat exchanger , then out the wall . Heat exchanger also gets warm and keeps garage warm .
Maybe if this was a more permanent solution, but for now, its just auxillary heat for when i need the little extra. However, i like tha idea of heating water for the high pressure washer in the future, but i would probably use a dedicated diesel water heater for that. But maybe i will cosider adding a heat exchanger (egr cooler type) to use some of the exhausted heat as well.
I would have to put through the wall higher up because of snowfall
It was convenient since the hole was already partially made. A good thing would be to have a reminder to check the outside before starting tho.
De är glödstiftet som drar mycket ström vid glöggning ca 10A vid uppstart på min Vevor 5kW sen drar den ca 40 W på full effekt. I princip kan man montera ett litet batteripack parallellt med nätdelen typ litiumjon 3S 2-3Ah minst 5C bör räcka för uppstart.
Grymt bra info 👍
@@BackmansGarage Det är ett alternativ till en 10 - 12 A nätdel och "modern" switchade nätdelar brukar stänga av vid överbelastning.
Har du lite avgasbandage kvar kan de vara klokt att isolera rörkröken närmast värmaren då bränsleledningen är mycket nära. Kontrollera om de finns vassa plåtkanter där bränsleledningen passerar, räcker långt med en tejp bit. Kontrollpanelen är lätt och flytta om man vill.
Enkel och vettig installation :)
Kan man inte styra lijon batteriet på något sätt så att den bara är aktiv under uppstart? Typ via någon utgång på värmaren kopplat till ett relä lr liknande.
Japp, såg lite förbättringsmöjlighter där med. Vill få dit lite avgaspasta på innan bara :)
What brand did you buy it I just wandered in the room in the middle of your video mine you can hardly hear it run you hear little tick tick tick tick tick and that's it and a little fan noise but hardly nothing
Its from vevor, but i think most of these ebesprächer knockoffs come from the same place.
I need to remove the plate on this heater to change the glow plug. Can you help?
Can probaby fit that in when doing the 1 year recap of the heater that will be made soon.
@@BackmansGarage We got it popped off and replaced. I feel so proud about that
People are always trying to use ac-dc converters when they are designed to use batteries, and get all kinds of weird error codes.
True, I was thinking about using something called an UPS uninterrupted power supply that uses 220v to make 12v for the heater and that had a battery backup installed in case of a power-out situation.
A 2 KW heater will heat a 8 X 8 X 7 foot room even if it has no insulation in the floor , walls or ceiling .
One problem with having the heater inside is the noisy pumps which continuously clicks away
80% of the time I have to wear hearing protection in my shop/garage and the music is always blaring too so the slight noise from the heater is drowned out or inaudible anyway
I thought it would be an annonying sound, but the more i habe it on the more I'm starting to like it. 😀
You do realize the Fiberglass, I.e. what you said will burn. Are actually used in insulating very hot pipes. Like steam lines in power plants. Former U.S. Army Engineer here.
It's drawing to many watts because of the glow plug
Suppose it snows and blocks your low lying exhaust!!
use a piece of plywood with same size hole as a guide next time.
Good tip 👍
Dina händer börjar också klia av bergullet som är isolering i din vägg. Ps. De brinner inte. =D
Sant, värsta va att jag hade tatt av och på mig jackan flera ggr så nu när det klia hela veckan 😄
Gött att det inte är så brandfarligt då iaf 👍
Smelly? You literally could not be able to smell anything there's something wrong with it that one because again I can't hear mine run hardly at all it sounds like a tiny fan running and I can't smell a damn thing not a damn thing
It was the heat wrap hardeing 👍
Minus 20?? Diesel turns into slush when it gets super cold like 0.
It's winterdiesel during the cold season here in Sweden. I think its good down to around -32 celcius
If you get an exhaust leak between the unit and the wall, the room will fill with carbon monoxide.
Indeed
thats not 8KW
Technically no. It's just the "8kw" model I guess. False advertising from 🇨🇳 like always 😄
@@BackmansGarage maybe if you were to use Jet A1
It is NOT a 8 kw . Not even close.
True
To much work for the average person
The heater costs like 150 to 200 canadian dollars. So. It's fairly cheap for what it is. Depends on the application
Yes
Dude n old computer brick would put enough power out if u have one !!!