This was an awesome video! Application & tools needed! I'd just purchased a set of BILSTEIN struts & they didn't come completely assembled. So I figured I'd replace those mounts also. Thanks!!👍
Thanks. FYI, on the direction of the arrow, this is from a repair manual - direct quote: "The arrow or notch on the upper mount must be aligned with the lower mount (pointing out)". So, if you are like me and changed the struts first and didn't notice the arrow, that is how they are "supposed" to be aligned. Thanks for the vid. The manual also lists some different torques - Pre-2016 and 16+. Upper mounting nuts - pre '16 = 41 ft lbs, 16+ = 46 ft lbs. All the rest are the same and exactly as you mentioned. Thanks.
Since this only took a little over 20 minutes whatchyadoin next Saturday Tony? LOL Excellent video and clarity with the video & audio. OK The sound affects (THUNG THUNG sound) were really spot on! BTW What do you charge to replace a water pump & timing chain? 10:1 you would really LOVE doing that! You did really great with explaining things in layman's terms and also I have never seen a pass through wrench like that. I learn new things every day. Keep up the good work Buddy!
Haven’t done a water pump yet, but doesn’t look too bad, just time consuming. Mines at 110k right now, but I have seen models go above 200k without needing one replaced. Hoping to be in that same category.
Great video but I’m having a hard time finding a 21mm or 7/8 pass thru socket. Was hoping I could buy a cheap harbor freight set but theirs doesn’t go that large. Where did you get yours? Any other recommendations for removing that top nut off of the strut assembly before I tear this thing apart this weekend?
Mine is an old craftsman set from the Sears days. Gearwrench also makes a set. You might find a “strut nut socket” at the local auto parts store. Looks like a deep socket but has the side cut out.
Hello Anthony, Do you think I could use these same instructions to replace the front struts on a 2015 Ford Flex? It's a 3.5l V6 but with no eco-boost motor
Great video. Gonna be doing this on my wife's 2016 Explorer soon and this is exactly what I needed. Would bad strut mounts also cause any clunking when hitting bumps?
@@TheVintageEngineer Thanks. I already replaced the sway bar links and sway bar bushings. I'm sure the control arms will be next. It's just when pushing on the front of the vehicle and rocking it side to side there's a click/clunk around the strut mount area, so was hopeful this would fix 2 issues at once
Question - Why didn't you just replace the entire strut assembly? I have seen Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 272620 Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for like $130 on Amazon? Just curious /// Really great video though! Well produced and very easy to follow! Thank you for making it.
Few reasons, build quality of OEM should always be better. Sometimes quick strut replacements have had impacts to ride quality as the struts aren’t built to the exact same specs as OEM. Also really don’t need an alignment with replacing just the mount, whole strut replacement would need one. If you want to replace the whole strut, I’ve got no problem with that. Just my personal preference to do it this way.
@@TheVintageEngineer Funny enough I had the "THUMP" noise you had so I did replace both entire struts and now I have a metalic rattle noise when I go over slow bumps. My sway bar end rods are new so I can't figure out what is rattling
@@KenRupin There is a pass through hole in the engine bay for the center strut bolt, make sure it is tightened down after it's mounted. Mine was rattling too over bumps and it wasn't fully tightened. Once it's mounted to the car it can be fully locked down.
@@TheVintageEngineer i just did my and reuse the old mount but its look like my passanger one its broken bc after i test vehicule sound like clong when i hit a hole or bump .... any idea.
This was an awesome video! Application & tools needed! I'd just purchased a set of BILSTEIN struts & they didn't come completely assembled. So I figured I'd replace those mounts also. Thanks!!👍
Thanks. FYI, on the direction of the arrow, this is from a repair manual - direct quote: "The arrow or notch on the upper mount must be aligned with the lower mount (pointing out)". So, if you are like me and changed the struts first and didn't notice the arrow, that is how they are "supposed" to be aligned. Thanks for the vid. The manual also lists some different torques - Pre-2016 and 16+.
Upper mounting nuts - pre '16 = 41 ft lbs, 16+ = 46 ft lbs. All the rest are the same and exactly as you mentioned. Thanks.
