Chinese diesel heater cleaning up after waste oil mixture was used 🥴
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- čas přidán 18. 11. 2022
- Here is a video of the clean up after using diesel waste oil mixture 60/40. Wasn’t very pretty at all. The new mixture will be diesel, waste oil and petroleum ( gas) 60/20/10 ratio. Stay tune. Hope you enjoy the video.
I'm not gonna run anything but diesel (as long as it's an option) but... This was extremely informative with the teardown! Definitely worth my time, thank you.
Great tips , the door vent you made is genius, thanks
I'm excited to see someone finally testing alternative mixtures. I have been adding small amounts of used motor oil and gasoline mixed with my off road diesel and so far it hasnt been a problem. Its about 10% motor oil, 10% old gas and 80% diesel. I haven't put enough though to call it a true test, but I haven't had to tear it down yet either. I have played with pouring various mixtures into the tank where it falls to the bottom and is sucked up first, but its not scientific in any way. I might add a "Y" with 2 valves to that I can more easily experiment while having the option to go back to straight diesel to start and end. I will say that I only run it at full blast in my shop. (Technically it's above the factory top speed) Anyway, thanks for doing these tests! I'd like to see the difference filtering the oil makes. That was going to be my next move. I also would love to see higher amounts of oil and gasoline added to the mix. Does the gas offset the issues caused by oil? Is it a temperature issue, or viscosity? So many test, so little time haha. Keep up the great work!
-Dan in Pennsylvania
Thanks for the bit about the fan and temp sensor connector positions! I took mine apart and didn't note which goes where.
I’m not a mechanic, but have some experience with soot build up. The biggest issue with these little heaters is they don’t burn hot enough. The heater would need to burn around 1100 degree Fahrenheit in order to keep the build up from occurring. Even if you could achieve that, you would still have ash build up and would still need to clean out the ash.
Burning at full monty keeps them clean, like the DPF filter burning off soot.
@@charlesduggan2980 I’m not arguing against the point you made. I just don’t believe mixing oil into the fuel is going to be Beneficial, unless you don’t mind cleaning it more often.
@@clintonkirker5154 Most aren't getting the sediments & water out of the used oil, they're just slapping it in there, chunkies & all... If it has been filtered and possibly run through a small centrifuge then you could run a mix of mostly oil with a small amount of gasoline (enough to thin it to the consistency of diesel) in there and the amount of carbon build up would be the same as diesel if not better.
@@clintonkirker5154 what most people do wrong is: They start and end the burn on sjit fuel.
What they should do is start the burner with clean fuel, get it up to max temperature, then switch to the sjit fuel.
Preferably keep it at max temperature.
But you can put it on a bit lower level.
As long as you switch back to clean fuel at the end of your usage. Like say half an hour or so before you want to turn it off, switch it back to clean fuel, get it hot again.....
It will help somewhat. It will not solve the entire problem, obviously. BUT it will make the device work longer without needing to clean it up.
And mr Clinton, i am not arguing your point at all, but normally start up has yellow flame. Causing build up of rubbish.
When it is up to temperature, the flame is blue.
That is a much cleaner burn already.
If you were to only use clean fuel, there is not much build up if you actually take a bit of care. Like having it end on a high temperature burn for 15 minutes or so...... Not on low temperature, low setting.
This is from personal experience with such heaters. But yes, they will always build up soot eventually.
But they are easy enough to take apart and clean.
And who cares if you need to clean it once a year? Using waste oil and such can be a much cheaper way of heating up your house or shed or whatever.
Plus, off grid these things are a great source of heat.
Outstanding vid, So nice to see someone who is willing to go to the next level with these diesel heaters. I am currently waiting for mine to arrive here in the U.K as my c/heating boiler just eats those m3 gas like they were going out of fashion. Looking to install in a weather proof unit outside and just run the hot and cold air feeds through the house.
Love the pup, stay safe and warm...keep those vids coming.
