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Blue Stuff/Oyumaru - How to cheaply cast miniatures or plastic models - new version
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- čas přidán 22. 10. 2016
- Only for personal use.
Blue Stuff
www.greenstuffworld.com/en/
part1 - How to paint cockpit - www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDG9z...
part2 - Self-made improvements - www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-U44...
part3 - How to Use Washes Oil www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXerp...
part4 - Riveting and Rescribing Panel Lines - www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvdJ6...
part5 - Weathering using aquarelle crayons - www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfRcJ...
part6 - How to paint and create stencils RAF roundels - www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_J0J...
part7 - Airbrush tutorial, tips for better airbrushing - www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH5OH...
part8 - How to paint inline engine - www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYGQz...
part9 - Resin accessories - www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_Mbc...
My web: www.plasticmodels.eu/
David Damek
Music:
www.bensound.com
Grégoire Lourme
- Super Nova
bensound
- goinghigher
- cute
- happiness
machinimasound.com/music/the-...
Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
(creativecommons.org/licenses/b...)
Games Workshop hates this video.
nah i dont think so. if you look at 12:35, you lose the majority of details, which can be easily spotted for the experienced eye, especially when its painted...
they downvoted it over 400 times
@@J.P.Satrio haha don't need a experienced eye too see that their is no detailing within the hole parts on the arm
Good, those greedy bastards...
Its ok for bits but it is stupid to make a whole miniatures cause your fav game will fall
This may be useful as I tend to break parts on my model kits while painting.
Heh, funny to see you hear. Love your videos man.
Quick tip for everyone btw: using a hair dryer to make the blue stuff malleable is easier and quicker. For millput, mix it for 5 mins and let it sit for 10 to 20 mins, the milliput will be soft enough to press into the mold, but won't be too soft to break apart or leave too much residue/bits on the mold or hands. I heard about using a little bit of baby powder in the blue stuff molds to get better detail, but havent tried it yet.
How did you break them while painting???
Papa Gundam is here!
Oh daddy Gundum. He models big robots just like me OwO.
Notice me daddy UwU
Eyyy keep modeling buddy
Love the detailed explanation, showing us every step of the way.
Even 4 years later you are still helping people getting into the hobby.
The most epic water boiling scene I’ve ever seen
Twas lit, my good sir
Even better was the pouring of the boiling water.
Boiling water was interesting, yes
This stuff has been around in Japan for a while and I always find that using polyester putty or tamiya light curing putty or uv bondic type resin. Since its transparent light curing putty's are very nice to work with and get into all the corners without the worry of dry time. Good luck! Also for complicated molds throw some talc powder inside molds then, Blow it out leaving tiny film of powder this will help with pulling putty out and keeps mold together for duplicates
Tamiya makes some insanely useful modelling stuff. I just got the entire line of weathering powder and it has revolutionized my painting the same way washes did when they came out.
Tamiya are God's!
Oh, this looks incredible! I recently ordered a very rare unreleased toy that is missing a few components that most fortunately have duplicates (the same piece six times but missing two), and everything I've been looking at is prohibitively expensive (several hundred USD). The fidelity of the minis you made with this tutorial are incredible and I think more than sufficient for what I'm doing, and evidently I can get an entire setup for like $25 USD. I'm going to try it; wish me luck! Thank you for posting this!
UPDATE: it worked perfectly! This stuff is basically a miracle product and cut a $200-$400 repair down to only $30! 11/10 would recommend to any sort of toy repair
Just out of curiosity, what material did you fill the mold with? A two part epoxy from a hardware store, or something else? Great to hear someone had such good results! I got a ton of fantasy bits, but very few body’s to put them on, so was planning to make extras for personal use.
Just bought some. No idea what I'm going to cast yet, but you've convinced me I need it! ;-)
'bumpy' miniature bases that you ran out of is a great starting point
Clone some havocs! Maybe the reaper chain cannon....
Extremely helpful tutorial! I got back into fantasy table-top gaming and the miniatures when the pandemic hit. I have several "odd lots" of boxes that contained incomplete or broken minis. I'm now using this method for making the missing pieces by molding a complete piece from an identical miniature. I've resurrected about 80 minis in a month that would have gone into the melting pot otherwise. Thanks sooo much for sharing!
