BMW Airhead Mechanicals #09 - Swingarm Bearings, Rear Wheel & Brakes
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2020
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We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
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www.boxer2valve.com/1985-on-m...
This new series will be focusing on the maintenance and repair of Airheads. Quite a lot of this mechanical work would apply to 1981 and on airheads. This tutorial is using the former 1985 R80 RT that William converted to a 1985 R80 S variant in our last video series.
In this ninth episode William, walks you through how to replace the bearings in the Swingarm, install the Swingarm, rear wheel and brakes and much more! Follow along with William as he walks you through each step of the mechanical maintenance and repairs to keep these amazing bikes on the road. Always filled with great tricks to help you with your own Airhead project. Follow along our instructional videos for working on your own BMW Airhead Classic. Learn valuable tips from William to save you both time and money on your R2V build!
boxer2valve.com specializes in BMW motorcycles from 1969 to 1995. Showing you what can be done in your own garage with a little help from us. If you have any questions about your bike or one of ours, please don't hesitate to contact us!
See you on the road!-
Team Boxer 2 valve
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here:
www.boxer2valve.com/1985-on-mechanical-episode-09-swing-arm-bearing-replacement-rear-wheel-and-brakes.html
I am doing a similar project with my 85 R80 RT. these videos have been great. Regarding the swing arm bearing driver, I simply dremeled a slot in the old outer race and used that. The slot keeps it from binding in the frame and it's exactly the right size, of course!. Plus, anybody doing this will have a couple of those to start with. :)
"if you break the wrench, you went a little bit overboard", well said. Important tip.
We appreciate you making the videos William. Thanks.
William once again thank you for your in depth videos. It's a pleasure watching and learning from your content. If I was in the US, I would come and pay you a visit Sir. Thanks
Thank you for the immense knowledge that’s put into these amazing videos. Can’t wait for the next ones!
More to come!
I am a big fan of your channel. Very good explained work, lot of knowledge, tips and tricks. I like your calm precise way of doing things with a lot of enthusiastic. Best wishes from Germany, Chris.
Thank you again William for the great informative videos! Very inspiring and great detail!
Glad you enjoyed it
Really enjoy your videos, greetings from England
Great video once again, love the way this bike is coming together
Thanks 👍
This is first class William, much appreciated from UK.
It's great to know you appreciate this. There are more in the works.
Thank you so much boss
I like your videos, have a 1996 gspd classic.
That's a very cool bike!
The spring/cam assembly is also known as a torsion damper (there is another one inside the transmission, on the input shaft)
nice, thank you!
Thank you too!
27:45 that's what she said.
4 driveshaft bolts: Previously, lock washers were originally used... newer version bolts are shorter... ("thread locker" fluid is sufficient)
original bolts (which should never be re-used) are TOO LONG (without lock washers) risk shredding transmission output shaft bearing seal (spin rear wheel, while in neutral, check for grinding noise...)
Goeie morning William, I’m Guido from Germany. Can you give me some advice what kind of surface treatment you’ve done by the project R100
Is that done by water blasting?.Looks awesome.
Last weak I was visiting the Hobbyist in Hunsel nearby from were I live. I’m talking about your great videos and top explanations, your getting much greetings from Kasper the ceo.
hi will! Is the lm 3080 copper paste gonna work the same like the lm 508 you’re showing in this clip? Amazing videos and keep up with the good work😎
Thank you for such informative videos! I was wondering - is there a way to convert my 1976R 90/6 swingarm bearings to sealed bearings? I get a load of grease slung all over the back end with the current tapered bearing set up. I wouldn’t mind doing this also to my wheel hubs as well.
Great video, I wish I have a lot of extra rubber gloves I could send you
That would be cool. Finally got some in the meantime, thanks!
I just purchased a 1984 R65 that runs well; everything seams to be in good shape, but I would like to do all the periodic servicing at once. Can you make a video of all the periodic servicing needed on similar bikes?
We'll get working on that ! Thanks for watching !
Hé William! I’m curious did you also put grease on the splines of the shaft and the final drive? Greetings from the Netherlands
How do you get the aluminum casting pieces like the wheels and engine etc. so clean?
Would you know if a shaft from an '81-84 fit into a 1977 R100?
I am just about to do this on my R100rs can this be done without removing the drive shaft?
You can remove the swing arm, together with the final drive and leave the drive shaft alone. You can take out the entire assembly to replace the swing arm bearings and put it right back in, no problem.
Why did’t you lube the splines on the drive shaft and final drive?
The splines of the driveshaft and final drive will be lubricated by the gear oil in the swingarm.
To seat the swing arm bearings, take the outer race from an old bearing and use a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut a radial slit through it. Use it butted up against the new race and a largish socket to drive the new one home. (the slit is so the old race has a slight degree of flexibility and won't jam in the recess). Do the same for head bearings and wheel bearings. Put the doctored bearing in your 'special tools' drawer for next time...
To fit the snap ring easily, get a piece of steel tube just a clearance fit over the shaft. Lay the snap ring square on top of the shaft, apply the tube to the ring and tap it with a hammer, the shaft has sufficient chamfer to act as a lead and expand the ring over the shaft and into the groove. A flat ended bi-hex socket will also do the job quite well.
Thanks very much for these fantastic suggestions! Great ideas!
LquiMoly states: "MoS2... for engine oil???" (even air-cooled engines?)
"...civilian times..."??