If you are on mains gas I would think gas will still be cheaper than running the diesel heater... Cheapest I can find red diesel and heating oil in small quantities is £1.29/£1.19. So 13/12p per kWh energy in the fuel. Mains gas for me is 10.25p per kWh of energy. If you can get bulk heating oil I think it is around £0.80 per litre...
@@martinwhite3005 Thanks for the reply. I wanted the diesel heater to give background warmth during power cuts when the central heating will not run because of the electric being out. Also my Boiler costs 1m3 an hour to run in current setup which is roughly £1.04. Using the diesel heater at around 2kw I was hoping for at least 4 to 6 hours a liter.
I tried a 50/50 mix. The heater packed in after only burning a couple of gallons. Now have to spend more money on gaskets and glow plug and maybe a sonic cleaner. I think it is better to use the heater on regular deisel. Taking it apart every few weeks is not my idea of fun.
Great video to help me clean mine out. Dean 🇬🇧
exactly my idea... if you end up with 20% wasteoil / diesel mix it is just not worth the hassle of having to clean it out quite often. here i use petroleum c, its less expensive than diesel and works without problems. (in belgium it is a common fuel to run your heater and stove on)
@@tituskoreman1565 hello my friend Dean here from uk. I still haven't fixed the heater after using old oil mix. I bought replacement parts but don't like getting my hands mucky with black oil.
Don't trust everything we watch. These heaters don't work with dirty oil. The lesson has been learned.🤣 Did you try it and break the heater. I did buy 2 of the deisel heaters so might use the new one with clean fuel ⛽. Take care mate. 👍
thanks for filming this sir!
Good tips on heat pump cleaning and small engine carbs! I need one of those ultrasonic cleaners! 😎🤙
john has a good video touching on the soot issue.
taking that intake silencer off, opening up and smoothing out the intake air and manually adjusting the fuel to air ratio. all good points.
word is running it leaner on the fuel when using oils/diesel/kerosene/ gas what ever mix helps.
Great video!
I’ve been running mine on 50/40/10 for 2 years with zero issues and never been disassembled for cleaning. Those percentages are diesel/UMO/acetone, the oil is crudely filtered and the acetone is used and reclaimed from my machine shop. This mixture burns almost identically to 100% diesel and I always run at mid or higher settings and fallow the shutdown burn-off procedure.
I'd say if you want to burn waste oil then get a waste oil burner unless you just like to take apart things and clean them. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative for fuel for these heaters then make bio diesel. I have been installing and repairing diesel air heaters for over 20 years now and I have seen people try to run these heaters on all kinds of fuel but it's just not worth the hassle
Thanks James , waste oil burner would force me to put a vent ( chimney) through my roof. I would just put wood pellet stove for cost savings. This is just a for fun see what’s possible experimentation journey. I don’t mind cleaning it .
Would gasoline be ok ? And would the 22 ml pulse pump be ok for pushing it ? What settings do it use to burn the gas at a optimum level
@@coreybabcock2023 I have seen people use gas with not very good results. Do a search for it
@@Storman77 I have nothing pans out
@@coreybabcock2023 czcams.com/video/rhmx2kQLVbE/video.html
Filtered waste oil + 10 oz. acetone for catalyst per gal. You also need to go into the controller's hidden settings and you can change the air-to-fuel ratio with the pump speed and fan speed and a carbon monoxide meter to find a clean burn under 50 ppm at exhaust. sandblaster is an easy way to clean. I cleaned mine for the first time this year and ran it for 3 years using a 50-gallon drum ya it was way dirtier than yours but ran fine and is out in the garage warming it up for the day. not one replacement part has ever been ordered, longer exhaust tubing was ordered so I could run the tubing through 3-hole bricks to capture even more heat. When you get the fuel-to-air ratio right there will be little that's not burnt in the camber and get that intake outside, cold air is denser and has more oxygen creating a better burn. Lots of people put cold air intakes on their cars that's why. I think any mix will work if you tune the AFR.
