BMW Airhead Mechanicals #5 - Final Drive
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2020
- Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
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Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
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This new series will be focusing on the maintenance and repair of Airheads. Quite a lot of this mechanical work would apply to 1981 and on airheads. This tutorial is using the former 1985 R80 RT that William converted to a 1985 R80 S variant in our last video series.
In this fifth episode William, walks you through how to recondition the final drive of your classic the right way. Learn how to disassemble the final drive, replace bearings and seals and how to overcome some of the obstacles you may encounter while working on your final drive. This episode applies to 1985+ Monolever BMW airheads. Follow along with William as he walks you through each step of the mechanical maintenance and repairs to keep these amazing bikes on the road. Always filled with great tricks to help you with your own Airhead project. Follow along our instructional videos for working on your own BMW Airhead Classic. Learn valuable tips from William to save you both time and money on your R2V build!
boxer2valve.com specializes in BMW motorcycles from 1969 to 1995. Showing you what can be done in your own garage with a little help from us. If you have any questions about your bike or one of ours, please don't hesitate to contact us!
See you on the road!-
Team Boxer 2 valve
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Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here:
www.boxer2valve.com/1981-on-mechanical-episode-05-85-final-drive.html
In the see of bad content this channel have 14k subscribers.... one of the best tootorials on YT.... just a proof how bad YT algorithm is ...
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You saved me a ton of frustration. I thought refreshing the monoshock RD bearings and seals after a spill gave it a good smack would be simple as it was on the K bikes. Not so. One of the wonderful things about getting older is that we drop the pretense that we can do anything. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em. Know when to farm the job out to a tooled-up expert.
This is the most informative video on a final drive rebuild and shimming that I've seen. Thank you for the clear explanation.
Thar’s a lot of work and aftermarket tools for a rebuilt. I would have no patience to rebuild one and just leave it to the pros like you. Cheers and great content.
Awesome! That was a tour de force, William. Thank you for another superb demonstration and your characteristic encouragement.
Glad you enjoyed it
These videos show how beautifully made these bikes are. Thanks William.
Great video on reconditioning the final drive William. Thank you for this and your other videos. I love your clear explanations and great camera work. First class all the way!
Glad it was helpful!
that was AWESOME INFO
Really appreciate the extra work to make the show go on! We all have a little extra time on our hands so it's very nice to watch your videos. Also, showing how to remove the bearings even tho you already did with the other final drive. That's going the extra mile!
Of course for me, If and when I have to rebuild my final drive, it's heading your way!
Again, thank you for all the extra work to show us how to do our own work.
As with the gear teeth on the ring and pinion gears, guess you had to replace one yourself, lol. Good luck on that!
Awesome work really clear info many thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Good video William. All the interference fits and many special tools required are a great incentive to correctly maintain your final drive. Don’t think I’ll be tackling this one. Luckily, I have a very low mileage spare final drive for my ‘93 R80RT if needed.
Thank you William.
You are very welcome
Thank you William and Jeff/Geoff...for you great camera work, as I have said before....where were you in the 80's when I did my apprenticeship, fantastic instruction and knowledge A+
That's going to be a very smooth 'bike when you finish, William. The precision and care you are giving to this work is really impressive.
Looking after the minor little part (tooth) failures in our bodies can sometimes take second place to getting a motorcycle into good shape.
That's one job BMW (or you) didn't happen to have a special tool to suit. Maybe Liqui Moly have a tube of white cement that you could try?
In the meantime you might continue to look like a charming, cheeky rascal while continuing to develop the Boxer's perfect style.
Hi, like you say... Cool. Congratulations and thanks
Hey, thanks!
Thanks William
Looks really technic and need a lot of special tools but, really nice to know it
Don’t forget some liquimoly to fix your own tooth!. 😄😉
Hi @William, absolutely great stuff.. You are a natural in front of a camera.. I have a 1987 R80RT which I’m restoring and I ordered a gasket for it, but can now see you reassemble without it. I didn’t find one on disassembly, but thought it just deteriorated over time.. So now my question is whether I should use the one I bought or not? By the way, I can’t find the torque setting for the 8 housing bolts in my Haynes, can you share those? Thanks a ton, Chris from Denmark
Is the drain plug on the final drive the same plug as the one on the /5 models? My threads are buggered and I need to Helicoil them. Do you know the correct size insert it needs?
