A soft face hammer is essential if you're going to beat components like that. Well worth the few quid of investment. A top tip on installing fasteners: tighten them immediately. If you don't, you WILL forget and leave something critical undone.
The rebuild is coming along very nicely! I don't know about lowering the big Honda, however. Every bike I've ever ridden that had been lowered had spooky handling. Believe me, the engineers at Honda knew what they were doing when they set the original ride height. Don't try to outsmart them, they had degrees in mechanical engineering and got good grades in college. They wouldn't have been hired by Honda if they hadn't. Best of luck on the conclusion of the Blackbird rebuild project!
To fit the rear wheel, I firstly use a smaller tube to pass through that gets everything in line and then I push it out using the correct shaft and that allows me to adjust each part slightly as the shaft passes through....makes it much much easier.
One of the things I like about this build series is the f*ckups, whenever I do DIY or auto repairs something like you are experiencing always happens. Both entertaining and real. Keep going and soak up the glory on those little wins.
Well done for saving it from falling ... must of been some straining there!! Please get yourself a nylon or wooden mallet though, much better for beating wheel axles with as they wont damage or mark the ends of the axles 😉
Copper Hammer if you must hammer. I wire brush and metal polish every nut and bolt when I build a bike. Looks great and everything just slides in smoothly.
Before tightening up those pinch bolts to spec you’ll want to set that front wheel to it’s natural position. Do this by tightening (one) side only of the axle pinch bolts leaving the other side free to move on the axle. Then mount the bike while holding the handlebars give a couple quick compressions of the forks, then tighten to spec. This will (set) the forks so they are parallel which will keep them from binding the wheel on the axle. I just did this with my 890R. Learned it by watching Dave Moss on CZcams😂 He knows his suspensions. I apologize if you already know about that, just trying to help. I look so forward to your videos, especially this build. Rye this is so awesome! Thank you keep up the great work👏
"The chain fitting was simple" "Has he bought a chain tool?" "A what?" "What about the linkage bearings?" "The what?" "Does he want Matt, Eggshell, Satin or Gloss?" "Use whats to hand, he doesn't know the difference." "Bearings or spacers?" "Don't worry he doesn't know.....etc" "Why is he lowering the bike" "We dont know he doesn't say, mind you he'll never know the difference!"
I picked up a second hand rear axle bolt for my lad’s bike to make the refitting time so much easier and quicker. Pass that bolt through everything, then it’s all lined up then just knock it through with the original one. Job done. Loving the series fella, keep going 👍🍺🤟
your representing the majority of bikers out there who have limited mechanical knowledge and a working garage. Good on you for having a go and well done.
Looking really good! 👍 I'll tell you something about those heavy OEM mufflers.. the weight you're saving by changing them out is going to be missed if you plan on doing any high speed riding.. the engineers at Honda figured out that if they added weight to the rear end and distributed it evenly on both sides it would help to stabilize the entire bike at high speed runs.. and they were correct.. which is also another reason why you won't see a stabilizer up front on the neck.. it didn't need one. Keep those stock mufflers if you have them.. just in case.. you'll see what I mean when you get it on the road.. grab yourself a power commander 3 and k&n air filter to compliment those pipes 👍if you keep them on.
@@hbor77 no doubt about it they look true to the design of the bike 👍 I always swapped back and forth with mine depending on what kind of riding I was doing.. the stock are dangerously quiet and that's my only complaint about the entire bike.
@@hbor77 dude.. when those secondaries kick in and open up the massive amount of intake is so overwhelming that you don't even hear the exhaust!! It's such a unique sound..
Those TITANIUM Ti GR5 FRONT BRAKE DISC ROTOR BOLTS are a one-time-only fit.I just had to remove the front wheel and replace both sides one snapped as reused, and retightened a few times. Looking Good.
If you ever end up doing this again.....soaking rusty bolts/parts in white vinegar over night actually works. Never had much luck with coke...but the vinegar works definitely. However....keep in mind if the bolts/parts have any kind of coating (black oxide) it will strip that too, so you'll need to get them re-coated (or use a diy kit). Also....a 2x4 or 4x4 pieces of wood help a lot when using a trolley jack to prevent damage to the oil pan...and stabilize the bike.
