Inside the Gearbox: How to Correct AOE.
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- Today we will take a look at Angle Of Engagement. We will explain what it is, how to do it, troubleshooting, and we will discuss if it is really necessary for a reliable gun.
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I'm just geting started into airsoft and your instruction are so clear, an amateur like me actually understands how gearboxes, shimming, AOE, and MOSFET works. Glad that I came across your video and keep up the good work.
Shimming with some plastic washers between the piston and piston head is the best way to correct AOE, I’ve been doing that for 15 years, unless it’s a full cylinder you don’t lose any volume and it’s far more accurate for every shot as it doesn’t compress like a rubber or sorbo pad.
So what type of plastic washers do you use? And where can one get them from.
@@brianbutters1915 well der, obviously if you correct AOE you need to remove 1 or 2 teeth, no matter how you do it, I never said otherwise.
@@mitchfromtheinternet297 lol u got me man, that's a fair statement
@@brianbutters1915 yeah he was referring to the faucet washer idea lol, what a waste of time typing all that 😂😵
Super glueing that washer sounds sketchy idea tho. I think you can get adjustable piston heads can’t you?
If you put the washer in front of the piston, you have a lot more dead air on full compression, therefore a drop in fps. Put the spacer behind the piston and you have full compression but shorter stroke, again a drop in fps!
You have a very valid point about AOE. plastic or rubber would help with AOE alignments.
Great vid, well explained. I have used white nylon washer on Katana piston between piston and head with great results
Wow I just learned a ton from you. Very well explained, thankyou!
Now we have, even if minute lessened volume. All you did was move the piston, in relationship to the sector gear, to a spot that the gear will wind up it in a cycle naturally. The piston you showed was not damaged by "bad AOE" as you put it, it was from pre-engagement from a lot of FA.
Btw it isn’t necessarily premature engagement because of the AOE is off and the piston is still forward your gears can still touch it and scrape it. By taking the teeth out of piston can help that aswell.
Best shimming tutorial!
Installed some SHS 13:1 gears as best I could into a G&G gearbox
piers brown can you make a video of your build
I’m looking to do a gate titan
Asg 40k
Shs 13:1 gears
And a m120 spring in my g&g cm16
@@kamplayz3784 I have documented my work on my Instagram page (@callsign_astronaut).
The motor is a "high torque" style so it should have no problems pulling the M120 spring even with low ratio gears.
I plan eventially to get a Perun mosfet for it.
I just bought an SHS full steel teeth piston with the head and AOE correction already added from Umbrella Armory. I used to do this especially when I took apart my old CM16 SRL to do some upgrades. It worked really well but didn't always stay despite it being glued in.
Hi! Thank you for this explanation. I am new and pretty much green on this. As if its not enough, I am starting to build an M-4 from 2nd hand parts. All with 0 experience. Crazy,hu?? You bet!!!
Great videos. Just subscribed. I usually correct the AOE by using some fiber washers from Lowe's between the piston and piston head to avoid changing cylinder volume. I've tried sorbo, but I never noticed any difference in noise or vibration. The only thing with adding washers between the piston head and piston is the spacing sometimes causes your piston head's bearings to not spin freely in the piston.
I believe those faucet washers are made of Delrin, not any kind of rubber. That being said, it's a great material for this application. It has just enough shock absorbent properties to take some of the load, yet it is self lubricating so it stays nice and smooth and won't gum up inside of your cylinder. I work with multiple types of Delrin at my job, regular polymer based and glass reinforced. I've made some shock absorbing pads for people a couple times, both straight and some with a conical shape for bore up applications. I still prefer the Sorbothane pads though. Those always work great.
@theairsoftech have you thought about cutting away the interior of the pad/spacer away to an O ring type shape to decrease spacer volume and increase FPS? I imagine it would still do its job even with less material.
You LEGEND!!! Thanks for video and adding to my knowledge
Just throwing in a thought here, if, as the nay sayers do, removing that cog is such a bad thing, why do so many quality replacement pistons come with the 15th tooth already missing? Wouldn't that means that the airsoft part manufacturers are clueless and ship shitty and defective products? Or... maybe there's something to it?
That cushioning effect will be because the "bounce-back" from the squishy rubber effect creates a vacumn effect which counteracts the compressive effect of the piston, imo.
Not true
I don't really know much about improving them but would it not be easier to leave it as is and just replace it once it wears down like the gears?
great video man, what diameter are the faucet washers?
Man, what a class! Thanks.
