Generac Generator Won't Start
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- čas přidán 10. 04. 2024
- This is a 5000 watt Generac made in 1999 powered by a Tecumseh HM100 engine. The owner gave this one away after the engine lost compression and would no longer run. It appears to be in good shape. It was well taken care of. Will it run again? Lets find out.
Generator Model: 01140-1
Engine Model: HM100-19386R
DOM: 9343 (1999)
I no longer use Harbor Freight Super Heavy Duty Degreaser in my ultrasonic cleaner. Harbor Freight changed the recipe. The bottle previously stated "NON-CORROSIVE". Now it says "CORROSIVE", "do not user on Aluminum". It now damages most carburetors. Recently I have been using Simple Green PRO HD with good results.
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#generac #tecumseh #GeneratorRepair #Generator #SmallEngineRepair #SmallEngine #DIY #Fixed #Troubleshooting #HowTo #loadtesting
01140, 01140-1, Alternator, Decarbon, Exhaust Valve, Feeler Gauge, Fixed, Flat Head, Fuel Tank Bushing, Generac, Generator, HM100, HM100-19386R, Hertz, High Leak Down, How To, How-To, L-Head, Lap Valves, Leak Down, Leak-Down, Leakdown Test, Load Test, Low Compression, Mightvac, Old Fuel, Repair, Small Engine, Surging, THD, Tecumseh, Total Harmonic Distortion, Troubleshooting, Valve Clearance, Valve Grinding, Will Not Start, Won't Start - Jak na to + styl
I just subscribed! Maybe we’ll meet up in Ken’s live stream one of these Saturdays! I love your videos! Your inspirational! 😊
Thanks! Love your videos. Just discovered your channel a couple weeks ago when I was working on a Shihl 028 and watched the replay of Ken’s live steam. I also use an iPhone to record my videos. Have tried various cameras and so far nothing beats the iPhone for video quality. Sound though has been a challenge.
*you're
I have watched one of your videos too. 🙂
James I just completed a cam replacement because of a broken decompression mechanism on a Briggs and Stratton 18.5 HP Intek engine cam. It was my Widowed Neighbor's Snapper rider. I promised my friend before he died of Pancreatic Cancer that I would watch after his widow. I have kept that promise so far. I did this for her at only the cost of the cam Kit. I also had the confidence to do so after watching so many of your diagnoses on so many engines. I am 69 years old and did not hesitate to take on the repair because you gave me the confidence to do so.. I thank you and I am keeping a promise to a dear friend who meant a lot to me... I always thought that paying it forward was a worthy cause.
Sir God bless you for keeping your word to your friend. Thats very honorable. If everyone had the same values as you its my opinion the world would have almost no issues. Not that you did it for this reason, but I firmly believe that your help and dedication to keeping your word will pay back many fold. Take care my friend and God bless ya. You definitely sound like one of the good ones.
I like how he hangs a bottle of fuel on a pole like it’s an IV drip.
Umm…yeah, because thats what you do.
If you buy a generator or any small engine machine from James you know your getting a product that has been gone thru with a fine tooth comb.
James,as an Australian 🇦🇺 with all due respect I laughed to myself when you said 11-64th I was born 1943 so my schooling was done in imperial measurements,i worked in the building trade all my life,then we went metric,WELL can you imagine plans with duplication numbers imperial conversion to metric when building materials stayed imperial,long story short when I tried to convert 11-64th to metric i got lost,all the best from Perth W.A.👌👌👌👌👌
As a Welshman, I too, am in the same boat as you! The changeover to metric, as an Engineer, was painful but so worth it in the end! 👌 🏴🏴🏴
and that’s why the US still uses imperial units. The changeover in the trade and some manufacturing industries would have been……. hard and costly. Rather than change the units used, we just changed the standard on which those units were based. Our imperial units are based on metric equivalents. So we are technically a fully metricated country. We just like to lie to ourselves and say we aren’t.
@@stellamcwick8455 Where in the US? Not industry, all metric, and has been for awhile. I was CNC machining scroll compressors in '06 for Trane, all metric tolerances.