That moment you think "Shit it's going" is often the moment that a random muscle in your body decides to let go! Well saved chap! Looking forward to seeing this completed
Fair Play Rye, I am looking forward to seeing your choices with what you do with the fairing I think it would be great to see this all in black. I service and maintain my Gsxr6 myself and its nice to see someone with no mechanical knowledge having a go and learning on the job. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
Buy an abba stand and the fitting kit for the Honda and the BMW you own my wife bought mine,, brilliant for my k6gsxr and the sv1000 I just bought,,, from northern Ireland ☘️😲☘️☘️😃 enjoy your series of videos on this project
If you want to strip rust off anything, submerge them in harpic power plus. It contains hydrochloric acid and I use it all the time now on my restoration projects. You will of course have to replate or paint your parts afterwards. Also cleans off tarnish on stainless steel header pipes when used with a brush. Great videos mate.
To fit the rear wheel use a long but thin piece of wood wide enough to put the wheel on then use another piece of wood to put under the thin piece of wood at the front to make a little ramp for the wheel to go up, it’s much easier. If no wood to hand, just sit behind the rear wheel then wrap your legs round the front of the wheel and push the wheel forward so it goes on the heals of your shoes, with the chain on your ankles/heels support the wheel well. Changed hundreds hundreds of tyres removing the wheel using both these methods. If you need any advice get in contact.
She is really starting to look the part now .I bought a 2000 Blackbird myself at roughly the same time as you. Mine on the whole is a very clean and tidy, having done 24000 miles. But i am taking notes from your rebuild for future reference. Love the Black widows...
Please bare in mind that if you apply any sort of lubricant to the bolts your torque settings are going to be incorrect all torque settings are dry they will be under there are numerous resources online giving wet torque settings enjoying watching you have a go it’s very addictive isn’t it! I’ve been working on bike for over 40 years😅😅😅
It is really worth building a wooden stand to support the motor where you had the jack. You can also add to its stability using ratchet straps. It is better than dropping the thing. On my oil head BMW, it had threaded bosses underneath which allowed the stand to be firmly attached. Next time1
Just a tip. Never, never use a steel hammer on steel parts - unless you intend damaging them. Always use a softer mallet to do the job - that way the mallet takes any damage instead of the machine part.
It's awesome to see how you give this incredible bike so much love. I own the exact same model and color. It needs some work too, but it's well worth it! Can't wait to see the rest of your progress!!
Great upload, keep going as it will be worth it in the end and I'm sure ma y of us are enjoying following your journey. If you would like a piece of advice from an older bloke; when in a position such as doing the front wheel up with everything balanced so precariously, assemble everything finger tight, then get the front wheel on tbe ground before final tightening so the bike is stable and no risk of it falling over when torquing up the front wheel. As you go on in the future, think about adding a front paddock stand that lifts from the bottom fork yolk, and other equipment to make life safer and easier. It's very expensive to go and buy all at once so I have purchased things in advance, in readiness of needing them. Birthdays and Christmas have always provided much needed tools or money towards larger, more expensive items. If you live in or near Worcester let me know as I will be upgrading my rear paddock stand soon and you are welcome to my old one.
Another great upload. Those cans are not on properly, I had the same problem with my last blackbird. I left them in the end and gave up but you should persevere, cover the parts that could scratch with masking tape while adjusting the cans and link pipes. A few tips, never pry on brake pads with a screw driver, never use a metal hammer on axles.hope this helps
Ive got a 2001 r6 which i love ... but i want a super blackbird aswell . Pics and vids do no justice , they look so nice irl and with a good exhuast sound incredible . Hope your bike turns out well mate 👍
It makes the bike turn in a lot easier. I think a 15mm drop is a bit extreme. Dropped mine 5mm and it made a hell of a difference in how quickly the "Bird" drops into a corner. I also added a 10mm spacer on top of the rear shock. Taking 15mm off the front and lowering the rear suspension is going to give him issues with ground clearance.
The bird is coming back together nicely. Personally I would like to see if the engine would run before spending loads of money. And get your self a floor Matt to. I wish you the very best mate.
Get yourself an abba stand with superbike lift while working on the bike makes it so much easier . They are easy to get second hand and give you great access to work on the bike . I'm curious to why lower the front and the back as ground clearance could be an issue. Also lowering the front and putting a shim above the rear shock improves the handling technically rasing the rear. I'm not sure what direction your going for but the bikes have been around for 27years and the info is all on groups on Facebook . Good luck in your project 🍀but some of us long-term modders have tried and tested most possibilities.
