DIY Carbon pannier rack explained in detail
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 05. 2024
- I made a Carbon Pannier Rack for a fraction of the cost of a Tailfin.
Feel free to ask me questions, Comments help spread the love!
Bellow are all the parts you need. I'd be very grateful if you could use the affiliate links, as it really supports the channel.
Here's a link to the Blueprint
bitly.cx/MHW
Some affiliate links:
M6 Stainless Steel Ring Bolt
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnC...
M6 Aluminum Flat Head Blind Rivet Nut
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCt...
Mountain Bike Rear Rack Adapter
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBN...
3K Pure Carbon Fiber Tube 50mm x 11mm OD x 9mm ID
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmq...
Links to other projects you may enjoy
Copper coating a steel bike
• How to acid COPPER COAT steel bike fr...
Titanium bike build
• Custom Titanium Build - Cutting out t...
Eagle AXS extreme weather test
• SRAM Eagle AXS Extreme weather test - Sport
Kudos for not making a 20minute video including how to move the saw back and forth, and opening a glue package with 3 mins dedicated to knife safety. Great rack!
Bike culture on youtube needs more DIY carbon parts! It's certainly not for everyone but I believe doing something yourself is a fantastic way to learn and appreciate the things you have.
What other things would you suggest?
Bravo mate. This is one of the best 'diy/bike hack' things I've seen on youtube in years. Criminally underrated channel.
Sick- great work. The mind boggles with possibilities! Would love to see you have a crack at a carbon porteur rack.
It's very tempting.
Just remember that these carbon tubes are constructed by wrapping crossed plies around a mandrel, which is important. Some carbon fiber tubes are 'pultruded', which are cheaper, and fine for some applications, but those tubes can be crushed easily. Don't skimp on the tubes to save a few extra bucks!
Really nice video and a great diy project! Small note on the drilling of the eyebolts: they are probably not hardened so drilling them out should be no problem with a normal hss drill. But dropping red hot bolts in oil gives them a nice black finish with a tiny amount of rust protection. So there you go
This has just the right amount of detail. Nice.
Oh cool. CZcams send me the guy doing what I wondered if anyone did do. Tho what would be really grand is a frame mounted front bag/rack fairing that's huge and doubles as bag. And aero of course. Aero for the size and space on offer at least, taking into account it's making wind flow over the rider. Basically turning a bicycle into a Suzuki Hayabusa, kinda.
Amazing. I've got the Tailfin setup with panniers but your design looks just as awesome. I guess creating some type of quick release would be tricky…
Loved the original video being straight to the point, supplemented with this.
This is fantastic content, I look forward to seeing more of your videos
Thanks very much! There's a 360 mount add-on that I'm working on as we speak.
Been waiting for a video like this while watching my usual crazy priced Carbon rack. Awesome.
You can skip the hardening part, since the eyelids are stainless steel it won't do anything to the hardness. Would work if you had plain steel with more than 0,2% carbon in the alloy
instead of the m6 eye modification, a 5mm thick 135 mm long allen key wheel skewer might work. it will make it heavier but there's something cool about potentially using an off the shelf bicycle part for this
It's a great idea. You could even get a some M5 nuts and smaller tubes to keep it all stiff.
Watch out Tailfin! 👊
Wow! I had a similar idea using carbon tubes for a rack, but joints are made of larger diameter aluminium bent tubes (the principle is much like old Cadex frames)
But your approach is something!
So neat and simple! Absolutely love the idea! Thanks for sharing it ❤
Short, to the point and with everything we need nonetheless, that's brilliant! Not sure why so little views, this deserves definitely more!
Here is my contribution to the algorithm. Keep up the good work, you just earned a subscriber.
This is great! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing!
Amazing work and thanks for sharing!!!
This is awesome, thanks for making this!
Thank you so much for the explanation! This is awesome!
Excellent explanation - thank you!
Thank you so much. Great instructions and awesome video quality!!
good job, thx for sharing !
Thats so cool!
Great stuff. Cheers from Brazil.
Short and to the point! Love it!.
bro you hyped me so much. thanks for sharing.
this is amazing
I'm in, ordered the parts from your links. Kudos to you for your ingenuity and for sharing. Game changer!
