New version is much better: here is link • Blue Stuff/Oyumaru - ... Můj web: www.plasticmode... Článek na webu www.plasticmode... David Damek Hudba: Luz on the line CC Attribution 3.0.
If you mixed some corn starch and acrylic paint with the silicone, you can make what's called Oogoo, which would be easier to handle. You can also replace the acrylic paint with food coloring and create Proto-Putty, which is said to be more durable. I recommend checking tutorials for both and experimenting with which may be the better for your projects. :)
It's just you.....Just sounds like someone with some basic guitar skills playing with a loop pedal....I've made plenty of crap like this that I've deleted lol
You might get better results by hot gluing your masters to a flat piece of glass, acrylic, or what have you. Then add your mold-making material (which can also be regular air-drying rubber such as is used for model railroad rock molds). You might want to build a little stick "dam" around your dried mold(s) and pour a back-up of plaster into it. When hard, lift off the plaster, and peel off the rubber. This way, you create a support for the mold cavities so that they remain undistorted and the openings remain level. Then, when you pour your casting material (Hydrocal is a good choice), you overfill the cavities, then place a piece of glass or Plexiglas over the mold, giving your parts a completely flat back when dry.
Nice tutorial, but you don't have to wait a week for it to cure. This is acetoxy silicone which cures by absorbing air moisture and releasing acetic acid. You can put it in a plastic bag with a small cup of water and sealing it (and heating the air inside). In theory this can cut the curing time to 1/5 or 1/10 of the time.
Chris Hansen - Silicone, you mean. And yes. It causes the silicone to become thicker and opaque white. It also stretches less, becoming easy to tear over a few months. That said, it's perfect for popping out pieces quick as it becomes stiff in 45 minutes and can demold in 2 hours, depending on how thick you mix it. Dumping the silicone into a bowl of water with dish soap in it before applying it for the mold can also reduce curing time, but won't reduce clarity or integrity of the mold, though that's only important if you're doing a two-part mold. In this case, it should be fully cured in 24 hours.
You MAY want to clear coat your pieces first. If you have a mat finish, or rough peg marks, the silicone could bond , causing demolding issues... This is as someone who uses silocone caulking both for molds and for professional work. XP
Thanks I have never done plastic molds or plaster. I have made a mold once when we were making bronze casting years ago. I do want to try and make a plastic mold once. Just to learn the procces.
This tutorial is great, tried it myself and was wowed. There is one thing that though me for a six was that fact you use hypodermic needles to mix your resin?
you can also whip up a bowl of water and glycerin or dish soap is what I use and pump the silicone into it. the glycerine acts as a catalyst. You knead it for a bit in the solution until it gets thick. take it out and press your positive in and wait like 30 mind, maybe more to be safe. demold and you're done
I finally tried the technique but couldn't make it work, the silicone attached to the original piece and I couldn't take it out without breaking the mold (I couldn't even unglue it completely). I thought this might happenned so I covered the original with some industrial oil, coudl that be the SAME reason why this happenned? I also didn't let it dry for a week, just 2 days... any ideas?
I put my figure piece without oils or anything. Let it dry for a week and the same thing happened like yours. The piece was stuck to the silicone. There has to be a way! Also, I'm working with super small pieces, so they must be all the way inside the silicone.
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I finally tried by mixing it with corn Scorch (can't remember the actual term) bit that worked like a charm, Made a few molds and currently using them with the París thing....
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I mixed the silicone with the starch corn and you have around 10 minutes to make the mold, I only left it 24 hs and it was ready to remove the original. The mold is flexible so you can still cut it with a knife. :) I duplicated some barrels and chests
I noticed you never made those panels with skulls ( like a weird church lol ).I wondered where the original panels where from cos they looked good cast in gypsum plaster
Fuck sake, guys! I know everybody means well, what with all the added tips and tricks. But some come through as being a tad critical, or perhaps a bit confusing for a beginner who might read them(me!). He’s taken time to make the video and post it. Did you? I , for one, am quite impressed, so thank you for the video. Much appreciated.
I don't get why you only had 1 glove when you ended up touching the silicone anyway. I mean that's _exactly_ like something I would do but I'd be calling myself an idiot while I'm picking silicone out of my fingernails.
So do people think this is actually worth trying, or should I just pay the money for proper moulding solution? I'm tempted by the cheap option with plaster! Dave
I tried this with silicone (tube) I found here in the USA. I waited 2 wks to try to remove original pieces and it did not work. Silicone stuck to pieces. I don't know if it's different silicone in EU compared to USA. Tried again and coated pieces and still didn't work.