Coming along nicely, you can put hours and hours in and think, it doesn't look much different, then it starts to look the part, like when I modified my bike, good job, I'd use new bolts on everything if you can buddy, looking forward to the next video 👍
Hi mate great video, if I could drop any tips to help first I'd say is to put some different discs on the front , ebc etc. Also invest in a 3/8 and 1/4 torque wrench. Be very careful spraying all bolts in copper grease it will not give true torque readings and most bolts won't need it. Great video all the best
just a head's up that chain is rusty as hell you should get a new one if you dont want it to snap also use heavy duty grease for axles it will make it way more easy to fit and remove
I think you may have an issue with the fairing (belly pan) bottoming out on speed bumps with your lowering kit now fitted if you're not careful..! That is unless your just using it for 1/4 mile drag racing 👌
A soft face hammer is essential if you're going to beat components like that. Well worth the few quid of investment. A top tip on installing fasteners: tighten them immediately. If you don't, you WILL forget and leave something critical undone.
The rebuild is coming along very nicely! I don't know about lowering the big Honda, however. Every bike I've ever ridden that had been lowered had spooky handling. Believe me, the engineers at Honda knew what they were doing when they set the original ride height. Don't try to outsmart them, they had degrees in mechanical engineering and got good grades in college. They wouldn't have been hired by Honda if they hadn't. Best of luck on the conclusion of the Blackbird rebuild project!
To fit the rear wheel, I firstly use a smaller tube to pass through that gets everything in line and then I push it out using the correct shaft and that allows me to adjust each part slightly as the shaft passes through....makes it much much easier.
What a effort mate, especially on the floor of a driveway! 👏
Get same paddack stands ❤
One of the things I like about this build series is the f*ckups, whenever I do DIY or auto repairs something like you are experiencing always happens. Both entertaining and real. Keep going and soak up the glory on those little wins.
Well done for saving it from falling ... must of been some straining there!! Please get yourself a nylon or wooden mallet though, much better for beating wheel axles with as they wont damage or mark the ends of the axles 😉
..Or knacker the threads which will make getting the nut on impossible 🙈
Keep going Rye, you’re doing really well. It’s fantastic that your being transparent in showing the build warts and all!
FYI, there is NEVER an occasion when a hammer is required to install an axle/spindle
Reprimanded indeed ! 😊
Copper Hammer if you must hammer.
I wire brush and metal polish every nut and bolt when I build a bike. Looks great and everything just slides in smoothly.
Well done mate good seeing you tackle and learn about this bike
Mate this bike is going to look and sound absolutley sick when it's finished! You deserve it, after the work you've put in. Smash it mate!
Before tightening up those pinch bolts to spec you’ll want to set that front wheel to it’s natural position. Do this by tightening (one) side only of the axle pinch bolts leaving the other side free to move on the axle. Then mount the bike while holding the handlebars give a couple quick compressions of the forks, then tighten to spec. This will (set) the forks so they are parallel which will keep them from binding the wheel on the axle. I just did this with my 890R. Learned it by watching Dave Moss on CZcams😂 He knows his suspensions. I apologize if you already know about that, just trying to help. I look so forward to your videos, especially this build. Rye this is so awesome! Thank you keep up the great work👏
Nice one Dukie 👍🏼
"The chain fitting was simple"
"Has he bought a chain tool?"
"A what?"
"What about the linkage bearings?"
"The what?"
"Does he want Matt, Eggshell, Satin or Gloss?" "Use whats to hand, he doesn't know the difference." "Bearings or spacers?"
"Don't worry he doesn't know.....etc"
"Why is he lowering the bike"
"We dont know he doesn't say, mind you he'll never know the difference!"
Who are you having a conversation with?
@@BikesofRye Soichiro Honda.
# "You were only waiting for this moment to arise"
That's coming together lovely
Making good progress.
Those suspension units were well worth getting rebuilt.
Well done Rye. It's coming along now. Looking forward to seeing the finished masterpiece
I picked up a second hand rear axle bolt for my lad’s bike to make the refitting time so much easier and quicker. Pass that bolt through everything, then it’s all lined up then just knock it through with the original one. Job done.