@@seymoarsalvage building trades still use imperial nomenclature for lumber and building materials. Electrical trades still use Imperial nomenclature for cabling, terminal screws, conduit, boxes and fittings. Plumbing still use imperial nomenclature for nearly all its products.
As far as industry goes, it depends on the industry. There are still many manufacturers manufacturing products using imperial nomenclature but just converting those measurements to metric equivalents.
It’s important to to remember that even though we’ve reached full metrication in our sciences, engineering and any manufacturing that has an international influence (of which Trane might be one), Domestically, imperial nomenclature it is still heavily used.
I’ve been an electrical and mechanical engineer for 30 years and it’s still a mixed bag that depends on where the product ends up.
4.365 mm. Just ask Google...
A easy way to get the tank grommet out is to find a metal automotive body clip/panel removal tool and grind the slot just wide enough to slip over the small part of the grommet. makes it easy to remove them with out damaging the tank.
I miss the old flat head Briggs and Tecumseh engines. Back in the 70's when we all had go karts and mini bikes before everything was outlawed. That was my first intro into powered mobility, and I was HOOKED by the feeling of an engine's pull! Yep, fun times. I learned to rebuild those engines by 14.
Amazing.... I had the same issue on an old snow blower many years ago. Everyone thought I was nuts for buying it. I pulled the engine and took it to my basement for a look-see. I ground the valve stem until I had the proper cleanse, reassembled it, put it back in the snow blower and bingo I had a running machine. 😊
Love the fact that you use a mix of old and new tools to get jobs done! I still have and use my 70 year old Craftsmen socket set I purchased as a boy. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Another absolutely amazing classic Tecumseh engine for Mr condon to get up and running again
Love that you are back to having the torque specs back on screen. I don't know why I like that I just do.
I thought of you. They were not there until one of the last edits of the video.
I do mechanical work for my friends and they have a complaint that I clean things too much! I'm very glad to meet you! I enjoy your videos very much, Mike
I had that complaint from customers. ( too much cleaning) I would tell them, I may find something else that needs fixing as well.
James I just bought a Coleman 5000 watt with this very engine on Facebook for $75 and it’s runnning. So I’m so grateful for this video as a guide when the time arises. Really nice job going over the process and procedures so even a newbie like me has a chance of not screwing up. Explaining the paper towel plugs, the importance of washing all lapping compound etc, really good info for us without experience.
Thanks, I approach it.
There is a wonderful time of year, and it's when we exit Daylight saving time and James enters it. Ahhh 9pm video release.
I'm surprised you don't have a small blasting cabinet to make quick work on those rusty tins and other parts. I have one and it is really handy. Nice job Jim!
Very meticulous and I appreciate that. I have been a mechanic for over 50 years, professionally for about 30 years, retired now but still tinker. If we do it right the first time chances are we don't have to do it twice. Great videos
Thanks
Long video but I appreciate being able to watch the whole process. I just don't understand the process of how and why the bottom of the valve gets to the point that you have to grind it. Thanks for the video and instruction.
I believe the valve seat wears down, which lets the valve sit deeper, reducing the lash.
The head of the valve slams down into the valve seat...which is the block material.
Over time without the lead that used to be in fuel to cushion the valve....it smashes the block material out of the way so the valve actually drops down....
thus the valve clearance tightens up...
and the valve stays open...
as the gap is tooo small......
no compression...
and the engine won't start or run....
Grinding down the valve stem opens up the clearance...cancelling the effect of the recession of the valve seat into the block....
Another "short" video. I guess I'll watch it AFTER work. :(
Look forward to it.
I use a 1" wood chisel to remove gasket material. The handle gives good control over pressure and angle. I also keep the chisel very sharp by honing on 1200 W/D paper & oil on a glass plate to maintain a fine edge.
I prefer a putty knife. It's too easy to damage an aluminum surface with a really sharp edged chisel.
I have a Tecumseh hmsk80 engine on my snow blower. This engine on this generator is very similar to the hmsk80 except it's a 10 horsepower engine and the hmsk80 is an 8 horsepower. I know from experience that Tecumseh engines can be difficult to work on, especially the valves because leaking is common. The thing is that I love the challenge. Keep up the good work. 😊👍🏿
Thanks
I just bought one of those small impact guns. Amazing time saved when stripping engines.
