Stuck Intake Valve - Generator Engine Repair / No Compression - Fixed
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2019
- I managed to pickup this Generac GP7500e generator for free. The previous owner said it was running fine and then just stopped. He cleaned the carb, bought a new battery, replaced the spark plug and brought it to a shop for repair. Based on the estimated cost he just purchase a new one and was basically throwing this out. Can it be fixed?
Generator Model# 0059432
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I know its been 3 years sense you made this video I just want to say thank you for taking the time in making this video. I have a generator that's no spark no compression been studying up what might be required to get it up and running. I can tell your very patience I hope your still doing and sharing your repair work.
Hi James. Thank you very much for the information you gave me. I found the model number, look it up and ordered the exact same gasket. Thank you again, for all that you are doing.
Glad I could help
Years ago I gave away a generator thought it was no good if only I could’ve seen these videos years ago.Thanks so much for posting such great clear and concise videos.
Thanks
You’re quite there surgeon! I’ve never watched an entire surgery on a generator, although I’ve participated in many surgeries. I wish I had you nearby, as I’ve got a Generac that developed an undiagnosed problem, plus now it’s seized. One thing in humans, you can deliver meds to counteract the problem....not so in a generator (except carburetor cleaner). I’m in a County where it’s actually not safe to trust anyone claiming they are a mechanic it have fixed the problem before. Often you end up on the losing end of the stick...First is usually the theft of your parts, second they couldn’t find the problem but you owe them for time and labor, or there is no such business ...and they said they pick up and deliver. If there is a criminal venture, it’s going on in Northern California small counties!
We have used the czcams.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Jim, Your videos have inspired me. Yesterday I picked up a Honeywell 5500 generator (very similar to the Generac line). It was advertised as non-running, needing a new carburetor, and making a ticking noise. I picked it up for $70 and just happened to have a correct donor carburetor for parts. Following your lead I was able to get it running well and producing power. Thank you for sharing your significant knowledge and experience. Cheers.
Thanks. Glad to hear it.
go get some more to fix
and more power to you.
I purchased a "non-running" Generac XP8000E with only 13 hours from new. James, thanks to this video I went directly to the cause. Got it on the heel of the cam and used a soft hammer and a long screwdriver and BINGO! Changed it onto 5/30 Synthetic oil and it runs like a charm. You are truly appreciated Sir! Thank you!
Great Video. I Have an old Generac 12 Kw stand by generator. Motor will turn over but won't start. Turns out number 2 cylinder has a broken intake push rod. Took the head off and it too has a stuck tappet. In the up position. Just touched it with a hammer, dropped right in. I'll let it soak in some upper combustion cleaner. It's an old unit but came from an estate with regular maintenance. Oil is perfect. I saw your video a while ago and had to go back and watch again. You are more ambitious than I. Don't really want to take this whole thing apart. It's almost 20 years old. Just get it running.
Get this case closed up no pun intended great score my friend!!!
Thank You for making this video. I can only aspire to your level of mechanical expertise.
Wow! I learned something new. Based on what you went through for the rotor/stator tear-down, when I run across a stuck tappet, I am going to soak it in penetrating oil and see if it frees up before ripping everything apart. Hindsight is 2020 but foresight is 2022!
Might be better to let it soak. I only gave it 24 hours before digging in.
I have catching up on your videos and came across this one. That was an awesome trick with the water on that rotor. Never seen that done before but you pulled it off. Amazing job my friend.
As a family looking for a whole home generator, we watch these videos of all these brands being repaired and it makes our decision easier. Honda!
They cost more, but they work. I rarely find one of those to fix.
I’m having problems getting my Generac generator to start. It has a clean carb, good fuel, spark, and with starter fluid. A guy in another video had similar issues and found his intake pushrod just laying unconnected. I was hoping this was my problem after pulling my hair out. It wasn’t. I sure hope it’s not the same problem you had because, although an excellent tutorial, I got anxiety watching all the bolts and nuts you took off. I wouldn’t be able to keep track without a labeled baggy for each one, lol. I’ve already lost the two nuts that mount the carburetor, lol! Excellent job! Instant subscriber!
