🔥IFSC BOULDER Women's Final World Cup Bern 2023
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- čas přidán 4. 08. 2023
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Here is the amazing Women's Final IFSC Boulder World Championships Bern 2023.
Stay to see the amazing end!!
Subscribe if you don't want to miss any competition this year.
00:46 Boulder 1
10:15 Boulder 2
26:40 Boulder 3
40:37 Boulder 4
ZELIA AVEZOU: W1 01:23 || W2 10:57 || W3 27:21 || W4 41:16
AI MORI: W1 02:57 || W2 14:03 || W3 29:27 || W4 43:13
NATALIA GROSSMAN: W1 04:42 || W2 16:20 || W3 31:42 || W4 45:00
ORIANE BERTONE: W1 06:18 || W2 19:43 || W3 33:30 || W4 47:16
BROOKE RABOUTOU: W1 07:22 || W2 21:54 || W3 36:19 || W4 49:90
JANJA GARNBRET: W1 09:04 || W2 25:06 || W3 38:44 || W4 50:40
Climbing shoes worn by athletes:
Jain Kim: La Sportiva Solution Comp Women’s amzn.to/467wONi
Anastasia Sanders: Scarpa Drago amzn.to/3RBwpyy
Jessica Pilz: Scarpa Drago amzn.to/3RBwpyy
Miho Nonaka: 5.10 Hiangle Women's amzn.to/3PSUC1S
Brooke Raboutou: La Sportiva Women’s Solution amzn.to/3rrPRD0
Oriane Bertone: Scarpa Drago LV amzn.to/3rxKrq0
Ai Mori: La Sportiva Futura Men’s amzn.to/3rrPYyq
Janja Garnbret: 5.10 Hiangle Women’s amzn.to/3PSUC1S
Comentators: Matt Groom and Shauna Coxsey
Just in case you would like to buy me a coffee: ko-fi.com/donkeyclimbmedia 😁 - Sport
Commentary by Shauna Coxsey really adds value to these broadcasts. She can analyse the boulders so much better and gives good insight to what the climbers might be thinking.
she should be the main host.
I can clearly see a touch of jealousy through her words everytime Janja is on stage 😂 specially on the first boulder
Perfect combination with an experienced color-caster like Matt Groom, who always is so well in touch with the climbing scene.
Well..... When you add value to nothing you still got pretty much nothing.
@@rogerdk4800 Why are you here, then? :'D the good old griefer syndrome, hating on videos you would have never watched anyways?
Janja stopping in the middle of the paddle on W3 is just insane
Yes.... Janja is amazing but this french girl very good work Oriane
I am more impressed by Oriane. She did this boulder missing two paddles
She does not have any bronze. Definitely a sign of insanity.
Janja is amazing as always but I wonder for how long her massive strength advantage will carry her. She doesn't have quite the technique/finesse of some of the others. But that's no bother for a "paddle" dyno haha. I wonder if the americans were jetlagged or something, it's not a great performance from them compared to their usual.
@@alexgalays910 She literally flashes everything, no matter the style of boulder. She's leagues ahead in term of technique/finesse.
She was able to slow her inertia and do it semi-static because of technique (her signature leg-flick on the wall) not sheer strength.
I am just laughing every time Janja climbs. It is unbelievable how good she is
If the other athletes weren't there for comparison, you might think it was easy.
shes on steroids
@@3732334 Because a woman has more muscle than, you doesnt mean shes on steroids.
Bring Shauna Coxsey back more often, her technical comments are really helping me to understand the routes. Also all the technique tips are just great! Thanks Shauna!
Usually matt is with someone who speak even less technically than he does and this says a lot. I would love to have Shauna every single time. Pay her!
All the skills these people have will die with then, instead of them serving humanity by contributing to research, science, or infrastructure, or fixing climate change, something that stays when generations change, leaving behind a meaningful, permanent legacy and change that benefits others than themselves.
@@ncard00
And you're doing that? You're such a weirdo
Find someone who looks at you the way Janja Garnbret looks at the next hold (25:50).
I thought exactly the same thing when I randomly checked the screen above the boulders at that moment on-site.^^
I get mad some times watching some of these boulders because it feels like they're just not possible for ai or Brooke. They are so good and try so hard but literally it's just impossible because they aren't tall enough
I agree. On the second one I don't even know how ai could have reached the final hold even if she got there.
Maybe there should be height classes? Because I think for most problems, the taller you are, the easier it is, which is kinda unfair to smaller climbers like Ai.