I tried again with different pieces coating pieces with Vaseline (thin coating) and another pieces with hairspray. waited 3 days to remove parts still didn't work. Silicone tubes here from Wal-mart $2.99 and buying silicone mix for making molds is about $20.00. I think silicone tube in EU is different than silicon here in USA. Tried to find same silicon used in vid but can't find it.
I always assumed there was some catch to that silicone being so much cheaper than the art kind. Is it more toxic? Longer drying time? Less durable? Too hard?
this silicone putty is way to hard and stiff to be usable for the purpose. And it isd not that cheap either. For similar price one can get proper silicone or letex product for making molds.
Do you think I could use this process to make a copy of a car shell but have it made out of something highly flammable so that I can use it as a mold for an aluminum copy?
Just use plaster of Paris cheap and for a one off an easy way to go. Make a wax casting from the mold the create a sand cast from the wax and use burn out method
Very good! -but wgere can I get this powder that you show here?? Is there any site from where I could order this product or similar?? Do you know? I live in Europe, and a U.E. company to order this from, would be great!! 1000 Thanks!!
what product is this called "Bílá" you used with a brush on the mold??? I don't understand the language in the package is this have a common name to find it in my country? thanks
Thank for sharing . I got a few question about this . Will any silicon will work . Is that gypsum something like plaster. I do have a few rare kits i want to recast some parts from. This look more suitable for bigger casting.
I also tried to use other types of sillicone, but they were too sticky with the plastic parts. For me is the best choice transparent universal sillicone. Sillicone is very resilient, so you can fill it with any substance, even molted metal, for example tin metal.
Still can't find the right silicon (tube) in USA that will work. What I have been doing is using Sculpey Bake Shop (oven baked clay) from Wal-mart $0.99 for 2.4oz. to use for making molds. What I have been doing is working the clay to soften it. Then add a light coating of Baby powder (rub on with your finger) then press the item you want to make a mold of into the clay. Then remove the item and fill in the mold with resin mix and let the mold set. Makes greats mold and the clay can be reused over and over. Have made a dozen molds and the baby powder has not effected the clay. Just work the clay to soften it before you make your next mold.
Very easy to do. 1- Simple work the clay to soften it - because the clay is kind of stiff when you 1st pick it up. 2 - I usually roll it up into a ball. 3 - Sprinkle Baby powder onto the clay then use your finger to spread the baby powder to make a thin layer on top of the clay. 4 - press the item you want to make a mold of into the clay. 5 - remove the item that was pressed into the clay. 6 - fill the mold with resin to make the mold. 7 - let the resin set, then pulled the item from the mold. Easy to clean the mold after you made it. * Clay, since it is a baked clay can be used over and over. Store clay in zip-lock bag for next use.
If you mixed some corn starch and acrylic paint with the silicone, you can make what's called Oogoo, which would be easier to handle. You can also replace the acrylic paint with food coloring and create Proto-Putty, which is said to be more durable. I recommend checking tutorials for both and experimenting with which may be the better for your projects. :)
little tip on the resin , if you fill the molds with water and dump it into a cup you canget a good idea of how much resin that you need
Are those plastic molds or plaster?
Thanks that's a great idea, can't wait to cast my miniatures
Very good tip!
It's just you.....Just sounds like someone with some basic guitar skills playing with a loop pedal....I've made plenty of crap like this that I've deleted lol
@@28russ Wow, cool story bro. Almost as cool as your stupid drone videos, I make crap like that all the time that I delete🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You might get better results by hot gluing your masters to a flat piece of glass, acrylic, or what have you. Then add your mold-making material (which can also be regular air-drying rubber such as is used for model railroad rock molds). You might want to build a little stick "dam" around your dried mold(s) and pour a back-up of plaster into it. When hard, lift off the plaster, and peel off the rubber. This way, you create a support for the mold cavities so that they remain undistorted and the openings remain level.
Then, when you pour your casting material (Hydrocal is a good choice), you overfill the cavities, then place a piece of glass or Plexiglas over the mold, giving your parts a completely flat back when dry.
I need you to do a video on that please
Also, if you order some cheap dental VPS impression materials off eBay you can have a more accurate and durable mold ready to go in 5 minutes.
@@hubristicmystic There you go! Faster!
quality detail, suprised me when i saw how messy it was!
