Diesel Heater CLOGGED after running used hydraulic oil +cleaning
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2022
- Well it managed one night of operation then refused to relight properly
i dont know what condition the heater was in before the test but the hv 46 certainly finished it off.
maybe i need to operate at higher burn temperature. - Věda a technologie
The first proper video about the problems running a heater on old oil. Ps you were lucky to get that ring out as normally you can't. Well done
Hey James. I've been trying for a while now to get my diesel heater to burn waste oil, and I have come to the conclusion that there may be a way to do this, but 99% of what people on CZcams / the internet say is complete nonsense or lies. The bottom line is that diesel is refined to remove lots of stuff that causes build up (we'll call it). If you burn a gallon of waste oil, there is X amount of contamination that will go into the heater, and chances are, it's only coming out when you manually remove it via disassembly.
If you get into really fancy filtration with a setup that has a centrifuge, you would probably get better results, but this is not practical for most people as it requires a few steps, the cost of the equipment and a place to keep all of this stuff.
I have been trying different mixtures of waste oil and diesel, gasoline, verosol, methanol and combinations of all of these, and burning them lean using "alpine mode" and have found that, like I said above, you burn X amount of fuel and it has X amount of garbage that doesn't burn. The only comment on this video that may make some sense (I haven't tried it yet) is if you can set up your heater to really high fan speeds, without higher fuel HZ, once the heater is up and running hot, so that it blows out some of that garbage....
I have seen literally dozens of people claiming to run thousands of hours on waste oil or alternative fuels, but conveniently, not a single one of them has video proof... what they have is one video making bold claims, or no videos at all and just claims. One goof claiming that he burnt waste oil for 3 years and had one issue, takes apart a heater that looks new and shows oil that wouldn't run for a day... No video of it running before that video, no video of it running after that video, and in that video he strangely runs it on kerosene instead of the waste oil that he claims he was running. I asked him about this and he said that he had gotten rid of the heater because the county had threatened him with fines ...
Anyway, that's my rant. A whole lot of idiots spreading misinformation and offering advice based on zero experience. The closest thing that I got to running for a few days is about 1/4 gas to 3/4 oil ratio... this ran for about 4 days straight (with no shut down) before needing to be cleaned out. *NEEDING TO BE CLEANED OUT = It simply wouldn't run any longer and had about 4 times as much junk in it than yours did. Burn chamber almost completely full.
PS... I need to check to see if that ring comes out of my chamber !! I've been using a 90º pick to get in there, haha.
Thank you a ton for this write up. I'm about to get into the same world, trying to hack the system with getting my heat here in Wisconsin.
Have you personally tried waste automatic transmission oil and diesel? This is what I was going to try first. Supposedly less contaminants.
I saw a video where a guy was making black diesel and running old farm equip on it. used the centrifuge and a 10 micron filter or something, and apparently has zero issues. I'm wondering if the centrifuge really would make the world of difference for the diesel heater setup
@@Joe_P Hey Joe. This is Joel, just signed into a different account. I have a few videos up of my disasters on the lowered expectations channel. I haven't tried trans oil and diesel. I suspect that it is much cleaner than waste oil. If you are willing to invest the time, space and money into a proper filtration system using a centrifuge, that will make a HUGE difference.
Nothing is going to get all of the nasty stuff out of oil, almost every oil will have additives to make them better at lubricating and some will have stuff to try to stop them from burning, but a centrifuge is your best bet to remove as much of this junk as possible.
If you have a controller where you can control the fan speed independently of the fuel pump HZ, I have heard it recommended that you run max fan speed and no more than 3hz once the heater is up to temperature. If possible, start and shut it down on diesel of kerosene. I haven't personally tried this, but it makes sense to me.
pulling that little disc out of there is a game changer, i was able to dig under the disc but didnt try pulling on it, definitely check that next time im in there.
Great starting place, mine is doing the exact same, thanks for sharing.
Good find with the disk never noticed it before when cleaning my one 😀
Berryman's b12 catalyst carb, choak, and throttle cleaner...2/1 cleaner and diesel ....ether to bump it running.....3c total....2c Berryman's. Works like a charm. Also, diesel power service *brand* diesel clean additive is a gift from GOD!!!
