$30 vs $300 Men's Dress Shirt - How To Spot Quality Shirts & Avoid Crap - Gentleman's Gazette
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
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00:00 Introduction
DRESS SHIRT QUALITY HALLMARKS
01:09 1. Pattern
If the pattern is matched on the sleeve and the shoulder on both sides, you know it's a quality shirt because someone paid attention to it.
02:05 2. Stitching & Stitch Density
The higher the stitch density, the higher the quality of the shirt overall. Also, you want to look for consistency of the stitching. The best way to look at the stitching is at the bottom hem where it's round.
A quality shirt will always have a single needle stitching which takes a little more time but creates a cleaner look. On the other hand, a low-end shirt will double needle stitching
03:27 3. Collar & Cuffs
A lower end shirt will typically have a stiff interlining in the collar and it just comes in one level of stiffness. On the other hand, a higher-end shirt will either give you an option to go with a softer interlining or something stiffer.
05:09 4. Yoke
Traditionally, they were split in half because people usually have one shoulder that is usually more sloped than the other and they use that part to correct that. Today, most factory made shirts and even made to measure shirts don't even take that into consideration anymore so all you can look at is the yoke split in the back. if so, it's another step, it's more expensive, it helps to match the pattern on the sleeve and it's basically all it is.
05:49 5. Buttons
A $30 shirt will likely have plastic buttons and they're sometimes made to look like mother of pearl.
07:09 Shank or No Shank
The next detail to look at is how the button is actually sewn onto the shirt.
08:07 6. Sleeves & Armholes
Most of the time, relatively inexpensive shirts or low-end shirts have huge armholes and that makes them uncomfortable to wear because as soon as you lift your arms, everything moves up and becomes uncomfortable.
08:38 7. Machine-Sewn vs. Hand-Sewn Buttonholes
If you have a machine buttonhole that was first sewn and then cut, you have fraying edges on the inside and it just looks bad. On the other hand, a high-quality machine sewn buttonhole has a very high stitch density and you will not find fraying threads.
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Remember the video isn't about getting you to spend more money on a shirt. It's to prevent people telling you a shirt is worth more than it really is.
Well said.
Yes, this! Also using this to understand "cost per wear" and that a $200-300 shirt can end up costing you less overall, in addition to looking and feeling so much better, than a bunch of cheap shirts you have to replace and look and feel awful.
Quality requires investment of money, or time (if vintage shopping or sewing something yourself).
@@claremiller9979 seriously. I can't tell you how many cheap shirts I've bought that after the first laundering, I legitimately can't wear ever again because they distorted so much. Then on the other hand I have high end shirts that are 15 years old that look brand new... It's not a myth!
@@claremiller9979 yea, $150 pair of boots vs $50 pair of boots example holds up over SO many different use cases, it’s amazing! Including this one!
@@bivensrkthis is very true. I have a nice pair of combat boots instead of some low grade standard issue. They feel so nice. I’ve taken them on long distant marches (10-20 miles practicing for a marathon). They are still in super good shape. I was honestly so tired and sometimes out of oxygen for a bit so I just kept trucking along with no care how I treated my boots.
I just got some custom shirts. I’ve been wear RTW stuff that just doesn’t fit me because that’s all I knew and could afford at the time. I will only go custom from now on personally. It’s what will fit my odd body shape (very broad shoulders for my height) and complement my shape at the same time. I honestly don’t even care what other people think of me in my custom shirts. I got them for myself because I didn’t feel comfortable in what I was wearing. I feel confident and comfortable in what I am wearing when I go to work or go somewhere a little fancy (I have French cuff on all my shirts). I am just really glad to have watched his ironing video because I didn’t know about the infused collar. Mine is unfused and this was the first time I’ve ever really ironed. I followed his steps and I got some compliments at work on my shirt specifically.
I am watching this guy. Bought shoes from AceMarks based on his other video. Now shirts.
Slowly going broke while looking filthy rich lol.
He is an advertisement guy....I am happy with my Next and M&S suits, accessories and Clarks shoes...buy them on discounts and replace them with new ones every 3-4 years. Still look decent and feel very comfortable...No fuss more fun😉
😂
Ace Marks = garbage. Blake stitch
D William
You should watch the Trenton & Heath review of their shoe
You should also look in shops that sell used clothes whenever you get the chance. Sometimes you can find something nice for very little money.