I've not seen Oriane before but i hope to see more from her! Her explosive strength is absolutely insane. Good comp all around, just wish Ai had more chance.
Such smooth, slow, strong and effective moves !
i really like the way she climbs.
Janja is just insane. For all these months I thought she's at least 175 because she makes it all look so easy. Such a good climber 🔥
? Being above 175 is a huge disadvantage in bouldering
@@alib3332 kek
@@abbedurgut3743 Google the average height of pro women climbers sometime
@@alib3332 laughs in Adam Ondra
@@thecompanioncube4211 Adam's height is quite an anomaly among pro male climbers. Also, it doesn't make sense to compare men/women heights in pro climbing.
Loved seeing Brooke flash that last boulder. Amazing climbing!
Janja as happy with Gold as if it were her first... she is on another level here. Outstanding performance.
Damn, Janja is different.
Loved to see Brook flash boulder 4. I hoped she could use her insane strength there.
Janja is the most dominant climber climber in the world, females and males combined, best athlete in the climbing sport.
females, not females and males.
25:27 that whole sequence to the top is just absolute masterclass. The control, balance, focus, precision... Janja at her best...
at this point Janja should compete in both, female and male competitions... I am just out of words
Unlikely that would work out well based on the whole of human history but I would absolutely love to see it.
@@WhiskyMystery I still wonder if she could make final in a male comp though.
@@WhiskyMystery Climbing is a sport where you have a definite advantage being light and flexible. Of course upper body strength advantage to the men. But yeah its really the only sport where I think it would be interesting to see the top females compete against the males. And Janja is such a level above the other women.
@@pclouds I saw Alex Puccio trying the male boulder problems at a US comp once. She was getting pretty close so I would love to see that also. Even if it was just post comp video where both sides swap boulders just to see.
@@MorningMotivationChannel I would like to see it also.
I just love the 6/6 flashes on the first problem and all of them being different.
There needs to be a study into Janja. She’s superhuman! It’s genuinely bazaar how great she is. In both lead and boulder too. Real life wonder woman 💪🔥
Janja is a beast wtf
I love how Oriane hypes up the crowd, i bet she climbs better when cheered on ^^, some people like silence so they can focus
Janjja Garnbret is on another Level!
Ai Mori is soooo good
I like watching sports like these because you can't fix them and you can't fake them.
even in the semi finals, janja was just putting on an exhibition.. the competition was really for the others.
i see ai i watch 🫶🏼 getting so much inspiration from the shorter athletes being 5’1 myself 🤧
all bodies are different & less height means less weight to uphold too
I'm 5'0, I guess you have to get creative when you're short 😅
@@user-ik7vm1kt6qyes, but to make use of that advantage you do need to be able to reach a hold in the first place haha
always root for Ai Mori 🥲🥲
some of boulders is not possible for ai and brooke :( i feel sad bcs both of them are my fav
Insane climbing skills from all athletes!
Diese Frauen sind einfach der Wahnsinn!!!!!! :)
Congrats to Janja and all climbers ! Bravo à Oriane et Zélia, très belles perfs de la part des françaises :) Et à toutes les grimpeuses bien sûr !
Really cool comp amazing boulders and athletes !
Cada competencia es un deliete ver ❤ mujeres tan hermosas y fuertes.
Literally have tears in my eyes for all of them. I hope they’re so, so proud of themselves!
Also more replys or even slowmo and some commentary on that would be great. On Janja's last one I rewinded and watched trice on half speed because that happened in 20s and not much analysis and comment was done on it. Angle was also not great.
Apart from that, keep up the great work. Really enjoying your videos.
Thx for upload, best channel!
This is so impressive. Kinda speechless right now
I absolutely love Natalia Grossman. Always has that beautiful smile, so heartwarming.
gracias!
WOOP WOOP Thanks for the upload
The two contestants who hit wall 3 were both 164cm. There should be height classes. Wall 2 and 3 are simply not feasible for anyone below 159. Really unfair setting imo.
Walls that are "easier" for small people to climb can be overcome by brute strength, walls that are made for tall climbers are impossible for smaller ones.
This is the best comp I've watched to date- the crowd, the participants, all the tops and attempts were incredible. I'm looking forward to the leads!
Zelia crushed that first boulder. Not just the speed but she seemed so ridiculously strong just throwing her weight around like it was nothing.
I was kinda doubting janja after her attempt on W1 and then she proceeded to absolutely violate W2 and W3 and ofc W4.