I use plain old PAM cooking spray as a great mold separator! An old trick I learned from a friendly plastic vacuum forming shop in Detroit.
what was the purpose of the plaster molds...just to show it could be done with plaster....then showing how it would be done with resin?
Nice tutorial, but you don't have to wait a week for it to cure. This is acetoxy silicone which cures by absorbing air moisture and releasing acetic acid. You can put it in a plastic bag with a small cup of water and sealing it (and heating the air inside). In theory this can cut the curing time to 1/5 or 1/10 of the time.
Dante Grimm Does the corn starch affect the clarity or integrity of the resin?
Chris Hansen - Silicone, you mean. And yes. It causes the silicone to become thicker and opaque white. It also stretches less, becoming easy to tear over a few months. That said, it's perfect for popping out pieces quick as it becomes stiff in 45 minutes and can demold in 2 hours, depending on how thick you mix it.
Dumping the silicone into a bowl of water with dish soap in it before applying it for the mold can also reduce curing time, but won't reduce clarity or integrity of the mold, though that's only important if you're doing a two-part mold. In this case, it should be fully cured in 24 hours.
I tried using this and corn starch and it got stuck to one of my favourite action figures and I couldn't get it off....
You don't even have to do even that. Mix 100% silicone with cornstarch or flour and 30 minutes later, it's cured.
@@sadville13 You can use brass wire wheel. It's soft enough to not cause too...much damage to the toy.
You MAY want to clear coat your pieces first. If you have a mat finish, or rough peg marks, the silicone could bond , causing demolding issues...
This is as someone who uses silocone caulking both for molds and for professional work. XP
Thanks I have never done plastic molds or plaster. I have made a mold once when we were making bronze casting years ago. I do want to try and make a plastic mold once. Just to learn the procces.
This tutorial is great, tried it myself and was wowed. There is one thing that though me for a six was that fact you use hypodermic needles to mix your resin?
you can also whip up a bowl of water and glycerin or dish soap is what I use and pump the silicone into it. the glycerine acts as a catalyst. You knead it for a bit in the solution until it gets thick. take it out and press your positive in and wait like 30 mind, maybe more to be safe. demold and you're done
DUDE watching this is hypnotic; Im not even a modeler and i love ur channel
How many times can you use the mold before you have to replace it?
I can not do well like you do !
Good example. I learned many.
Thank you !
Use corn starch powder and mix it in the silicone until it doesn't stick to your gloves. Then press piece into it.
Which kind of (paint) you used for the polyester resin pieces ?
I finally tried the technique but couldn't make it work, the silicone attached to the original piece and I couldn't take it out without breaking the mold (I couldn't even unglue it completely). I thought this might happenned so I covered the original with some industrial oil, coudl that be the SAME reason why this happenned? I also didn't let it dry for a week, just 2 days... any ideas?
I put my figure piece without oils or anything. Let it dry for a week and the same thing happened like yours. The piece was stuck to the silicone. There has to be a way! Also, I'm working with super small pieces, so they must be all the way inside the silicone.
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I finally tried by mixing it with corn Scorch (can't remember the actual term) bit that worked like a charm, Made a few molds and currently using them with the París thing....
@@pablocalderoni8081 How long did you wait? Hope not a week, lol. Will the silicone hardened or will you still be able to cut through with ease?
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I mixed the silicone with the starch corn and you have around 10 minutes to make the mold, I only left it 24 hs and it was ready to remove the original. The mold is flexible so you can still cut it with a knife. :) I duplicated some barrels and chests
Mix in one drop of acrylic paint, and it'll set in 3 hours instead of 1 week.
Ratio?
great tutorial , also the music is great. thanks!
Interesting, but what is the white stuff you mixed? I figured the other stuff is liquid resin. Video was ok. It gave me some ideas.
Thank you very much for this tutorial! Now i can have as many MG 42's and Karabiner 98's as i want :D
Hahaha, great :D
hello what brand is the polyester resin 1qt. you use please!
Now I have another use for all that work silicon. Nice demo and interesting additions in the comments. Thanks chaps!
Is it just me, or is this music really good.
bb beddyboy Agreed!
Its you...
Jean Michelle Jarre does jazz?
bb beddyboy, Yeah the music is perfect for this type of video. I could listen to it anytime !!!
@@Sonnymonster
It's Jean-Michel Jarre. Michelle is a girl's name.
this is great, thanks for sharing.
If you mix some white glue into your plaster it would make it much stronger wont break as easy
That’s a good trick especially without using some type of mold release.