Since watching James , I
would not be involved with
GENERAC
prt 17 is just on the exhaust
awesome ⚡️ video
Great job again James! and the water trick was awsum! Never seen this one before..love the vids. always informative!
Thanks
That was some real MacGyver stuff you pulled with the water to break the stator free. Very impressed. Great video.
Thanks. No gum required.
Hey Jim, very nice video in detail! I learned something today! THANKS!😎
Great job mister science! That was pretty cool
Great instructional video - just picked up one for free that wasn't producing power - ready to dive in
Have fun!
Another winner , the water was a winner ! I saw one fellow that used bread , worked great . Great video
Thanks 👍
I love how you order a part, and it arrives immediately. Video editing is magic.
Yes the magic of video editing. Some of these take 1-2 months to get the parts I need.
@@jcondon1 video edditting? Other people call it Amazon prime, but wat do they know...
BTW, the water worked great! I know we saw it on your video, but still astonished when "POP" it came off... amazing!
Great detailed video. Thanks for the work.
You my hero I Love You video I can watch him all day long great mechanical skill
The water method works great for a snowmobile clutch with no puller as well. Same problem, it’s difficult to get the clutch in the proper orientation for the water method to work.
I am always amazed, James.
Thanks
Great job, though it really did not explain why the lifter got stuck or the crud in the oil , i've pulled a few of these apart but it was fun watching someone else do it , did not think that water would work to pop the armature they can be stubborn to pop sometimes ive striped threads a few times getting some off, but that is one method i have never seen before will remember that one, the intake valve not having a cap is bazar i have a 16hp honda clone here and its got caps on both, so yea really enjoyed watching thanks for making the video was fun watching it .
I was expecting damage on the lifter, but it was just the sticky oil I assume caused by the acorn that was somehow in the engine. I have no explanation on how someone got that in the engine. Until this engine, I had only seen either both valves with the caps or both without. Have since seen others this way.
18:06 Been binge watching your videos and this is the second I've seen where you have a 3/8 thread and don't wanna mess up the threads (use water/oil to compress). I've encountered similar and while I don't know if it'll work for this, this is how I solved the problem..... cut the head off the longest bolt (3/8 here), cut a slot in the bolt where the head used to be. This will allow you to use a long screwdriver to thread it into the output shaft. Once that bottomed out, use another rod and bolt to push against that. Since it's fully threaded into the shaft, its "threads safe". Used this method on lawn equipment years ago as a golf course mechanic where flipping a 3 ton mower on it's nose or cart on it's side wasn't an option. Like your approach, but figured I'd mention an alternative that's got less clean up.....
Yes that would work well. Just hard to come across bolts if that length.
@@jcondon1 You can use KIERROTANKO (thread bar ?). They are long enough. In Europa 1 or 2 or 3 m long. You cut as long as you need.
Very impressed, I can not wait to get 1 to work on !
As×rrxq
You are a heck of a good troubleshooter
There is no valve stem cap on the intake valve for hondas and honda clones. It's only needed for the exhaust valve, presumably due to thermal expansion. You can tell by the fact that there isn't any space for it on the intake valve spring retainer.
I would think the same, especially because the parts diagram shows one only on the exhaust valve BUT the quantity says two. P/N: OJ58620120. Have same model same problem
You are correct, no value stem cap on the intake side
Mine had both caps
Badass water trick!
Thats a nifty little trick there!
hi james the water worked, thats is first time i have seen that ,you are putting a lot of man hours on this one , it looks a good gene, money in the bank mate
I usually take a rubber mallet and tap on the armature. That has always worked for me.
I have a Homelite 3500 with a stuck valve... Intake too hahah!
Perfect video to help me figure out the next steps
Excellent video!
Iam working on one now with this same problem. I removed push rod spayed the tappet with PB Blaster and let it sit. It worked well
Nice
Good job man!
Well done!
In retrospect, could you have used some carb spray in the frozen valve shaft to loosen it up. Not ure if thi could have help or be doable. Great video!!!
J Monte thanks. I did try carb spray and wd-40 for a few days with no luck. Turned the camera on after that failed. Was surprised it did not work.
Great video!! one question. where do you get the torque specs?
I’m wondering if the oil had some form of sugar in it from the nut residue? That would / could result in the sticky cam follower.