To be safe with the valve clearance , take the piston just past TDC. For instance BS say 1/4” past TDC. Also, be sure to clear any junk out of the head bolt drillings. In an extreme case the bolt can compress any liquid or solid junk and burst a casting.
He did blow out the bolt holes. It's easy to miss something like that. A good reminder none the less. 😊
I haven't finished the video yet, but just wanted to drop a thank you comment, I recently got a 2kw inverter generator that was hunting on eco idle, was able to get the idle jet out, cleaned, and re assembled the gen and fired it up to a smooth idle.
Thanks for the journey.
Haven’t watched yet but I know these Tecumseh’s like to fight you James 😂
It is interesting that the exhaust valve length changed by 0.012". You might want to consider getting a V-block and clamping it to your belt sander to help keep the valve square to the belt.
Yes, was looking to get one but could not source one fast enough.
Great save as always, James.
Your posts help many of us that still DYI our equipment.
Tks Michael and keep posting.
Good stuff James as always. One objective way to measure if you're "helping someone" is the fact that, as you presented the issues at the start of the video, I began recalling what you did when units had similar issues in past videos. I'm sure I'm not the only one learning/benefiting as you work through each problem. Thanks again. God bless.
Most of the Tecumseh engines I have come across are typically on snow blowers. I mean, I have had my share of Tecumsehs on lawnmowers as well. Most snow blowers now use some kind of Honda clone, whether it be LCT or PowerMore (with the majority being MTD, Husqvarna or Ariens) and then there are a few Hondas dotted throughout. There are some Briggs powered snow blowers but not many anymore. Lawn mowers are typically again some kind of Honda or its clone variant with some exceptions and Briggs EX engines...an engine that to me looks like it was made to a price point for pure profit and thus cheap and nasty, typically what you see from Briggs. Most of the generators I see around here typically are Champion or Honda, although others are around and are sold in stores...I don't know who makes Energizer but I see those in stores as well.
Another great video James. Thanks for making these. They always help me.
You have another “nature of the beast engine”!!! I quoted you on that before I watched the video.
LOL, I GET EXCITED WHEN YOURE WORKING ON EQUIPMENT I OWN LOL
Love watching the ultrasonic! 👍😊
Amazing the amount of generators you come across.
Another well presented video by James Condon.Thank you.
OK, you got me. As you were cleaning the head for reassembly I thought you were not going to lap the valve seats. Great vid, as always.
Well done James 👍
Great tip about the governor linkage spring, I’ll have to remember that one!
Glad to see that this Tecumseh DIDN'T give you trouble. Cheers!
Ee by 'eck, another jim fix to feast on. Cheers buddy, watched it as soon as I got home from work. Thursdays just wouldn't be the same without you😊
Love watching you tinker brother! You have some great knowledge.
Another great video James!
Thank you so much.
Good morning James, It is amazing to watch how much your channel has grown. Almost 4,000 views in 2 hours and the counter just keeps going up as I watch. Keep up the good work and thank you for entertaining us.
Amazing Vid, thanks James - love the precision
Super nice rebuild! I'm always happy to see good equipment renovated. Nice tip about the anti-surge spring. And, yes, I, also, would have renovated the rusty top cover. Thank-you!
Great job James you get it right all the time.
That's a really nice unit! Great idea adding that anti surge spring to the carb! I've worked on a ton of Tecumsehs and yeah, most of them never seem to settle out smoothly unloaded. That's a great running engine.
Great job as always. You’re very thorough. Great small engine mechanic keep up the great work.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Nice job, liked the valve job and adding the spring.
Nice one James!
I'm wondering if someone didn't try replacing the exhaust valve because of some issue but didn't realise that the stem needs to be trimmed to the correct length and after the valve replacement they just gave up. Viewed from the side, the intake valve looked slightly lopsided but I expect that was just the camera angle since it's obviously working just fine. (EDIT: I read some of your replies below and learned about valve seat wear. That's interesting to me.)