It would be very helpful for these types of videos if you could name some brands for each level of quality. Also, it would be nice if you made some recommendations in the medium and high end shirts that you admire for quality.
I agree
New video out a few weeks ago about this!
An even better way to know is, if you live in a city with men, just visit your local habadashery. They should know this information, and you can also see and feel, discuss the differences in quality. See what looks good on you
Just got kicked out of a Brooks Brothers store. Thanks.
You should be thankful
Why?
Did you lick the buttons??
You're not supposed to EAT the buttons!
@Rollo Larson lol I thought you meant literally,
Still funny to imagine
Pro tip: If you’re slim, buy shirts from Korea/korean websites. Korean’s are so obsessed with dressing and appearing richer than they are and thus produce high quality garments that look more stylish than most American clothes. Usually “stylish” or “dapper” clothes in America are in the hundreds and even thousands of dollars. In Korea you can get a custom fitted shirt for $30. Even a $20 non custom shirts usually fits much better than American shirts because shirts from usa have no contouring lines to them.
And usually stuff in Korea is super expensive Or just as expensive as in the US. But because of high supply and high demand, nice clothes are relatively cheap.
They don't want to look rich most people from Korea want comfort and keep up with the fasion
then u probably dont know the indian market
What Korean brands do you recommend for great dress shirts?
I own some high quality shirts but I have to say that for everyday wear Charles Tyrwhitt's shirts are fantastic value, especially the promotional offers. Far superior to many more expensive department store shirts I have bought.
Fast fashion and high street brands have been improving their stitching and else since this video was created... A better tell is the fabric: the certain luster, the subtle, delicate balance between stiffness/softness/support/elasticity, the way it follows your moves, etc.
Good cotton fabric has a neat surface with very little "facial hair". If you look at the yarn under a microscope, you'll see thinner yet denser, smoother threads in quality shirts. Even though an expensive dress shirt is very thin, there are clear, neat, 3-dimensional ridges and grooves on the fabric, which reflect lights and create a certain soft luster.
The yarn used to weave cheap fabric are looser and fuzzier, and the ridges and grooves are blurred because of the loose, hairy threads. Cheap cotton fabric looks hairy if you look at it from a certain angle.
Also, a good dress shirt doesn't create a muffin top even if it's oversized. I'm a 5'4", 100 pounds skinny woman, and quality men's shirts in XL size nicely follow my shoulders and waist when tucked in, while cheap cotton shirts often pop up like a balloon.
Is there a specific reason why you prefer an XL, seems like a medium or even a men's small would fit better? Or is it about the extra room?
I am a precision machinist, now called a Scientific instrument maker. I can appreciate the precision. Great video, thank you for teaching me something I knew nothing about. I learned from you about how to look at clothes and the details to look for in made quality.
Amazing detail, examples and information in your video. Definitely will go through my wardrobe and examine my shirts. Excellent work Raphael!
300 dollars for a shirt... God damn. it better powder my ass for that price.
good fabric doesn't come cheap.
$50 per yard
Tbh If you don't have a really weird body shape I don't think bespoke shirts are worth it. Just get decent made to measure shirts for about 90 - 150 dollars per piece. If the fabric is decent and thread okayish (if they become lose it's usually easy to fix) you are good to go and the shirts will last you a long time.
if you're paying $300 for a shirt, that's god's way pf telling you, you make too damn much money.
Loll! I'm gonna pay not more than $60
"you make too damn much money." No such thing as making too much money
I have a lot of experience with low-end shirts and it's these kind of videos that make me appreciate the craftmanship of higher quality items. Personally I don't think it's worth it to buy expensive stuff unless you understand what makes it special.
I know a lot about guitars and often times people don't simply understand what they should be looking for in a quality instrument. I don't think shirts are any different.
THIS! SO THIS!!! I went to check the oil of a rather expensive SUV and saw that the dipstick had a braided surface to it all the way down and that the measurement area was a crosshatch pattern, instead of a cheap piece of tin. You’re absolutely right, knowing what goes into that price is extremely important!