My dude, you've saved me a lot of hassle. I've been after such a product for years at this point and seeing how easy it is, I'm impressed
I use a product called steel stick. It's used in plumbing repair. It's a two part epoxy and hardens in 5 min. You could pump out a 500 point army in 4hrs.
Also they have this exact product from Japan. It's used as a clay substitute. It's called Oyumaru.
The Cocked Die steel stick?
@@aliyaabdukadir2043 There are a number of two part epoxy sticks at auto parts and plumbing stores. What Cocked Die is referring to has steel powder in it for added strength in auto and plumbing repairs. JB Weld, Quick Weld, JB Quik and other names for basically the same products. I'm not sure how good any of them will be if you want to keep a lot of fine detail, but they're easier to find than pourable silicone for mold making.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff probably not. I think steel powder epoxies have a max working temp that is below the melt temp of lead free pewter. You might get one or two casts of poor quality. Metal (pewter) will need high temp silicone.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff look for tin cured silicone rubber. Mold Max 60 has a maximum working temp of 560F and pewter melts at about 500F. The minimum thickness of your mold walls should be 6mm or 1/4 inch at the thinnest place.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff I don't know what to tell you. I looked on ebay for "pewter casting silicone" and had lots of results but I'm in the US. None of the options are inexpensive. If you can cast in plastic or resin (epoxy) you'll have a lot more options. Good luck
I had a go with this stuff, and had trouble. The plastic stays soft for a very short time indeed. I used water that had just boiled, and when I took the soft plastic out, I had just a few seconds to make a mould, and it took four attempts to make my first one. Then, mixing the Milliput took quite a while, and then getting the putty into the far corners and undercuts of the mould was very difficult.
seeing your comment was a pleasant surprise :D love your videos good sir!
Lindybeige could you use a hair dryer to keep the blue stuff manageable ?just a thought
Hm... Maybe use a sculpting tool for the corners. As to the processing time, it depends on the actual temperature. Did you use a metal bowl? that sucks up a lot of thermal energy. Also, some people have more problems touching hot materials than others. I've seen People handle stuff without mittens that others would immediately drop.
A better way i have found is to buy two part liquid resin, the 1st part is to make a lego box, put half the (hot/warm) instant mould in the bottom jam it down hard, the press the part you want to make down into it. leave it in there. get the 2nd half hot, push it in on top. when it cools, pull them part, make a channel, mix up the resin, pour it in done. (test the volume 1st with water to work out the volume needed).
Haha I just watched one of your videos before watching this. And I had just ordered some blue stuff. Hope I have better luck!
i'll probably never use this in my life but I just watch the whole video
Same
Same for the first phrase, and a nice video it is.
what the hell happened here
:D
I've been looking for a molding method like this for decades. Amazingly easy too with no sticky mess.
Thank you for posting this video. I saw customers hoping you would. A lot of reviews say this is difficult to get used to using, but seeing this video, I now understand that it is not a problem with the product as much as it is a problem with their unrealistic expectations and ability to follow instructions and use tools.
In over 40 years of model building that is the most amazing product I have ever seen. THAT is a game changer. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.
Another fantastic video from your self, the blue stuff looks like it will be another great product to add to the modellers tool kit. Keep up the good work David.
That stuff looks incredible. Thanks for the info Plasmo.
Protip for those difficult parts to cast (eg: necron immortal pair of legs)
If you don't want to cut the original piece or try to make 3 part molds you can actually cover most of the details of the model with the blue stuff, once the cast is ready remove the piece and then fill it with milliput, wait for it to dry, retire the upper part (usually the one with less contact with the original piece), just immerse into water the other part of the mold, this will make it softer, allowing you to remove it far easier from fragile parts without damaging them.
Of course after this the mold would end warped, but that's no problem, if you still need it just cast the part again, you will get to clone fragile parts such as necron legs, chaos spikes, etc. without having to resculpt them or paste the broken bits, actually saving time.
Watching this video reminded me that I have some "Instant Mould" somewhere. I got it from a friend who ordered it from overseas, and I only ever used it once, to make a simple one-part Green Stuff casting. Worked well, if I recall.
This is fantastic! It is a perfect tutorial and demonstrated a material I have never heard of and will prove incredibly useful for my handmade woodworking projects! Thanks so much!
I NEVER HAVE TO BUY THUNDER HAMMERS AGAIN THANK YOU SOME MUCH.
