Eachine Mini Mustang - 2S Brushless Mod - DSMX mod
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2020
- First flight video here: • Eachine Mini Mustang 2...
Correction: In the video I wrote "1405" motor, but it is actually an 1105. The "14" is the outer diameter (14mm). Motors are measures by STATOR size, 11mm x 5mm in this case. Sorry for any confusion.
The project:
I completed my build of a brushless version of the Eachine mini P-51 with DSMX compatibility so I can use my Spektrum transmitters, instead of the hokey little TX it comes with.
Battery power has been doubled (from 1S to 2S lipo), and the plane now has gyro-stability but no wing bank-angle limits. This will help with flying aerobatics on windy days (it's ALWAYS windy here in spring and summer).
Rather than chop up my existing Eachine Mustang (already converted to AS3X but still 1S power), I decided to start the second build using a replacement fuselage and wing. This made it easier to plan and apply the mods to fit the new parts.
I never liked the original external aileron linkage, so I fitted an internal hidden linkage using 1mm piano wire (same as the pushrods) and some 2mm OD, 1mm ID carbon fiber tube to act as a bearing through the wing and an anchor point in the soft and flexible ailerons (I made change them to balsa someday). I also used some pre-shrunk heat shrink tubing in some locations.
I used 2 short portions of this carbon tubing to fab attachments for the servo pushrods as well.
Motor is a Hobby King 3000KV "AP05" 1405 outrunner I found on eBay. Any similar size outrunner will do. (NOTE: The 3000KV was insufficient, so the plane now has an 1108 6000KV motor, which does the job fine).
Receiver brick is an AS6419NBL with brushless ESC built in. I hope Eflite comes out with a 1S version of this BL board someday. - Zábava
![[MAIDEN FLIGHT] Testing on the Wltoys XK A280 RC Brushless P51 Mustang 3D6G Mode Stunt Fighter Plane](/img/n.gif)
I have been flying a stock version of this for a little over a month now and have been very impressed. I really enjoy your videos. Keep it up. very cool!
I've been thinking about how to do this for the last week haha glad I finally found this video.
Hello.
Check out my other plane mod vids too. They may inspire your own ideas on how to proceed. Hope you find them useful.
neat job
The first flight test video can be seen if you search youtube for "Eachine Mini Mustang 2S Power". Sorry but they don't allow us to post links here anymore.
Man I envy you, you guys have tons of patience👍😊
The results in the end make it all worthwhile. Happy flying!
Great mod cant wait to see how much power it has now. Do you know if a brushless set up will work with the factory receiver?
There is a thread at RCGroups where a member named Scousethief is tracing the circuits on the board to run an external ESC. I'm going to use that info to try to hook up a brushless ESC to my DSMX 1S Mustang and my stock Volantex Sport Cub (same receiver as the Eachine Mustang!). I'll put the info on my channel here if I am successful.
Is it possible somehow upgrade origin eachine brick to brushless? On the very old parkzone 1s brushed bricks it was possible.
I have tried, but the Eachine bricks will not bind if they do not detect a brushed motor connected to them. Part of the failsafe, I think.
Yes, the basic parkzone / Eflite receivers can control an external ESC. They lost that feature when AS3X was added due to limited onboard memory for storing the code. Likewise we lost programming of AS3X for the same reason when SAFE was added. They are working in new receivers due to the chip shortages, so lets hope those features are returned.
Happy flying!
how do you fit propeller on that motor? i have 1.35mm shaft and propeller has bigger hole. I didnt find any propeller mount in that measurements
In the video at the 0:29 second mark and beyond you can see an aluminum 1.5mm prop adapter.
Can this same build process be used on the p47 400mm from volantex?
Hello. You can do this with any of the 400mm warbirds. It's trickier with Eflite airframes due to the fragile nature of the foam they use, but with care you can mod those too.
Happy flying!
Do you have a video about making the aileron controls internal?
Sorry for the late reply: czcams.com/video/A2aHNsGG5EU/video.html
A few questions:
1. what's the AUW of this plane now with battery?
2. if I don't plan to take it apart again is there any issue gluing it shut after modding?
3. do you think the plane could accommodate an additional 15g for a digital fpv system after this mod? I'm debating on this or just building the flite test mighty mustang and using it on that, but I love tiny fpv aircraft.
Greetings.