@@bivensrk wow, they make cars so cheap some have just a cheap piece of tin? Every car I've ever owned since my first car have had braided/crosshatch pattern on the stick. But I live in America, and I've only owned AMG-Mercedes and an e36 Bimmer. I guess they don't consider those cheap.
@hannuback when you do know what to look for (by watching gentlemen gazette videos over the past 6-10+ years and buying/owning/going to shops so you can consistently see and learn, then googling those items even) you can easily see quality, in not just your clothes but what other people wear. I can tell if their shoes are Italian or just some knock-off to look nice from the local store. Blazers/Coats are the easiest to tell, shirts I used to love double and triple-stitching which most people never even know existed. Then single needle stitching for custom jobs.
@@mr.s1961 Not sure if you're being sarcastic and I also realize I might not have been very clear. The metal is probably similar but it's obvious that the design labor going into making the dipstick was more than that of something like an Accord.
Thank you for the video, always very informative.
I would also suggest to check the seams at the bottom of the armhole, close to the armpit: in bespoke shirts and (very) high quality shirts, the sleeve under seam DOESN'T match the side seam of the body of the shirt. That indicates a much complex contruction of the shirts, in which the sleeves are set and sewn (usually by hand) only after the body has been finished, so that the sleeves fall in a more natural position and follow beautifully the arm movements. In medium and low quality shirts (let say the 99% of the shirts in the market), the sleeve under seam runs uninterruptedly, from the wrist, through the armpit, to the hip. That's because it's sewn AFTER the armhole seam is completed. That indicates a much easier construction, resulting in a flat shirt.
Lately, many shirt makers try to imitate high quality shirts adding a lot of features usually found on them, like mother of pearl buttons, high density stitches, and sometimes even hand made details (i.e. the superficiality), but they cannot replicate an hand stitched armhole, it's just to complicated and time consuming.
Thank you for taking the time to describe all the very small points that make shirts quality shirts. This will definitely help me find some nice quality ones. Please talk about the fabric types & qualities as well in your future dress shirt videos!
Man, here I am thinking that my $25 shirts from Kohl's were a great deal; granted their sticker price were $60. Guess I have better chances finding good quality shirts at the Thrift Shop. Couldn't help but to look at my own shirt as I watched the video; result, I'm wearing a below average collar shirt with plastic buttons.
This is what I do. I am lucky to live near a large banking centre, so we have rich bankers that change and donate their shirts on a seasonal basis, most of which are in very good to excellent condition. They get a big tax cut and I end up with a $200+ shirt for $4 about 1 out of 5 visits.
Zone07 indochino
Yeah, I get my Stanford dress shirts at JC Penney's, originally like $70 I think, but they knock em down to $40.
@@pitiedvod Where is this if you don't mind my asking, I'd visit just to find some shirts!
This series is by far one of the most useful and comprehensive on youtube. I had to laugh on "you may be the weird guy licking at buttins at the store but at least you know it's a quality shirt" though :)
Great video, just what I was looking for
THANK YOU RAPHAEL
thanks for the wonderful video Sven!
Thank you!! To you and your staff. These videos are very informative. I have always loved being well dressed. However due to life events I have not been able to, up until 2020. I have found d amazing deals on ebay and thrift stores. All thanks to the advise in your videos. At work people already start to ask why I'm all dressed up (engineering field) amd all I did different was to have a well made dress shirt. Keep up the good work!!! Thank you kindly and I cant wait be able to afford some fort belvedere merchandise, beautiful garments.. much respect keep it up!!!
"So you don't buy crap" Love it.
Love the technical details.
This video made complete sense and I will remember to appreciate all the fine details and workmanship that went into making the quality shirts that i have. As far as brands go I found incredible value in the Hart Schaffner Marx Brand shirts that Dillards sells, also Lacoste has incredible quality in casual mens shirts. The Bugatchi brand is just OK but has great designs.
Dillards? Lacoste?
Jesus Christ....what year is it? Have we traveled back to 1983?
We are all coming out of a Pandemic , who cares if we wear a 30$ shirt or a 300$ shirt when we are all working from home. My neighorbood Dry Cleaners has closed down and that is the times we live in.
