I can watch this Chris Harris for hours (and I do). Unlike the other Chris Harris on ‘Top Gear’ etc. Many thanks for this informative and entertaining series.
Thank you! I just picked up a 1973 R 75/5 that was last started in 1999. I drained te old stinky gas, changed all the fluids (engine, tranny, drive shaft, rear end) and installed a new battery. Bike started and runs!!! But it is clattering on the right side cylinder. Your video is very helpful! Thanks so much!!
Thank you so much Chris for your videos. I always wanted to fix my own bike, now you have given me the tutorial and courage to do it. It was such a well put together that made it clear and informative. Thanks again. Big time fan.Greg BMW 1972 75-5
thankyou for this vid ive been messing around all morning trying to do my clearances just sat down to have a coffee, I thought i would have a look on youtube for a vid about valve clearances i found this and the moment you opened that window that shows tdc i jumped out of my seat and ran to my bike pulled it open and there it was THANKYOU SO FREEKIN MUCH, i have had this bike for about 3 years and regularly checked the oil and never noticed that rubber bung, you have just made my life so much easier
Thanks Chris, I'm new to airheads & am (slowly) learning to work on my '85 R80G/S. Now attempting my first valve adjustment and found the right side exhaust is way too loose with a lot of end play. Very helpful that you covered that issue. Thanks!
Great videos on all your work mate much appreciated for the help with my r100/7 rebuild. Brings all the info to a working mans level thanks again. Steve ,Australia.
"aww for god's sake"! chris harris is everyone's favorite uncle. the one that tells the real stories about our dad. we all have that guy...or wish we did.
Chris I really like all your videos, I have a BMW motocycle and whenever I need to fix something on it I watch your videos thank you for all the great information you give in your videos.
Thanks for another great video. I'll be doing this on my channel on my newly acquired '78 R80/7 soon. I'd heard that you had to loosen and retorque the heads every clearance check. You might have just saved Jay a fortune... :) -jaysbigadventure
i'm learning much sensei and we figured out the bosch D Jetronic system, yay, i fixed a vacuum leak, and it began to start and idle much better, smooth like buttah
Thanks, great video! I recently bought a used R100R ('91) and tried adjusting the valves this weekend. Left side was no issue, went really smooth. Right side not so much. The valves were a bit thightened up, so I tried to loosen the lock nut. It turned through and I managed to damage the screw thread on the left adjustment bolt. Right now I'm trying to get it out of the rocker arm without damaging it. Any tips on avoiding this in the future? And on how to remove the damaged bolt?
Hi, When you remove the feeler gauge there will certainly be a little bit of play between the tip of the rocker arm and the head of the valve stem. Thanks, Chris
Amazing videos. Huge thanks from overseas. One question I can't find an answer to is what to replace if the double 12mm bolts on the valve adjuster have been threaded? What part is it called. Eeek! Lou
Hi Chris, thanks for all the effort you took to make and upload these tutorials. So far still looking on a way to remove the engine out of the frame of my '83 R80 rt. Disassambled everything exept gearbox and timingchain cover. Coult you advise me what the best way is to do so? Thanks!
Thanks for the video; so you show the procedure for too much rocker end play; what if there's no play/ oil seepage- just loosen one bolt & wiggle a bit? sorry if that's a dumb question...
chris there is no ot mark on my flywheel? there is a F and looks like someone marked towards the clutch punched dots that look like a f or a p? can you help me? its a 1977 R100S Thank you ken
great video. i have a 1971 R75/5. it makes a nasty knocking at the right side intake valve, but runs great. u say all Airheads follow this same procedure. i have also heard that some models used shim washers to deal with this end play. any thoughts on that?