I drive a semi states side......saved my ass more than once......also had to provide fuel to my wabasto bunk heater for me and my dogs on account of low temps.....berryman's is my friend
Sir you are amazing!
Definitely one of the best strip downs I’ve seen, great informative video. Thank you.
I have been using Kerosine heating oil with a mixture of sea foam which was working great for a couple of days then yesterday flamed out with E-8 error I think the Pump which I changed a week ago has also stopped working? Shame because I pay 70p ltr for heating oil so less than half the price of diesel although it’s now worked more expensive Ggrr
Kero is a bit "dry" for that type of pump, pump diesel has a lubricant added to replace the sulphur they banned back in the 90s to lubricate fuel pumps, kero doesn't have it, try adding a 50 to 1 mix of 2 stroke oil to the kero to keep the pump lubed 👍
Hey James- you rub a little engine oil into your gaskets before fitting them. that stops the sticking
ULTRASONIC Cleaner!!! So simple to clean out the crud. Use TSP solution mixed with HOT WATER. If you don't have a ultrasonic cleaner make one! Strap an electric vibrating sander to the outside of an empty pail. Fill it with TSP (trisodium phosphate) leave it overnight and bob's your uncle! BTW the bent up metal bar that is attached to the burner is a good tool to clean the crud inside the burner head it has a nice hook design! He has eyes's but cannot see!
Hydraulic fluids have zinc-based anti-wear compounds in them, and also anti-oxidation additives--which means they have at least some resistance to burning. Not enough, obviously. There is also up to about 5000PPM sulphur compounds in hydraulic oil. I use AW 46 in one application and the stuff really stinks of sulphur compounds. I'm not surprised that you're getting heavy deposits at the inlet...
yup.... hydraulic oils should always be thinned with heating oil (diesel/kerosene/jet A, etc) AND some petrol (up to 10 percent) ... I personally would switch to 50/50 diesel / petrol for many minutes at the end of the days use to blow any gunk out.
I'll be making videos in the new year that will address these issues. From making biodiesel for my generator, filtering waste oils to your here fix- ethanol. Hence it's time to start brewing and distilling too.
Ethanol is the key to keeping these burning clean when not fuelling with the recommended. Thin the fuel to the same viscosity as diesel and or add kero to the same effect.
If the fuel doesn't atomise properly you'll get this problem perpetually.
I would recommend leaving it to soak in acetone, it is used in labs to remove carbon from test tubes.
I was running my heater on 5% waste engine oil and 90% Kerosene and my heater after using for 3 months did the same (but i did not alter any settings) , i just bought a new burn chamber for £14,46 delivered from China and replaced it, but i am running the heater lean by putting the max fan speed to 5000 and the max Hz at 4600 and it is putting a lot of heat out now and hopefully it will not clog up now, i am using the heater installed in my home, i can buy Kerosene at a local filling station and it's £5 a Gallon, yes it's sold in gallons, it works out at £110 a ltr and it has reduced my gas usage a very lot.
If it is so clogged up a trick i used to use for unblocking 2 stroke exhaust pipes in the 80's was using Caustic soda to desolve the carbon, the burn chamber is all SS so CS will not harm it.
To save the gasket, wipe the surfaces with copper coat grease. It will seal without sticking.
You can burn it off with a map gas bottle. Then you can easily scrape it off with a coat hanger. Bend the end of the hanger about a half inch to clean around the inside behind the lip.
I could not find a way to run waste oil without cleaning the burn chamber every other day. Tried mixing gasoline 5050. Mixed in diesel and tried preheating. Ran it at 100 percent, tried alpine mode. Nothing worked. Gave up and built a drip feed burner.
Just for your information.
ATF and Hydraulic fluide/oil almost always have super high ammount of Sulphur and other solids that should not get burned since it forms a solid crust, that is why aft in engine oil is bad, especially in never engines.