1. I cannot check the flight weight of the 2S P-51 anymore, as the plane no longer exists in this form.
I continued my experiments and it's now flying on 1S power with a 1207 motor and 10A ESC. This version with a stock 400mAh pack weighs 72g. This is the same plane in the video as it sits today: czcams.com/video/8-BSgVtultM/video.html
2. Go ahead and glue it shut. I convert my planes to removable wings for easier transportation and smaller storage footprint.
3. People are putting FPV on these birds already, so the extra power here should prove a benefit to it. I put 15g of non-FPV cameras on one with no issues: czcams.com/video/ea_SdOBPGXQ/video.html
Happy flying!
@@Doggeslife hey thanks a ton for the reply! How do you like it on 1s? I think you're the only person to do a good video on this (thst I've seen) so I'm curious how the two compare. I'm a drone guy and this is my first real plane and I just love flying it. All I've done is hot glue a micro FPV camera just in front of the cockpit.
I used a camera Eachine TX06 700TVL in my mini Mustang.
It would be interesting to have in this plane FPV with small single axis gyro head tracker,
but it would be a few grams more. This idea is very appealing to me.
Great Vid. BTW. How do you open the shell to replace the motor?
Thx
The plane in this video was built up from a replacement fuselage that comes in left and right halves.
To learn how to cut a ready-to-fly Mustang open, watch this video: czcams.com/video/C1cg7kdJkzQ/video.html
@@Doggeslife hi. Thx a lot. You really helps a lot.
How long was the flight time after the mods ?
Can you show how the original motor is placed? Thanks!
The factory motor fits into a gear-reduction drive. That drive has T-shaped flanges that fit into similar T-shaped slots in the fuselage to locate it correctly: imgur.com/roruMGu.jpg
This is my first plane, and have been looking for a way to upgrade the internals due to the fact that i bent the prop shaft and parts are hard to come by. Most hobby shops i went to tell me not to bother on a plane so cheap, but I’m a mechanic and love to upgrade and tinker. I fitted mine with a sport cub S gearbox and motor since most hobby shops here stock parts for them and she flies great! But damn i wish i saw this first lol. If you can have a more in depth video on this build for a newb like me 😆 that would be awesome!
Parts for the mini Mustang can be found at : www.banggood.com/search/eachine-mini-p-51/2085-0-0-1-1-60-0-price-0-0_p-1.html
A CZcams video with good background music, finally!
Great job! Where did you find the DSMX board?
Thank you. Found it cheap on Ebay.
Hi How the hell do you get the wings off without destroying them. Thanks
I used fresh and very sharp X-acto knife blades and single edge razor blades. And lots of patience. You can cut through the glue if you go slow.
I used a similar method with my Super Cub: czcams.com/video/BTJoIQVFa4M/video.html
PS I there a non live van halen version of this….if so where is it? cheers
Sorry, no. You'll have to settle for turning the volume control down to zero. Happy flying!
Would you help me?
I bought an E51 from Eachine identical to what you posted in this video but I'm not able to configure the control.
I followed each step of the manual but it doesn't work.
1- I put the battery on the plane first. Inside, the LED flashes.
2- turn on the control. The LED flashes and then stops flashing.
3- (problem) the plane is flashing the internal LED.
I need to know how to configure the control. Am I doing something wrong?
At that point the plane has bound/connected to the transmitter but the plane is disabled due to a safety system.
At this stage move the throttle stick all the way up and then down once to disarm. That should produce a beep and a solid non-flashing LED in the plane. The motor will be armed now so be careful.
Hope that works for you. Happy flying!
@@Doggeslife Unfortunately I already tested it. Still, it didn't work. I think it is defective, I will ask for my refund. thank you
Hey! I’m just trying replace my base for the safe prop system (piece attached to the shaft) I’m just asking if you know how to get that price off without breaking the original motor. (Yeah it’s unrelated to the mod but I couldn’t find any YT vids on the subject and this was the closest thing) thanks!
Hello. The while prop-saver coupler on the plane itself is held by friction and a snug fit on the metal 2mm prop shaft and just slides off the shaft with some force. I like to use needle-nose pliers to pry them off. Or push the needle nose pliers across the base of the white coupler so that the gradually thickening jaws of the pliers acts like a wedge to gently push it off the shaft. Replacement plastic couplers just press on. There is a step on the shaft, so be sure to orient the new coupler correctly before pressing a new one all of the way on.