Hi there!
Excellent video. Hard and good work.
I think that something else must have happened to your generator. I don't think it's was just due to a bad oil.
Let me explain why I believe it.
I have a new Generac GP5500 generator. It only has 8 hours of use with the same oil that came from factory. After these 8 hours (first use), it did not start again.
The spark, in the spark plug, was perfect. I perfectly cleaned the carburetor but it still didn't start.
Then I disassembled the valve cover and found the problem. The pushrod of the intake valve was laying free on the bottom.
It was released because the valve was sticky and did not return at the same time/speed as the pushrod. It did not maintain a constant pressure or contact between the components (valve, rocker arm and pushrod). This caused that, even if the valve clearance was eliminated or fully tightened (adjusted to .00 mm or with no gap for testing), the pushrod it would fall off when the engine was turned.
I solved this problem with a few drops of lubricant, which did it immediately.
Now the engine start at the first pull, as it was.
But I'm afraid it will happen again.
It makes no sense that this has happened to such a new generator.
I do not think it is a coincidence that this has happened in the mechanism of the intake valve as it happened with your generator.
It will surely happen again and the same work will have to be done; also in your generator that, in your case, require much more work.
I fear that it is due to a condition of poor lubrication (bad irrigation and/or oil pressure), or/and a poor desing and/or poor finish of these intake valve components, including the cylinder head, in some models of this brand. Maybe the gasoline is affecting it? Friction? Temperature? Materials? Parts? Other?
Any other idea of what really caused this problem? Suggestions? I need to be able to trust this generator as reliable. I really appreciate it.
Thank you!
Carl Luciani judging by some of the comments this seems to be a fairly common problem with these engines. In my case the tacky oil was enough to to cause things to bind up. Before turning the camera on I tried soaking the area in WD40 and later carburetor cleaner. Neither made any difference. Was expecting to see something broken inside. Would guess that the tolerance of the lifter hole is too tight or the lifter diameter a little too wide. Would think putting some hours on it will help. Otherwise maybe running it with a lighter weight oil like 5w-30 might help. The only way to solve the issue for sure is to bring the lifters to a machine shop and have them remove a little material so the fit is not so tight.
Well my generac 3250 is a United power 170 engine when I look that up I can find my generator with exact look alike motor. Made in china. So not surprising that these small engines from there have issues like this.
All the Generac's GP7500 and below seem to be made in China. Basically you could get the same thing in a Ryobi for half the price.
@Carl... You wrote all that and completely forgot the fact he found acorn shell in the oil. !
@@TheMustangStampede make sure you use your generator carefully as well czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html just hoping everyone stays safe especially when using generators. Stay safe. Thank you
The Generator Whisper LOL
When I bought my Generator New in 2010 (found out is a China Clone) It had same/similar issue Right off the bat - so never started ever....brother found/fixed for me Have not had issue since (tho only has 39 hrs on it) is called 'DEK 5000' and looks exactly like this one … am cleaning out carb as I had left gas in it - and knew it would not start
James I have a porter cable bsi5500 . I can’t get it started. I took the valve cover off and the valves moved.
I have new carburetor, oil, spark plug , ignition coil, air filter, fresh gas and filter.
Pull start seems a a little to easy to pull.
I am at a loss
THOMAS DRELICH Fuel and spark are the most common problems. If you have not already, try some starter fluid. If nothing, then double check spark. Verify you see spark on the plug. Also note, if the coil is mounted backwards it might produce a weak spark, but no spark when under compression. If you are sure you have spark and fuel, then you are left with compression and timing. The flywheel has a key that could be sheared. That would throw the timing off, but that would be unusually for a generator. A sheared key is much more common on a lawn mower after hitting a rock. Compression can be hard to test because most generators have a compression release built in, so even with a healthy engine, you probably will not get above 60 psi on the compression gauge. Generally, a healthy engine should be 100+ psi without a compression release. Did you check the valve clearance? Potentiality a value is not closing all the way either due to a clearance issue or not seating correctly on the head. Could also be a blown head gasket. That happens most from over-heating caused by the cooling fins being clogged with a debris. If not the values or head gasket, then you are looking at a piston or cylinder issue. Or the internal timing may have jumped between the crank and cam shaft (rare). Before taking the head off, you should get a cheap compression tester and check the numbers.
good job
I am kind of a Generac fan, that 7500 watt with the stuck valve is a nice unit
Sounds nice. And hope you stay and carefully use your portable generator czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html here’s a video about keeping your family safe while using generators. Just hoping everyone stays safe. Thank you
excellent!
