#2 mode of failure, corroded pump bearings. I've thrown out 3 pedestal style pumps and 1 submersible pump where the pump impeller bearings corroded and seized when the pump was sitting in a wet sump for a few months without being run. Saved from a wet basement in all cases by having a second pump sitting higher in the pit. It's sits high and dry even during normal operation of pump #1 and will kick in if the water level in the pit rises to activate the switch. Pump #2 is also on a separate electric circuit and breaker.
Thanks for the information. The retailer websites don't show any of that sort of info. FYI Switch range of motion means they activate at different water level. They are just different The tethered switch doesn't activate until it is higher than the pump, thus the water level is higher. So high that it wouldn't activate in my shallow sump. It works in my deeper sump, so I got a vertical switch for the shallow sump
Very good and quick explanations of which switch is better. I ran electric to a Plumber Installed pump with a tether switch. Absolutely impossible to both turn on and off. Got an accessory “plug in” float switch from Home Depot. Taped the tether switch in the ON position. Plugged in the accessory switch, DONE.
I find the first pump switch a pain. I just had a new pump installed with that type of switch and it doesn’t even kick on sometimes. Causing a water mess in my crawl space. I adjusted the length of the cord hoping that it will kick on next time I get water build up.
I have a pump with the first float switch too, and I am just about tired of it. I think it gets stuck on the bucket, which causes it to trigger the pump intermittently, which forces me to go to the basement to manually trigger the pump. My handyman suggested a bigger bucket, but that would require digging out a bunch of rocks around the bucket in the trench, which would be a lot of work. I think it makes more sense to just get a new pump with a vertical float.
I think this is well. I have a pump with a tether switch, but I think it gets stuck on the bucket that holds the pump, which makes the pump run intermittently, which forces me to have to go and trigger the pump manually. I think I'm going to just get a new pump with a vertical float switch.
Thank you for this video. It really helped my wife understand how these work.
#2 mode of failure, corroded pump bearings. I've thrown out 3 pedestal style pumps and 1 submersible pump where the pump impeller bearings corroded and seized when the pump was sitting in a wet sump for a few months without being run. Saved from a wet basement in all cases by having a second pump sitting higher in the pit. It's sits high and dry even during normal operation of pump #1 and will kick in if the water level in the pit rises to activate the switch. Pump #2 is also on a separate electric circuit and breaker.
Thanks for the information. The retailer websites don't show any of that sort of info.
FYI Switch range of motion means they activate at different water level. They are just different
The tethered switch doesn't activate until it is higher than the pump, thus the water level is higher. So high that it wouldn't activate in my shallow sump. It works in my deeper sump, so I got a vertical switch for the shallow sump
Simple explanation and demonstration
Finally a decent explanation
Thanks, just the information I was searching for
Very good and quick explanations of which switch is better.
I ran electric to a Plumber Installed pump with a tether switch. Absolutely impossible to both turn on and off. Got an accessory “plug in” float switch from Home Depot. Taped the tether switch in the ON position. Plugged in the accessory switch, DONE.
Thanks it helped a lot
Why no mention of diaphragm switches. I have one on my little giant sump pump and it's worked flawlessly for over 25 years.
I find the first pump switch a pain. I just had a new pump installed with that type of switch and it doesn’t even kick on sometimes. Causing a water mess in my crawl space. I adjusted the length of the cord hoping that it will kick on next time I get water build up.
I have a pump with the first float switch too, and I am just about tired of it. I think it gets stuck on the bucket, which causes it to trigger the pump intermittently, which forces me to go to the basement to manually trigger the pump. My handyman suggested a bigger bucket, but that would require digging out a bunch of rocks around the bucket in the trench, which would be a lot of work. I think it makes more sense to just get a new pump with a vertical float.
Can some switches be adjusted to come on at like three inches of water.
the vertical float switch is a better option for a shallow sump bason too. a tether has to long a sweep for those.
Yup
I think this is well. I have a pump with a tether switch, but I think it gets stuck on the bucket that holds the pump, which makes the pump run intermittently, which forces me to have to go and trigger the pump manually. I think I'm going to just get a new pump with a vertical float switch.
Number 3 - how do you raise the pump so it turns on higher ?
What about considering dual caged floats or an electronic switch like levelguard or Ion Technologies.