Thanks Shane, so this display hasn’t let me get into the hidden menu like others . I have been trying and trying. I have heard these won’t and they can’t be paired with afterburners device which sucks. I am ordering a new one with the ability to do as you mentioned.
What's the air fuel ratio for gasoline
@@coreybabcock2023 for an engine it's 14.7 or abouts but you don't want to run straight gasoline in a diesel heater.
Interesting, what does the acetone do exactly? Better than a gasoline catalyst?
@@livestock9722 It just helps thin out the mix and ignite the mix I don't know about gasoline I am sure it would work just as well.
20% to 25% waste oil would probably work for a while. The problem (most likely) is that the temp of the burn is not hot enough for the waste oil. Normally for homemade waste oil burners the burn temp is incredibly hot.
Thank you.
I love it! Air to fuel! Of your choice!!!
Norm, thanks for the info. I bought a second fuel pump to connect a second tank. I'm going to try starting on straight diesel and when it's hot switch over to oil mix. Then before shut down switch back to straight diesel and see how it does. Thanks for all your thoughts. Jim
Very good idea Jim, it’s really hard to start on waste oil. I was contemplating the very same as you . That’s even on the new mixture I am using Diesel, gas and oil. 60/15/25
@@Storman77 Not a second pump - just a 3-way valve before the pump is what you need.
@@oliver90owner I agree I thought of it afterwards. I am preparing an entire build where I pull heater out and build my own stand 2 tanks 3 way valve etc . Thanks for all your comments I read all of them and great sound advice. It’s helpful to get advice . I can’t do it all but man it helps . So keep them coming pls
@@Storman77 Place the pump as close as practical to the heater to shorten the wait to shut down.
A mine of information.
I calculate the resistance of my 5Kw heater , glow plug is around 1.7 ohms. I would expect a failed plug to go open circuit (i.e.very high resistance). I don't think it would go short circuit. You should also e able to test it by connecting to a 12 v battery.
I live in England where it's illegal to burn waste oil. However, I can get industrial diesel that does not attract fuel duty s it's still a very inexpensive option.
Many thanks for making this video. I will download it for future reference.
I used 50/50 diesel and used engine oil. I t burned well but also stopped working after a few days, the insides were gone dry but the chamber had rock hard, light brown deposits same place as yours. But I used fully synthetic 5/30 oil...gave up with it and use kerosene now, burns really well with no coking up after 50 litres.😉
So what happens if you get the fan and temperature sensor wires switched when putting it back together? Just wont start?
My first heater got more soot than that actually, from diesel use only. My mistake was running it at lowest temp always , not running at full temp for at least 10 minutes before turning it off. 😴 Thank for a good video 🙂
Ps.
Engine cleaner is a easy way to get rid of the soot, just spray on and let it sit , repeat a couple of times if necessarily )
DS.
Your mistake was that your settings on low are to rich . You can run them on low all winter long.
@@pauls466 ok!
Mantikli tam performans ile yanma odasi temizlenir
@@pauls466 how do you change the settings?
@@pauls466 never changed any settings, is that even possible? Have the manual, ,but it dont say.
Been using DAH for years. Most important is to run above 70 power from start to shutdown. Start with a 2K burner and work up. A 2K Burner will heat my 2000 sf barn with no problems. Results in a cleaner burn less soot. At full power I’m burning a quart of blended fuel per hr.
chinese diesel heaters dont always leave the factory correctly tuned in the air/fuel ratio. For heavier fuels, bumping up the air component could make a difference in having less carbon build up.
Been trying it with used oil found it is air to burn ratio see the flame 🔥 color set fan leave it adjust amount of oil being burned! Thanks
For those without an ultrasonic cleaner. You can get carb cleaner or parts cleaner in bulk and will do the job just as well. May just have to soak for a bit longer.
Wash out with petrol or paint thinkers... may help. Flush load in from the exhurst pipe to fill the burn chamber leave soaking for few min and drain petrol / thiners out the exhurst. Repeat few times.
Start up with little petrol to help clean out.