Hello James, Thanks for the great video. My GP5500 has a stuck exhaust valve. I removed the muffler and tried spraying the valve stem. If I have to remove the head would you know I find the torque spec? Its the 0059396 engine. Thanks, Rick
Be careful using portable generators czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html here’s an advice about keeping your family safe while using generators. Just hoping everyone stays safe. Thank you
Useful video
Thanks a lot
Thank you for all of the videos. They have been really helpful. I'm currently rebuilding this same engine, but Generac doesn't have the torque specs available. Maybe ask what you used for torque spec references?
One of the best Generator. strip-downs seen on here! Would like to have known more how the valve conduit gummed up enough to seize it. And why precisely does the intake valve not need a cap - if it means it's gonna be clank-clanking away till Xmas?
I was just as surprised. Most Briggs 10 HP engines have no caps and other do. Usually I see both or nether, but I guess it is not that uncommon to have just one. Am fairly sure it was just oil contamination and maybe machined a little tight.
@@jcondon1 I was surprised that you didn't do anything to clean out that passage, run something through there to check it out...
Great video James I found that same cap in the exhaust spring. That tap it. Or whatever #3 is in that diagram isn't coming out all the way on its own. Would I have to take the whole engine apart to fix that? Do you know
Do I understand you that the rotator cap is stuck in the spring? It is possible to remove the valve spring without taking the engine apart, but care must be taken so the valve does not fall into the cylinder otherwise you will need to remove the head. Remove the spark plug and rotate the engine to top dead center of the compression stroke. The piston at the top of the cylinder should keep the valve from dropping all the way into the cylinder. You can now remove the valve spring. NOTE: the valve will drop down some making reinstalling the spring and spring retainer difficult. To minimize the valve drop you can add a little rope to the cylinder before rotating the engine to TDC. Then when at TDC the rope should fill the rest of the space and the valve will drop very little when the spring is removed.
Hello. I’m new to your channel. Amazing videos. One quick question What is the right valve adjustment on this model? (.004)
.006 intake and .008 exhaust.
This is a GREAT video! Is it possible for you to share the torque values you used for re-assembly? I cannot find this information anywhere...
Be careful using portable generators czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html here’s an advice about keeping your family safe while using generators. It’s very important especially during power outages
In my experience many of these Honda's and Honda clones, only have a Valve Rotator Cap on the exhaust valve, not on the intake, which is why one is 'missing' on yours. Still watching your video so likely you realised this. Plus this is 2 years old now :D
Ha - spoke too soon 24:00 - good stuff.
hi mr james great video i have a problem a lot pressure coming from carburetor on a exact same generac generator gp7500e i check valves and intake moves but exhaust barely moves i can say it may the same problem on your video???? or some thing else???
If the exhaust is not moving much that either expedite valve clearance or more likely a worn camshaft. These are know to have camshaft issues.
Hmmm, my 7500e has a square rocker cover. Different engine suppliers I spose. Wonder if one is junkier.
Might also use a drill on the bolt. Turning very quickly won't let fluid escape
I am wondering why after rubbing assembly lube all over the cam gear you left the rockers, fulcrums and valve stems dry?
I used a degreaser inside the engine to clean all the acorn pieces out. Was concerned about adequate lubrication after that. Probably should have done the top end as well.
Great video. What is the purpose of pushing the rope into the spark plug hole when remounting the alternator at 28:07?
To lock the engine so I can torque down the rotor bolt.
kool thank you!! where can I find the parts manual for these Taiwan engines all generator manufacturer is using them & I searched for the info!
This engine was made in China. My model was 0059432. Parts can be ordered at www.partstree.com/models/gp6500-0059432-generac-portable-generator-sn-6403444e-6832541e-2011/
Would the use of fully synthetic oil (Mobil 1) help prevent sticking of the tappets?