Loving the series fella, keep going 👍🍺🤟
PS great save Rye by keeping that beast from falling over! All of those curls and flys at the gym came clutch😂
All those many years in the gym for that moment! The day finally came!
Coming along nicely dude 👍
Great efforts Rye 👍 bit different from my setup 😂👍
I see your latest upload.... that setup is the dream! I watch with so much envy 🥺🤣
your representing the majority of bikers out there who have limited mechanical knowledge and a working garage. Good on you for having a go and well done.
👏 Absolutely agree. Everyone starts somewhere with mechanics on bikes.
This is what is all about.... if I can do this anyone can
Looking really good! 👍 I'll tell you something about those heavy OEM mufflers.. the weight you're saving by changing them out is going to be missed if you plan on doing any high speed riding.. the engineers at Honda figured out that if they added weight to the rear end and distributed it evenly on both sides it would help to stabilize the entire bike at high speed runs.. and they were correct.. which is also another reason why you won't see a stabilizer up front on the neck.. it didn't need one. Keep those stock mufflers if you have them.. just in case.. you'll see what I mean when you get it on the road.. grab yourself a power commander 3 and k&n air filter to compliment those pipes 👍if you keep them on.
I would stick to the OEM mufflers as I like the entire look of them
@@hbor77 no doubt about it they look true to the design of the bike 👍 I always swapped back and forth with mine depending on what kind of riding I was doing.. the stock are dangerously quiet and that's my only complaint about the entire bike.
@@michaelfassilis4194 You can disconnect the cable so the valve is open all the time. It will make some more noise ;)
@@hbor77 dude.. when those secondaries kick in and open up the massive amount of intake is so overwhelming that you don't even hear the exhaust!! It's such a unique sound..
Great job, 👍
Good work mate ,
Man i I felt that at 5.30
Those TITANIUM Ti GR5 FRONT BRAKE DISC ROTOR BOLTS are a one-time-only fit.I just had to remove the front wheel and replace both sides one snapped as reused, and retightened a few times. Looking Good.
If you ever end up doing this again.....soaking rusty bolts/parts in white vinegar over night actually works. Never had much luck with coke...but the vinegar works definitely. However....keep in mind if the bolts/parts have any kind of coating (black oxide) it will strip that too, so you'll need to get them re-coated (or use a diy kit). Also....a 2x4 or 4x4 pieces of wood help a lot when using a trolley jack to prevent damage to the oil pan...and stabilize the bike.
You can't beat the feeling of a job well done , it's going to be great when you finish it , love your dog as well....cute 😀👍
That moment you think "Shit it's going" is often the moment that a random muscle in your body decides to let go! Well saved chap!
Looking forward to seeing this completed
Can’t wait to see it finished mate!! It looking very fresh! 🏍️💨
I'm picking up a project Blackbird in two days. You're videos are helpful.
Watch me to see what not to do 🤣
Did well to hold the bike up 👍
Really enjoying watching the rebuild...Great content. Keep going and can't wait to see it all peice together
Wowww wowwwwww wowwwww finally 🇳🇵🇳🇵
That dog was so cute
Brilliant vid 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏍🏍
Fair Play Rye, I am looking forward to seeing your choices with what you do with the fairing I think it would be great to see this all in black. I service and maintain my Gsxr6 myself and its nice to see someone with no mechanical knowledge having a go and learning on the job. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
Pleased to see your progress with the Blackbird. I have a 1999 model, same colour. A worthy project indeed! Well done so far 👏
Nice 👍
Nice progression mate! Good to see you enjoying it still 🤙🏻
Bro, I have those angled valves on my ZX14R. I swear it's my favorite mod on the bike 😂
Everything looks awesome, great work and best of luck
Very interesting
Looking excellent what a great effort hope she is going to be a keeper
The bike is starting to take shape. You’re doing great 👍
Buy an abba stand and the fitting kit for the Honda and the BMW you own my wife bought mine,, brilliant for my k6gsxr and the sv1000 I just bought,,, from northern Ireland ☘️😲☘️☘️😃 enjoy your series of videos on this project
Looking awesome 👏
Great progress. Well done
Props bud, love the way this is a driveway build 😎
Leave the bolts in a tub full of vinegar, then give them a rub with scotch pad. Comes up like new 👌👍
Yeah heard about vinegar too... might try this or as others mentioned harpic
That was my my first large displacement bike. It was hard to find aftermarket parts when it was new much less now.
