Very nice. The only thing I would have done different is make the outer link plates from 2" angle. This way you could just drill holes to mount the track shoes making them more easily built and replaceable. I will be starting my own track conversion hopefully here soon,
really like how your track design works! looking into building track for my ol cub.. if you get a chance could you give the dimensions an offset to the links you had made? thankyou
The holes are offset 1/8", half of that would have been adequate. the plates are 1.5" x 4" with 3/4" radiused ends. Holes are 3/8" inchPins are 3/4" grade 8 bolts, rollers are 3/8 x 3/4" DOM tubing 1" long
Yes, you’re not getting off that easy, I’ll be watching! Nice work! What design software are you using, I hope Fusion 360? I will subscribe! Again really a very detailed job, wish I picked up on speed reading though, to lazy to pause! You ever notice when you hit pause the play button ends up in front of why you paused? Don’t figure?
Actually, my design software was 3DS max. most of it was for simple visualization. A lot of dimensions had to be adjusted during the build.The sprocket dimensions were set up in autocad by a gent I used to work with. Sorry about the text speed, I will make an effort in the future to slow it down.
You should certainly have used steel bushings, or at least bigger bolts in between the drive-rails. Personally, I would have welded some steel shield-stock around the bolts to beef them up a bit where the sprocket makes contact.
The bushings are DOM steel tubing. The bolts are grade 8 and have more than enough strength for the job. I left lots of room to allow for wear. . the 3/8 bolts can be drilled out to half inch, and new bushings made to fit. The sprockets have lots of meat to go to a 3/4" OD bushing if required. As is, the sprockets are sized to fit standard double npitch attachment chain if needed.
After only a couple of hours the paint on the grousers and pads is pretty much gone. Its tremclad royal blue, easy to find and easy to respray to touch it \up
@@chopperhedduck Hey i've just got an info, even on military tanks the tracks are painted and it wears off. Good thing is, as soon as the tracks are used again, friction with ground wipes the rust off from it.Thanks by the way
Thanks, Luckily, the laser cutting was free. One of our suppliers at work did it for nothing, since we put several million dollars through his shop a year. He did the bending on the blade for me too. Yes my welder is deficient, despite all my hacks. I have an SA 200 Lincoln, but its ancient, needs work, and is not here right now. Working on a TIG setup too.
Actually it weighs about 2000 lbs. It's actual ground pressure is about 2 pounds per square inch. The donor tractor was about 800 pounds before I started. I'm thinking of adding a few more hundred pounds of weight below the frame
Cool tracks, Going to be checking out your other videos. Thanks for sharing.
Very good...
Very nice. The only thing I would have done different is make the outer link plates from 2" angle. This way you could just drill holes to mount the track shoes making them more easily built and replaceable. I will be starting my own track conversion hopefully here soon,
Thanks If I ever build another on I will do that. I can't wait to see how yours comes out
But only problem is the 2 angle is so thin it will bend
how are your homemade chain/tracks holding up? what wears the most, have you made any changes to the chain/bolts/tracks?
+Brandon Lusink He's not even done yet I don't think
cool project
thanks
really like how your track design works! looking into building track for my ol cub.. if you get a chance could you give the dimensions an offset to the links you had made? thankyou
The holes are offset 1/8", half of that would have been adequate. the plates are 1.5" x 4" with 3/4" radiused ends. Holes are 3/8" inchPins are 3/4" grade 8 bolts, rollers are 3/8 x 3/4" DOM tubing 1" long
Correction , track pins are 3/8" grade 8 bolts cut to length with nylon locknuts
Yes, you’re not getting off that easy, I’ll be watching! Nice work! What design software are you using, I hope Fusion 360? I will subscribe! Again really a very detailed job, wish I picked up on speed reading though, to lazy to pause! You ever notice when you hit pause the play button ends up in front of why you paused?
Don’t figure?
Actually, my design software was 3DS max. most of it was for simple visualization. A lot of dimensions had to be adjusted during the build.The sprocket dimensions were set up in autocad by a gent I used to work with. Sorry about the text speed, I will make an effort in the future to slow it down.
You should certainly have used steel bushings, or at least bigger bolts in between the drive-rails. Personally, I would have welded some steel shield-stock around the bolts to beef them up a bit where the sprocket makes contact.
The bushings are DOM steel tubing. The bolts are grade 8 and have more than enough strength for the job. I left lots of room to allow for wear. . the 3/8 bolts can be drilled out to half inch, and new bushings made to fit. The sprockets have lots of meat to go to a 3/4" OD bushing if required. As is, the sprockets are sized to fit standard double npitch attachment chain if needed.
@@chopperhedduck Good stuff. Sounds like you've got all your ducks in a row.
I like to think I do. Thanks for watching
You painted the tracks to prevent rust right? Will it holds and not tears up during operation?
After only a couple of hours the paint on the grousers and pads is pretty much gone. Its tremclad royal blue, easy to find and easy to respray to touch it \up
@@chopperhedduck Hey i've just got an info, even on military tanks the tracks are painted and it wears off. Good thing is, as soon as the tracks are used again, friction with ground wipes the rust off from it.Thanks by the way
yes the contact surfaces polish quite quickly
thought the front hydraulics are from Princess
everything other than the factory hydro transaxle and power steering pump is from Princess Auto.
Too bad you don't have a better welder. Bet all that laser cutting was expensive. Good design though.
Thanks, Luckily, the laser cutting was free. One of our suppliers at work did it for nothing, since we put several million dollars through his shop a year. He did the bending on the blade for me too. Yes my welder is deficient, despite all my hacks. I have an SA 200 Lincoln, but its ancient, needs work, and is not here right now. Working on a TIG setup too.
No time to read the text and look at the images.
Slow it right down.
looks too heavy
Actually it weighs about 2000 lbs. It's actual ground pressure is about 2 pounds per square inch. The donor tractor was about 800 pounds before I started. I'm thinking of adding a few more hundred pounds of weight below the frame
sound track horrible.
It's a free one from Google.