Seems like back-spacing the piston by adding material to the piston head is the way to go unless somehow it's more difficult to do than adding material to the cylinder head or you're going for a strict CQB, high ROF build that definitely doesnt need the volume or extra weight to the piston.
have a question - is there any benefit to having the sorbo or washer between the piston head and piston rather than on the cylinder head? I have both setups in different guns and I can't really tell if one technique is better than the other.
If there is a funnel cylinder head installed, what is the best alternative? Placing the spacer as shown will make the funnel obsolete...
What kind of Dremel do you guys use? Would the 100 series be adequate enough?
Could i actually use these instead of ordering sorbo pads? have a game coming soon and have no time to order them. You said they are great for adjusting, im wondering if you can use them for a long time.
is there any difference between airsoft and gelsoft other than what they fire? could I theoretically shoot bbs out a gelsoft gun?
does it matter if the hop "window" on the barrel is not as long as the window in the hop unit?
THE reason you were getting such low numbers is the rubber was porous and leaking right thru the gasket material.
Do AOE even on a basic gun. A friend's brand new G&P M4 failed on the first day of use. After taking it apart I found that a whole little chunk at the back of the piston had broken off and fallen in among the gears. No harm done, but it was almost certantly a poor AOE that did it. I am fixing up the new piston with these mods to ensure longevity.
I got a question. At the start i want to say that i had luck and after changing sector gears and piston ( cause luck with choosing the right parts ) my AoE was nearly ideal and so i didnt need to use any spacer to change the barrel lenght so i dont know mouch about it. :) But i will need to do that on friends gun. So my question is why isnt the spacer used to manage the right AoE same size as piston head? If the air is pushed forward by piston head and you have the piston head with different size than the spacer, dont you lose some air pressure going around the center and after that ending locked up by piston head hitting the spacer? I think the preasure is already downed by less space for air in the piston barrel so i wonder why is the spacer smaller than the barrel/head. I was thinking about it and i think that better wil be barrel sized spacing with hole in it shrinking right from its sides ( size of the barrel ) to size of inner barrel ( like the funnel ) and so the air will have more consistant direction also concentreating the higher air preasure in the centre of the barel. Let me know if you ewer used the piston head sized spacers and what you think about my idea. Thanks.
do you have to correct are with steel teeth piston
wont adding spacers infront of the piston make the fps less? how to go about that?
My theory, some builds and Pistons need a softer or harder rubber to space the piston and correct aoe
have u work on a kwa ronin t6 try to upgrade the inetrnals .
very helpful excellent help
what is the size for the faucet washer?
The Airsoft tech Jello I'm new to airsoft I own an HK M4 I'm looking to up my FPS and get more distance what should I do first and where can I find upgrade parts to start
Matthew Stowe find out if your gun shoots at 400 FPS, if not increase the FPS then you want to change the hopup unit and bucking to a high quality unit and a soft bucking (google) then finally change the stock inner barrel to a tight bore... Prometheus is an excellent brand
Most UK guns don't come with ported cylinders. There should be ample volume after correcting AOE
Thank you!!!
after you drill out the hole in the faucet washer, would it help airflow to take a larger drill and bevel the opening to "funnel" the air through the hole?
+TradinPlastic5150 Yes it does.
With just a straight hole, you create a small pillow of air on top of the washer along with some compression. This forces the spring to slow down.
We are talking about splits of a second here that the spring takes longer to reach the washer, but in some gearboxes (especially when using a dual sector gear) that loss can be enough to make the gears crash instead of letting the sector gear pick up the piston from it's endposition.
+Roland P. So yes, using a countersinker on the washer does help a lot, because it moves the "biggest spot of compression" and the air pillow techically inside the sinked opening.
But to put you on the safe side, you will also want to cut a channel in to the washer as shown on the stock padding at 9:20 in the video.
Have u ever opened up an ARES AM-013? It has perfect AoE and the piston comes with the end teeth already shaven and theyre full metal teeth.
Wait what seriously? What other , guns use that gearbox?
Should I still do this if the teeth are all metal on my piston?
How big of a deal is AOE? Because I'm a new tech and I just put in a sorbo should I be find now ?
It's not a big deal... As a real firearm, air gun, and air soft gun parts designer/builder. AOE is nothing more than the attempt to get gains from a very limited system. Any gains seen are negligible. Especially true when a stock system is completely altered with upgrades. The gains become entirely non existent of this.
I just bought a Secondhand replica, now the piston gets jammed every time. Now I tried fixing it myself but I was wondering is it normal that th O-ring around the piston is slightly lose ? seems quite bigger then it should be is that normal ?