I hope that helps. Happy flying!
@@Doggeslife Thanks so much! i made sure to make sure the step was aligned and put on a fresh coupler. bonus, im your 400th sub!
@@acemonkey1016 Happy flying!
Can I bind to AS6419NBLD on TX16S? I'm a rookie flight. from south korea.
Yes. Use DSMX protocol. Sorry I do not have a TX16S else I could provide more assistance.
sammy hagar, that's a thumb up
Always. Happy flying!
Perdon señor. Como enlazar emisora dx6 a este avion??? Muchas gracias
El Eachine P-51 utiliza un protocolo de señal diferente al del transmisor Spektrum DX6. La única forma de hacerlo es deshacerse de la electrónica de serie y poner un receptor Spektrum en el avión como hice aquí.
(The Eachine P-51 uses a different signal protocol than the Spektrum DX6 transmitter. The only way to do it is to get rid of the stock electronics and put a Spektrum receiver in the plane as I did here.)
Can i bind it with taranis qx7?
Any DSMX-compatible transmitter. The QX7 requires a DSMX module plugged in the back. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2604473-DSMX-Module-for-Taranis
Could I connect your setup (motor and battery) to the original eachine brick unit.
The original brick has a brushed motor output and does not work with brushless motors. Brushed motors run off direct current but brushless need a special pulsed power supply (ESC or Electronic Speed Control).
You would need a convertor to provide a brushless signal, and an ESC to produce the power pulses a brushless motor requires.
I demonstrate such a convertor in this video: czcams.com/video/vez-kRzpvHU/video.html
@@Doggeslife thankyou so much. I need to do this because I doubled the weight of the spitfire with custom hard shell finish, accessories and paint job. I will try this forsure.
@@RS-yl8vy Your plane will have to fly very fast then due to it's high wing loading, or else it won't stay in the air at all. Weight is critical in aviation. But DOUBLE the previous weight may very well cause big issues. I wish you the best of luck with it.
Hi ye I've done weight tests, also I fly them in strong wind and the weight helps with speed and stability, I fly them to their limits in full advance mode. I've found the weight helps level it nicely Luke a bigger bird. I'm also running a bigger heavier 1s 600mah. I followed your links and have spoken to Jerry at j.bauer electronics and I'm almost ready to order. I would like to know what you think I should go with. The 1s option or the 2s option, and what is the best/most powerful motor I could use with either one of the 2s or 1s esc. I want as much power as possible. And obviously must fit within the nose. I've opened it up and made a removable top panel over the exhaust s. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
@@RS-yl8vy I have run 1108 and 1204 to 1206 motors in the P-51. For 2S power stay between 3000Kv and 4000Kv, Lower Kv gives more prop-spinning torque.
My throttle doesn't work when I arm it on the controller
The propeller doesnt spin
Is my my motor?
i think the gear that is supposed to connect the motor to the propeller is dislocated, i have the same problem too
Same thing happened to me (motor just stopped, but sometimes worked if I spun the prop a bit).. Were you guys able to fix it? Not sure if I want to mod this thing, or just get rid of it..
@@ontherampflightsim8249 no joy.
I'm not sure what I want to do.
I was thinking of fixing it but is it even worth it.
Wish I got a helicopter lol
@@ontherampflightsim8249 The brushed motor doesn't last forever. I bought a bunch of replacement motors from Monkey-Hobby on Aliexpress($22 for 3 motors shipped). The brushed motors (1020), are not really brushed, but have copper terminals that are about 1/16" wide and split into 3 sections. These terminals are what contact the commutator. Just started having problems with my P51 motor, works sometimes and then doesn't, so I pulled it out and replaced it with a new one, and put in PH 2.0 connectors for the next motor change. Pulled the back off the old motor and found a bunch of soot all over the comm and terminals. Will clean with electrical cleaner and see if it's still usable, as the comm doesn't look that bad. Best way to get out the motor on P51 is to cut the nose off by cutting in between the #2 and #3 exhaust pipe feature on fuselage. The gearbox on these are glued in good and not sure that splitting the fuselage is better way.
