Easy Z-Offset adjustment for your 3D printer.
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 21. 04. 2020
- Today I'm going to show you how I adjust my z-offset.
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Update; Your axis won't go below zero? If you've gone through a firmware update for auto bed leveling like I just did, you are familiar with Marlin and enabling/disabling firmware commands? So the reason the Z axis wouldn't go below zero is because there is a command line "MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z" on line 1120 of Marlin 2 point whatever. That must be disabled with two slashes. Once disabled the process done from the printer screen should work.
On the computer or where at please help me
What is Marlin
@@trinitychiplove it is an software.
I'm not clear on where you would enter this configuration change?
cheers, great video helped me to dial in my anycubic vyper. enjoy how you should each option as well as just manual and really took the time to describe it in a simple way.
Best way I have seen throughout the internet keep up the good stuff helping all us newbs
Great stuff thanks, I've found that if I do a manual home all (to zero) and home z (to offset) my prints are perfect, I still have to test repeated prints without doing the above to see if the z offset remains constant rather than increasing after every print.
What is the UK time for your live streams I keep missing it.
Many thanks! I had so many issues with my new Ender 3 S1 Pro and auto bed leveler. Thanks to your video the sticking issue is solved.
You know your stuff, Always appreciate your vid's . Very helpfull.
Thank you, especially the last easiest more practical way. Not much out there how you explained it very well. The others over complicate it.
Great vid! Thank you Sir. I had been messing for a day or so with a 2nd hand printer (my first) all going to plan now! Liked and subbed
Great channel, speeding up my progress, thanks a lot đ
Thanks for your detailed guide... spot on!
You saved me a lot of time vid this tutorial. Thank you Richard!
I donât see the print speed and flow bar in my Pronterface interface. How can I have that on mine? I had that previously but donât see it any more. Thanks love your channel. And love to be there for your live sessions. I have learned so much. Thanks đ
Your video helped me so much! Thank you kind sir.
Great video helped a lot. New to printing, I cant seem how to lower my Z axis past 0.00 how do I get it inot the negative
Thank you! That was a very good explanation! I have a problem trying to use the 3rd methode. When I go through my Ender 3 display options, in Control/Motion I don't have the Z-Offset. What can I do???
Thank you! Such an easy thing but so little help available on the internet elsewhere. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Hey this video helped me a ton but my Ender 3 Max does not have a z offset tune in the control panel, neither does it have an adjustable z stop switch. I ended up bogarting the screws from a junk printer I have to make the z switch adjustable and then used your sticky note method to fine tune it. Printing perfectly now. Thanks a ton.
THANK YOU FOR THE HELP AWESOME VIDEO ILL BE FOLLOWING !
Great instructions... Right to the point
thank you for your easy to follow instuctions
Great information! Thank you and keep up the great work!!
Thanks for watching!
If I'm using OctoPrint, will the offset setting demonstrated here remain, or does printing through a different controller override those manual setting?
This video just brought me back from the verge of insanity.... 14hrs into trying to get a BL touch to work correctly.....thank you
You literally saved me, THANKS!
Noob question for ya, can this also be done through the touchscreen of the CR-10S Pro?
I have a aquila. I just started having a problem with the nozzle digging into the bed after leveling properly. I'm new to the hobby. My fist two big prints went great. But I can't print anything new from the voxelab slicer. The old files and preloaded files(test hook, etc) print fine. Do I need to adjust z offset for each new print?
My second extruder is .8mm lower and the set screws are toast so in the mean time before I rip the thing apart I want to set a z offset in the extruder start code.
Is adding negative (-.08) correct
G10 L1 P2 X0 Y0 Z-0.08
Also extruder 2 is is E1 so would that be P2 for the above example?
Does the bed need to be fully tightened down to do the z offset or is this done AFTER bed leveling?
Thumbs up in the first 5 seconds, because you used the correct name for the last letter of the alphabet!
Hi The First Layer, I have a Cr-10 Creality 3D printer and would like to know where to get the bed leveling sensor you are using in this video. Thank you.
Hi, I am struggling to set the offset on my CR 10 V3. Currently running Marlin 2.0.8. I thought I'd have the same setting to set the offset directly on the machine but turns out I don't. I have already tried with Gcode and no luck as everytime it Autohomes it bottoms out on the plate.