Might be quicker and easier than taking apart.
I've ran on used engine oil. Tried various mixes. Stick to 10% used oil.
It doesn't matter how fast you burn through it 10% mix will still use up your supply of used oil just slower that's all. But it's better than clogging up ya heater.
I use a brass Ball valve to let the used oil in and keep the air at one speed adjustment to oil/ mix to minimum carbon
question, would filtering the waste oil prior to use help clean this up?
like coffee filter or something of that sort?
Commercial-made waster oil burners utilize an atomizing nozzle that mixes "pre-heated" waste oil with compressed air at the very tip of the nozzle. This results in a "mist-like" stream of waste oil. The nozzle is mounted in a larger burner tube, that's about 3" in diameter, which has a stream of low-pressure air blowing through it. The burner assembly is mounted onto a boiler or some type of furnace.
I do think that a certain mixture of motor oil and gasoline would create a fuel with a viscosity similar enough to diesel to burn in one of these little diesel heaters. I have no idea what ratio to begin with, but I'd guess about 20% oil might be a reasonable number to start with. My heater is mounted in our Sprinter van, so I'll never have the chance to experiment with trying alternative fuel mixtures.
Interesting, but there are a lot of things in used motor oil that simply won't burn at normal temperatures. Even without the soot, there is a lot of residue.
You need to start your heater on 100% diesel then change over once it is up to operating temperature. The hard creosote is due to cold temp burning and while not in use your oil is separating to the botton of the tank.
Bio diesel plugged mine up these heaters do not like experimental fuel mixing, unless you like to clean them. I have a unit just like this one, I need to clean mine.
Ran mine last winter on a 60/40 fuel/crankcase oil mix and had a lot of trouble with clinkering in the burner which led to the same poor combustion and tarring of the burner shown here. I'm using the supplied screen filter which is designed to get the big stuff but have determined the cause behind clinkering is impurity. Impurity is why we change out our crankcase oil, right? My next step will be to install a paper element fuel filter as it filters at a finer level than that of a fixed screen due to the random interlocking fibrous nature of the media. Frequent changes might be in order but compare the cost of a gallon of fuel oil to that of a paper element fuel filter, if that filter goes 30-50 gallons oil between cleanings running with crankcase oil, where is the savings? Viscosity. This topic was broached many times in the comments. Atomization goes hand in hand with this. Has anyone given any consideration to pre-heating pure crankcase oil to close to flash temperature just before it enters the burn chamber? Heat it hot enough and it flows like water/fuel oil/diesel. Maybe this is the solution to the puzzle? I'm offering this up for anyone willing to have a go at it. It seems these heaters are the tinkerers dream and are a favorite open source platform of sharing information. I'm certainly going to play around with this after my next awful clean out. I once met a man who had a stationary gasoline engine from a Ford Model T, it was his Grandfathers creation and ran on kerosene. The engine was started on gasoline and once hot a three way valve was turned and the kerosene flowed through a copper tube that was physically wrapped around the exhaust manifold to preheat the fuel (increase the flash point) before combustion. There was no noticeable operation or performance of the engine upon switching. When shutting down the valve was switched over to gasoline again and ran for a few minutes to ensure there was fresh gasoline for the next cold start. Just something to consider, I bet we can run these things full blast, full heat on pure crankcase oil successfully, we just need the right combination.
I’ve heard that if you’re burning waste oil you need to run it on hotter settings and you should run it on diesel only for a bit before shutdown
I cut a slot in a cheap deep socket to use as a glow pin removal tool
Mine's ran two winters on a mixture of 50% filtered waste oil to 50% diesel and I've never had problems yet..
Do you run on alpine mode?
That stuff in the end of the burner tube is like concrete and the bad part is thier is a steel mesh donut behind the cog looking wheel in the center back of the burner and that concrete get's embedded in that and in the process of trying to get the concrete out I wrecked a burner tube by accidently tearing out the steel mesh donut in behind that I believe comes in contact with the atomizer screen.