Also synthetic oils haves detergents to dissolve crap so it goes into the filter, gear oils does not so all the crap settles to the bottom since many don't have filters
For soot sodium hydroxide is great for cleaning but it attacks Aluminium, but the burn chamber should handle it good so you may try soak it in hot caustic soda water for a few hours and agitating/shaking it every 10 minutes
The additives to distillate stock that makes oil into lubricant tend to burn to slag in the burn chamber. The YT channel called "Lubrication Explained" and especially their ZDDP video should explain. Lubricant may be only 50% oil and the rest additives. Ultimately you can run on fuels that were not intended but you must take the consequences. Waste oil is a totally variable mix of engine lubricant and additives, TQF, ATF gear oil and probably radiator coolant (mostly water!)
AS ever it's your choice to use cheap fuel and do regular clean-outs or use the listed fuel and have a longer service interval. IF viscosity is the only problem perhaps you could warm the fuel by heat exchanging with the exhaust.
I had exactly the same with my 2k Webasto heater running on clean engine oil, but not thinned out enough. The Ash was like concrete. I think ultimately oil needs to be as thin as possible to make it vaporise and burn clean, cause as soon as you get an upset in the burn AFR for what ever reason it will start making ash and then that affects it even more till its completely stopped up. Wrapping some copper brake pipe round the exhaust and pumping the fuel through it before the burner I think would help massively. Might be a Good experiment to see how hot you could get the oil pre-burner and see how viscous it is without it flashing off?
hmm, i like that idea. the flash point is around 200, worth a try in a future video
I don't' want to come across as being rude, but I have tried up to 50% gasoline and diesel, and neither of these work. One problem with gasoline is that it burns extremely fast. You would think that this would be good, but what actually happens is, at a certain percent, the gas will start to burn off instantly and leave the oil behind, the oil then pools up and burns off even worse than it would have on it's own. This is worsened by the fact that the rapid burning of the gas causes two other things to happen. 1. it consumes all the oxygen causing the flame to go out and come back at a very high frequency (several times a second). The lack of oxygen, and the willingness of the gas to burn means there is no oxygen to support the burn of the oil. I am making some guesses as to what is happening based on lots of experimentation and observation. 2. The gas burns abruptly causing the pressure to increase so much that it overcomes the combustion fan. The burner can't get more air until the pressure drops and the fan can feed more air, this process repeats and causes an effect similar to a pulse jet engine.
And that is my rant about thinning with gasoline. Ultimately, oil, and especially waste oil, has lot of stuff in it that will not burn in these heaters. If you burn X amount of oil, you also put X amount of this stuff into the heater. Most of the time, that means taking it apart to clean it out. There may me a way to disperse this stuff before it becomes a problem, but I haven't seen any proof of people being able to do this. Lots of claims, zero proof.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams thats exactly what I experienced. all the flutter sounds like a pulse jet. never seen a video where one burns clean.
maybe you can use a centrifuge (is that the corect english word?) to get most of the crap out of used engine oil, but is it worth it?
or just buy some heater-oil / red diesel for cheap and space all these headaces and smelly fumes for your neighbours 🤣
@@descent8275 I have considered building a small centrifuge, it couldn't make things worse, but like you say, is it worth it? Heater-oil here is $2/L as it is not very common. We use natural gas and it cost way less... I have two natural gas heaters in my garage.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams gonna disagree with you. i run 50 percent oil (heating oil, diesel, jet A, kerosene), 40 percent dewatered/filtered/clarified waste or vegetable oil or hydraulic, etc, and 10 percent petrol (any grade) to thin, lubricate, add heat content. it doesnt hurt to switch to 70/30 oil/petrol mix for the last 30 minutes to clear out any junk.
I believe error 8 is the electric power to the burner, not enough amps for the glow plug to ignite the heater, just my opinion
It might be better to experiment with a regular fuel oil burner set up. There are not tiny holes. To plug up. If the goal is to us up used hydrolic fluid.
Alot of hydraulic oils have a flame retardant in them for safety , like if a hose springs a leak onto a hot engine or exhaust manifold, it wont ignite so easily
I wouldn't say 'a lot' the stuffs extremely expensive and very hard on the hydraulic systems themselves. It's only used in *very* specific applications.
modern hydraulic oil is poe or polyester based witch is a form of plastic.
i suspect that microscopic esters that make up polyester may be melting and gumming up holes.
you probably are better off burning diesel or k1 kerosene.
however i have heard somewhere you can ruin the pump using k1 kerosene because it does not contain the lube properties .