I don't have BLTouch, reason I am looking to set an offset is because the nozzle is printing too close to the bed, so Ideally (I have measured it) the new 'Z0' should actually be Z0.35. I have been looking around and testing Gcode from multiple people but no luck so far in making this offset permanent. Any advice would be super helpful, thank you
Can you set x&y offset to printer as well?
Thank you for a very detailed video. I like your printer setting method, but it doesn't work on my printer. Even after I save the settings, they seem off as soon as it starts printing. I'm about to upload a newer firmware, but the new firmware does not have all the tabs in Arduino IDE... I'm kinda scared not to brick it.
Really great video thanks
Thanks a lot. Greetings from Mexico.
How come auto home takes you to the center? I have a CR-10 and it takes the nozzle to the front corner left side.
Been having a problem with my Ender 3 lately. Had all sorts of z-offset and home problems that I had to fix one by one (the end stop too high, the wheels too loose and backing out, the arm going crooked and/or making short/smushed parts, etc... etc... but after finally getting all those things fixed, out of nowhere now I need a -0.9mm offset, which is too much to be able to use several slicing programs. Like Cura and Creality, they only allow a -0.27mm offset max. I know there are other ways to "fix" the problem, but I don't want to have to rig anything that's going to make it hard to print different things with different slicer programs and I don't want to have to mess with settings every single time I want to print something. For the first 4 weeks of having the machine (excluding the problems), for the most part I would just slice and print the parts. I didn't need to mess with settings or have to do anything special just to print a normal part.
Hi I've bought a ender3 pro and it has a bltouch fitted is it possible to remove the bltouch and re set to factory settings and re fit the Z top
Hey I love the video! I canât get mine to go to minus... will only go plus please help
Please help
Hi Great video I have a question hope you can help, my ender 3 pro start printing too high almost 3/4 inch high and it never sticks it just hangs, Im new to 3d printing. Thanks
Great info as allways .
Iâm just confused of what has priority . If I enter the z offset into my gcode yet have a different value added to the lcd screen of the printer which one will it do , gcode or printer ram.?
I subject you seek alternate source of info on this subject. this source lacks a basic understanding of what is being done!
Thanks!
Hey there. Awesome video. I'm running a Ender 5 Pro. Trying to follow your instructions on changing Z from the printer. In my menu, Z offet doesnt go negative. Is there something I'm missing?
Me too
After removing the glass bed and installing a Twotrees plate on my Bugfixed Marlin 2.x.1. with CR-touch and RUNout sensor my Ender 5 Pro printer never worked anymore. Its Z bed height was wrong after calibration and it kept behaving erratic. And it drove me so crazy that I even disassembled everything and dropped all back in its box. But today I finally solved the extremely difficult to find Z height bed level problems with my Ender 5 Pro when I noticed that bedleveling only worked when I put a thin about 0.3mm sheet of paper under the probe of my CR-Touch! But still just raising the bed with about that height of 0.3mm never helped! But by loosening both screws that hold CR-touch and nozzle fan holder cap and repositioning the CR-touch as low as possible and thightening the screws afterwards completely solved this crazymaking problem! So I never knew but sadly it is possible to mount the CR-Touch a little bit too high after your Ender printer never behaves normal anymore after that!
Can you help I have an Eder 3 pro with SKR Mini E3 + the TFT Glass Bed, Orange Springs (Springs are screwed all the way down) and BL touch v3.1 I don't have Marlin on my pc but cant for the life of me get my BL touch to go below -00.00
it is currently set to -1.85 on the Z offset
Still can't get my cr10s to work properly with the bl touch. I have tried marlin 1.1.9, 2.0, th3d firmware etc.. So far it has worked the best on th3d except the fact my z off set is limited to 4.9 and I need to go much lower then that to allow the nozzle to be at the correct height.
Z offset is one of those things that I still have trouble with... if it is currently set at -1.35 and I add a 3mm glad bed does this mean that I would effectively reset the Z offset to -4.35? I'd just add them together assuming the glass bed is indeed exactly 3mm?
Hi, this is great stuff - thanks a lot for putting this together.