Brilliant 👏
Great project, thank you! I really appreciate your effort and creativity. Subbed.
happy to have discovered you, great work, now you have a new subscriber
Awesome job, great bike hack! Would love to make my own!
This is brilliant
Great work, thanks. Theres a lot here I wouldn't have thought of.
great video, just happened onto your channel the other day. still exceedingly to the point, especially for the "in detail" version haha
Thanks for making this. Really love it... might have to have a go at that at some point. Love the simple concept and how far it could be pushed. 😊
Awesome!!!
Brilliant
Can't wait to try this. Also, just watched your "paper music video" video, very cool work. Would love to see more of whatever you're working on. Cheers.
Please keep us posted.
New here: very nice build !!
Awesome. Subbed.
I had a similar idea recently for the gravel fork that only has mudguard eyelets, but seems to be sturdy enough to hold less half a kilo on each side.
Now this video is a good rerefence for that build :)
Yes! Subbed
Well done mate. I am curious what's coming next.
Training for a 1000k race, so lots of adventure.
Excellent, I'll have a teeshirt too if you want to sell' em.
Genius
Awesome design. The end joint tricky part could maybe improved/simplified more with soldering? or just strong epoxy in that area too, since epoxy is used in the center cross bars.
Присоединяюсь к предыдущим комментариям, спасибо что поделились этой простой и крутой идеей. Я как раз искал нечто похожее для своего Scott addict, надо придумать как крепить стойки, так как у меня нет отверстий для багажника…
I might do this for my brompton ^^.
They make one for Brompton, it's where I got the inspiration for this.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFKzEuj
You can use also plastic dowels inside the tubes
You are welcome to adapt the design as you see fit. I had some wooden dowel lying around.
I love this!! I want to make one. I wonder how long it would last on a gravel bike off road?
I'm doing a 1000k race in a few week, so watch this space
Did you have to bend the eyelets to get angles from the seat clamp and then again at the ajoining brace at the rear? Parts ordered, great weekend project just the right amount of space to take my gym kit. Inspired!
Well spotted, it's the part of the video I missed. Yes, 'like Jeremy Clarkson', with a hammer!
Thanks. I ordered some thicker gauge 9mm OD aluminum tube to add to the internal of the bracing instead of wooden dowels. Once again this is a great project thanks for sharing
Thanks for making this! The affiliate links aren't working for me just fyi
Me neither
+1
All fixed, thanks for the heads up!
So nice diy "tailfin" rack. Am building a rack my self, Think i will glue some wrap fabric "Carbon fibre tape 125 g/m² (unidirectional) 10 mm" around the connection of the smallest tube and waste the dowels . Am thinking these connection you have is a weak spot. But in all so content you have put out with this rack.
I tugged with all my might on a piece of string tied through the eye bolts, no movement. I await to see what 1000k of vibration will do to the epoxy.
@@SladeTakalaLamey Sure eye bolt will go nowhere, it was only the two smallest tubes where you masked the tubes with tape. was ment as an idea if you got issues. Was so happy to see you work, and you got a new subcriper.
Hey there!
I went ahead and built one for myself. It works pretty well with an 8l drybag, however the screws rattle quite a bit in the rivet nuts. How is that on your side? I'm thinking about cutting some aluminum tubing to size and tighten the rods onto those to mitigate it.
I filled the bolts with enough red locktight that they are solid for me. Please can you send me a picture, you are the first to get back with a complete build, so congrats.
@@SladeTakalaLamey Now that the loctite dried, mine is stable too. I will send you some photos soon ;)
Beautiful! What was the maximum load it survived so far? I mean in real ride, not those 40lbs.
I just did a 120k off road full of camera batteries and clothes, but I didn't weigh it sorry. It's still solid as a rock.
Thanks so much!
Could this be adapted to hang panniers?
I don't see why not. I'd maybe add a triangle in the sides.
I would like to recreate this on my Scott addict. It has rear fender mounting holes and threads, but I am scared that they will not hold the weight of the pack. Has anyone have experience or advice on how to to this best?
Even the big heavy duty pannier racks are only screwed into those mounting holes, they are stronger than you think. I would suggest getting some steel or Ti bolts though. You are strong enough to break an aluminium M5 bolt just by screwing it in too light.