I noticed you never made those panels with skulls ( like a weird church lol ).I wondered where the original panels where from cos they looked good cast in gypsum plaster
I think I am rapidly becoming your biggest fan
Fuck sake, guys! I know everybody means well, what with all the added tips and tricks. But some come through as being a tad critical, or perhaps a bit confusing for a beginner who might read them(me!). He’s taken time to make the video and post it. Did you? I , for one, am quite impressed, so thank you for the video. Much appreciated.
Nice How To! Excellent choice of tunage.
Brilliant! Very clever.
I don't get why you only had 1 glove when you ended up touching the silicone anyway. I mean that's _exactly_ like something I would do but I'd be calling myself an idiot while I'm picking silicone out of my fingernails.
Done that too. ]😂
yep, I'm the same...
Going to try this on a ls engine I just ordered.
When using plaster a good release agent is Pam. It’s cheap and washable and paintable.
for silicon not to stick to model what are u using as seperator ? i know u can use baby powder
i have something in mind, and have one question with all this,
how brittle are these model creations, ?
So do people think this is actually worth trying, or should I just pay the money for proper moulding solution? I'm tempted by the cheap option with plaster! Dave
As soon as I saw the silicone tube it made perfect sense
nice background music
Hey man. Can you demonstrate this technique on miniatures
What is the reason \u003d\u003d and put you \u003d\u003d for the image of the Komt channel \u003d\u003d\u003d Girls have sex Are you lesbian
Music sounds like the theme for a recovering addict at art time!
Can you make a video on how to create plastic army men the same way?
What was the thing he put on the resign
a hardner perhaps?
I tried this with silicone (tube) I found here in the USA. I waited 2 wks to try to remove original pieces and it did not work. Silicone stuck to pieces. I don't know if it's different silicone in EU compared to USA. Tried again and coated pieces and still didn't work.
did you use a lubricant before applying the silicone?
I tried again with different pieces coating pieces with Vaseline (thin coating) and another pieces with hairspray. waited 3 days to remove parts still didn't work. Silicone tubes here from Wal-mart $2.99 and buying silicone mix for making molds is about $20.00. I think silicone tube in EU is different than silicon here in USA. Tried to find same silicon used in vid but can't find it.
well thanks for letting me know. I got one with Vaseline spray been setting for 2 days. gonna remove it tonight. I'll let you know the results
I got my silicon from home depot
What brand name and did it work? Also did you have to do anything special to keep the pieces from sticking?
David could yoy make an experiment once when you cast every singel part in a model somthing small a 1:72 scale plane that would be relly interesting.
I always assumed there was some catch to that silicone being so much cheaper than the art kind. Is it more toxic? Longer drying time? Less durable? Too hard?
Can you give more details of the silicone? I am going to try this and don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks!
À by Gy
Just make sure the tube says 100% silicone
how much water did you add to the gypsum ?
which material in can u used for die please name of it and from where can I get it
Great class for this. You make it easy.
These models are plastic or resin?
Please provide more info on the song and artist. Can't find this group nor the song anywhere.
Thx...
Fluid Plastic; could you quote some brands.
"Nokia" "McDonalds"
Nice video. Just one stupid question: what is the name of the artist and song? thanks.
It says in the description. Luz - On the Line.
Can i make that into two part mold? Like front and bottom?
this silicone putty is way to hard and stiff to be usable for the purpose. And it isd not that cheap either. For similar price one can get proper silicone or letex product for making molds.
Can i duplicate sprue on model kit?
Nice work....thanks for tutorial. ....
add some blue dish to water and then pour the silicone into the water. it helps
Wow I would've thought the silicone would stick to the pieces.
He covered them in a mold release
Silicone can only stick to silicone itself, it shouldn't be able to stick to any other material lol
@@tydshiin5783 like bathtubs and countertops and tile? Those things arent silicone and yet 100% silicone caulking sticks to all those things. Hmm.
@@codelicious6590 fair point, but you can still tear it off the surface without much damage or any at all
Whats the white powder stuff ur using to cast the moddel
EXCELLENT TIP ! IS THE MUSIC A MUST ? THANKS FOR THE KIND VIDEO !
You can submerge the silicon in water with a little of soap, then you can manipulate it without sticking on hands and things ;)
is that REGULAR gypsum like the one you might buy on a workshop?
Great video, I will have to try this !!!
You are a genius!!!