I have an issue though and hoping I can get some help. I have spent several hours doing the z-offset calibration manually and have ended up completely spoiling my print bed. I got a new bed (removable magnetic flexible print bed) and would like to get the z-offset setting right before I start a new print
I feel that using the ender console is the most fool-proof method as it seems to be very accurate. However, the problem is that I am not able to set the Z offset to a negative value on my Ender m/c
Any pointers that can help me set the negative values is greatly appreciated
I have an Ender 3 v4.2.2 board & I have updated the firmware to the latest Marlin 2.0.9 version
Thanks in advance for your help
You should manually level your bed so that the nozzle will JUST touch the bed when the nozzle is at z=0, you NEVER want the nozzle to go lower than this ever.. Most leveling instructions will use a peice of paper which you can assume is 0.1mm thick, in that case you are setting your z=0 position to actually be 0.1mm ABOVE the build surface.
If you now print a base layer at 0.1mm, the printer will move to z=0.1 because it starts at the first layer height NOT zero, and as you have the bed levelled to 0.1mm above the print surface it will actually be at 0.2mm above the build plate and will fail..
This is where a z offset should be used, based on a manual level at least, to lower the print by the thickness of the paper, or usually a little bit More than that.
You do not need to mess about like this video, you just need to add the z offset plugin in cura and add a -0.12mm z offset and the first layer will start at JUST below the height of the first layer to get a squash onto the plate.
However.. to get a decent first layer that in 0.1mm thick needs an extremely good surface, the creality glass bed for instance is one of the flattest and has a variance of up to 0.15mm, meaning no matter what you do you will never get a 0.1mm first layer to stick to it everywhere.
In your slicer set your first layer to at least 0.2mm, i use 0.3mm myself, which will give a much better chance of a full layer sticking to the plate, you can also then adjust your z offset further to get the perfect layer because your nozzle will start at a height on 0.31mm above the plate with z offset of zero.. so a zoffset of -0.2 would still be 0.19mm above the plate..
,
is there a way to move the z axis up ? Everytime I home it is 3 mm short and I can't seem to adjust. Many thanks
Menu settings for Marlin 2.0 on a Sovol sv01 will not allow for negative Z offset when dialing it in.
I need some help. I have ramps1.4 i use pronterface and slic3r. My z axis raises to high for every laryer of my print. How do I fix this?
Something I noticed ..... having noted increasing Z offset on my Ender 3 Pro. Each time you do this - when move Z axis to get your paper 'drag' - it will add to whatever is already set as Z offset - because Auto Home effectively says its zero. You can check this by going to Control - Motion and setting Z offset to zero. Now auto home and now do the Z axis move to get Z offset figure to dial in ...
I could not understand why I was getting an ever increasing offset figure ..... till realised this factor.
On my Ender Pro, I don't have A Z offset under Control. In fact, my control options look a lot different that yours on the video. Any idea what "Babystep Z" is under the Tune menu?
SALUDOS, COMO PUEDO HACER QUE AL TERMINAR DE IMPRIMIR EL CABEZAL TERMINE ARRIBA A LA IZQUIERDA? GRACIAS
Great video but my offset plugin not starting in cura what the problem?
Okay I just got my first 3D printer a cr10 V2 with all the upgrades. Okay when I auto home good for the first time the nozzle was at least 10 mm off of the plate. I had to adjust we adjusters all the way to where they were almost completely loose to be able to get them even close to dragging on a piece of printer paper. It doesn't seem like it should be this close to failure. There is no adjustment in the zbracket for the limit switch period what else can I check? This doesn't seem right at all and I have very little experience. The only thing I have going for me is I worked in robotics for most of my adult life
Does the z offset affect layer hight or does the layer hight have to match is what Iâm asking
Zed-offset! How to identify a Canadian channel! :) Greetings from the Canadian Midwest!
How often do you usually need to reset the offset?
Setting the Z-Offset or just bed leveling, the hotbed and the hotend . Aluminum expands like crazy as the temperature rises, and odds on that your print bed or the bed heater is constructed from aluminum.
What do you do when you need to get .25mm closer to be bed and you can't enter a negative value?
I have a thermal mat and a glass bed, and new hotend, and I've never had to touch this. It's just whatever it was when it came. When I got the glass bed, I just moved to the z-stop up about the same distance and then re-level my bed to the nozzle.
What is the benefit of doing a z offset over just leveling the bed to the nozzle with a feeler gauge. My prints are great.
And if I ever have some sort of issue where the code or something messes up, it can never go below my z stop, so even if it ever did decide to just forget my z off that I'm not hitting anything. Not to mention you might have to move it anyways because depending on how thick your new bed is, you may not be able to make contact with the stop.