I'm using filtered fish shop oil & paraffin. 1l of fish shop oil to 15% paraffin. Been working OK for the last 2 weeks. I will take it apart when I have a bit of time to see how the chamber is looking.
How'd it go?
@@Wrenchmonkey1 It's been going fine mate. I am now using 60% used filtered vegetable oil with 40% kerosene it works out cheaper as well. Burn chamber clean as a whistle. Hope it helps bud.
@@alanbrown7155
Sounds great! Glad it's working for you. Thanks for the response!
@@Wrenchmonkey1 No probs bud.
I think the manufacturer has tried to improve the product, I've had mine 2 years now. Why the repeated disassembly?
Where's your internal housing gasket? Looks like you forgot to install it when you pulled it apart before.
Needs to burn at 600 degrees, the oil turns into a plastic, clogging the air intakes. Double the fan' rotations, and triple the pump rate, the chamber should increase in temperature!
i commented on other ones.. use 50 percent heating oil / jet A / kerosene / diesel, 40 percent filtered / strained / dewatered waste oil/veg oil/hydraulic/etc, AND 10 percent petrol (for lubricity, thinning, raising jell point
mine just stopped, been running 2 winters, a quick blow up the air intake, and its running again. only use clean pump diesel.
I once ran a Landrover Series 3 LWB Diesel on Used hydraulic oil....I was given 400 litres of it.......all I did was strain it through denim cloth.........it ran really well, as good if not better than on straight diesel. I was also given a couple of hundred litres of brake fluid that was out of date and probably full of water.....I did the same straining.....and 3 years later it was still running happily when I sold it on.
just a thought but have you tried having a seperate tank with just diesel in it and a valve to switch from one fuel to another (if you get what i mean)that way you could finish off your burn with diesel and hopefully burn all that crap out
Seconded!
Have you ever heard about the old time mariners that would use rye whiskey to thin out the hydro fluid so it will burn hotter and cleaner in there old ww2 engines, I wonder if you mixed some alcohol in with your fuel if it would clean it up good enuf to run in your atomizer, my bet is at about 60:1 ratio to get rid of the cack,60 hydro to 1 alcohol, maybe even a hotter mix down to 30:1, it looks like water solubles that are caking up and not burning
Why not mix in some "Sea Foam" brand cleaning fluid into your fuel mix? I assume that it will keep it clean just like keeping valves in a diesel engine. Much easier to throw some of that in the mix than disassembling the thing every few weeks.
Check the small filter
So it's stick to diesel from watching this.
unless you really enjoy taking the heater apart on a very regular basis.. then yes.
Seconded. Anything other than diesel or kerosene and you ruin the back of the burner forever. Its pointless trying it, not to merntion the crap being sent into the atmosphere. Even veg oil damages the burner. Whatever savings are to be had are completely overshadowed by having to buy new burn chambers. Cleaning one is time best spent on other things and in the vast majority of these burn tubes, the disc is actually welded in.
bit too aggresive with your strip down & handling, it's a wonder the thing worked at all after. but great strip down vid anyway.
He's clearly not Rolls Royce trained '
Is a diesel heater, diesel.
You mean diesel oil heater
Stick with home heating oil and add a little Dipetane from time to time.
I have 1 of these heaters and plan on burning waist oil in it as well. I don't mind taking things apart to clean. would a sand blaster work to clean it up you think?
There is a ring of compressed rockwool and wire mesh on the outer wall inside the burning chamber, i think it works as an insulator and as a wick for unburnt fuel, you probably destroy it with the sandblaster. Better just carefully scrape it clean with a screwdriver, it doesn't need to be very clean...
You can see the ring of rockwool and wire mesh at 20:19 it is the light grey ring, best visible in the upper right part of the burning chamber.
Don't burn gear oil or hydraulic oil, they contain a lot of chemicals like ZDDP which produce a lot of ash.
Modern engine oils are often low ash because the ash would also clog the particulate filter in diesel engines, so they should also work better for these heaters.