1983 would be great, usa made clothes, great quality
Around the world there will be a spike in random guys licking buttons.
lol
next video: How to lick buttons like a gentleman
someone is prone to get hiv, no thank you. he was not thinking when he gave us that idea.
Not from licking buttons...
Plus bitting them and tapping them with their car keys 'sir, please stop that tapping'... it would be best to take some antiseptic wipes with you. Oh well.. time to go to Saville Row, hmmm... 'Turnball and Asser' here I come...(James Bond/Sean Connery's shirts).
"You may be the weird guy licking buttons at the store" - hahah
That's better than taking a lighter/match to it to see how it smells.
Alexander Croft I didn't have to go far to find this
I will confess to a button licking fetish.
I almost peed myself :-DDD
Objective Objector i will do this on Rodeo😂
Fantastic.. always great information delivered!!!🥂🍾
I got a $110 dollar shirt and a week later I had an grease stain on it. It happens to all my shirts. I don't think I can do expensive shirts.
Bit of elbow grease in cleaning it should fix it.
Take off your shirt before you eat.
Time to attend eating school.
I have had shirts made to measure in Thailand. What a wonderful experience. You choose exactly the quality of fabric and pattern. .These are the best fitting shirts I have ,and cheaper than lesser quality off the shelf shirts at home.
That sounds more like bespoke than made to measure. Can you recommend some shops?
Wow! What a nice guy! Thank you for posting!
Your videos are spot on, not necessarily aiming for people that want to be a dandy, but someone to be successful and well groomed. When I retired from the Air Force and went into insurance sales, people automatically presumed I was the boss as I had 30 suits custom made for me and dressed to the nines, and kept my wardrobe updated as time passed.
thank you this will help me choose quality been wearing dress shirts lately
I think we all want a relatively saliva-free item when we walk out of a store..
You should watch the video where he and Preston go into the thrift store and start biting down on buttons to find out the material
good as always!But I was wondering if in the future you were planning to make any videos on dressing well as a young man and how to transition your wardrobe from casual to formal.If not,thank you anyways for all you do.
i didn't know G eazy quit his rapping career to teach us about style.
This guy would be great for his I Mean It video
Fr!
seeing Charles Tyrwhitt immediately listed as low quality hurt my soul, especially after I found their (cheaper) shirts off the rack shirts to be better than the Jos A Bank/Brooks Brothers shirts I'd been spending $70+ on. I don't doubt that better quality is more expensive, but man have I had a hard time when it comes to off the rack shirts.
I love your vids. You deserve more attention then you get.
Very nice! The discussion on buttons was delightful
Outstanding video!
Hi Sven. Given the tiers of quality that you mentioned, how many shirts is economically feasible for the low to mid tier demographic? There's also the question of quality vs quantity and the benefits of interchangeability which come with it.
Please make a video about which lower end shirt brand is best and so on...
awesome videos!
I can’t tell how I came right to your channel. I am a school teacher and I can’t afford high quality products but it is funny how I found myself engaged to what you say.
VERY informative, Mr. Schneider. Thank you, for taking the time to produce this video content!
This guy knows. Thank You for the help
Good and timely information, sir. I'm in the market for new shirts.
I love your videos! Would you mind giving your opinion on Suit Supply suits, shirts and products in general? Ideally I'd love a video review, but any feedback would be much appreciated. I like their styling, but I am unsure about the quality.
Wish you would have mentioned a few brands for different price ranges. Your 100 vs 500 shoe video pointed me to Cobbler Union, and I have fallen in love with the shoes I ordered from them.
Any recommendations to resources for someone interesting in making their own shirts? In my mind, once a person has made a pattern that suited them well, creating articles of clothing with different materials should be fairly easy, correct? Or is that oversimplified?
Love this! Even though even expensive women’s shirts don’t have half of what he tells are hallmarks of high quality.
this is the first non-academic youtube video that I took down notes of. Thanks a lot !
The gray double buttoned shirt in video looks great.
Very very informative, thank you!
Good explanation on shirt types
If you need to click a shirt's buttons against your teeth in order to perceive that it's technically better, then nobody around you notices or cares, and it probably isn't worth the extra $300.