Can you please speak in your videos so we know exactly your process of thinking
Do you think I could use this process to make a copy of a car shell but have it made out of something highly flammable so that I can use it as a mold for an aluminum copy?
Just use plaster of Paris cheap and for a one off an easy way to go. Make a wax casting from the mold the create a sand cast from the wax and use burn out method
fantastic!!!
Thanks for usefully video, nice work..at 5:45, what did you add in polyester resin..
Hey what is being mixed in with the resin?
A hardener, otherwise the liquid resin would never go off.
Very good! -but wgere can I get this powder that you show here?? Is there any site from where I could order this product or similar?? Do you know? I live in Europe, and a U.E. company to order this from, would be great!! 1000 Thanks!!
Shear beauty of a process. thanks.
what product is this called "Bílá" you used with a brush on the mold??? I don't understand the language in the package is this have a common name to find it in my country? thanks
hi, ,,Bílá,, means ,,white,, The product he used was ordinary white powder gypsum or plaster ;) (dont know how exactly it is called in english...
Plaster of Paris
I just found this video on CZcams but very cool, that’s just nice as hell! Very informative! Thanks dude for sharing that!
can I ask whats the mixture for the resin?
Have you try to make metal part with the same technic?
Alright, what was in the small bottle that was added to the poly resin?
Hardener .....otherwise the resin might not fully harden, and you'd have rubbery pieces ....or FUBAR pieces =OP
Thanks, much appreciated.
Instruction not cleared. I'm stuck in the basement...
+Jule Eric Bernasor BDSM
I burnt my house down 😐
Hello. Are these able to take a gold spray paint? Thank you for this video. :)
This music is bumpin yo!
Thank for sharing . I got a few question about this . Will any silicon will work .
Is that gypsum something like plaster. I do have a few rare kits i want to recast some parts from. This look more suitable for bigger casting.
Thanks Sall M Y for finding this video ill helps a lot and ***** thanks for posting the video to us.
I also tried to use other types of sillicone, but they were too sticky with the plastic parts. For me is the best choice transparent universal sillicone. Sillicone is very resilient, so you can fill it with any substance, even molted metal, for example tin metal.
beautiful music...
I think people are gonna cast their own model planes now like they buy a model then cast so many of them to build :/
The silicone easy part find diy stuff to put in what u need to make ?
Arent gypsum broke easily?
i think 1kg two part silicone for around $20-30 would be cheaper than 100g in tube for $8
Seems it would be cleaner to work with.
8:00 i guess you took plastic injection molding quite literally :P. nice videos, thank you!
All I can is wow, fantastic!!
Still can't find the right silicon (tube) in USA that will work. What I have been doing is using Sculpey Bake Shop (oven baked clay) from Wal-mart $0.99 for 2.4oz. to use for making molds. What I have been doing is working the clay to soften it. Then add a light coating of Baby powder (rub on with your finger) then press the item you want to make a mold of into the clay. Then remove the item and fill in the mold with resin mix and let the mold set. Makes greats mold and the clay can be reused over and over. Have made a dozen molds and the baby powder has not effected the clay. Just work the clay to soften it before you make your next mold.
update. pulled it up. bottom wasn't dry. flipped it gonna try tomorrow
I'd like to see a vid of that, sound nice and easy to me
Very easy to do.
1- Simple work the clay to soften it - because the clay is kind of stiff when you 1st pick it up.
2 - I usually roll it up into a ball.
3 - Sprinkle Baby powder onto the clay then use your finger to spread the baby powder to make a thin layer on top of the clay.
4 - press the item you want to make a mold of into the clay.
5 - remove the item that was pressed into the clay.
6 - fill the mold with resin to make the mold.
7 - let the resin set, then pulled the item from the mold. Easy to clean the mold after you made it.
* Clay, since it is a baked clay can be used over and over. Store clay in zip-lock bag for next use.
thx
results. I wanted to be sure it was dry.
completely stuck. my attempt with the silicone was a failure
This is great :) I will try it
is there anything i can buy at wallmart thats a good plastic mix?
A genius!!!!
3 sides isn't genius
Can you use clay as a model?
Děkuji za skvělou radu. Mámě jsem odlil naušnice a je nadšená.:)
please buy another glove , sir
That is the most complicated method I've ever seen, but it works!
Please do clarify which part in this was in any way complicated?
Why silicone don't glue one original plastic stuff ?
I feel like the answer is "because it doesn't" or maybe "because chemistry"
which powder is that?
Only one glove? When you say cheap, you mean cheap!