So what are you see inside of that tube is Coke to byproduct from the fuel usually appears if there’s impingement in other words the flame is as it’s flaming somethings touching it just like when you put a little pan into a candle flame and it cokes same same purpose the only other thing that would cause it is insufficient airflow so not enough combustion air so the lighter the fuel you go the less carbon or Coke there is in it and if you can’t change anything but the fuel do you know your answer😳❤️🔥🇺🇸
sodium hydroxide put safety glasses on and outside if possible then wash out and rinse water watch Steven B Tuner he does a lot on DPF ON CARS CAT should help you he does one on Non Damaging dpf diesel particulate Cleaner
A tin of Brake cleaner may of helped clean it..
i have brake cleaner, its almost useless against burnt stuff. grease and oil amazing
Will ist burn without that Disc?
Such a good question, or can you make something simple to replace the disc? I chopped mine up today after watching this only to discover my disc had started to disintegrate, its not just wire mesh, there's something else inside the mesh. Here's mine. czcams.com/video/skZt0rTH-_c/video.html I was wondering about putting it back together without the mesh or using some stainless wire wool. I presume the mesh acts as both a heat store to keep things ignited once the glow plug goes out, and also to aid gas distribution once the fuel had vaporised.
Burn it next to the paper box..."MEEE AAAAM SMAAAART"
JBT, nice video. Had similar experiences, mesh in mine was finished.
Also...I really tried to get that disc out the tube after watching this, but mine wasn't ever going to come out. Used a serious amount of force from a slide hammer, hooks etc and didn't move an iota. Ended up chopping it up to get to it. Here's mine: czcams.com/video/skZt0rTH-_c/video.html
Looks like Sulphur.
I fucked up mine (brand new) after burning 3l of waste oil. Fixing it right now...
ultrasonic bath / cleaner hour heat on high it will be as new
Nope, the mesh doesn't respond to any amount of time in the bath, tried that! You end up with a nice shiny burn tube, but the mesh is still full of carbon deposits.
It's a diesel heater .
Mix the hydraulic oil with either diesel or paraffin 30% should be enough
how about grit blasting it?
Chuck in a grenade ??
Couldn’t you just fill the chamber with sticks and burn the crud out? Wood burns clean and the heat would most certainly remove the crud!
Hi its not good to burn hydroloc oil as it's carcinogenic
The exhaust gasses are outside, so it won't enter the house
You are making carbon deposits all inside your fuel inlet pipe. Try using brake clean.
Why do people run these heater on oil and hydraulic oil? The heater are designed to burn diesel. All the time and cost for repairs and time down. These heater run for 2000 hrs and no problem on diesel.
It's called experimentation and self learning. Some of us don't do vanilla!
free is free
I burn everything in mine. I clean it up once a year with a map gas torch. 5yrs and running. No other repairs except replacing the fuel line.
well a lot of people including me have made drip feed waist oil burners and had great results the problems with setups like that is it takes a lot of effort and manual fine tuning to get it running every time you fire it up and if something goes wrong thing's can get bad very quickly and these heaters with some modifications just makes sense
Because corrupt and greedy politicians have driven the price of diesel beyond the budget limits of many citizens. FJB FNWO
You figured wrong go back to the instructions it clearly states the reasons why and you want it vertical where it's pumping into it those plunger pumps are low volume high pressure You're actually doing a disservice and also you when you're running used oil you have to run it leaner
How many more videos do we need to see burning oil (and other kinds of fuel) in these DIESEL heaters doesn't work long term without plugging them up? But people are still trying to do it when it clearly does not work! WTF? We already know it doesn't work. Thanks!
Bro use carburetor cleaner soak it in you’re building up too much carbon when you use a torch to clean that
oven cleaner would have got that all back to bare metal
You can burn waste engine oil if you mix it half and half with diesel fuel or heating oil.Synthetic engine oil, gear oil or hydraulic oil should not be burnt because they contain synthetic non combustable chemicals.
Okay the way you were manhandling even the circuit board nobody should waste any more time watching this video I'm moving on to somebody else
awe.. you need a goodbye kiss and a hug before you go ?
Would you not go begging with a cup at a train station, borrow someone's dog, the money you collect you could afford to put diesel in it, instead of someone's hydraulic oil.