My own generator saga (thanks, James, for giving me the confidence to even attempt it) is at least looking hopeful.
I fitted a new carb and a new fuel petcock and the generator is now running and I'm getting power out of it, but the pilot light refuses to light up which might indicate (hah) a problem with the voltage regulation and the engine is a bit reluctant to start up and needs a few seconds running on choke before it can be turned off, otherwise the engine dies.
The voltage seemed to be a bit low and so, without having anything to check the frequency with, I just tried adjusting the speed which brought the voltage up but I'm going to have to wait for a way to check the frequency and get that adjusted correctly. ATM what I'm thinking is that I could add a microphone to a hand held oscilloscope and adjust the engine speed to 3000rpm (50Hz line frequency on this side of the world) using that.
Alternatively, I may be able to use the DC output since that should be pulsating 12V DC at either 100Hz or 6000Hz.
My aim is to eventually sell this generator for enough money to at least cover the cost of the repairs.
Any advice would be welcome, especially about the speed regulation and the reluctance to start or to come off of choke.
Also the are some apps for the phone that can listen to the engine and estimate the RPM. I have not personally tried it, but it should be possible.
just love to see James's Critter abatemenmt measures in action witht he rusted coverplate....
I have a older open frame generator. I have to leave it on "choke" for about a minute or two to allow for the old engine and carb to start controlling the engine properly. After that,things are fine!
nice work james
Very nice fix James 😊
Great video James!!
I know you added the anti-surge spring, and that solved the problem. But Tecumseh does have a light coil spring around the throttle shaft that takes the free play out of the throttle linkage. Essentially the same thing. I love those old Tecumseh's. Thanks James.
Good point!
I have seen James add those anti surge springs to the linkage many times before. I remember the first time he did it. It always works so if there is a light coil spring around the throttle shaft then its effectiveness must diminish with age. Other manufacturers use the anti surge spring and these seem to keep their effectiveness for many years. The anti surge springs can become degraded but only after many years of use.
All the flat heads don’t seem to run as well as the newer overhead valve engines. They are also louder, not sure if it’s the larger muffler on the newer units? It maybe inherit in the flat head design also. Nice save!
You should weld a small piece of angle iron to the new belt grinder to keep the valve tru.
Another Tecumseh, another tight exhaust valve. :) Thinking step 1 on these engines may become check valve adjustment even before checking the carb!
The head of the valve slams down into the valve seat...steel valve insert but aluminium block material.
Over time without the lead that used to be in fuel to cushion the valve....it smashes the block material out of the way so the valve seat actually drops down....
thus the valve clearance tightens up...
and the valve stays open...
as the gap is too small......
no compression...
and the engine won't start or run....
Grinding down the valve stem opens up the clearance...cancelling the effect of the recession of the valve seat into the block....
Nice going, James
Great job, once again.
Repair work A+, Generator quality C+ max. Video 10/10 👍
Another great informative and interesting video on a valve adjust for a Tecumseh engine ,to bad they didn't use adjustable lifters
Kept saying stop on that exhaust bolt,for a moment tought it would have stripped ,easy one today James,looking forward to the next one
Hi James. Thanks for producing an informative and helpful video. I think my comment might interest you. After having a mess when changing oil, I found a better, less messy way. I purchased a small vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. I took a one-gallon glass jar with a metal lid and attached two threaded barb fittings. I next attached two flexible hoses to the barbs. I connected one to the vacuum pump and the second much longer hose into the oil filler tube whenever I did an oil change.
Tecumsas rely on those plastic insert bushings to take up governor link slop, but you're correct in adding the spring. It's just good insurance.
Best part of these videos is fast forward filling the gas bottles and oil drain pans. You’re a great editor, my friend.
It's funny, whenever I see the bottles of gas getting close to being full.....I always worry that it is going to spill over the top.
THANKS for another nice video.
James... I drill a small block of wood the diameter of the valve stem and clamp it to the grinder fence at a perfect 90 degree and use that as a guide
Nice one James, very informative, always wondered what those little springs did.
Another great video James. Wish I’d found your channel before now 👏👏
Thanks
Gotta love it when you have one of those 'boom, there it is' moments.