+fu2iosa It should be a little loose. It expands to create the pressure in the cylinder
Is that with a mosfet brake?
Wouldnt your AOE change under firing conditions with a compressable washer? That precision setup would now be all over the place when the piston compresses the washer and then rebounds and you end up with a poor AOE anyway.
How big do you drill the hole
what happens when you run a metal ladder?
Love your videos, they have been s great resource for me for years. I actually referred back to this video wondering 2 things
1. When using facet washers without sorbo (the stock sorbo was smashed and had fallen out so I glued the washer straight to the cylinder head), due to the hardness and lack of shock absorption of the washers should I be concerned about stressing the front of the GB shell? This is in a SAW gearbox btw, so high cycle abuse.
2. I use 2 washers glued together and slightly sanded down. What do think about gluing one washer to the cylinder head and adding the other to the piston? Im thinking this may take advantage of adding mass to the piston and mitigating the possible fps drop from shock absorption of the sorbo on the cylinder head?
Thanks!
So like i have bought a package of washers for this purpose, from home depot. They are rubbery and do get compressed a little bit. I am lead to believe that this is the cause of the fps loss on my aeg, about 80fps loss. I plan on swapping this washer for a washer that does not compress. Anybody know where i could get a washer that does not compress?
+Ryan bum on this, im in the same situation
80fps loss does more sound like a serious air leak, than an aoe / washer problem.
that guy, you know, that guy,, he is correct
intro reminds me of how its made ;p
I oddly love that show tho haha. Some are better than others
points i understand these tec saying such things , but as an engineer sector teeth crowns , the strongest point of a cog as cog is at its thickest and has an advirse angle same as the pick up on a piston these meeting with the crown of the cog first is by far the strongest secondly teeth shape allow for smooth transition in movement . where ever you pick up a cog wether at the start of a correct stroke or part way through you will experience the same wear also placing sorbo or faucet washer in line will create piston bounce and cause irregular tooth pick up , and can cause barrel vacuuming ie where volume of cylinder is equal or the barrel and when the piston bounces slighty drags the air back momenteroly in the barrel normally on weaker spring set ups , note piston are cheap compared to gear there is a reason it called slave part replace when knackered .... a better way is to space cylinder correctly using piston spacers and that is not when cog sides are face to face but when crown is picking up piston tooth whilst simatainiouly picking up your shaved second tooth or the end of your third thus spreading the load between two teeth . another way is to reinforce your second sector tooth on ya gear set with say jb weld increasing the strength of your sector gear i have done this for years now with out correcting aoe and experience no failure , running m150 springs in dsg and dmr with time you will always experience failure so take it on the chin and make it the cheapest part to replace also if you look at teeth with so called aoe correction you actually get teeth slam and in high stress builds this results in first gear on the sector to break off tec plz stop trying to sell simple mechanics for over price lack of knowledge . old saying a little peice of knowledge is a dangerous thing think about it , guys watching these vids know that air seal barrel stabilization and air constistancy is way more impartant than sector impact angle as is barrel volume to cylinder volume anything you put in your gun that can cause inconsistant results will effect your range and accuracy
Your sentence length rivals that of Alexander Hamilton. On the other hand, your grammar does not.
i just bought a aluminium piston with full steel teeth and the second teeth is gone by default.
wouldn't it be possible to just file off a tiny bit of the pick up tooth so it would have a correct aoe when contacting? That way you wouldn't have to do the whole mod.
MrTheMrLol it will weaken your pick up tooth which is the most important of all
Hey Ryan, can you look at my retro arms straight trigger problem video? The trigger slips right off the trolly in about the half pull margin. Did i just get a lemon?
Since your trigger does that, you probably removed too much material from the trolley catch.
I tried the same setup with many other trolly's un touched, and it still slipped.
^^ fixed it! Thank you for the help :) i found out that the lonex trolly is jank.
bbsp
If you have full metal gears on your piston, is AOE still as important?
JKresz yes, maybe even more so because you stand a larger chance of actually damaging teeth on the sector gear. I had this happen to me and I had to have my piston and gear set replaced (it took ages though, because my AOE was "good enough" I'm lazy.)
just asking why not metal washer insted rubber to make sound loud metal to metal..? i am biginers to AEG.. thank you for sharing you video...
You'd fuck up your piston head
+Reggie Flores In addition to what kyle said:
You need some shock absorbing material, because you've got a spring propelling the piston. If you'd let the pistonhead (which is made from aluminium or plastic) slam against a hard surface, it's like keep hitting it with a hammer.