I have 1979 r65, I have spun the wheel in top gear and I only see a Z or sideways N....no OT like you say and manual says. And some big dots. So which is TDC on mine. Did the older airheads do it differently??? Please lmk. Thanks
Search 'BMW Service - Oilhead Valve Adjustment' Also search 'BMW Service - Angle Torque / valve adjustment @ 600 mile service' All Oilheads are the same procedure but do not perform the cylinder head Angle Torque unless your machine only has 600 miles on it or you have had the cylinder heads (not the covers) off 600 miles ago.
Also, when putting covers back on to test, does it matter what order I put everything back together? Spark plugs in then cover on or does it not make a difference.
hello, but when I put the pistons in ot, they are both at the top dead center (one will be at the end of the discharge process and one at the end of the intake) both valves are closed. so why do I have to rotate the tree 360 degrees between one cylinder and another? thanks
It is quite rare to find not enough rocker arm end-play on an Airhead. But if you were to come cross such a situation you'd be correct to loosen one nut and tap the rocker arm in the direction of the loosened nut. Then re-torque and inspect. Thanks for the question.
Got all clearances adjusted except for one. I think the lock nut on the left side exhaust is stripped. Won't back all the off so the only way for it to sit is so the clearance is completely touching the spring area. Is this ok.
Hello Chris, I am doing a valve adjustment on a 1973 R75/5 and was wondering if you could explain something for me. First is top gear you mean the highest gear correct ? I have a 4speed so it will be 4th gear? And also how do I know which side to adjust first ? Sorry I'm new to these airheads and I am trying to learn. Thanks, abe
Hey Chris, great video, wish it was longer. Couple of questions. In the 7 minute range when you are adjusting the valves with the butter knife things, should the re not be any play? I can't seem to lock it so it stays in place. I followed your instructions at minute 9 as far as tightening but there is still a little movement. The clearance is .20 mm for the exhaust but when I remove the butter knife thing I can jiggle it and it closes the gap. Do I just need to tighten it more?
Last thing. Adjusted clearance on right side of the bike, rotated wheel and adjusted left side. When I looked at the right side the clearance changed drastically. Is that normal?
Hi, You need to remove the transmission. Since CZcams doesn't allow us to post links please search BMW Service - R100 Spline Lube Part 1 of 4 for instructions to remove the transmission. Good luck, Chris
You adjust the valve gaps of the left side when the flywheel is at OT and the left piston is at the start of its compression stroke. Then you rotate a full turn to the compression stroke of the right side and adjust those valve gaps. Is that correct?
No, that´s not correct and the video doesn´t shows a part that is very important. When you inspect and check for the OT mark, it means that ONE of the pistons will be on the TDC (top dead center). It doesn´t says left or right, this is something that you need to check. How to do it? Easy. When you see the mark, one of the pistons is on the tdc and both of the valves will be closed. If you check then to the opposite side, the other piston will be at a moment when the valves are opening/closing, the push rods are acting over them and you DO NOT have to do the adjustment on this side. YOU MUST ADJUST THE SIDE where the valves are both closed and the piston is on the top position (you can easily see it watching how the valves act while you rotate the wheel, and you can insert something too into the spark plug hole and "feel" how the piston moves up and down) ALSO, you can try to move the push rods: at the TDC, when the piston is at the top position, you can rotate them easily. THIS is the side that you must adjust. (if you move to the other side, you´ll see clearly how you can´t rotate the push rods, because they are pushing the valves) OK, after the side adjustment (whatever the side you adjusted), just move the wheels again 360 degrees until you find the OT mark again, and you will see that the side you adjusted, is not on the TDC now, the valves are crossing, but the other side WILL BE at the TDC. Go to the other side and adjust it... DONE.
Chris, Since yesterday I have re-done the valve clearances THREE TIMES and they still aren't right. Each time there's an almighty clatter from the left hand cylinder head. After the failed second attempt, I whipped off the rocker cover to find the exhaust valve clearance of about 4mm instead of 0.2mm. Yet I am certain I set them correctly. I think the problem is that when the OT is in the window, which side gets adjusted? This isn't clear in the video, and unless I know, I shall keep repeating this mistake. So I adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke? How do I now it's the compression stroke and not the inlet stroke?