Changing the oil every 6 months with any good no syn needed. Most people don't realize you need to change the oil that often. This engine was neglected.
I know this comment is over a year since the video, but wanted to tell you I had a 4000 Watt Champion generator in my shop recently that was stuck with something other than oil. After a few flushes and adjustments it ran great. Don't what people put into engines that are other then good oil??? Thanks for the video.
Some little boy on Tarylfixesall put pancake syrup in his Dad's mower for oil and
water in the gas tank, so ya never know!
A cpl careful taps wuth a rubber mallet would have got that armature off in seconds no clean up either. Very nice video think Im having the same issue
Chrash Delivers I have tried the mallet approach several times without much luck, but know that others have had luck with it. Good luck fixing your issue.
What method is that. I had water method fail only cut a rod to length and i think the threads for bolt to push the rod ripped right off. So, Im now stuck
You can use that hydraulic separation technique with grease. (if you don't want to stand it up)
Please keep your family safe while using generators czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html here’s an advice. Just hoping everyone stays safe. Thank you
If you look at the two tappets, the one that was stuck it's definitely a darker color. I'm wondering if that chunks of acorn somehow got crushed up into a powder was spread around by the oiling system, and created a bit of friction on that tappet.
I definitely think I would spend some time decreasing the entire insides making sure it's completely clean and then re-lube it before reassembling it. What a very odd odd failure. I agree with you also not really being able to think how a piece of acorn could possibly get in the engine in the first place. Perhaps at some point somebody left the oil fill cap off and the critter dropped or even went down inside there. Considering you found acorns in the oil that's really the only explanation I can come up with.
also I wonder with such short amount of run time, maybe the contamination occurred even at the factory when it was assembled. Maybe the engine blocks sat unattended for a while before being put together and someone didn't notice the junk in the bottom of the engine block before putting it together. It certainly would take a while for that acorn to get crushed up once the engine was running.
One other thing I wonder is why the owner didn't have it repaired under warranty. With such short hours. unless of course he owned it for several years and just didn't use it much.
He had owned it for a while so was not under warranty. Either the cap was left off or maybe he grabbed a funnel that had some junk in it and did not notice. That was an odd one.
sabotage
@@jimcny3 kids playing around will do oddball things. wouldn't surprise me if one dropped an acorn down the oil dipstick tube.
19:20 Man! That thing launches off of there!!! lol
Great video I am doing what you have done here but I cannot get the center bolt free the inside spins with the bolt is there a trick to break this bolt free? Thanks!
better than eden off-grid homestead I removed the spark plug and turned the engine until the piston was at the bottom of its stroke. Then got a rope and feed it down the spark plug hole. Once enough rope is in there try again. If you put enough rope in, the piston cannot reach the top and you will be able to turn the bolt out. Rope works well, but need good clean rope that you know will not break off in the cylinder. Also you can order something called a piston stop. You screw it into the spark plug hole and it will contact the piston holding the engine still when rotated.
James Condon thanks so much for the quick reply & all your other videos I've subscribed & am very thankful for your videos! Very helful!
I'm repairing an ETQ TG52T42 generator. The thing only has 50 hours on it and I take good care of it but when I was starting it up for the winter, it ran for about 20 seconds, and then all hell broke loose. I diagnosed the issue. Turns out the intake valve seems to have become detached from the valve spring retainer, causing the piston to slam right into it, bending it as well as damaging the head. After replacing the head, valve, and retainer I ALSO noticed that not only did the intake have no valve rotator cap (as you're seeing with your Generac) but only the exhaust has a valve down spring retainer. Now I'm trying to get an answer to why that is seeing that other engines, like Briggs and Stratton, do have these for both valves.
Also, this is the last time I buy a Chinese engine. It isn't easy getting parts for these things.
That is my biggest complaint on Chinese engines. No manufacturer name, no model number and no parts.
@@jcondon1 Yep. I have no problems fixing these things but I need to source parts somewhat locally. All of the parts I had to order were only available from Great Britain, adding shipping cost and time. While putting it back together I noticed I needed a gasket and pushrod. I ended up making the gasket. The pushrod was only $10 but $30 after shipping so since it was just a smidge bent, I carefully straightened it back out. These are parts I would normally just buy but that sticker shock makes you get creative.