So to avoid having the "force of the spring" travel through all the parts, and mostlikely damage them, you want to give it a "cotton touch".
Yet, if you pick a way to soft material, the piston head will rip it apart.
I have never had a good piston break on me only cheap polycarbonate dboy or jg
Can u make a video on blueprints of each and every parts of the gear box
So, what size faucet washer?
For m4 go with m6 (6mm inner diameter) 20mm outer diameter. 2mm thickness tends to work best.
So do you prefer the faucet washers over the sorbo pads?
Yes, they have no reset time whereas sorbo pads do. In addition, they're easier to correct aoe with.
TheAirsoftTech what do you mean by reset time?
luckyflukerschannel can you tell me how to calculate the air voluming please? cheers
luckyflukerschannel Volume du cylindre V = π x r² x h
Nice video! Nice to see other tech's opinions on mods. Keep the good work up and I'm looking forward to more of your vids. P.s. I'm thespartantech/white_hawk_tech on instagram
Would you link me to the place you buy faucet washers?
Home depot or Lowe's etc
do you loose fps?
thank god im not the only one who has the problem with sorbo and washers. but then it mysteriously fixes itself
Your theme song is do retro lol
Hello TheAirsoftech, I just want to ask, what is the cause if the first tooth on the piston chips?
Im not an expert by any means, most likely pme if you have high rof or a weak spring if you ment 15 tooth, 1 tooth propably the piston is plastic and can't handle a strong spring, just buy a blue swiss cheesed shs piston costs 7$ and is literally unbreakable
@@bartekburmistrz8679 Thanks for noticing my query. as to my Piston Body, it is from Tactical Unlimited. as they claimed "Full Titanium Teeth". and a sp130 Guarder spring. My FPS is at 495 (settled Spring) and consistent. 16:1 SHS Gears and 60k True Rated Motor (rewind). Just wondering why its chipping on the last tooth near the piston head.
@@Moto_GeeTee as I said im not the expert but you are using a high speed motor (would never use these they get hot are ineffective take a lot of time to get to max speed just use high torque ones 16 tpa and up and control the speed with gear ratios) titanium itself is not resistant to chipping (depends on the alloy used) if your piston weights a lot and you are using a high speed motor it's possible that it's some horrible pme (doubt it) most likely the piston is just shit best piston is shs 15 steel tooth just suoer glue the rack is there anything else you think could be responsible? Also assuming you are running a 11.1v battery and your motor is 60k rpm is 10 tpa your gun shoudl have over 50 rps i hardy doubt it does
@@bartekburmistrz8679 no problem regarding if your not an expert or not. It's just good to have a conversation with someone who has an idea regarding this matter. The exchange of info is great. Piston weight, I have not weighed it in but I'm sure it is lighter. I have changed it to a "Slong" brand. dunno if you have the brand in your country. though it came from Hong Kong. haven't tried SHS though, but my gears are SHS. they work perfectly with proper shimming. I just don't know if the responsible of the chipping is my AOE. I have set my AOE as of now properly. inserting a 4.5mm nylon spacer between piston body and piston head not using a sorbo pad on cylinder head instead.
and yes, I am running an 11.1v 2.0 mah turnigy. my rps count is at 66.
@@Moto_GeeTee wow 66 rps with 500 fps that's a lot I wouldn't recomend slong for important parts that are prone to breaking it's a cheap chinese brand if you are looking for good pistons try lookiing up lonex (havent used them myself) you could try to use pencil lead to determin what angle it's rubbing againts the last piston it will scrub of if it's something that shouldn't happen also remeber that the last tooth as well as the first take the most damage due to the highest forces anything only steel should be used(personal opinion)
What's the best piston to use
Team infamous SHS
Lonex red for polycarbonate for high speed setups or angel customs aluminum pistons which can be used for high speed and high torque applications
Couldn't you remove the first contact tooth of the sector gear instead of filing down teeth on the piston?
I could see doing this if it was metal on metal but the plastic will eventually wear into position...which is the whole point.
If the pickup tooth is plastic you risk ripping it right off in a high stress setup, I have seen this happen several times. If the pickup tooth wore down enough to compensate for the incorrect AOE, it would mess up the meshing with the following teeth and strip the entire piston teeth rack.
they do say you eventually wear the gun in like a brand new bike in some sense
@@MRwillhams I reckon that's more learning the subtleties of that exact gun. So where the BBs land in relation to your sights, the angles you need for what distances, moreso than your gearbox biting into itself
Doesn't adding the spacer shorten the compression stroke, in turn lowering the volume of air being compressed and the FPS of the BB ?