Exelent video, I do need to have alook at mine here in New Zealand but I am still wondering how I re revit the drive dog on the the rear wheel on my R80/7, I have seen people explaning bolting them back in with aircraft fasteners but will it work?
Great video but if you have to buy all these special tools to take apart a BMW it might become an expensive project. I took apart an old Honda CB and I only needed like 3 special tools. 30€ (30$) in total and the complete bike came apart. A BMW is well engendered as is a Honda but you need a lot more special equipment which makes it expensive and complicated. I'm a huge BMW fan but I'm afraid to restore one due to the complexity.
scares me to think what the inside of mine looks like as as best i know it has never been apart. this job is beyond my abilities to perform properly. its a testament to bmw engineering how durable the final drive units are. 125k on mine.
great stuff thx for sharing where can u buy the pullers you are using thx again
Love these videos, Thanks to Jedi mechanic William!!!
Thanks for watching!
Hey John, When I put the pinion drive back together there is a little bit of play in the shaft back and forth. Should there be any play in there or not? Like if I grab on the end of the bolt I can push it back and forth about 1/16th of an inch.
William you are an absolute joy to watch; thankyou so much for taking the time (and Camera Guy) to make these super instructive vids. I ve always been curious about Bevel Drive re-furbs (I have a 1991 Mono R80rt) and this was fascinating to watch. Id have no hesitation in sending you my Bevel Drive if recon is needed - must find out shipping, etc from UK; do you have customers from this far a field? Great work. BTW: did you ever find those bits that rolled off the bench around 1:03:55 and 1:12:44 ? Lol. Nice to know it happens to the best of us! All the best from the UK, take care.
Thanks for you comments. We do have some components being sent to us from outside the US. Farthest away so far is a motor and gearbox from Germany! Things do fall down sometimes but are mostly always found. The floor sweepings are carefully inspected! You take care too!
Man, and I thought rebuilding the gearbox was a pain in the ass. Nice job! Also, I like that sealant you are using. Is that similar to Hylomar Blue?
The blue machinist's dye showed the pinion was contacting the drive gear in the middle/towards the outside of the teeth,. I expected you to try to make an adjustment so the teeth meshed together as uniformly as possible. It seemed like they were only making two thirds of the ideal amount of contact. Would love to hear a little more on that. Keep up the excellent work.
Matt: The type of gears in the final drive are known as klingenberg. There's information out there if you search for it. You don't want to achieve a full engagement of the teeth, so it's about where they make contact. Ideal is not quite in the middle of gear but slightly towards the wider end of the gear. Have a look on-line and you will most likely find illustrations of the ideal contact patterns. It's also referenced in the repair manuals.
Hi William! I have a R45 from 1979. I don't know if this is a stupid question but I feel like I only have 4 gears. On some pages I can see that there should be 5 :) does that mean I have a problem with my final gear? My final gear looks a bit different than the one you just operated on.
Hi William, Can you advise what torque you did the bolts to when you put everything back together please. Danny.
Hi, should be 17-18NM
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier Thankyou.
Hi Will, thank you very much, this is very helpful. It is the first time (finally!!!) that I can see how the backlash is measured.
You have the power to make things looks very easy to do.
Sharing your experience is very appreciated, especially these days that we all have extra time at home.
Any idea where it would it be possible to buy the tools for the backlash measurement? Or at least the BMW part numbers.
Can I use them on a 1983 R100RS as well (dual shocks).
Thank you again and looking forward to the next video. Cheers and stay safe!
I can see R35 cases ready for assembly.
That tool you are using.. is that supposed to push out a lining of the brake cam going through (where you mention the o-rings before abruptly going to "the tool")?? Normally if you, as a repair option, have lined the way of the brake axel, you don't need o-rings. Really confused, and not convinced that you know what you are doing. the holes that the brake axel goes through to reach the cam and thereby the braking shoes, is not normally lined (hence the o-rings)??????
Hi William,
Excellent video tutorials - thank you!
I hope that eventually you will get round to working on a paralever (I have a R100GSPD), especially the transmission and the front forks and steering head. Have a great weekend! Ernie
Great suggestion! I do have an R100 GS that we might get around to doing some things to.
Nice job will.as all ways.
Two (heat ) guns will fastest draw in west
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