I have a question, what is the valve lash setting?
you think maybe the tappet wasn't getting enough oil flow and was starting to seize? maybe something to do with whatever that is that you found in the engine?
You may be right, some kind of chemical reaction causing by the acorn affected the oil viscosity. Or the adversely wrong type of oil was used.
How do valves get lubrication in these engines ?
Can you do a video on how to properly set the rocker arm timing??
Timing or valve lash? I will link to a video where I did both (it was on a Briggs through). czcams.com/video/WzCxOm6iXvQ/video.html
When removing the rotor, what about using the rod by turning the end down smaller than the threads so the end would not impact the threads?
That would also work, but have bent a couple larger rods. A smaller might not be enough.
Your video was great, thank you, my problem is a little different and I was wondering if you have any ideas of what you might think my problem is. I have a Wen Power Pro 9000 and it was running great. Here is what happened I have two generators and I usually crank them up about once a month and let them run for about 15 minutes, well about a month ago I did just that, well while the 9000 was running I was jacking with the govener (sp) and the engine would speed up then it would slow down, all of a sudden while I was doing that the engine stopped and ever since then it won't start, I have check the spark it's good, the gas flow good, the oil level good, I've even disconnected the oil switch and nothing, when I put my hand over the carb I get backfire through the carb, it pops and snorts and farts but it will not run I pulled off the cover for the rockers and they and the pushrods seem to be working fine....any suggestions?
I would remove the airbox cover and filter. Look through the carburetor and make sure the throttle plate is full open (when engine is off). Potentially the governor spring broke or came disconnected like what happened in this video czcams.com/video/xlsTJcJxTqw/video.html
Otherwise would consider timing or compression, but would find that unlikely based on your description.
What size bolt did you use on the water method? I have mine apart right now but i cant find a bolt that fits the threads.
Jeremy Lester I do not recall, but would guess an M12 1.75. Let me know if that works so others can see the size.
@@jcondon1 it worked, thank you
I have this same one and today (we had a hurricane last night) it was running fine and died. I checked oil and it was a little low so instead of just adding some I changed it. Started right up and then within a minute a big BANG backfire and puff of smoke out the exhaust and now no start. Now it will backfire out or the carb but not start. 80psi compression and I adjusted the valves and checked timing on the magnet with TDC. Pulled the cylinder head and the valves are closing fine. Seems the timing is off, but the key in the flywheel is fine. Ideas?
Eric Earhart it’s acting like the exhaust valve is not opening. Did you pull the head or just the valve cover? For timing when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke, both valves should be closed and the magnet just clearing the coil.
@@jcondon1 I pulled the head and cleaned the top of the piston and the combustion chamber. I agree with the exhaust valve diagnosis. While slowly turning the flywheel and watching the valves the exhaust valve doesn't close till exactly TDC, the engine is firing several degrees BTDC. Conversely the intake valve is fully closed as the magnet begins to meet the coil. I thought I was observing the compression release effect?
Great video ..HELP!!..Do all generators briggs have valve stem caps on them ? i cant get a answer from anyone ? i got a 10 hp Vanguard
engine without them ? i looked on line on the blow up view It dont show one on mine ???? Thanks
cowboy0140 not all engines have them. Pretty sure the 10 HP Briggs engine on the storm responder generators do not have them. Would have though the Vanguard engine would have since they are built better. The parts diagrams are usually pretty accurate.
In this video starting at 5:49 you can kinda see if you zoom in not rotator caps. czcams.com/video/kWSKi07JxXc/video.html
@@jcondon1 thanks ..this driving me nuts ..got a gen that runs ..But will not power up Carb .on choke or any where half or full ? i replaced the carb plugs ? It had a bend push rod when i got it ? so replacing the head and head gasket ,i think a valve is stuck ? Not the timing key i checked that first ? you can smell raw gas burning when running ? thanks for you help ! Love the videos.. Please kept them coming ! Be Safe..