Absolutely unbelievable performance
Isn't this world championship? i.e., NOT world cup? Thanks for the upload for folks that may not have access to stream.
🗽 So impressive, what Jana shows. Thx to Shauna Coxsey for co-commenting... 👍
.
Magnifique finish de zélia sur le 2eme boudler. C'est beau de voir les ajustements et la maitrise progressive des différents mouvements jusqu'au finish. J'ai applaudi comme un con devant mon pc.
Ai was amazing
In this final, Ai 's strength was really tested, both physical and mental strength. And she showed a professional level of emotion control. She just keep trying and trying, fight as hard as she was on the lead walls. So cool to watch.
39:25 = Janja on boulder 3 was just damn impressive.
thank you so much for uploading this! do you think there is a chance you can also upload the uncut ones maybe? or share them on a google drive folder or something so that others can upload it? we enjoy matt's commentary a lot, and i am sure other people would appreciate it as well!
The strength and stamina of these women is amazing.
Nice collage of that final - as always.
The director though needs to work on his camera game - some sections are really questionable, especially at the dyno on Boulder #3, wth is that angle?
Janja having a 90 percent top ratio is just so insane. Really makes me wish they had an integrated climbing comp.
ORIANE I LOVE U , GREAT CLIMING
🎉🎉🎉❤
💪💪💪❤❤❤
Janja is so damn good
The second block was one for tall girls !
great vid!
Go Brooke!!
bro janja istg she’s not human
watching this makes my hands and feet sweat. Reminds me of watching mountain goats jumping around on steep cliffs.
brooke è stupenda.
Nice
I’ve never seen this sport at this level , excellent ,,especially with the crowd
France trained the athlete most perfect❤🎉
1st boulder, it looks like AI mori has 1 extra cotation. Still a flash! amazing technique
Poor Ai , boulders set for climbers above 160cm.
Zelia is 158. She managed to finish a half of the roots. And got the zones on 2 other boulders
Poor Zelia too.
@@natashalutsenko870There's unquestionably a difficulty profile that increases like a step function at the low end of a size range.
it's not Ai's height holding her back in most of these climbs, it's her explosive strength. Look at Brooke, she's 158 cm but insanely powerful. Ai has a really light build good for static climbing.
Brooke and Zélia are both as well below 160 cm. Zélia topped W2, Brooke W4 and Janja showed how to top W3 without going full dynamic to the top. She is only 19. She just needs more experience in boulders that are not in her comfort zone.
Que locura
Janja is a fucking beast! O.o
nice ♥
Oriane e Janja já era meu chapa, as mais foda do rolê !!!!👍🕸️🖤
Seeing all the athletes flashing the first boulder was ming blowing, I could spend a year just to top that one probably.
I think this is possibly the strongest lineup of these past years. Women bouldering is at a crazy level right now, I'd argue we could unify male and female categories at this point.
Thanks so much donkey climb 😊
13:50 this was SO IMPRESSIVE
Which comp was this?
I would love to see Janja flashing also all the man boulders. Do you know if she ever tries them?
I don't think she would flash many of them; at the end of the day she's still short and the setters build problems for the average height (about 1.73m ?)
@@alexgalays910not really. If she competed, they would have to take into account her height too. She was climbing together with her ex boyfriend Domen Škofic and there was nothing she couldn’t climb that he could. And he is an excellent climber too.
nah dude she would kill them. look at nina williams@@alexgalays910
Janja is another race on another planet.
of all sports I've seen this gotta be the most unfair for short people. They need to come up with a way you make it so the distance ratios are equal for everyone. for example add another grabbing point lower for the shorter climber and that only that climber is allowed to touch.
what about basketball?? lol
@@mcm4point2o Not really, You can still throw the ball high even if you're short.
climbing has way more tradeoffs than basketball. it isn't that height biased aside from specific boulders. Brooke is the strongest boulderer here in her style for example. @@dontfearthereaper2887
Not saying it's good to be shorter than average, but the situations where it's better to be short do exists, but is less obvious to spot.
Ah yes, that's why they all so tall. xDD
I always knew height was an advantage in climbing but it never seemed that big of a difference in competitive climbing. But this competition... my god, Mori is completely screwed with her height. It's an absolute achievement for her to get even one bronze (and I say that without sarcasm). She's punching well above her weight. It's like those other female climbers competed against men - just completely unfair.
What is unfair is her starving herself and setting poor example for future climbers. We can’t have muscles and strength out of air. Food is a must! She shouldn’t be allowed to compete at all together with Laura Regora.