I'd love to see an *even longer* form video on this explaining:
-What tools (ex. hacksaw blades?) you used, and why
-How you could potentially improve your pannier rack in a V2
-Some basic safety tips like:
wearing a mask
applying water to your carbon(with a spray bottle or something) before cutting - to getting a cleaner cut, saving your lungs, and prevent itchy carbon dust from irritating your skin
Squirt some thinner on tissue and just wipe the excess epoxy off.
...and make sure you change wiping spots on the tissue otherwise you'll smear the previous thinner-epoxy mixture back on to the surface.
Doesn't that delaminate the carbon? Isn't it held together with the same stuff?
It's one of the inexplicable mysteries in cycling that no one makes carbon racks, except for the very expensive tailfin, and there only for the rear.
Or fenders-mudguards, which would be even easier. Drives me nuts that the stays provided with even the expensive floppy plastic fenders are the same old thick pot-metal stays in use for half a century, that dont like to bend, but oh do they love to flail around... Even cold cured carbon would be better than floppy plastic....
This all started because I saw they make a very similar product for Bromptons, and I realised it would not be a stretch to upscale it for grown ups!
@@SladeTakalaLamey awesome…. have been thinking for years about giving it a go…. your video may have finally motivated me to maybe do something, maybe…. :) it would be a great little business…. I think the tailfin guy started in his own garage….
What bank account do I pay and where do I sent my delivery address 😃?
The whole point is that you can make it yourself now! 😁
What length M6 eye bolts did you use?
I used 80mm (to clear the frame at the bottom) and 25mm everywhere else (but I should have used 30mm).
Don’t fully understand the need for drilling the 6mm holes?
The nuts are M6, and the bolts come with a 5mm hole. So in order to get a bolt through the eyelets before going into the nut at the back corner the eyelets needed to be made a bit bigger.
Hope that helps.
I'm thinking about developing this into a product for next year so you may not have to make one.
The eyelets that fit the rack to the bike are 5mm so they fit the M5 bolts that are used to attach it to the frame.
@@SladeTakalaLamey many thanks, and one last question if thats ok - you have inspired me, but making some modifications. How problematic do you think it will be to use 10mm ID, 12mm OD CF tubes and still use the same m6 screw nuts (I realise their OD is about 9mm), could I get away with just using more glue to pick them in do you think?
(I’d like 12mm OD tubing for various reasons).
@@traderz13 it's a pleasure, I'm really enjoying the engagement.
The only reason I used the 11mm OD was because I thought the M5 eye holes were the most important dimension and I didn't want the rack to rattle on the bike. If I were to change anything it would be buying 10mm carbon cross tubes and M5 nuts in the cross bar. That way I could use M5 bolts to join the hinge together without drilling out the eye bolts.
However if you can find a way to mount it to the bike with M5 bolts in 6mm eyelets without it wobbling, please let me know. I'd love to see what you come up with.
I'm thinking of launching a product, ordering boxes and shipping worldwide. But there's some development work to do first.
@@SladeTakalaLamey
Ill defo send you what i end up with.
i want the 12mm OD/10mm ID tubes because I want to use 12mm T joints (cant find any in 11mm) as i need a diff saddle connection to the top of rack set up owing to bike geometry (I can then also use them for the cross tubes on the top of rack as well). I agree with your preference for the m5 bolting to the bike, So that means i would have to use the same m6 bolt and eylet combo, hence my question on whether you think: with the m6 nut OD of 8.9mm, I can glue it into the 10mm ID of CF tubing by just using more glue?
(I am guessing from your comment on using the 10mm cross tube(ID8mm?) and m5 nuts with an OD of 6.9mm, which would also require packing with 1.1mm glue, that you think packing that much with glue will be ok - im guessing since its 0.55mm all the way round its not too bad - but just wondered your thoughts!)
@@traderz13 I wrote the reply without properly investigating the ID of a 10mm tube. I think a 0.55mm gap is not ideal. But you might be ok. You could buy some carbon shavings to pack the hole. That way it would at least be a composite of glue and fibers.
Silca would charge $500 for the rack and $200 for the bags smh
you amazing mf, this is what real communism looks like
Oh no all that work and you put wood inside it?
amazing work.
Love the lack of "proper" engineering. it will work. or it wont.
It probably will :)