The social spoon have you tried it? Is it good?
The social spoon Yup. I'm curious how did you end up as well. Did you save some money and made FW livid?
@@jamesc8057 I use it for tyranids, it takes awhile to figure out the rough volume to make the piece cause too much will mess up the final product, its actually great
@@necrosisofphilosophy5247 I am very late and quite new to warhammer, but I want to make a tyranid army and reaching out to as many tyranid players as I can is a goal. Would you happen to know anything about making a winged conversion for the units? Do you have any recommendations?
@@Kodaiva my recommendation in 9th edition is monsters. The small troops are good but there are so many ways to take them off the board that having mostly monsters is best rn. Tyranid solders I never got any good results with them.
This stuff is fantastic! Going to be getting merit's new 1/350 hms ark royal soon but was disappointed with how little aircraft are supplied with it, but this stuff will let me mould more planes for the carrier's air group! Thank you for showing this as it will help me soon :)
Christoff1996 on that same issue, im looking at scratch building a model of the planned HMS Habbakuk (the monster ice carrier) and wondered how i would get aircraft in 1/700 scale, now i just have to find a 1/700 B17 for me to cast
I've been using oyumaru for ages but never had much success with 2 part moulds. This method looks fantastic - thanks for the great video - I'll definitely give it a go!
This is great! Ive been playing 40k for about 2 years and I love Drukhari and want to start a Haemonculi Coven army but all of the Coven stuff is outlandishly expensive even by GW standards (with the exception of maybe the Talos kit) This will help me get Wracks up and running, thanks!
Based
Doing the same for a knight themed guard army using Arbites body’s an heads, would love to hear how your army turned out, what resign or two part epoxy did you use?
this is a godsend, I've been thinking of making molds for very small parts. this will be a lot easier than using resin and silicone. thanks david! I'll try this out soon.
Interesting !, Thanks for that.
*Epic music plays while boiling water in electric kettle* THAT'S THE GOOD STUFF! xD
Great video, seriously! Have your thumbs up!
And then the ass-stabbing ukelele/xylophone crap starts up just as the more interresting part begins. UGH.
I used to think epoxy putty wasn't viable for making miniatures or action figures because it wasn't plastic, but when I see how well it works that doesn't matter to me anymore, and now I wanna try epoxy putty AND Blue Stuff! Thank you for sharing this. ^^
I've been using these sticks for 15 years now. Incredibly convenient. And it works with resin epoxy too.
Greetings from Australia.This is a great tutorial. I have just ordered some Blue Stuff from Spain. This will make great molds for my fishing lure making hobby. Thank you for showing the qualities and characteristics of blue stuff. From my own experience of mold making, if you want to reduce the excess epoxy putty from forming 'flash' you could try making some excess sprue escape holes by pushing soft solder wire onto the blue stuff mold at strategic points when you form your mold. This will then give the excess epoxy putty somewhere to go when you force the two halves together. Soft solder will easily follow the uneven surface of the mold half.
Regards Dave
In the future, for Australians it is probably easier to get some Oyumaru from japan, it is the same type of molding material
Great video David, looks like a really good method of making extra parts !!
Been trying to get this product to work for some time. Small bits with super fine detail probably not what this product was intended for. Really liked the video, thanks for making it so professional.
I was looking at how to mold plastic for car parts and I think that this could work. I am amazed at how well this turned out. Using this you could make any simple small car part. Example: switch cover. Make an emblem to put on your hood. Or just some plastic washers. Anyway just keep what ever you are making out of the engine compartment and you should be fine
"WOW" I have just purchased this BlueStuff after seeing this and I cant wait to have a go. Thank you for posting this video PLASMO dude
How it came out? Do you recommend this?
Now I can finally make the missing backpacks for my Stormtrooper Guardsmen :)
For realz! I have two missing turbo lasers on my old chaos battleship now well out of production, be real nice to be able to fabricate new ones and restore my old model for former glory!
The very reason why I have ordered some of this stuff. OOP Kasrkin backpacks.
Thank you for an amazing tutorial. I learn from you every time you speak. I subbed just recently (maybe one week) and I am hooked
ABSOLUTELY AWESOME !!!! Thank you very much for sharing your tips. Keep yourself, family, and friends safe and healthy.