Thanks for this upoad! But this time, a bit too much cutted.
omg 53:33 🥺
the way she just naturally wanted to pull them up to 1st place with her feels so humbling and wholesome
Janja is very VERY good, but I think Oriane deserves a lot of credit too because she was AMAZING. All girls were, but she definitely kept going.
Oriane is going to be the next Janja, mark my words
While I agree, that Oriane is insanely good that comparison does not do Janja justice. Janja was winning La Sportiva Legends Only right out the gates when she was 19 or so and not known to the climbing world. Against Anna Stöhr, Jule Wurm etc that were all World Champions at that time.
While Oriane is more easing in to the top of the international climbing field, Janja was just there in a flash, stays and dominates. She's just a legend in the sports world.
@@badsn Yeah agreed. Janja is just built different. She has massive strength. Love seeing Oriane climb and break betas but she's more in Brook's league.
13:45 the most exciting moment of the event
Bouldering is a fun sport to watch, even for someone like me that no interest in climbing myself.
tenk yu
I always feel for Ai ... yet again slightly to short for one problem, another one not her style ... but her solutions are usually so enjoyable to watch
Yoes master
Janja climb so fast that even slowing down the video she still take 1 frame
darn I felt bad for AI on this one. Her height was definitely a disadvantage here
It is an advantage for the lead (small --> light) and nobody's feeling bad for others to be taller. Beside that, the move was totally possible even for her size. Zelia is only 4cm taller and she did fine. Ai chose to trade explosive power for infinite stamina ; respectable choice but no need to pity her !
@@torwald5877 No, Zelia isn't "only" 4 cm taller, those 4 cm makes a huge difference here! Those 4 cm are the difference between reaching holds or not reaching. And if you can't reach a hold you have to find a whole different way - if there even is one! That's a whole different competition.
@@torwald58774 cm is a huge difference
@@nps1024 Considering some holds are only 4cm deep, i'd say 4cm matters a lot!
that zone on W2 looked physically out of reach for Ai Mori. The commentator saying that Brooke Raboutou was fully extended.
🙂😊👍❤️
GROSSMANNNNN
janja's beast
Newbie here, are the competitors secluded away and not allowed to view their competitors route?
thanks!
W2 was the most unfair boulder I've ever seen in comp :,( ai and brooke never stood a chance
Zelia is the same height as Brooke and slightly taller than Ai and she did just fine. Don't blame the routesetters, blame the lack of commitment and legs' power...
@@torwald5877 she didn't even touch the finish hold lmao what u on about
@@torwald5877 height is just one point, and your arms and legs also short, you have less option to do the climb.
@@torwald5877Arms and legs' lenghts
How is it okay to set the routes so that they give advantage to the relatively taller competitors?
They Did Ai dirty with that second boulder. That woman is reaching completely flexed out and barely touches that zone nub.
New to this so I’m curious, do the people setting only set to one style?
The announcer said “some climbs are harder for short climbers and some are harder for tall climbers” but it didn’t really seem that way. All the climbs seemed to be dependent on height and reach. “Ai” didn’t seem to belong here and seemed like a bad climber (I’m sure that’s not the case) and Janja (seemed to be really tall) made it all look simple.
How do they decide how to set them (short vs tall)?
The route setter are different in every IFSC World Cup. What Matt meant is that in some climbs if the start is very low and close together the 4 starting holds it will be difficult for a tall climber.
Normally the setters do the boulder not having tall or small climbers in their mind as a crucial setting factor, but how complicated and in control the moves are. They’re trying to hide the intended sequence and to create unique body movements that not only requires finger strength but also flexibility and balance. Generally speaking a taller climber will benefit from this and make the moves statically, while a short climber will need to be more dynamic, and for this level of precision you need to be static.
Janja is 1.64m ...
I can’t recall seeing a boulder set in the womens bouldering finals that was hard for the taller climbers. You see it with the men’s more often but I think it’s rare with the women, which makes the short height disadvantage more evident
Worst height bias in route setting I've seen. Great climbing nonetheless.
Ive said it before, and i will say it again. Janja needs to be able to compete with the men. This just isnt fair anymore XD
it feels like height has a big advantage here
The Japanese team needs to get Ai some quad and glute training. She's one of my fave climbers and seeing her not make any of the jumps was so sad 😞
She’s undernourished. Till she improves her eating habits, she won’t progress.
@@danakaleb4882heighhtt
26:22, that is precisely why Janja is the undisputed world champion.