Each 360 degree rotation of the crankshaft from Top Dead Center brings the other cylinder to Top Dead Center so yes, if you have adjusted one side and rotated the crank 360 degrees the side that you had already adjusted will likely have no clearance because that cylinder is no longer at TDC, the opposing cylinder, however, is at TDC.
Chris Harris, i fucked up and did the left side first, then rotated 360 deg to the next OT, and tried doing the right side. Will this work or do I have to start again
gareth, the later models have a split in the lower part of the lower side fairing panels. You unfasten the panel and then slightly twist the panel to open the seam and allow the panel to be removed from the exhaust pipe. Then you remove the 3 Allen head bolts securing the oil filter cover / cooler thermostat housing and move it out of the way to enable the oil filter to be removed. Pay close attention to the order of shim and o-ring and square o-ring that might be there. Not all are the same. Not all are correct, either. Good luck.
What did I say @ 2:14? You are correct in that the fiche shows merely a wave washer. However, the majority of Airheads that I have serviced over the past 20 years have had combinations of wave, flat, double flat, double wave, etc. Often a customer instsalled flat washers to the wave washers for whatever personal reason. I am not one to 'correct' that if there is no harm in the practice of using a flat along w/ a wave washer. Therefore, as I stated, many times you find... but all are not needed.
Exactly what I needed to know to do the job without the fluff that most people put in videos. Thank you Chris!
Well said Brandon
thank you for the excellent narration on this.... walked through step. Tremendous resource, thank you again!
I can watch this Chris Harris for hours (and I do). Unlike the other Chris Harris on ‘Top Gear’ etc. Many thanks for this informative and entertaining series.
You are most welcome, thanks.
Thank you Chris. I've got an air head and a k bike, you've saved me £100s in garage bills with these crystal clear vids
Thank you! I just picked up a 1973 R 75/5 that was last started in 1999. I drained te old stinky gas, changed all the fluids (engine, tranny, drive shaft, rear end) and installed a new battery. Bike started and runs!!! But it is clattering on the right side cylinder. Your video is very helpful! Thanks so much!!
Thank you so much Chris for your videos. I always wanted to fix my own bike, now you have given me the tutorial and courage to do it. It was such a well put together that made it clear and informative. Thanks again. Big time fan.Greg BMW 1972 75-5
thankyou for this vid ive been messing around all morning trying to do my clearances just sat down to have a coffee, I thought i would have a look on youtube for a vid about valve clearances i found this and the moment you opened that window that shows tdc i jumped out of my seat and ran to my bike pulled it open and there it was THANKYOU SO FREEKIN MUCH, i have had this bike for about 3 years and regularly checked the oil and never noticed that rubber bung, you have just made my life so much easier
Priceless and you say it as it is! Thanks a lot Chris
Thanks Chris I just bought an 83 r65 for my wife and it sounds really loud. I'm going to do this pronto. I appreciate your simple no nonsense ways.
Thanks Chris, I'm new to airheads & am (slowly) learning to work on my '85 R80G/S. Now attempting my first valve adjustment and found the right side exhaust is way too loose with a lot of end play. Very helpful that you covered that issue. Thanks!
Thanks mate, I had forgot how to do this and your video helped me get it again right away. All good.
Thanks so much. Did push rod seals and now valves are loud I adjusted them to no avail. Now I need to adjust rocker end play. You showed me the way!
Great videos on all your work mate much appreciated for the help with my r100/7 rebuild.
Brings all the info to a working mans level thanks again.
Steve ,Australia.
I'm off out to check mine now, cheers for a great and clear instructions Chris
Thank you! I am happy to have been able to help, Chris
Thanks Chris. Excellent as always. Much appreciated.
Chris you are the best thanks to your videos, I did everything by myself !!!
"aww for god's sake"! chris harris is everyone's favorite uncle. the one that tells the real stories about our dad. we all have that guy...or wish we did.