James, When adjusting valves, do you use the TDC with the intake open, then when exhaust open or technique when at the compression stroke both valves are free then adjust? I imagine you refer to their spec sheet as well for instruction but in general is there one method more correct than the other ? .. and as usual - love your vids !! thanks.
I adjust at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). But it does not really matter. When one valve is all the way open, you can adjust the other. The problem with TDC is that it is there twice, once when ending the compression stroke and again at the ending of the exhaust stroke. A lot of people do not realize that and adjust the valves wrong.
@@jcondon1 yes, pardon both valves closed. Got it.. I think I will try that from now as I sometimes wonder if I'm on the correct stroke, even after the compression uptick. Thanks again!
Hi can i use a car battery ( high amper) to start a generator.
shanks akagami yes. The starter motor will only pull the amps that it needs. Car battery should be fine. Note though this generator does not have a charging system for the battery. You have to use the plug in charger that comes with the generator or a trickle charger. I recommend a trickle charger the one that comes with it does not stop charging when the battery is full so you could end up ruining your battery. Just make sure the polarity is correct.
Question on Generac - The manual for an old 5500XL I have with a GN320 engine says to adjust valves every 50 hours. That seems a bit much. What is your take and experience? Thanks!! Great channel, BTW. Subscribed.
That is overkill. Most never check them. But it is a good idea to do once in a while. I would say every 200 to 500 hours. That said I actually do not check the valves on my stuff unless I notice a problem with power, compression or leak down.
I have same machine
Pull start stick so I removed it
There is a rough spot when I turn crankshaft and I have to use a bar to move it through the cycle
Could this be a valve issue like you had?
Is the hard spot once every revolution one once every two revolutions?
Ask them what they mixed with the oil! the seal may have been leaking and they used some kind of seal puffer!
I like to watch the” water boarding” rotor extraction technique. Pop that rotor. The rotor shoot off because of trapped air in hydraulic.
On top of that I also saw you replace water with blank rod, and the pry bar plus few blows of a rubber mallet at the side of rotor.
Let me add few more for options.
1) Nail gun firing blank into the hollow shaft, pneumatic, no need of - PTFE tape or sealing. Best result - pretension the rotor outward and engine rear wards.
2) prepare a spare stock retaining bolt, be headed by (0.5~1 inch), add a slot at the blank side, drive it into the engine shaft through rotor shaft, full threads. Add compression behind the modified stock bolt by a second bolt. To see that rotor pop off.
3) keep the same bolt in the rotor shaft, but unwind it 1 to 2 turns. Pretension the rotor outwards and engine backwards. Use iron mallet to drive the rotor shaft bolt at bolt head.
Suspend the crank case on a piece of plank first.
I can confirm #2. Have not tried 1 and 3.
@@jcondon1 I didn’t remember I saw the #2 on this channel. Can you copy me a link?
@@jcondon1 may I add #4
Retrace the thread in the rotor shaft to full tap threading. Find a matching bolt to couple between the rotor shaft and a pull slide hammer. Start slide hammer backwards to see the rotor pop off.
Great video thank you so much !!! I’m on the process to fix mine have any chance you can send the link to by those parts and the code for those parts? Thanks for your time
I ordered the parts from partstree.com. Tappet# 0J58620141, crankcase gasket# 0J58620111, oil seal# 0J58620202. Please note, there are several revisions of the GP7500E. It would be best to find your exact model/serial number and lookup the parts to ensure that your parts are the same. The model number on mine was 0059432. Serial number 6830786E. The model info is on a white sticker on the backside of the upper rail. The parts diagram for my model and serial is located at the following link: www.partstree.com/models/gp6500-0059432-generac-portable-generator-sn-6403444e-6832541e-2011
Show me all of parts that's inside a "Generac OHV389cc a part is missing that make the dogs kick out show me all part above recoilrpring
James , where did you get that IV gas bottle or how did you make it ?
It is available on Amazon amzn.to/3eCmLaw
Have you ever run into an exhaust that has broken? My Wen 9000 has broken 2 of them. No internal damage and there arn't that many hours on this thing. Any help would be appreciated.
I have not seen that before. Where is it breaking?
Both times it broke off where the valve keeper lands. Essentially the top of the valve breaks off. Thanks 😊
what could be the possible issue when the valves are moving but the cylinder head gets pushed all up, and never gets down? still can be rotated...