Thanks David. Appreciate the time in making this video. Would like to see you doing a motorcycle build.
a very good tutorial Sir I am amazed at the simplicity of this product
Hi David, this is the first time i ever wrote a comment. This is the best ever instructional video i have come across. I am also into miniature collecting.
this is fantastic and thanks for showing us.
Hopefully we have this BLUE STUFF in Australia.
Now this is superb! i shall be giving it a go. Thanks David ☺
You’re right, this one is a better version! Thanks again!
First found your site when making and painting models, now found this film it was just what i was looking for thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you for this video! You have changed the way I am approaching so many projects!
looks really interesting, and looks like it works really well, would love to be able to duplicate expensive aftermarket.
as always Keep up the good work!
thanks
That's exactly the thing I've been looking for.
Thanks David :)
thanks for the tutorial BRILLIANT! I have been looking for this kind of stuff for years :)
Thanks for this video man! I've been wanting to get into miniatures and customizing, but have had difficulty finding materials. This helps so much. Now I just need to learn how to paint
it's juste AMAZING!! I discovered blue stuff watching your vidéo. thanks for the tip. it's cheap, easy to use, what else?!!
YOU sir, are the BOMB! Thanks for posting, I'll probably be using this!
Thank you for this informational video. I've learned something new and can't wait to try this stuff out for myself.
Thank you for this video. You explained very well on how to use this blue stuff.
oh man I wanted to start a primaris space wolves army, this will be great for cloning all the details off the grey hunters and blood claws.
Good stuff! This technique would be great for creating tabletop scenery that you need in bulk but don't want to have to buy loads of; crates, barrels, etc.
5:19 "But wait"; amazing advice. This is what I couldn't figure out, going over it in my head. Excellent video matey!
Thanks for the great review, this appears to be a wonderfull product, and a good and very economic alternative to silicone molds!
well some of the details will be lost but to fast fix a missing part (one pair of legs are missing for exemple) this seems perfect
I used the exact same epoxy putty and found it brittle/breaks easily for small or thin parts. For e.g. in the video you showed briefcases and rifles. Did you not have trouble with the briefcase handles and rifle barrels breaking? I broke my parts when I was removing flash with clippers. It makes me feel like if you ever dropped your miniature, the parts would break off.
I am going to give this a try. Thank you for the comprehensive tutorial
I love the music at the start. Makes it feel like you are teaching us how to forge the Ring of Power
"I put in on to boil." EPIC MUSIIIICCCC!!!!!!
I turn up the sound so I can hear you then the music comes on and blast my ears.
Great video, I'm going to puck myself up some of this stuff as it looks great!
Hey David, Iam very glad to have found your channel. Very interesting everything you post, congratulations and keep moving forward.
That's a great tutorial. Now to see if that stuff is available in my country :-)
Steve Watts gave us info that Blue Stuff is same like Japanese Oyumaru. You can look for it.
@@idaemonplasmo Can you buy it in the UK?
I could see this being used to replicate parts that you would rather not destroy through kit bashing. And it is the fastest way to figure out who is an elitist a-hole.
For me it would be making extra parts you don't receive enough of (Bolt Action Player, you only get FOUR Springfield rifles for a box of 30 figures.)
The fuck?!
@@RockSplitter You get plenty of weapons, but most of those are M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, and Thompson SMGs, i want a force with mostly Springfields.
No this is the fastest way: "I just 3d scan each kit I buy and print the parts I need as I need them. Seriously dude, my army cost like, 245 total. Counting the printer and resin. You payed what... 500 bucks for those Orks? Lol." Seriously though, get a resin printer. Saves you so much cash.
@@MeepChangeling what do you use for 3D scanning, and do you need to do any cleanup after scanning?
GAME CHANGER FOR MAKING OUR OWN PARTS! 🙏 THANK YOU
Genius!!!! Thanks for this. Part 36 is no longer missing from my kit!
right now I'm sold on the blue stuff for doing individual tank track links any tips lol
Your kettle needs a jolly good clean..................
Raymond Ashby
That's a lot of full stops
Ore wa!!!!!!
Chin Chin The Dark Lord ORE WA
limescale is a pain to clean
I guess its kettle only for projects like this
thanx for the show - I was looking long time for something like this stuff...