@@ontherampflightsim8249 Also, this receiver has the ESC built into it, but will need 2S to run motor ( AR6410LBL DSMX 6-Ch Ultra Micro Receiver, $30 ebay ). The RS1106 is smaller and lighter than RS1108, but obviously will have less torque. I'm thinkin' he went the external ESC route so he could use a 1S battery as he shows in later vids. He's kind of all over the place with the mods, but ended up using 1S with RS1108 motor. Not sure why you can't just change Ch-6 for Throttle in controller, but have to program it..Kinda light on the info there. I can do that quite easily on my TX16S Radiomaster. Anyway, with the built-in ESC that shouldn't be a problem.
Hi from Germany. I would like to modify the stock radio. My idea is, to use the aerobatic switch, to switch between mid mode and expert mode, by pressing it for the time, I would like to have full control and no limitations by the internal gyro. But when I lose control, I would just release the button, to switch back to mid mode, which would save me from crashing. I dont like to use the mode switch, as when it needs immediate reaction, it’s sometimes too hard to find the switch. Maybe it would make sense to relocate the switch somewhere to the left hand side, where you could reach it with the left index finger, while holding the radio in a relaxed position. Sorry for my bad english, but I guess, that you understand my thoughts. Best regards Siegmar
Your English is fine.
I looked inside and saw a red wire leading into the 3-way toggle switch, a black and a blue wire leading away. It appears an open circuit gives you INTERMEDIATE mode (middle position), moving the switch forward connects the red wire to the black one for BEGINNER mode and the back position connects red to blue for manual mode.
UN-solder the blue wire from the 3-position toggle switch and connect it to the new Momentary contact button switch (NO or Normally Open type) and then run a second new wire from the button switch back to where the blue wire originally connected to the toggle switch.
Such a set-up will require the toggle switch be in the back position AND the new button held down to get MANUAL mode. Letting go of the button will drop the plane back into INTERMEDIATE mode.
You can disconnect the wires from the stunt button if you do not use it and re-use that for your manual mode button. If you choose to add a separate button switch then there's a nice flat area in the plastic case just behind the stunt button where one could drill a hole and add a second button.
Interesting idea. If you need a wire diagram let me know. I'd love to see it in operation.
The only issue I see is that it ties up your left hand holding the button down while trying to do aerobatics. Could be a distraction. Maybe a remote foot switch.... ;-)
Happy flying.
@@Doggeslife Thank you very much for your reply! I have read a lot of your rc forum threads and comments, so i thought it would be a good idea, to ask you. I like the eachine mini warbirds just as they are. As i fly them in intermediate mode most of the time, it gives me a lot of control (loops and even rolls out of an upward movement. Even a bit of inverted flying is possible, when I hit the right point in a loop. ) switching to expert gets me into stress, trying to fly free rolls or other figures. To save the plane, when it gets out of control, it's sometimes hard for me to find the mode switch. So I thought, it might be an easy way to have full control and by releasing the switch, saving the plane from crashing. I dont use rudder very often and most of the time, I dont touch the throttle, so my left hand could operate this switch. I guess, it would even help me, to relocate the mode switch, that I could operate it with the left hand.
Thanks again for your input! I hope, that eachine will release more of the little warbirds. Cheers Siegmar
@@Doggeslife Hi again. I have used the aerobatic button, to switch between mid and expert mode, like you have explained. It works perfectly! Even the position of the switch is ok. I also unsoldered the beeper, as it is very annoying. I will test it later, as the wind is very strong today.
Maybe you could write about this modification in the rc forum. .
Cheers Siegmar
@@siegmarlange5470 I will consider that. Looks like an interesting mod, and I have a few of theses transmitters to work with.
Happy flying!
@@Doggeslife Hello. I have done a short test flight in strong wind. The button works perfectly! It switches immediately between modes, without delay. No annoying beep anymore. I am very happy with the modification.
Thanks again!
Please make a video on everything you will need to do exactly what you have
Sorry , but I don't do that. I do usually list the items used in the videos, but I don't post links to purchase them because the links change so quickly.
How were you able to separate the components from the Fuselage? Mine is all glued together?
This one was made from replacement parts . But with my other builds I found the glue to be like a hard rubber, and with careful prying using your hands you can separate the brick or motor mount from the foam.
Note that there is still mold-release on the surface of the foam parts, and glue joints will eventually fail unless you tear up the surface to be glued first to expose raw, uncontaminated foam.
The wing has to be cut free using a hobby knife. For the motor some will use a single edge razor blade to split the fuselage nose apart right on the glue seam to remove the motor.