Excellent videos, very informative Chris. I'm most grateful to you for taking your valuable time to make them. XXX from Brazil
Great video! I always heard the airheads were fairly easy to work on. You just showed that to be the case. THanks.
Thank you for taking the time to make videos like this!
Thank you Patrick! While not a replacement for owning a Clymer manual I appreciate your sentiment. Thank you, Chris
Chris , Your the man! Thanks for your video's
that Help us out !!! Take care Brother!
Chris I really like all your videos, I have a BMW motocycle and whenever I need to fix something on it I watch your videos thank you for all the great information you give in your videos.
Hi Chris. Thanks for this video, kept t in my head while adjusting the valves on my R80 last night.
Great Video. Many thanks from Australia.
Thanks for another great video. I'll be doing this on my channel on my newly acquired '78 R80/7 soon. I'd heard that you had to loosen and retorque the heads every clearance check. You might have just saved Jay a fortune... :) -jaysbigadventure
Excellent..keep them coming Chris !!!
A goldmine of information.
I have not yet! I hope to have one here to video in the near future. Thanks, Chris
That is on my list of future videos. Thank you.
Thanks for the vids bros...I learn something new from every vid you make...From UK
Thanks. Stay tuned; there will be more soon, Chris
I'm always looking for your videos you always have a good information!! Thank you
You are welcome, Bambino. Stay tuned for more, Chris
Happy to have helped :)
Thank you Al!
You are very welcome. There will be much more this fall/winter.
Very informative. Tomorrow doing the valves and carb sync on the '82 R100RT and the '78 R100RS. I like to review with you prior to doing it.
Sounds great!
Yea man, well done. This is like Clymer in live action.
Thanks Chris for the video I have R100 need ajuste Valve.
You are very welcome, Ariel.
Thanks very much it was excellent.
i'm learning much sensei and we figured out the bosch D Jetronic system, yay, i fixed a vacuum leak, and it began to start and idle much better, smooth like buttah
Great wording of the video.
Perfect video
Thanks, great video! I recently bought a used R100R ('91) and tried adjusting the valves this weekend. Left side was no issue, went really smooth. Right side not so much.
The valves were a bit thightened up, so I tried to loosen the lock nut. It turned through and I managed to damage the screw thread on the left adjustment bolt. Right now I'm trying to get it out of the rocker arm without damaging it. Any tips on avoiding this in the future? And on how to remove the damaged bolt?
Hi Chris, just know that you mean a lot to me, trying to fix up my crappy old r80/7 !
You're welcome Ken, Chris
Hi, When you remove the feeler gauge there will certainly be a little bit of play between the tip of the rocker arm and the head of the valve stem. Thanks, Chris
Amazing videos. Huge thanks from overseas.
One question I can't find an answer to is what to replace if the double 12mm bolts on the valve adjuster have been threaded? What part is it called. Eeek! Lou
Thanks Wim Bon!
Awesome video chris ! Do you have video on replace the points on r60/2
Perfect ...thanks bro !!!
Excellent!
Thank you
I have R100R class and I love it!!! I want to be the only one to work on it, So Thank you agin I just Subscribed to your you tub channel.
hey junk, do you still have your r100r ?
Thanks Van! :)
Is this the same procedure to adjust the valves on my 1972 r75/5?
Nice machine gun! :-)
Very helpful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
You're welcome!
Hi Chris, thanks for all the effort you took to make and upload these tutorials. So far still looking on a way to remove the engine out of the frame of my '83 R80 rt. Disassambled everything exept gearbox and timingchain cover. Coult you advise me what the best way is to do so? Thanks!
Hey Chris, thank you for the video it's great! I have an R65 is't the same process?
Hi, could I use paper or silicone gasket sheets to make new valve cover gaskets if I need them or should I just order new ones?
great video..does everything apply the same way to a 1975 75/6
thanks Chris
Thanks for the video; so you show the procedure for too much rocker end play; what if there's no play/ oil seepage- just loosen one bolt & wiggle a bit? sorry if that's a dumb question...
chris my timing has no o/t there is a F then after a dimple ?