Wow! That was amazing! I should really look into getting some Blue Stuff! =D
how exactly do you get the epoputty to dry as hard as warhammer miniatures? whenever i do this, my molds shape it perfectly, but the epoputty itself always comes to an almost soapy texture. like it feels hard at first, but if you put any pressure whatsoever on it it crumbles. i am mixing it as evenly as possible, what could be the cause?
I am having the same problem, I am wondering if there's a big difference between brands.
I'm using Milliput and it's real fragile.
Bumbling Brit throw it in the freezer for Abit.
I use a mixture of 50% milliput and 50% greenstuff. Mix the greenstuff first, then the milliput and then mix them together. After it cures, the result is harder and less bendy than greenstuff but not nearly as brittle as milliput.
Either bad quality epoxy putty, improper mixing (not thorough enough or wrong proportions), old material or whatever you're using is not actually a two-part epo putty. A two-part epo putty contains the working material in one part and a hardener in the other - if thoroughly mixed, it has everything inside of it to make it harden and there should be little to no difference between the outside and inside. The effect you're describing is more common with air-dry materials or materials that use moisture in the air to advance the reaction (like type I silicone).
This is a great idea. I do metal casting and would like to try this to make wax patterns for lost wax casting. Is this product still available. A google search only shows a few suppliers that do not stock it any more. I am in the UK.
look for Polycaprolactone (PCL) on aliexpress.
www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Stuff-8bars-Make-reusables-instant-mold-Warhammer-40k-OOAK-doll-reborn-/281141641334?hash=item4175590076:g:NccAAOSwpDdVcfyd
Does not ship to UK, where I live.
Sorry, don't know why the would ship to the US and not the UK. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them the past few years. Maybe if you send them a message or do a search on Amazon, Ebay or the web. Use search words "Instant Mold", "Blue Stuff" or "Oyumaru". I have used both, the blue stuff and Oyumaru. I like the blue stuff better, but I think they are the same thing. They are great for one sized molds, and good for two sided molds for small parts. I just started converting toy soldiers and this is a great way to change the way a figure looks by adding different weapons, helmets, shields or something else. Next I will be changing arms, heads and other parts that I make or clone. I have a blog page, if your interested. Good luck, Mike.
warhorseminiatures.com/
Yes they seem to have something against the UK, shipping is to lots of other countries.
I have been trying moulds made with silicone sealer, corn flour and sunflower oil and it works very well for one and two part moulds.
Great Video. I have the clear stuff and I think it just takes a little time getting used to how to handle the stuff once it's moldable. It took me a couple tries but I managed to make an awesome mold. I will cast 20 items from this mold and then I will reheat for the next one. I like that it's reusable. I am using resin and UV resin which, so far, works great. The clear stuff is fabulous for UV resin. I make miniatures and love it. Thanks for sharing!
fantastic! thank you for sharing this. I'm definitely going to try and get some for sure.
Děkuji ! I just burned my fingers on blue stuff, was too excited about this stuff :)
All that water trapped in when setting it will lead to.lower fidelity. You really need to dab it dry first
I agree. It's instinctive to know to pat it dry.
Absolutely brilliant. Can't wait to get this at some point just to have fun with it.
Awesome video mate. Seriously good job. If the blue stuff wasn't so hot when moldable, I would try and cast my own face.
But miniatures will do for now, until I can be bothered working with plaster.
Subscribed.
Seems great but how well would it work if I put green stuff in the moulds?
the green stuff will work too for one side mold. If you will use two sided molds, then you'll have problems sometimes. I mean create a strong bond from both halves.
@@idaemonplasmo glue
Very helpful, I ordered some to play with. I'm also going to mold some of my 3d prints.
been using this stuff for a long time it's great and a cheap way of duplicating expensive models on a small budget I'd recommend Blue stuff for anyone who needs those extra arms and legs etc
Thanks man, I can make replacement my missing model kit part 😄👍 from Indonesia 🇮🇩
Now I can start my new pirate figures replicas business!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
Finally I can cast my lego clone helmets, now I just need something to paint the bodies...
Decal maybe easier as paint
kutkuknight lmao exactly what I'm going To so
Wow! That blue stuff is amazing!
Very useful video! Thanks a lot for sharing. Greetz from Germany. :) Jens
I used this technik since 27 jears.
I learned it at work - i'm a technik dentist.
Whit this kind of dublikating i make many stuff by my own for low budget.