I searched for AS6410NBL brick (w. stabilization) but cannot find the same brick you used. The nearest one is this (www.aliexpress.com/item/1966697441.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.125a3c00uEdhxK&mp=1) but not supports as3x. Could you provide a link to the brick?
www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201221130314&origin=y&SearchText=AS6410NBL
BUT, if you want built-in elevator and rudder servos then use EFLU8464...Only one left at discount: www.ebay.com/itm/6CH-EFLU4864-6-Ch-Ultra-Micro-Receiver-BL-ESC-For-E-flite-airplane-AS3X-DSM2-Tra/153627385514?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D74bc58ee5bf14967a1cacc39e20474d5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D392997003390%26itm%3D153627385514%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
And note that if you have a 2S ESC with a BEC (battery eliminator circuit) to power the receiver, then you can use a 1S AS3X receiver. Most ESCs have them. Some 1A receivers here: www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201221131124&SearchText=as3x
I'd recommend a SAFE mode receiver too, but they are not re-programmable and have to be mounted with servos facing up towards the canopy.
DROP THE MUSIC. AND SAY WHAT YOU ARE DOING.!!
That is not what this site is about. Sorry about that.
If you require verbal information, then please try GroundControlRC's site. He just did a brushless mod on this plane himself, and uploaded a video giving oral instruction on how he did it.
Here is a link. I hope you find his video useful. Happy flying! czcams.com/video/EGwJweypaHM/video.html
Power losses are directly proportional to amount of distance travelled........simply speaking higher kv motors, more prop blades, r extremely inefficient ........They must be used only if space is restrictive like for EDF ........If I give u specs of my micro brushlesses u will re-MOD all of your
20 in wingspan V911 with 1406 2500kv Eachine motor 2s ....7in prop (GAME CHANGER)....... Yep u read it r8 7in gives 200g thrust 120g half throttle......AUW 100g ....30min vertical performance......How to decide prop for motor? Keep increasing prop size until motor starts running warm & that is max efficiency point for motor
EDFs use very high Kv motors because ducted fans inherently require much higher RPMS to have any efficiency. I use them in my fast electric boats. A higher and lower Kv variation of a particular motor can have the same physical dimensions, so space is not an issue. The number of turns of wire in the stator will determine if it is a lower torque, higher Kv version or a high torque, lower Kv version.
Lower Kv motors of a given motor size have more turns of wire and often require higher voltage, I.E. my 1207 7500kV motor is rated for 2S-3S but the exact same motor with a 5000Kv rating (more winds) is rated 3S-4S. By luck I am able to run the higher KV / lower wind motor on 1S successful due to less wire and lower resistance.
Higher volts/lower Kv is always better for power and efficiency, I agree. But 1406 motors and 7" props add more bulk and weight than I am shooting for here. My RCINpower 1207 is under 7 grams. A GOFLY-RC 1406 is 13g, nearly double.
And I do not think a 17 to 18mm wide 1406 will fit in this 16" span Mini Mustang's fuselage nose anyway. My 1207 at 14mm diameter barely does.
However, the 1105 3000Kv and stock 5" prop (still using the prop saver too) I used on this plane in this video worked out quite well: czcams.com/video/1Iyo5QscFBQ/video.html
My favorite and lightest set-up uses a 1207 7500Kv and a 10A ESC on 1S power. I put in in the Mustang in place of the 1105 and 2S system. Lighter now and still fast, and plenty of run time: czcams.com/video/m8Q3rwYkVzs/video.html
Thank you for the info. Happy flying.
@@Doggeslife Ya I did follow your 1207 1s videos & they work quite nice ....... Just giving u reassurance .
For ideal most efficient motor prop combo .....Keep increasing prop size until motor runs really warn eg for 1306 (sorry not 1406) 2500kV motor 5in prop for 3s, 7in prop for 2s & 9in prop for 1s (yes u read right 9in) gives max efficiency
Actually 1s more efficient than 2s than 3s
Using bigger motor than plane needs will help u cruise at under quarter throttle meaning very long flight time & fully aerobatic at half throttle
I have one stock thats going to go about 65 mph ;)
Nice. I hope to see it on video someday. Happy flying!
How would you like to do one for me😀?
Sorry, but I only build tutorials to show other how to do it. It's my goal to help reserve the "modeling" part of the model airplane hobby.
With all the labor time and cost of plane and parts it's would probably have to sell for $300 or so anyway. Not worthwhile.