That guy is hilarious!! Very informative video!!
Hey, thanks! Stay tuned for new material, Chris
chris there is no ot mark on my flywheel? there is a F and looks like someone marked
towards the clutch punched dots that look like a f or a p?
can you help me? its a 1977 R100S Thank you ken
Thank you Sensei
You are welcome.
great video. i have a 1971 R75/5. it makes a nasty knocking at the right side intake valve, but runs great.
u say all Airheads follow this same procedure. i have also heard that some models used shim washers to deal with this end play. any thoughts on that?
Yes, all the Airheads have the same specs and procedures. The Oilheads are different though. Thanks, Chris
This one is rather rough but thanks! I'll do another at a later date.
I have 1979 r65, I have spun the wheel in top gear and I only see a Z or sideways N....no OT like you say and manual says. And some big dots. So which is TDC on mine. Did the older airheads do it differently??? Please lmk. Thanks
Search 'BMW Service - Oilhead Valve Adjustment'
Also search
'BMW Service - Angle Torque / valve adjustment @ 600 mile service'
All Oilheads are the same procedure but do not perform the cylinder head Angle Torque unless your machine only has 600 miles on it or you have had the cylinder heads (not the covers) off 600 miles ago.
Also, when putting covers back on to test, does it matter what order I put everything back together? Spark plugs in then cover on or does it not make a difference.
You have to loosen one nut to adjust the "end-play". What value do you use to re-torque it?
Anybody have a clue?
hello, but when I put the pistons in ot, they are both at the top dead center (one will be at the end of the discharge process and one at the end of the intake) both valves are closed. so why do I have to rotate the tree 360 degrees between one cylinder and another? thanks
hope all is well Chris. also hope its warming up at your new place
It is, thank you!
It is quite rare to find not enough rocker arm end-play on an Airhead. But if you were to come cross such a situation you'd be correct to loosen one nut and tap the rocker arm in the direction of the loosened nut. Then re-torque and inspect. Thanks for the question.
I'm wondering if you have a video on rebuilding ATE calipers and or master cylinders? That's my next job... Thanks!!
Got all clearances adjusted except for one. I think the lock nut on the left side exhaust is stripped. Won't back all the off so the only way for it to sit is so the clearance is completely touching the spring area. Is this ok.
My manual (BMW user manual) has these torque values: 15Nm/25Nm/35Nm.
Should I torq the 3rd time to 40Nm? Why?
You're welcome.
Hey Chris,
Do you have a video showing how to do the valve adjustment etc on a 2001 1150 GS?
Thank you!
Marcel
Yes, informative.
Hello Chris, I am doing a valve adjustment on a 1973 R75/5 and was wondering if you could explain something for me. First is top gear you mean the highest gear correct ? I have a 4speed so it will be 4th gear? And also how do I know which side to adjust first ? Sorry I'm new to these airheads and I am trying to learn. Thanks, abe
2nd, can I start the bike up without putting the covers back on to see if it still works, sounds right? Thanks, you're awesome.
Hey Chris, great video, wish it was longer. Couple of questions. In the 7 minute range when you are adjusting the valves with the butter knife things, should the re not be any play? I can't seem to lock it so it stays in place. I followed your instructions at minute 9 as far as tightening but there is still a little movement. The clearance is .20 mm for the exhaust but when I remove the butter knife thing I can jiggle it and it closes the gap. Do I just need to tighten it more?
Thanks man.
You are most welcome.
Last thing. Adjusted clearance on right side of the bike, rotated wheel and adjusted left side. When I looked at the right side the clearance changed drastically. Is that normal?
Compression stroke being when the springs are "compressed" down?
Hi Garth,
Andre Extra Dry champagne. Thanks! ;)
If I get up to New Hampshire, what kind of beer is your preference?