It has negligible effect in most cases, and you can compensate by changing the cylinder porting or barrel length.
Great video and explanation. Very informative and easy to understand.
I will actually try using a sanded down door stopper to see if I can get that to work. It has more of a cone shape, which would slow the piston down more gradually.
You can also use silicone to make a cone. Search "Hammar Silicone Dampening mod"
What's the purpose if this? What affect does it have on performance? What affect does it have on reliability?
Dan Fitz Maybe rewatch the video. He states the reasons for getting correct AOE many times, but basically it lines up the teeth so you have better contact on the piston and less wear and a smoother running gearbox.
Doing this with my LCT literally fixed an issue where the AOE on the stock gun was SO bad that it stripped the sintered metal piston rack tooth, and started pushing it out of position instead of stripping.
Anyone who says doing this is bad doesn't know jack didly shit.
Seems like all metal pick up teeth would provide the best reliability...
what maybe kills the tooth is heat and or dirt stuck in the loobe since not having the proper angle will cause more slide friction heat/abrassion as opposed to angleling it and having less sliding action to pass the first gear even grease or oil makes heat if you rub your hands together with them you will still feel friction even more . dry lobe for keys and lock ect will not hold dirt it is pritty frictionless since it wont create a bond between your hands . I see this trick will also solve or give more jam preventing slack that low fps and high rate of fire will cause because it wont catch on the missing tooth as the gear comes back around .thanks for the tip
I don't know about airsoft but in gelsoft we literally never have this issue, and also you've just made this piston less reliable, you're putting all the spring pressure onto one single tooth that you cut down, honestly if this is a common issue you're better off getting a piston with a steel rack,
Me trying to correct AOE in a DSG with a split gearbox and a M170 spring installed.......
That should not be a problem?
Guys need help why did they remove that 1 gear? I didn't know whats the purpose need help
Lt_Cycloper Strike199 7:50 because the gear will hit it before it hits the pickup tooth
Area of Effec
@11:33 it’s stuck 😂😂😂
When you have to cut something to "make it better" it's probably just a shitty job.
Do the shimming, buy the piston with metal teeths and get an upgraded dual ring piston head...don't use super glue... the piston hits the cilinder head with velocity...so you'll just end up with hardened superglue inside the gearbox.
I would have thought your problem was the fact that you're using a plastic piston with metal gears...
ttacx a metal piston with destroyed a gear box shell
@@snepcheck2198 sorry I meant metal teeth on a plastic piston
Im Spanish and i dont understand why you cut the first 2 Toth
Mira, hombre!! Y yo sou portuguez y hay dias que despues de venir aqui entiendo menos...!! Bffffff!!!
Porque chocan los engranajes al corregir el aoe.
Heyyy its really simple if you have a workshop or a dremel that is over 100€
Or if you have a file set that costs 20 dollars.
A very experienced Tech told me AOE adjustment is a bad idea. Causes Piston misalignment issues. Your Piston head must contact a perfectly flat surface or it becomes misaligned and is amplified down the lengtht of the piston to that oh so important first tooth. It also Looses volume in cylinder forcing you to higher spring pressures to make up for lost FPS. The original alignment changes as well because the washer compresses every shot so you actually have a greater chance of grabbing half the tooth. You cannot calculate how much a rubber washer is going to shrink, compress when you actually fire. If you move the piston back, your motor needs even more amps to get it moving
and puts more stress on the motor and battery. He also said he sees way more damaged pistons from AOE mods. Just a warning to all you DIY guys out there. A wise man said ," A little bit of knowledge can be dangerous." . Best advice, talk to a full time tech who has been in the buisness a long time".
I’ve been doing this for 9 years and not correcting AOE on a high speed/high stress build will cause your piston to fail. It’s only a matter of time.