I understand it's using BL touch, but. I can't see the reason not to just use the z stop and level the bed to a homed hotend. Maybe I'm missing the point. But my prints are excellent and always have great first layer.
Not on the subject but I just bought my very first printer, an Ender 3 V2 and although I'm getting the hang of it, I have a problem with the Z axis, when I print a 20X20X20 cube, the Z is only 19mm so I printed a test with 5 layers of 2mm each, offset slightly to facilitate measuring and every layer is less than 2mm, any ideas how to fix this
How do u home it to the middle what are the g codes please thanks
I have the following issue while using the laser in my Ender 3-Pro from Creality:
The height can be customized, and the printer responds to Z offset changes. (software, screen, or Gcode)
The machine, I heard it switch on/off, although it does not engrave at all from laser speed 15 to 3,000 mm/min that I tried.
I just see a mild sign of work when I put my eye close, but nothing noticeable.
The laser won't light up by itself. I have to go to the screen of the printer and adjust the Fan Speed 100% for every print.
Even though, the gcode file has M106 S255 in several sections..... and M107 at the end.
CAN YOU HELP ME TO MAKE THE LASER WORK....? it had not been an easy process, I am almost frustrated.
Thanks.
@ 5:57 how did you find the z value to be 0.1?
Hello, I have a question. I am using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 When the printer made a perfect sticking 3 layers raft he begin printing to high. The layers wont stick the 4th layer. How can I solve this problem?
Thanks,
Great video, giving it a try, but where exactly does the level bed function come in to play in all of the z offsetting, for example running the bed level to test 9 points?
The auto bed leveling levels the bed using the probe (bltouch) but if the probe doesn't know where the nozzle is then it will print midair, so you need to set the z offset of the nozzle so the printer knows how much to compensate for the difference in height
My z offset is in the front left corner is yours in the middle?
@@Dawgbyte04 mine is set in the middle of the bed, I managed to get a "fairly decent" leveling. Some print jobs work fine, others are just pointless to even try, I just don't get it why and how they can send these machines out the door with severely compromised beds. I've tried it all and I can't get a "level bed" that will just print any given job no matter what.
Is there any video that explains how to do this using an Ender 5 Plus? Seems like every video I watch is for an Ender 3. The problem is that the menus are completely different and some of them you canât back out without the nozzle moving around. Iâm trying to make sense on what menus would correlate but they donât have the same capabilities. For example, when Iâm in the leveling menu I cannot change from moving the nozzle from .1mm to .01mm. I can only do that in the move menu and when I come back to the leveling menu, everything moves again. Iâm also uncertain that my new offset is being saved when I level the bed because thereâs nothing in the menu that says that itâs saved or gives me the option to do so. I feel that I have to do this before every print and doing so, defeats the purpose of the auto bed leveling.
No z offset ? Did you do something to allow the setting on your printer
My ender 3v2, the bed keep hitting the y axis motor, so I offest the z axis by 1mm, do I need to edit anything on cura now ?
Great idea but super paranoid Ill lose the settings! Ended up moving the location of the z-axis micro-switch and hasn't caused me any problems since!
I received my printer not long ago and I've been struggling with getting prints correct. Where can I find the software that you're using? I don't see it anywhere in the files I received along with searching for the CH340 install software.
my printer dosen't have a Z-offset thing in motion section could this be a firmware thing?
I have a home made 3D printer. I am facing issue with my z motors, as they are not moving up as expected and endup crashing into previous layer. I am currently moving z motors by hand clockwise to avoid this issue but it is not giving output as expected
kindly advise if there is a way to fix this issue by increasing z motor position after each layer by changing printing configuration in Slic3r or in Merlin firmware.
I am using Slic3r for gCodes and PronterFace for printing
Does this work on an ender 3 printer but it doesn't have a bltouch
Do I need to z offset on every print ?
So tram the bed then set the z offset ?
so i have had my ender 3 pro for almost a year and have yet to be able to print 2 prints back to back without having to relevel every time... im not sure what to do and im getting ready to give up. any help at all would be great... i dont have this z offset option on my 4.2.2 board and there is no BL touch just yet.
Hello can you help me with my issue? I keeping getting this error with my new bltouch, STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999. I have the 2.0 version and the wire with is is the 5 conductor all in one cable which is plugged directly into the port and also the z stop is still connected. I have the ender 5 pro with the skr mini e3 v2 mainboard. thanks in advance...