I looked my shirts, and a I seen my £45-60 shirts is good button sewing. Why can buy a £300 shirt because my cheapest shirt is good quality? And why can buy more expensive shirt just for the buttons?
The material of my shirts is as good quality as the £300 shirts
@@babo1982410 If you can, why not?
The buttons are just a tell-tale sign of higher quality. I couldn't tell the difference between a cheap shirt and a good one, but my bro got me a $150 dress shirt once. I thought it looked "fine", but when my girlfriend saw me in it she was really impressed and she had no idea it was a gift or what it cost. Shoes are another area we guys don't see a difference but women sure do.
Ab C. Def buttons break in the washer and dryer all the time, having a mother of pearl button won’t break in the dryer
@@jonathanrouse a shirt with mother of pearl buttons should probably be dry cleaned haha
My most expensive shirt was 200 euro, a purple Scapa shirt for my wedding. Still wear it and I get many compliments when wearing it.
Your videos are invaluable. I am attempting to become more stylish, although it is a bit difficult due to my constant traveling. I tend to get the cheap tickets where they may charge you 100 dollars or more to bring a suitcase, so I mostly just travel with a carry-on. How would you pack a carry-on for a one week trip to a summery type climate, where you will walk a lot, work out AND go to nice restaurants? Is there some sort of "Swiss Army knife"-outfit that would work for lots of different purposes?
"You may be the weird guy who licks buttons in a store..." this video was worth that line alone, not to mention the sounsands of shirt lickers you've just created. Good show! ☺
Another way to detect mother of pearl is to rub two buttons together, plastic will feel smooth, and pearl will feel much more rough.
Very interesting! Sometimes l strike it lucky in charity shops aka thrift shops. Go in after New year when people have eaten so much that they have to get a new wardrobe! I once got an Armani suit for £20 then had It altered to my size. Mind you that was before the downturn in 2008. Go to the richer parts of town. Some of the shops are canny and spot the good stuff and sell it on eBay.
hilditch and keys, turnbull and asser, charvet, 100hand, marol, hermes, tom ford...
or for good value charles tyrwhitt
This was helpful! Recently purchased a few $200 shirts
I generally go the stitching, i.e. such as loose threads just dangling as a hallmark of quality or not.
Do you know where we can find a shirt with an old fashioned point collar, with points that are like 3 to 4 inches long? All point collars I see today are like 1 to 2 inches long
Very nice overview of quality shirts. Thanks.
I got a shirt from Hang ten for $25, the actual retail for that bad boy was $60 and it approves 4 of your methods but have plastic buttons so does that mean I'm wearing a quality shirt?
great video's ! my compliments
Awesome video.
Initially, I had thought that shirts with collar stays indicated a degree of quality. But I noticed that my Brioni and Eton shirts have Stays sewn into the collar. Not sure what the reasoning is behind that.
Wonderful video Raphael. If possible, please make a video regarding high quality Leather Jackets etc! :)
Charles Tyrwhitt in England does amazing quality shirts, best I’ve ever bought, for about 40 dollars.
Who makes the shirt you have the close up of at 1:42? Is that the same one on the mannequin throughout most of the video? (My computer screen is doing strange things to that pattern from a distance). I would love to have a shirt exactly like that if possible.
Thanks. Informative.
Sooo yeah for all of you out there who don't afford 150$+ shirts (heck, even 50$ might be a tad too much for some of us)...give T.M. Lewin a try.
London based, they say they make shirts for some 150 years or such. I placed two orders with them, most shirts can be slightly amended (neck circumference + sleeve length), fabrics are brilliant (even non-iron cotton, no polyester), plus they have lots of the "quality hallmarks" presented in here (minus the mother-of-pearl buttons). Prices usually start from ~30 euros but in sales you can get them for as low as 17 euros). I'm rather picky, while not having too much budget to spend. ;) (p.s. @gentleman's gazette, try them yourself)
when you said "rows" 3:13 it sounded like two of you together saying it lol
If you're at the point where all you can afford is a 30$ shirt, then maybe this isn't for you. But to that I say: save up for the 100$ shirt - it will last you until you grow out of it.