@@TheAirsoftTech I've watched tonnes of your vids and have appreciated it. I just think the average airsofter should consider carefully before doing this mod. If your going through pistons then ok, but if your piston is in great shape, I think it best to leave it. You yourself mentioned many issues encountered doing this mode. The learning curve is pretty steep with lots of things that can go wrong. Just saying many guys mess up there pistons attempting this mod and there are techs with more years than you in the buisness that don't recommend it for that reason. I see a lot of new guys in the comment section
that seem to want to jump right in there. I wouldn't take a brand new gun and just do this mod personally. I'm more interested in a lower maintenance AEG's with lower rates of fire and longer durability. That's why we have comment sections to read and consider for ourselves all the variables. Any High speed/stress build requires higher cost and maintenance and young air softers need to consider cost verses benefits carefully. If your not building high speed/high stress, spend your time on other mods. I've been a maintenance electrician for 30 years. Pushing any equipment beyond its original design is expensive, time consuming with many unforeseen results. Saying it's easy just means you understand it, you now many of the mistakes and have tonnes of experience. Maintaining head alignment, cylinder volume and AOE under spring pressure are variables that need to be controlled and considered in this mod.
Un po lungo ma si capisce molto bene il meccanismo
:) just buy steel 14 with removed 2nd tooth
This solution is for people who use singlefire most of the time. That’s what eats the big teeth, singlefire. Always use full auto even when in buildings, but make sure to shoot slower than full auto, also use a 7.4v battery for a slower rate of fire, then it’ll use less power and makes your gears work alot more smooth.
n video before and after for FPS test kid?
Droping to100 from just adding big ssurb ffrom, 400fps is becouse sorb wills sow down presure of air like spring working oposite.
What if u got metal teeth
Make sure the metal teeth are adhered to the Piston itself, and don't worry too much about the 15th tooth unless it's already out, metal teeth last much longer than the poly teeth and piston teeth do.
what is aoe. ?
Did you watch the video? He explained angle of engagement pretty well.
He showed and told us to do one thing and then later on contradicted and said not to do everything he showed us before...wtf?!?!
What?
I dont get why a heavier piston would transfer more impact energy to the cylinder head.. that's the same as saying that a heavy .40g BB will have more impact energy than a light .20g one.. I's all about knetic energy, a heavier one will move slower , and the light will move faster, so the energy is the same
As for the BB example, the energy would be the same if there was no air resistance. As the light BB is traveling much faster, it also loses energy sooner, as the surface area of both BBs is the same. So the impact energy remains higher in heavier BBs.
The same happens with pistons, actually.
great video, but... it can be better to put some washers back of the piston head... no glues...better fix.. same result!
Hey bro I was wondering if u wanted to trade airsoft guns
Playing airsoft for 15 years. Doing my guns for 15 years. Best friend was a tech at an airsoft/paintball/military shop. And non of us did something this useless. Why bother with a polycarbonate piston and AOE? Destroy the original, buy one with full metal teeth and the other parts (cylinder, cyl. head, Al piston head, nozzle, maybe gears, motor if you go over 130-140 m/s). Assemble the gears correctly put it all together and voila. Didn't change a piston in 10 years on my guns.
then your just stupid, with a metal tooth piston sector gears will take damage if the AOE is not the best possible
Learn to read stupid. "Assemble the gears correctly put it all together and voila." And no I never had any broken or damaged gears. My G&P M4A1 has it's original gears and piston for 10 years and the only thing that gave out was the wiring. That with a SP140 spring. The only gun that has had problems with AOE and needs a 18 teeth piston is a G&G L85 gen.I or it's Army armament R85A1 clone with a SR25 19 teeth piston. Done too many guns in my life to argue with stupid. Or stop buying cheep Chinese guns with wobbly tolerances of a Chinese AK 47/Type 56.
@@858Markus you've clearly never built a high stress gun. Don't correct this with a DSG and you'll be blowing your pistons every 1k shots. And this is coming from the guy who's made a 500fps 45rps build. The same gun on my channel except with an M150. I've also built guns firing 70rps before. I've blown up gearboxes before and tore through countless pistons. Without a sorbo pad and a high power spring (M150 and above) you'll be blowing the front off of many cheap gearbox shells. You're clearly not a good tech.
nylon washer from lows? dremell grooves to key in stock rubber to achive more quensh or less space in the cylinder .like a gas engine more cc's in the head { piston to head clearance or space}= less compression less cc's =more compression harder piston push- high performance 91+ octane mandatory or piston kaboom .u can also re groove the nylon where the piston meets to achive a better air rush you might need two washers though since they are around the thickness of the fosset washer.some small flat head engines also have grooves to either let air in or quench exhast out in such limited space .another factor witch may have lowered your fps is turbulence instead of one hole with grooves the extra washer made 4 holes pointing at each and then you got the fosset washer hole . less sharp corners in your main hole the better ,like a 3 angle valve job on a cylinder head =more flow with the same hole. u can tottaly do away with the angles of your hole like a funnel.
Age of Empires
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