It is very simple and usefull ... 8-)
Looks fantastic / keen to give this a go. I wonder how long before the GW legal goons start beating their chest :-)
Really depends on the country, in some it's illegal even for personal use, as far as i know though in most countries it falls on a grey area of legality, which means that juries/judges will decide if yours is fair use or not because there's not a strict law on it
Considering that the detail is completely lost, I doubt GW really cares. Casting has been around for a long time, and this isn't even the best method (again, the detail is lost because the material is too soft and pliable).
Amazing! Looks like fun. Intricate details are all there. Thank you.
Yes I'm very excited for my oyumaru to arrive! I ordered an entire box of the stuff so I can make miniature resin bottles (like the potion bottles from Witcher 3).
The 'X' on the Epo Putty means you better put on some gloves.
This is good to know, i went off useing epoxy putty after it made the webbing of my fingers blister and my eyes go all puffy .
billyjimbobjr I'd advise not trying to take copies of your eyes using this method. ;-p
billyjimbobjr Maybe you're allergic? I've mixed and used at least 7 or 8 packs of the stuff so far without gloves and all it does is make my fingers raw (Rolling anything sticky in your fingers for hours will do that🚡)
aww dang, you might be right. i should maybe get tested.
you have webbed fingers?
It doesn't look like it captures detail very well.
Part of that is down to the method. The blue putty still looked wet during its molding, capturing some water, and the user was going pretty quickly with the epoxy, which itself seemed to be a bit thick for fine detail. I think this stuff did pretty well, for basically being high-temp silly putty.
A lot of TLC and a fair bit of luck is required to get even some of the finer detail to transfer over.. don't expect it to be a perfect (or even close) mirror of the original piece being molded. They will almost always look like they have a really thick coat of primer on them :p
@@ARescueToaster There are a few videos that show this getting a high level of detail on other channels.
@@darkstorminc I'll have to check those out! I imagine it's not easy to do, though?
@@ARescueToaster iirc you will need to have a mold box for best results. Some recommend using legos which I think would work out well.
Wow, thank you so much for this. I'm definitely doing this.
Thank you SO MUCH. Finally something I can buy and do. I am just not good with things like resins, silicone, corn starch etc.
Damn, that's the same suff i have in my moughguard. I'm ashamed i didn't think of using the same material for molds :/
You wouldn't want to - anything that's medical or consumable grade is far more expensive.
Bravo! The only disadvantage I can see is that your detail becomes soft below half a millimetre or so...
I think it would be perfect for recasting 90’s GW plastic miniatures from warhammer quest, talisman third edition and warhammer fantasy battle as their detail is lacklustre as plastic casting wasn’t that advanced back than so this stuff could perfectly capture it and in warhammer quest you can never have enough monsters like night goblins so this would help as right now plastic GW's from the 90’s are expensive and I own a couple but not many and I don’t want to fork up a fortune to get more.
Patrick Gnoblar actually it works very well at picking up small details. It picked up a fingerprint (oil) on a flat spot on a part. At first I was annoyed, but then I realized how well it worked. It picked up small file marks, finger prints, knife marks, and mold lines that had been smoothed down. It works very well for mold making.
Earl Bernie that’s interesting, so you are telling me that this stuff could copy detailed models perfectly where do you think it caps out on detail? On a scale from LEGO mini-figure to forgeworld greater daemon where does this stuff cap out on what it can capture in the mold? I assume that it can do modern GWs if it can do fingerprints and knife marks but I am having trouble imagining this doing forgeworlds newer models. Either way I am still going to copy that one chaos dwarf I got from talisman third editions city expansion and slowly copy enough of them (and modify them) to have a large AoS army. But let’s say I want a forgeworld daemonsmith for my chaos dwarfs could I copy that high detail model?
Patrick Gnoblar imgur.com/gallery/MfTIDeL here is a custom Avatar I did. The shoulder pad was done with oyumaru. The blade that is coming out had my finger print in it, so I filed it down. I did this with green stuff and a wire inside it while it was setting up to support it. As long as you take your time (yeah I know it's not a lot of time) and make sure you press the oyumaru into the model, it will copy the detail.
Patrick Gnoblar imgur.com/gallery/bxpGLSG sorry for the other potato pic. Here is a close up of it.
You just rocked my miniature world thanks :)
This has been a very nice video to watch, thank you for sharing :)!