If you want to strip rust off anything, submerge them in harpic power plus. It contains hydrochloric acid and I use it all the time now on my restoration projects. You will of course have to replate or paint your parts afterwards. Also cleans off tarnish on stainless steel header pipes when used with a brush. Great videos mate.
Few have mentioned Harpic I am tempted to try this!
Good progress. Nice to see things moving forward.
Great save! Keep up the great work
Verry nice. Every time better and better :) Good Job m8
Love seeing the progress mate! Keep up these types of videos! Love it!!!
To fit the rear wheel use a long but thin piece of wood wide enough to put the wheel on then use another piece of wood to put under the thin piece of wood at the front to make a little ramp for the wheel to go up, it’s much easier.
If no wood to hand, just sit behind the rear wheel then wrap your legs round the front of the wheel and push the wheel forward so it goes on the heals of your shoes, with the chain on your ankles/heels support the wheel well.
Changed hundreds hundreds of tyres removing the wheel using both these methods.
If you need any advice get in contact.
Thanks will try using my foot as leverage in the future
I love the series, pal. Keep up the good work👌💪🏍
Good progress 👏 that bike is gonna sound amazing 👏
Fair play my old son. The little tricks you learn on this beauty will make the next one much easier 😅
Good on you for having a go.
I might just have another project already... so I will see what I have learnt by then!
@@BikesofRye steady on, steady on 😁.
She is really starting to look the part now .I bought a 2000 Blackbird myself at roughly the same time as you. Mine on the whole is a very clean and tidy, having done 24000 miles. But i am taking notes from your rebuild for future reference. Love the Black widows...
Please bare in mind that if you apply any sort of lubricant to the bolts your torque settings are going to be incorrect all torque settings are dry they will be under there are numerous resources online giving wet torque settings enjoying watching you have a go it’s very addictive isn’t it! I’ve been working on bike for over 40 years😅😅😅
It is really worth building a wooden stand to support the motor where you had the jack. You can also add to its stability using ratchet straps. It is better than dropping the thing. On my oil head BMW, it had threaded bosses underneath which allowed the stand to be firmly attached. Next time1
Brilliant job buddy. So much satisfaction doing it yourself as well. Cant wait for first start up. 😎👍🏍
Let's hope it starts!! 🙏🏼
Just a tip. Never, never use a steel hammer on steel parts - unless you intend damaging them. Always use a softer mallet to do the job - that way the mallet takes any damage instead of the machine part.
It's awesome to see how you give this incredible bike so much love. I own the exact same model and color. It needs some work too, but it's well worth it! Can't wait to see the rest of your progress!!
Great upload, keep going as it will be worth it in the end and I'm sure ma y of us are enjoying following your journey. If you would like a piece of advice from an older bloke; when in a position such as doing the front wheel up with everything balanced so precariously, assemble everything finger tight, then get the front wheel on tbe ground before final tightening so the bike is stable and no risk of it falling over when torquing up the front wheel. As you go on in the future, think about adding a front paddock stand that lifts from the bottom fork yolk, and other equipment to make life safer and easier. It's very expensive to go and buy all at once so I have purchased things in advance, in readiness of needing them. Birthdays and Christmas have always provided much needed tools or money towards larger, more expensive items. If you live in or near Worcester let me know as I will be upgrading my rear paddock stand soon and you are welcome to my old one.
Another great upload.
Those cans are not on properly, I had the same problem with my last blackbird.
I left them in the end and gave up but you should persevere, cover the parts that could scratch with masking tape while adjusting the cans and link pipes.
A few tips, never pry on brake pads with a screw driver, never use a metal hammer on axles.hope this helps
To be honest I did think they were not 100%
Good job you’re a unit 😂. Nice work pal.
Great job and quality video. Well done.
Fantastic content, keep smashing it. love watching this series!
Thanks! Appreciate your support and glad to have you
Well done mate, keep at it ! 👍
This is just great.Just enough essential tools and knowledge.