James, you do this lovingly and it's always fun to watch.
There must be a lot of critters preferring to live in all this gear... I dread the thought that a mouse got mangled in my Honda 11hp....😅
Thanks for all.
Cheers Reiner
Reference your comments on the surge spring. The OEM probably left it out because they knew it would end up in your shop as a learning exercise. Another good find James!
You might get a small V block to set the stem of the valve in while rotating it against the belt sander.
Yes, I was looking at those, but couldn’t get one in time
Had my Tecumseh engine since 1998 when it was new. Its on my channel.
I need to get me an ultra sonic. Prob save me a lot of time.... They look like they work well.
It’s really a time saver and it cleans well with dawn dish soap and water 😊
Not just a time-saver. It cleans better.
Thanks for the great videos and tips.
I was given a great mower that would not start. I 1st looked at the carb as you do. FROZEN, Dint even venture a clean as a Amazon replacement is 18 bucks
Thanks 👍👍👍
Another great video James, it seems all Tecumseh engines always need the exhaust valve stem ground down a few thou and lapped, intakes are always OK. Nature of the beast I guess.
When you remove the heads, just take a fine file and clean up the head bolts holes mating flanges. You will find the aluminum will have high spots. And head may not quite have the right head gasket compression.
The skull engine looked like it was screaming the whole time. The valve cover finally shut it up.
Great machine. Brass float . You don't see, thoughs anymore. That genny will last many more hours thanks to you.
I was concerned with the needle seat. But i guess it's good. Probably shrunk which made the float adjustment necessary.
I have learned a lot from you.
Have the same exact generator since late 1990's, put the anti-surge spring on the carb years back and helped immensely but gained Hz so had to back down on Hz slightly after installation. Same here never been able to get rid of the random slight miss in the combustion. But very faithful generator.
Love your videos!! My son and I watch to see what you fix.
Who's the hockey player in your house?!?!
My oldest played when he was younger.
Most excellent!! 🏒
Applause!! good job :)
Another great video! 👍👍👍
11/64th works for me with I have not ever seen a metric drill bit and been working on mechanical stuff for 50 yrs Thanks again James!! I tend to watch most all the videos you make..
I am British, I was brought up with Imperial in High School. By the time I started anything technical a little time after High School we had gone metric. When I did college courses it was all in metric. I have spent 50 years using the metric system. I have not forgotten the imperial system though. If I do work for myself I look at what I am doing and decide which system I want to use. Working on anything commercial here in Wales its all inevitably metric.
If ever there was a man that needed a media blasting cabinet it would be you!!!!
30:30 Would JB Weld be able to repair something like that?
Fun fact… I’ve lived 5 miles from Tecumseh for 63 years and around here its pronounced Tecumsee. You would get funny looks saying it your way. Plus most of us prefer Briggs in our equipment with the possible exception of the snow king models.
Same here
I think someone may have said this before, but the thought occurred to me as I was listening to you diagnose this engine failure, that you sound much like Bob Ross (the painter) in your calming, educational speaking manner. I thoroughly enjoyed and learned as you disassembled the engine during troubleshooting.
Check out the picture Tom made on my community tab.
I saw a video where someone put dental floss between the piston and bore. Then they were able to clean the piston without getting any carbon in the rings.
Always the best and then adding an anti-surge spring to make it better than stock. Manufacturers should watch your channel!!!!!!!
They have been dead for a decade or longer...
Engineers that added the spring pre date his birth...
It is schroedinger's carb, it will both be dirty and clean until you open it and collapse the waveform.
Not too sure if many people watching this here know about that cat experiment ;)
But Sheldon explained it in Big Bang Theory, LOL Gord
The cat is dead already is it.
@@lucilleking7495 Oh, well that explains it, I only knew it from a scientific context.
Can clamp a piece of angle iron to the belt sander to use as a guide/rest.
The mysterious "growing valve stems" of the Tecumseh flat head motor........... Do they stretch?? Was someone at the factory not having a good day??? The world may never know.
I have this same Generator, the on/off switch tape on the shroud is a good Idea, I'm always forgetting witch way is on