Hi, You need to remove the transmission. Since CZcams doesn't allow us to post links please search BMW Service - R100 Spline Lube Part 1 of 4 for instructions to remove the transmission. Good luck, Chris
You adjust the valve gaps of the left side when the flywheel is at OT and the left piston is at the start of its compression stroke. Then you rotate a full turn to the compression stroke of the right side and adjust those valve gaps. Is that correct?
No, that´s not correct and the video doesn´t shows a part that is very important. When you inspect and check for the OT mark, it means that ONE of the pistons will be on the TDC (top dead center). It doesn´t says left or right, this is something that you need to check. How to do it? Easy. When you see the mark, one of the pistons is on the tdc and both of the valves will be closed. If you check then to the opposite side, the other piston will be at a moment when the valves are opening/closing, the push rods are acting over them and you DO NOT have to do the adjustment on this side. YOU MUST ADJUST THE SIDE where the valves are both closed and the piston is on the top position (you can easily see it watching how the valves act while you rotate the wheel, and you can insert something too into the spark plug hole and "feel" how the piston moves up and down) ALSO, you can try to move the push rods: at the TDC, when the piston is at the top position, you can rotate them easily. THIS is the side that you must adjust. (if you move to the other side, you´ll see clearly how you can´t rotate the push rods, because they are pushing the valves)
OK, after the side adjustment (whatever the side you adjusted), just move the wheels again 360 degrees until you find the OT mark again, and you will see that the side you adjusted, is not on the TDC now, the valves are crossing, but the other side WILL BE at the TDC. Go to the other side and adjust it... DONE.
Chris, Since yesterday I have re-done the valve clearances THREE TIMES and they still aren't right. Each time there's an almighty clatter from the left hand cylinder head. After the failed second attempt, I whipped off the rocker cover to find the exhaust valve clearance of about 4mm instead of 0.2mm. Yet I am certain I set them correctly. I think the problem is that when the OT is in the window, which side gets adjusted? This isn't clear in the video, and unless I know, I shall keep repeating this mistake. So I adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke? How do I now it's the compression stroke and not the inlet stroke?
Bmw R80RT 1995 (EUR), what is the torque value of Hex Nut (part number:11127650402)? What is the value of intake valve and exhaust?(not torque value)
Thanks!
Welcome!
Each 360 degree rotation of the crankshaft from Top Dead Center brings the other cylinder to Top Dead Center so yes, if you have adjusted one side and rotated the crank 360 degrees the side that you had already adjusted will likely have no clearance because that cylinder is no longer at TDC, the opposing cylinder, however, is at TDC.
Chris Harris, i fucked up and did the left side first, then rotated 360 deg to the next OT, and tried doing the right side. Will this work or do I have to start again
great vids mate how the f__- do I change the oil filter on a oil cooler and rt fairing 87 mono looks bloody awkward any tips .
gareth, the later models have a split in the lower part of the lower side fairing panels. You unfasten the panel and then slightly twist the panel to open the seam and allow the panel to be removed from the exhaust pipe. Then you remove the 3 Allen head bolts securing the oil filter cover / cooler thermostat housing and move it out of the way to enable the oil filter to be removed. Pay close attention to the order of shim and o-ring and square o-ring that might be there. Not all are the same. Not all are correct, either. Good luck.
What did I say @ 2:14? You are correct in that the fiche shows merely a wave washer. However, the majority of Airheads that I have serviced over the past 20 years have had combinations of wave, flat, double flat, double wave, etc. Often a customer instsalled flat washers to the wave washers for whatever personal reason. I am not one to 'correct' that if there is no harm in the practice of using a flat along w/ a wave washer. Therefore, as I stated, many times you find... but all are not needed.
Chris Harris, are you in NH? I was wondering if you still have a shop I may have some work for you thanks
tell me who has these rockers available for any price? my sources don't even list a set for an R75/5 from 1971. i can't even get the bushings.