You mean the piston? if so, then the connecting rod is broken.
Hi James been watching your videos and because of your thorough explanation of every step I was not to worried about purchasing a generac GP7500E. This would of been a great one for you that someone had already attempted to repair. It to has a stuck tappet on the exhaust side but down not up unfortunately Im thing the cam lobe will be toast when I get her open. Is there a repair manual that you aware of with torque specs for this machine? And do you know the thread on the end of the Armature?
I will see if I have the manual. The bolt on the rotor should be an M12 1.75. Worn lobes are a very common problem on the GP7500 series.
@@jcondon1 that was it, came right off, too easy a matter a fact.
Glad to hear. Also found the service manual that I used for the GP series. Oddly enough I do not think it includes the GP7500e, but would think the torque specs are probably the same on the GP6500. drive.google.com/file/d/1HRNFPDSgwufAEjqyFJrgbFnEkbUOSr_8/view?usp=sharing
we’ll the video is good 👍 but my question is , why the valve gets sticky or stuck on this generators ? it’s engine problems
Would a slap hammer work to get the rotor out ?
I would probably work. Have not tried it.
I have a Powerhorse 9000 generator in my shop. It won’t run. When you turn it over, after a few tries, it backfires out of the carb. Is it possible for the cam and crank gears to jump a tooth and get out of time? Here’s what I’ve done so far. Cylinder leak down test, it passed. Checked spark, spark will jump 1/4 inch. Rocker arms adjusted to spec and operating properly. Removed valve springs and made sure valves aren’t sticking. Removed muffler and made sure it’s not clogged. Pulled flywheel and checked key, it’s good. Checked ignition coil gap. Carb is spotless and working. Clean gas tank and fresh gas. The only thing left would be the timing between the cam and crank.
You can check the valve timing by rotating to top dead center on the exhaust stroke. In that position rock the engine back and forth. You should see valve overlap. Exhaust closing and intake opening. At tdc of the exhaust stroke both valves should be open a little if valve timing is good. If good then would look at replacing the plug or maybe the coil. These engines spark twice. Once on tdc of the compression stroke and again on tdc of the exhaust stroke when both valves are open. Potentially you are only getting ignition on the waste spark during valve overlap?
@@jcondon1 Thank you!!!
@@jcondon1 Just tried what you said. At TDC of the exhaust stroke both valves are just slightly open. I used a cylinder leak down test to confirm. So I’m going to order a new ignition coil. After all the time I’ve spent working on this thing, if it turns out to just be a bad coil, I’m gonna throw myself into a volcano. Lol. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Great video
I’d get a hydraulic lift table
It makes life easy
Your back will thank you
Thanks 👍
I wonder if that tappet was slightly out of spec when it was made?
It may have been. Generacs do have a lot of valve issues.
That yellow brown oil color is what full synthetic such as Mobil 1 oils look like with low hours and lots of sitting time. I suspect if the owner had changed the oil at least once a year or slightly under he would not have had a problem. That lifter and its bore might have had a varnish build up on the surface that comes from oil a with a little gas contamination and time.
Be careful using portable generators czcams.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/video.html here’s an advice about keeping your family safe while using generators. Especially during power outages. Just hoping everyone stays safe
Great job, thank you. But somewhere in video a little bit shorter. Alternator end connection you don't show. You fast pass this part and also torques of bolts. You can explain in the video armatur bolts, engine crank case bolts etc. How many torques needs this bolts. İf you do this in the video with writing subtitle, it will be more benefit to us. Because we can't find these torque values and these values are very important for engine repairing.
Again thank you so much. Sory for my poor English. Waiting for new generator videos with excitedly. Have nice days :))
Özgür Demirtaş I could not find the exact torque values which is why I did not cover them in the video. Before removing the bolts I used a torque wrench to find the torque where the bolt started to move and used that value when reinstalling. I think the main center bolt was around 35 ft lbs. the stator bolts I do not remember, but think it was around 20 ft lbs. I recommend calling Generac for the exact values.
The statue bolts are a lot smaller. 20 ft lbs might be too high.
I understand, Thank you so much for your answers.