I have seen 30% e85 to waste oil and make sure it is filtered. Also start it on diesel, then switch over to the waste oil e85 mix.
What is the sound level when the device is operating? It does appear to be quite loud.
Dougie Inggs here in south Africa what about desoving polystyrene in the diesel it may give it a higher burn value?
Lube oil always contains suspended solids for viscosity control etc, suspended solids with added soot after use don't burn well. These heaters work fine on kerosene or diesel but not on waste oil (inc mix). you'd have do redesign the burner completely to get a clean burn with waste oil.
I run my heater on 10 parts diesel and 1 part old engine oil and I'm getting temperatures up to 240°c on the display. Not sure what the actual temp is from vent but it's hot !!!
Have you though of kerosene/ jet fuel and used oil , a y piece from two tanks and turn the used oil off on start up and five minutes before shut down also a copper brake line wrapped around the exhaust to heat the used oil up
Adding 10% petrol wil lower the flashpoint of the mix, meaning it will ignite at a lower temperature. The burning temperature will probably not be much different possibly even lower. To reduce soot with burning this oil/diesel mix, the temp in the burn chamber needs to be higher and this burn chamber is likely not built for that. The other option is to reduce the percentage of oil.
I soaked mine and used a gas pressure washer for the cast section.
I used no2 whereno 1 was needed, not good, so 4oz gas per gallon worked w very lill problems. In a Monitor 442,,,like toyo stove...not what u have(I now have one yet to use) but wanted to share that info
If you think a mix of diesel and gasoline or kerosene will burn hotter, perhaps once a week or once a month run it on full blast for a couple of hours? Would be a good test, take it apart after a hot burn after a month of 60/40 use.
Can you modify this to put one of those torches inside th unite to clea it once in awhile turn it on?
What about filtering the used oil before using it?
You can't run it on low. You have to be fully open, running on high to keep it from building up like that. I know of some people who run straight used oils of all kinds and run them on wide open so they don't build up like that.
Waste oil isn't necessarily the issue, I've had to clean my Webasto airtop that i ran on clean old stock motor oil mixed with white spirit, and it looked exactly the same as yours did, simply down to the viscosity of the fuel i think. The thinner you get it the easier it is to vaporise and get a complete burn. Some sort of CO or AFR gauge would be pretty handy to tune the burner with...or if you can get the burner to run outside the heat exchanger and tune it by eye.
I so wish this unit had the ability to tune. This is the new display with no menu to adjust. I agree with you 100%
@@Storman77 there is a secret menu, you type a special code when entering the pin code. There you can adjust the fuel/air ratio
@@Fuck9oogleAskMe can’t find on these new types
With the unit OFF, hold the power and ok button I believe. It will bring up a 3 digit menu. I've yet to get past that.
@@lvhimvl oh thanks . Shall try and crack that
Use air in the port as you light the inside with the torch. Also instead or gas in your mix use 95% isopropyl.
Have you tried running it on Alpine mode? I think it weakens the mixture on the assumption that the air is less dense. Mine smoked and clogged up after 2 weeks of running in normal mode, I now run Alpine mode and it's perfect.
I do run alpine mode when running waste oil
I wonder what would happen if mixed the diesel with gas two stroke oil instead of pure oil? Awesome video! Waste cooking oil might work but smell like fish and chips maybe 🤔
Using 2-stroke oil is a waste of 2-stroke oil as non detergent 30 wt crankcase oil was 2-stroke oil before the marketing people came up with a great new idea. Vegetable oils have a lower BTU value than petroleum equivalent and will give you more bench time cleaning than heating.
Are you starting it on this oil mix??
Hey Norm, what size/capacity is your ultrasonic cleaner, and what are you using in it for solution? Thanks.
Oh god sorry not at home but check my cleaning video the information on cleaner is there and should be a model number. 5 litre is what comes to mind
Hi there, I didn't see what how you removed the little gauze piece that goes over the end of the glow plug ? Was it easy to get out ??
thanks Peter
Use a small pick or a drill bit of snug fit and slowly prying it out .
grab a screw and thread it in a couple turns and slide it out.