Awesomely done!! My explorer started making that same noise.
Man I've been trying to figure this noise out. You nailed it. Great video!
Need to get a pass through! Thanks for this tip.
Thank you for this! About to do my wife's right front mount today.
Excellent video and great detail. Replacement was easy thanks for the information and video.
Thanks helped me figure out what my nose was and good directions
Great job, awesome video great detail!!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Nice work bro! You learned me sumthin today!👍
Thank you, great advice
Thank you for this video!
excellent video!
Nice job
Ah! That's what that sound is.....thought it was something going on with the steering column
Thank you ...GO PACK GO
Since this only took a little over 20 minutes whatchyadoin next Saturday Tony? LOL
Excellent video and clarity with the video & audio. OK The sound affects (THUNG THUNG sound) were really spot on!
BTW
What do you charge to replace a water pump & timing chain? 10:1 you would really LOVE doing that!
You did really great with explaining things in layman's terms and also I have never seen a pass through wrench like that.
I learn new things every day.
Keep up the good work Buddy!
Haven’t done a water pump yet, but doesn’t look too bad, just time consuming. Mines at 110k right now, but I have seen models go above 200k without needing one replaced. Hoping to be in that same category.
Great video but I’m having a hard time finding a 21mm or 7/8 pass thru socket. Was hoping I could buy a cheap harbor freight set but theirs doesn’t go that large. Where did you get yours? Any other recommendations for removing that top nut off of the strut assembly before I tear this thing apart this weekend?
Mine is an old craftsman set from the Sears days. Gearwrench also makes a set. You might find a “strut nut socket” at the local auto parts store. Looks like a deep socket but has the side cut out.
How you fojng sir! Im attempting this same procedure this weekend. Wondering, Is your pass through a 3/8" or 1/2"?
Hello Anthony,
Do you think I could use these same instructions to replace the front struts on a 2015 Ford Flex? It's a 3.5l V6 but with no eco-boost motor
Very similar it appears, just by looking at another view of entire strut replacement. Torque specs might be different though.
Hello what kind is the spring compressor you used nice tool let me know
One from harbor freight
Great video. Gonna be doing this on my wife's 2016 Explorer soon and this is exactly what I needed. Would bad strut mounts also cause any clunking when hitting bumps?
I don’t think they would but anything is possible. I would check the sway bar links and also look at the lower control arm bushings.
@@TheVintageEngineer Thanks. I already replaced the sway bar links and sway bar bushings. I'm sure the control arms will be next. It's just when pushing on the front of the vehicle and rocking it side to side there's a click/clunk around the strut mount area, so was hopeful this would fix 2 issues at once
@@philipramsden4975 did you replace your moutn i did my i have that ussue on pasanger side eveithing elese look normal
@@jaandel1 No, I actually think it's the control arms
Question - Why didn't you just replace the entire strut assembly? I have seen Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 272620 Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for like $130 on Amazon? Just curious /// Really great video though! Well produced and very easy to follow! Thank you for making it.
Few reasons, build quality of OEM should always be better. Sometimes quick strut replacements have had impacts to ride quality as the struts aren’t built to the exact same specs as OEM. Also really don’t need an alignment with replacing just the mount, whole strut replacement would need one. If you want to replace the whole strut, I’ve got no problem with that. Just my personal preference to do it this way.
@@TheVintageEngineer Funny enough I had the "THUMP" noise you had so I did replace both entire struts and now I have a metalic rattle noise when I go over slow bumps. My sway bar end rods are new so I can't figure out what is rattling
@@KenRupin There is a pass through hole in the engine bay for the center strut bolt, make sure it is tightened down after it's mounted. Mine was rattling too over bumps and it wasn't fully tightened. Once it's mounted to the car it can be fully locked down.
@@TheVintageEngineer i just did my and reuse the old mount but its look like my passanger one its broken bc after i test vehicule sound like clong when i hit a hole or bump .... any idea.
@@jaandel1 did you tighten the nut at the top enough?
Why do this versus replacing the entire strut assembly?
Cheaper and I prefer to keep an OEM strut on there I know that’s working.