Keep up the good work your a Star 👍
Got the Yam to watch as well 🥸
Ive got a 2001 r6 which i love ... but i want a super blackbird aswell . Pics and vids do no justice , they look so nice irl and with a good exhuast sound incredible . Hope your bike turns out well mate 👍
I agree I do think the bike looks better in person. maybe not mine though.....yet 😇
What's your reasoning for lowering the bike?
It makes the bike turn in a lot easier. I think a 15mm drop is a bit extreme. Dropped mine 5mm and it made a hell of a difference in how quickly the "Bird" drops into a corner. I also added a 10mm spacer on top of the rear shock. Taking 15mm off the front and lowering the rear suspension is going to give him issues with ground clearance.
I haven't lowered to improve handling... the end goal with this bike is to look stealthy and sleek and ultimately be a straight line rocket ship
@@BikesofRye cool man good luck on build
Just check your front wheel is the correct way round/ discs/ tyre as it looks not to be .
Great video!👍
Looks ok but there's arrow on side of tyre to check.
Legend 💪🏼 keep going, awesome job
The bird is coming back together nicely. Personally I would like to see if the engine would run before spending loads of money. And get your self a floor Matt to. I wish you the very best mate.
Well I am hoping it runs!! We will find out soon 😅
To remove rust you will need baking soda and strong white vinegar from a polish shop.
The mixture will foam up a bit initially but will calm down
Great job so far fella, it's all a learning curve, but you'll get so much satisfaction when it's complete .. 👍
Try using a softer mallet with a Copper and hide end ( stops damaging any of the tubes ,shafts etc)
Loving this rebuild ! The Matt Armstrong of the bike world ? 😂
Well.... I'd love that!!
Loving this!! Amazing as usual 😜
Put the bolts etc in a bowl of Harpic Power 10 mate, removes rust so easily, just heavily wash them afterwards to avoid them going brown
I have heard about harpic I reckon I am going to give this a go
Get yourself an abba stand with superbike lift while working on the bike makes it so much easier . They are easy to get second hand and give you great access to work on the bike .
I'm curious to why lower the front and the back as ground clearance could be an issue. Also lowering the front and putting a shim above the rear shock improves the handling technically rasing the rear.
I'm not sure what direction your going for but the bikes have been around for 27years and the info is all on groups on Facebook . Good luck in your project 🍀but some of us long-term modders have tried and tested most possibilities.
Best advice on the entire thread imho regarding an ABBA stand. Worth their weight in gold!
Loving the videos and I hear ya buddy.
I was fitting the new headers the other day wondering how u were getting on.
Looking good.
you looked exhausted after fitting it. see what i done there. it is coming on well. well done.👍
excellent keep going. Job satisfaction is a wonderful feeling.👍
Coming along nicely, you can put hours and hours in and think, it doesn't look much different, then it starts to look the part, like when I modified my bike, good job, I'd use new bolts on everything if you can buddy, looking forward to the next video 👍
it's looking good.
Hi mate great video, if I could drop any tips to help first I'd say is to put some different discs on the front , ebc etc. Also invest in a 3/8 and 1/4 torque wrench. Be very careful spraying all bolts in copper grease it will not give true torque readings and most bolts won't need it. Great video all the best
just a head's up that chain is rusty as hell you should get a new one if you dont want it to snap also use heavy duty grease for axles it will make it way more easy to fit and remove
It looked suspiciously shinier after the rear end was "Gunked" as well, that stuff should be kept well away from a chain.
Loved this one, great video bud...
Appreciate that cheers
That exhaust looks mint
She is starting to look good.
So glad you managed tp avoid the bike going over and scatching those news folks.
Well done mister
PS you doing a great job but the cost of thd job must be galatic
Will share the cost at the end 😅
Think you’re a good job considering. Rubber mallet is better for smacking spindles as threads can get damaged
Holy carp, 200+ comments! That's a hit, folks.
I'm still enjoying the updates on this.
Glad to have you always
On exhaust system ie headers I try and use brass or copper nuts like they use on cars incase you have to take it apart at a later date
I think you may have an issue with the fairing (belly pan) bottoming out on speed bumps with your lowering kit now fitted if you're not careful..! That is unless your just using it for 1/4 mile drag racing 👌
You could have removed the rear caliper for the rear wheel refit, less faff. Simply popped the caliper on after the wheel was fitted.