@@shaner.5 Thanks very much Shane
Have you tried old oil and 10% white spirit
I think it burns hotter and cleaner due to the fact that it thins the oil
put some injector or cat cleaner in the mixture... or add some paint thinners to the mixture, that will work too.
Been burning synthetic oil in the mixture?
Be interesting to see how the new mixture goes. Does your controller allow changes to fan speed and pump rate? Think it will be difficult to dial in without.
My controller doesn’t only the 6 levels each have a prefix pump rate .
@@Storman77 Do you know if newer ones do? Got a WIPPRO on the way and the controller looks like theVEVO and many others... this comment a year old.
Thank you for such a great video on how to strip this down and clean..
Did you alter the burn mixture settings on the controller? I think it will be a good idea to run on pure diesel/kerosene on start up and shutdown.
keep up the great work..
Damn it... links are not being posted...
Search for
New Blue Chinese Diesel Heater Controller Functions - A quick guide
Channel is:
Van Life Uk A Complete Survivors Guide
Just curious if automatic transmission fluid would help clean while mixed in the fuel I know it does a great job cleaning dirty injectors in an engine might help on this not sure
Atf oil often contains a lot of Sulphur and can make a real mess. Also it is a bad cleaner anyway
@@tullgutten what about hydraulic oil
Best thing to do is start and stop on diesel fuel. A lot of alternative trucks do this to keep carbon build up low. You could simply plumb a Y and set them up so you turn the switch. It also helps with cold starts. A lot of carbon is created then.
I would filter waaste oil and dilute at 20% with gasoline. Do a long term test with that.
It would be interesting if running a clean high heat fuel would self clean the burner.
Every litre of petrol has excise duty on it, as well as VAT @20%. Likely more economical to dilute with more kerosene.
If you run on shitty oil. Dont mix more then 50%
Run it on high effect
Dont start or stop with the mixture, start and stop on pure diesel
Go into "secret" settings and reduce the fuel ratio since heavier oil burns longer
Apparently there is a small fuel strainer where fuel pipe screws into to burner,might be blocked ,saw it on another vid😉
Oh yes the atomizing screen. Gotta clean that out when cleaning burner tube real important
Soak in mineral spirits overnight to get all the carbon deposits off. Easy off oven cleaner also works great.
The metric size is millimetres NOT mils. 4mil is 4 x1000th of an inch. This may be pedantry but I am a mechanical engineer so getting the units right is kind of important.
The big thing I see with using gas instead of diesel is gas burns much faster and you'll have much higher burn chamber pressures. And if it does "come apart" your fuel supply is right on top of a then open flame.
Good point, but have seen people use much higher concentration with no issue and that case won’t blow apart . The exhaust is open all the time , but to your point what if it plugs up. 2 things one it has a built in safety no air flow it shuts down and 2 if it blows up and it’s plugged believe me that exhaust and even the intake will vent the pressure. I have seen the unit so funny start ups and it blows off either way . I am hoping you are wrong lol thanks for input .
@@Storman77 I'm tut adventure type too so i can't I wouldn't try haha. I think i would relocate the fuel tank for said experiment. But I'll enjoy watching that video to find out the results.
Have you tried Black Diesel, 80% used motor oil and 20% gasoline (or some other spirit to thin it down. Run it at higher temperatures especially just prior to shut off.
Yes I have . Now running higher mixture
You might need an oil centrifuge and maybe some magnets in a screen filter.
You need to run it hotter with the waste oil to keep it clean inside. I'm guessing you ran it on low settings.
Medium was lowest setting yes for sure too low
I see in the comments that you can't adjust the injector duty cycle, but what about forcing more air in with the fixed duty cycles? Does the fan speed respond to changes in supply voltage? I don't recall what you're using for a supply, but that may be one easy avenue of getting more air per injector pulse. After that, I'm envisioning a 3d printed adapter on the intake, mounting a PC case fan style fan forcing air into the intake.