I just purchased and received my very 1st 3-D printer and ender 5. Now I am faced with the dilemma. The bed has been levelled 5 times but still wants to Hover as its printing not touching the bed any help.
*Pls HELP: Want to adjust z offset*
i do
G28
M211 S0(so i can go below 0)
Adjust my z axis(let say I want it to be -0.125)
m428(to save all offsets)
m500
m501(shows i have successfully saved it X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.125)
*but when I home again I expect it be -0.125mm below the actual position. which it doesn't. The nozzle stays at 0,0,0. But if do M501 it still shows my nozzle position to be at X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.125*
*why is the nozzle not going down by -0.125mm even though it has been written on EEPROM*
I have cr 10s it doesn't have z offset in motion so I don't have a clue how to do this help please the problem is I cant level the bed. The spring are compressed I auto home then disengage steppers motor i cant get a piece of paper under hotend
Hello I have followed your instructions but my z set doesn't go below +000.0
Good intro right into it
What are those clips holding the glass bed down? I do not care for the binder clips.
At the point of Minus one you need to explain how you take off the limit. The problem could be that the Nozzle cannot go below to a negative number. This requires the use of :M211 S0 to turn off the the protection. This will allow the negative value to be acquired by changing the height of the Z.
OK, SO I might be watching the wrong content, But i have an ender 3 pro and ever since i got it it seems that after i print something like a big box for my uno r3, the first layer goes down great.. however all the layers that go on after the z-hop turn really rough, like over extruding or some thing and I did test, thats not it. so i have to sit there right next to it doing babyzhops. ive tried incressing my E_steps and decresing E_steps. and even worked with flow. Its like after the first layer goes down Perfict the nozzle only travils half way to where it should be and just squeezes out plastic....looks like fine grit sandpaper. its new printer. bed is perfictly level. can you or anyone give me some feed back? or a link.. PLZ
What if you set your z offset in the middle of the bed and then find it drags in the corners. My bed is obviously warped. How do you compensate for that. My ABL seems to do nothing for it.
OK... Can you please help me.. brand new ender 3 pro. Silent MB, BlTouch V3.0 , Yellow heavy duty spring, MicroSwiss AM HE Marlin V 1.1,6 BL v3, I have been at this for weeks and I am Getting very frustrated. I just had to add a new glass bed because I ran the hotend in to the magnetic bed so many times. I have followed Luke Hatfield's guide wen putting my machine together. I manually leveled my bed with the gcode level calibration. I Just followed exactly what you did, and my numbers even turned out to be the same. of 2.8 However as soon as it Goes back to Home and the Bl touch does its thing, When it goes to print the nozzle is way far away from the bed... I Just don't under stand???
I have an i3 Mega that has been printing fine for three years, and now all of a sudden the nozzle has repositioned itself 3mm below the bedplate. Is there something known that causes this?
Sorry but need to ask a question. At the 10.46 min mark you select Auto Home. I believe this brings the print head to the position x=0, y=0 and z=0 but more importantly it has brought the x axis down to Y limit switch stopping any further downward movement. However at 11.05 min you say you are going to bring down the print head using Move axis, move Z axis down 1mm at a time. How can you do this when the x axis is already at the lowest point it can go because of the z limit switch
sorry I meant it has brought the x axis arm down to the Z stop limit switch stopping any further downward movement.
@@davidlow7583 i have the same question tbh
i have the ender 3 3d it don't show pepare on the menu do i need difrent firmware and i can't seem to do anything other than move z up and it's not even touching the paper? any help?
I have a Ender 5+ and I'm unable to go beyond "0.00" when using the touch screen to move the z axis, but the nozzle is still too high above the bed
Iâm having the exact problem and just about to return it Bc i have watch video after video and cannot find a fix. Did you find any solutions by chance?