Once you have been wearing ~100$ shirts for a while you can start saving up for the 300$ shirts
Rye Hots how would you grow out of it!?
grow out of it style and preference wise. Like buying an expensive watch when you already own a 50$ timex
If you go to the gym and pack up some muscle
If rather save for retirement thanks
@@bullbou7003 that's actually the problem I've been Having lol
Great video. What brands do you like in the price points you mentioned?
Nice comparison of bespoke, made to measure and ready to ware shirts.
Going into so much details! Love it!
You just gain yourself new subscriber.
Thank you for the support! :)
you should really also recommend a few (unsponsored) brands within those price ranges so we dont have to go around being like "hey, i just licked the Calvin Klein button, let me lick the Ralph Lauren one next!".
In my opinion one of the best quality shirts for price is canali and few Napoli brands
Yeah, Canali is good. Plus, all Canali products are made in Italy. They never went global. Which is great for both the brand and the customers.
How much does brand name matter in terms of this? Does a brand name typically indicate quality? For example, would a YSL dress shirt immediately be of a higher quality?
Awesome videos! Very informative and interesting. Why is the wall behind you moving?
Enjoyed every minute! I will be looking out for some good threads.. though i dont think I'll be the guy licking the buttons! Hahahaha! Cheers!
As I'm watching this I'm wearing t shirt, painters pants and socks, all from Walmart. I'll never own a $1000 suit, yet I find this very interesting.
I liken it to food. I can get busy with some Taco Bell just fine, but I also used to work in Fine Dining and know the obvious and not-so-obvious details that make the difference. I'll never be a guy who spends hundreds each week on high end dining, but when I get invited to a dinner with an executive, for example, I can shine right up and play the part well. I have a rep at my job as the guy who isn't afraid to get his hands dirty but also isn't some low-brow oaf who makes fun of silverware at a nice restaurant. "I guess this extra fork is in case you drop one??"
Same, Im currently wearing a t-shirt, hoodie and blue jeans as i watch this.
how come your background is moving ?!
Didn’t know about ascolite before. Thanks
I got about 10 shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt and their shirts go for about $120 a pop. They are now low end shirts at all.
Cool info. 👍
Thank u for sharing very exclusive knowledge to commoners ,thus. Saving us from scammers
Can you possibly do a video on how to look stylish and gentlemanly in warm climates? Like for instance, Australia. It's tempting to just pop on some shorts and a t-shirt, but need some tips on how to be stylish without sweating to death in suits etc. thanks
Wow, thank you, Raphael! The next time I warnt to lick a button at the store I have to disinfect it, because someone may have lockend that button too! >:(
Raphael I wonder how much do you usally spend on a dresshirt and what would be a good deal for you regarding quality/price?
I have signed up for your newsletter aswell and it's one of the best decision I've made! I really enjoy the content and your articels provide solid information so keep em' coming.
Great information. I'll be sure to both share this with some gentlemen I know as well as incorporate it into my own shopping.
Awesome, thanks!
So what are some shirt brand recommendations to look out for, or buy second hand? I need new dress shirts for work!
Vintage Turnbull and Asser for REALLY NICE shirts, Brook's Brothers higher end lines forday-to-day quality. Cordone 1956 is great for the price aswell, and sometimes has sales for 80 euro a shirt.
Wow... this is very helpful. I just realised that one of my shirts from Boss is not that good after all. A tailor once told me that Boss's quality is not that good compared to Kenzo's...
@Rollo Lawson Make sense!
You got me over here licking my shirts lol
question, i have been noticing around that many people are wearing suits without ties. is that the new trend? what do you think about men wearing suits with no ties and having the top button undone? its a more casual look but they are in a corporate setting. is that the future?
"You may be the weird guy licking buttons at the store" Haha the guy called Raphael
how about the best brands for each price range ??
That shirt on the lefts is trippy on my display.
KaptenFluffen
yep. Small Houndstooth just kills your eyes when you get lost in it.
UrbanDanger ! S
to determine mother of pearl or real pearls you slide them against your front tooth if it's smooth it's plastic if it's chalky it's mother of pearl or real pearls
what is the white shirt at 3:40? Whats the silver thing connecting the collars?