Thinking even further, since both blowers are turned from the same motor, motivating more air through the heat output's path should make both spin faster and seems like the larger ducting would be easier to work with adapting fans to move an appreciable amount of air.
@@jimcoleman52 The fan speed is controlled by the motherboard, not the voltage. It’s why they have a magnet (or two) embedded in the fan as a speed sensor.
@@oliver90owner the motherboard doesn't out a pulse width modulated version of the input? I don't have one yet to put a scope on to see.
@@jimcoleman52 Jim, you may well find that the motherboard actually runs on a lower, regulated voltage than the battery supply. Adding any uncontrolled boost fan would not be in the best interests of control. The amount of air, at any particular fan speed, is certainly reliant on the air ducting - it is why the better air heater suppliers (Webasto and Eberspacher) provide far more information/installation instructions regarding enlarged ducting sizes, dependent on the extended distance to heat delivery.
Some of the older/better controllers provide the opportunity to change both fan speed and fuel pump pulse rate curves independently so that complete combustion, without too much excess air, can be selected.
These cheap CDHs (‘parking’ heaters) are only marketed for use in non-domestic situations where the ducting should be maintained within the limits of the suppled instructions.
I’m wondering what a 15% oil with 10% gas and then thin the rest with diesel would do.
Probably be fine
What is the capacity on your cleaner please good video
6L capacity
Magic trick 😁 word I'm trying is ven,,,, on the air put also
Run it on cooking oil 👍🏼
Looks like the mixture is just a tad too rich to be running waste oil.
Or perhaps the thing runs too cool to burn it all completely.
seems like you should limit the flow of the motor oil so it has time to burn.
Why didn't you show the burn tube after cleaning or is it a other one
No it’s the same one. I had to look at video again I was sure I had a video on that. Might be one part I lost . I lost footage while uploading to video editor tool. It came out pretty clean . Very sorry about that miss
Have you tried to water down the diesel with h20 since the pump only pumps what it can
You mean burning it through to clean the burner while operating?
@@Storman77No I mean water down the diesel with water 😂 I'm interested to know if it works
@@Storman77 blend water and oil and mix with diesel
I would try to ad more air
I was told if you burn waste oil you must run these heaters on high otherwise they plug up .
Did you remove the burner screen? It’s the small cylindrical insert in the glow pin recess. Most important! Inside the glow pin chamber, obscured by the screen insert, there is an air inlet, maybe a ⅛ th inch in diameter. Get a right angle pick and clean the inlet hole completely.
Yup did the atomizer screen and the air hole
I missed the intake port the first time I tore mine down. Smoky starts!
30:43 That is a Cute Puppy . my goodness
Lol yes she is. Shop guard dog but golden labs too nice probably gonna get German Shepard to guard her lmao
plz try heating the fuel before burn. coil a brake line around the exhaust for a fuelline
I tried this but its tricky since from what ive read on the WMO burning sites is you dont want to go over 150F before the burn chamber, the oil will coke more for some reason.
@@keaton8521 i think this is because its motoroil and not vegetableoil. motoroil is made for use around 90c and have anti burn agents etc.
I think it is a big ask of any engine to use waste oil as a fuel but then also complain it needs maintenance more often. If you want to go cheap accept some compromises.
Will it burn straight gasoline?
Yes but not very well. Mix it with vegetable oil
I have been in need and tried out a bunch of stuff to get free fuel burned to get my house heated.
I have ALWAYS ended up in your situation.
What i ended up doing was buying a siphon injector fuel burner and a small pressure powered centrifuge.
Even with the "siphon burner" i got some issues once a month, but with the centrifuge I just had to check up on it after 8 months. No problem still.
Ogh god. Do not stick your finger into a ultrasonic bath. It breaks the bones inside your finger.
Hi, can you link me to that centrifuge that you bought, i wanna check it out. thx
@@triplex0076 And they are expensive, but the work they do versus your problems it's dirt cheap.