@hailey nichole I figured it out finally. Nobody explains this well for noobs. Check the 4 plastic bed knobs under corners to make sure about 1/4 of screw is showing on each. Go to Leveling, once Auto Home finishes, turn off Auto Leveling. Either go back and use "Disable Motors" or unplug them all. Once done, manually turn Z rod threads simultaneously to raise bed carefully to paper card thickness (I used Creality card) below nozzle. Carefully slide nozzle left towards z screw with card under nozzle, turn left z slightly to lower the bed for any dragging. Once Z is fine tuned so card barely slides or is a little scratchy move to right Z and repeat. Once each side is about same card height below nozzle, switch to paper and slide nozzle head to a corner (R back). Slowly use knob to adjust that corner to where nozzle binds the paper and won't let it move then reverse to where you get scratchy slide. Make sure you don't bump knob when letting go. Repeat with R front, R left etc. Once all corners have same slightly scratchy feel when sliding, check center again with paper. It should feel the same or a little less. *Turn on auto level at touchscreen, then plug in or tap disable motors to turn back on. I then ran measuring and everything should be close in range. Just make sure there's no odd variance that might mean bed warp. (Check by going to "move" type 140-170 in Z to lower. take glass off and lay straight edge ruler across center and corner to corner. Once your Z is set and you are in 'Leveling" or when printing, you can make adjustments to offset if needed. Z+ lowers and Z- raises on mine. Seems backwards but it's important to note. Hope this helps, message me on FB if you need more help.
i did everything i could. but it doesnt go down after running the print. any ideas
You just saved me
I can't go any lower than 0 and there is still are 1mm to 2mm gap between the Nozzle and paper any ideas? do I need to adjust my the 4 corners? I'm using the ender 3's panel method.
Same here. Unfortunately tech questions don't seem to get answered by the host here.
Update; If you've gone through a firmware update for auto bed leveling like I just did, you are familiar with Marlin and enabling/disabling firmware commands? So the reason the Z axis wouldn't go below zero is because there is a command line "MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z" on line 1120 of Marlin 2 point whatever. That must be disabled with two slashes. Once disabled the process shown on the vid should work.
Had the same thing and the answer is very simple you might laugh. Instead of loweringer your Z. Turn those screws so the bed itself gets raised higher ;) That's how I did it and when eventually I could het a Z-offset
So how is this different from raising your bed to the nozzle using paper method? I have always been confused why all bed leveling instructions don't mention this. How does this fit into the equation?
Generally you don't use z-offset unless you have a printer with auto bed levelling. The offset is the difference between what the auto bed levelling sensor is detecting and the end of the nozzle.
@@hoppynaki that's what I thought, in which case you'd think manual bed leveling could use offset, because I have ran into too many times I am getting drag on paper when leveling but first print isn't sticking. That nozzle is raising above z0, it has to be.
@@yarrumc This may not apply, but I discovered unnoticeable hardened plastic left on the nozzle from previous prints would ruin the paper gap method. I don't use bed heat for most printing and a heated nozzle just oozes continuously so I always use my angled tweezers and clear anything left behind. That is I used to. I just got my BLTouch working and first print appears to be a winner so far.
if the bed is levelled using paper then you effectively have a z offset of 0.1mm applied, the thickness of the paper...
When you start a print the nozzle moves to the layer height NOT zero, so a 0.1mm layer the nozzle will actually be at 0.2mm above the bed and the print will fail..
You can use z-offset plugin in cura with a -0.1mm to compensate for the thickness of the paper you used to level with, and as it has a much finer resolution you can adjust the nozzle a tiny bit closer than that to squish the first layer a bit more, so you could ass a z offset in cura of -0.12 which would put your nozzle 0.8mm above the bed for your 0.1mm first layer..
However, to get a 0.1mm first layer at all needs a very, very good surface, even the creality glass bed has a variance of up to 0.15mm which is your entire layer height and another 50%..
For best consistent results on your first layer use a first layer height of 0.2mm or even 0.3mm, it will not make any difference to the dimensions of the object as the ttal number of layers will be changed to maintain it, and you are not going to get superb resolution on the first layer anyway due to heated bed etc..
When using auto levelling, it is Z PROBE OFFSET which is used to set the difference in height between the position of the probe trigger (or bed surface) and the nozzle.. So auto-level detects the bed and the probe offset is added to that to move the nozzle further down until it touches the bed. they are two different things, and you can use both, so with autolevel the probe offset puts the nozzle touching the bed surface at zero, and in cura z offset can be used to squish the first layer slightly and can be different for each layer thickness or quality profile..
thank you for your video. I used the first one to trim the z axis offset. it looks like not working on my machine. can anyone take a look and tell me what did i miss? thank you very much.
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
G92 Z-0.65 ;
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0ddd ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E30 ;extrude 30mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
G5
Isnt this the same thong as leveling the bed on all 4 corners?