Also they don't cost 7000$
Funny. comments won't accept URL adresses, so that is what you get :D Just remove the obvious punctuation
@@LostDeadSoul looks like in comments it won’t work, or did you forget to post it?
that number is the number that you need to search for in @2¤¤&%&#¤&¤"&¤"ebay@2¤¤&%&#¤&¤"&¤"
It would appear that your running to rich as in the fuel mixture is way to dense for the jet so smaller jet or lower the pulse rate by at least 50%
There is no jet in this fuel system.
Did you filter the waiste oil first?
Not the first tanks , I now filter and I have abandoned that waste oil I have because of contamination. I want waste oil only filtered.
TIP: I had this pollution twice. the cause is not the diesel or oil, but switching off of the power!! . the heater MUST shut itself off and at the end it uses the glow plug to burn all the fuel. since I let the heater turn itself off I haven't had a single problem. regards Frank
So I think the problem is in the design to why they don't burn oil well. Problem is all the ash and contamination in the oil. Oil contains metals and other material that won't burn. These heaters combust fuel in a mesh and leave the contamination behind. Real waste oil heaters will mist and ignite fuel in the air and let the particles collect in exchanger and not the burner. In stock configuration I don't think it is possible. I think the only possible way is to redesign the burner and mist the fuel. Also feed rate for fuel would need to be very high. Diesel ignition temp is low 100s but waste oil is high 400s. Need to retain more heat in the burn chamber.
This⬆️
You should look up John McK channel he does a great job on explaining all about these heaters
Why not add a little HHO to the air intake to burn whatever you want much cleaner and prevent all this build up?
That fuel tubing doesn’t help the combustion process at all. Rigid nylon is the way to go. The simple answer is to go the the Espar website, and duplicate the installation for the D4 Espar heater. Switch the fuel tubing to the correct ID rigid nylon, probably the filter, too, and maybe buy the Espar inlet screen. That will help optimize the fuel delivery process.
The fuel tubing makes not a jot of difference.
Not what people are reporting. That soft hose fails. It also has too great of an I.D to optimize fuel delivery.
@@wallacegrommet9343 You are joking, of course? There are lots of ‘know nothings’ out there that report all sorts of things and are believed by all sorts of people (like yourself). Mostly pedalled by those that don’t actually think for themselves.
The diameter and stroke of the pump determines the volume per pulse. The number of pulses determines the volume pumped. The pulse rate of the pump (Hz) determines the feed rate of the fuel. The fuel line material is suitable for diesel (but not necessarily for the concoctions that some may feed through it). The fuel line is there simply as a means of transporting the fuel from the pump to the burner. As long as there are no large bubbles along that pipe, there will be no problem. A couple centimetre long bubble is of little consequence in a 4mm diameter tube - that would be about two seconds at full output - is easily accommodated by the machine and would make no difference to the total fuel delivered.
Do think for yourself, instead of perpetuating myths about these machines. They are basically a simple device for burning a steady stream of diesel oil as effectively as possible for the size and price.
People are reporting they have 8kW versions of this cheap chinese diesel heater. No doubt you believe them, too (or are actually one of them?), but those of us that think (and check) for ourselves are not blinded by the inaccurate internet hype/claims and know, full well, that these particular claims (reports) are simply untrue. 8kW cheap CDHs do not exist. Full stop.
Try 10 percent kerosene and 90 percent diesel for weather below freezing...This keeps the diesel from gelling up in the cold 🥶 REMEMBER always run your diesel heater on high every once a while to burn out that carbon. Cause, it's better than breaking down in the cold ?
This vid should be called Why you shouldn’t use anything other than diesel in a diesel heater,
When you factor in the faffing about filtering old oil and mixing it then the extra mess from black oil it’s just not worth it, I ran 2 tanks of filtered old oil , diesel mix thru my old 5 series bmw, it loves the stuff and ram faultlessly but when I inspected the inlet it had significantly more ‘wet’ build up