BMW R90/6 #9: Re-sealing the cylinders by boxer2valve.com
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
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Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-9-re...
In this episode learn how to reseal the cylinders, remove the whole exhaust system in one fell swoop & adjust the valves.
Learn valuable tips from William to save you both time and money on your R2V build!
boxer2valve.com specializes in BMW motorcycles from 1969 to 1995. This is our first video of our R90/6 revival. Showing you what can be done in your own garage with a little help from us. If you have any questions about your bike or one of ours, please don't hesitate to contact us!
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-9-re-sealing-the-cylinders-tutorial.html
The experience in the field of these older motorcycles is dying away, videos like yours are a huge help for people that still own these machines, BMW made these motors robust engineered with simple adjustments that would not harm the motor if they were a little out of adjustment over the short use before doing maintenance. However, general Maintenance, valve adjustment, carburetor synchronization, changing the lubricants, filters, the timing of the machine are all periodotic care of the overall performance that has to be done, thing is, Who? most mechanics are in their thirties at these cycle shops, they don't know what to do if there isn't a data port plug-in someplace. I just want to give a thank you for your dedication to these wonderful machines and for putting these tutorials together. an average person with basic mechanical skills can do the maintenance themselves and that's the way BMW designed them. That also is a dying commodity. Peace Brother. -Dave
Love your videos. I know it takes a lot of time and effort to make them and I certainly appreciate!
Makes me want my 73 R75/5 back! Your videos are fantastic. I used to watch the master technician at Doc Baum’s shop in Colorado Springs work on air heads back in the 70’s. Those were wonderful days. They always helped a touring customer or a poor college student like myself to stay on the road.
William I just watched one of your videos for the first time. I've watched many other repair videos before this but I have to say yours are the most professional I've seen. Clear and concise. Terrific.
Thank you Mr William, we appreciate your support.
Another AirHead great video from you....thank you so much for it.
best video's on youtube, thankyou.
Hi William, these videos are a great education on airheads! So many of the airhead tech articles on the internet are poorly written, have few reference photos, and are generally tedious. You're a great teacher and the production values are top quality. You've made me a happy customer, too (just bought a set of low bars and control cables last week). Thank you!
Thanks very much for your kind words. We are very fortunate to have Jeff on our staff and he does all of the camera work and editing, plus he provides incredible input during our filming sessions. We are trying to condense the videos so that they are watchable yet the important details are shown. Jeff is really the mastermind. I'm just trying to show what I still remember from 30+ years ago. Without Jeff, these videos would not exist.
You are making great videos ! Thank you a lot from France :)
I'm glad to find your videos and I now have new inspiration to get my 60/7 up and running.
Right on!
Great video, thank you very much for sharing it, very informative
Hi Luis, thanks for letting us know that the videos are helpful!
Super film , dzięki za szkolenie .
Another excellent one! Thank you! Appreciate you mentioning and showing the special tools available. Wish I had known about the wrist pin extractor. Also like that cool trick to install one wrist pin snap ring in advance when reinstalling. They are not fun to install.
This is so good! thank you so much!
Thank you so much for the incredible, detailed, teaching on the R 90. I have a 79 R 100 that I will start working on in the near future and your videos are GREAT! You guys are awesome! I am looking forward to the next video.
Don Willie from California
Hi Don, thanks for your kind words and sorry about the late reply! We will keep 'em coming!
Awesome video!! Been searching in vain for this kind of information to work on my 75/5. This is so clear and thorough and pleasant watch! Thank you so much! :))
Hi Per, Thanks very much! I'm so happy that we can help you!
Excellent video - everything good here, your knowledge, the way you present it but also the camera angles and lighting so that we can see all of the neccessary detail - this really is great stuff . . Thank you . .
Awesome, thank you!
Mike McAllister
Once again, thank you for your very informative videos! Really helps with my own confidence on working on my R100. Another thing that is great, is that the parts you offer and the special tools seem to make the project easier being able to get the right parts in package form for a particular job.
In this video, I noticed that the head and piston looked very clean. I think it would be helpful to have some comments on the condition of the said parts. In the past videos you have mentioned various parts condition and I appreciate that. I know that everything cannot be covered or there would be a class to attend. You are doing a great job! Thank you again!
Thanks Mike. We are trying to make it easy and fun. Motorcycles are supposed to be fun!
I wish these had been around 25 years ago when I first delved inside the mechanics of my airhead. really enjoying watching these, and its a pleasure to watch someone who knows just what they are doing. BTW your bearing packing trick is one I will make use of in the future.
Hi, Thanks very much. I'm glad that you can benefit from this information.
Thank you from San Antonio !
How could anyone not like this video? More evidence that if you don't have haters, you're not doing it right.
That may be true! Thanks.
agradezco enormemente la forma como va creando el video , es didáctico y ayuda a entender cómo va montado y qué detalles se deben considerar. Aún cuando no soy mecánico me apasiona entender sobre estas máquinas que son una maravilla. Agradezco nuevamente estos videos .
We are really happy that you enjoy these videos. Thanks for watching.
Granted, it's been almost 40 years since I did the top end on my much-missed R75/5, but it seems to me like I had to set end lash on those rocker arms at something like .004 or .006 or something with a feeler gauge, and that it was a pain in the butt trying to keep that lash while torquing the head bolts. Your method seems a lot easier and I'm going to have to do it pretty soon on a recently acquired R90/6 that has been sitting for about 25 years. Actually, I'm going to have to be doing pretty much everything on this whole series of vids, so they are a godsend for me. Thank you so much.
Hi. The method works well for me and I have showed many technicians that approach and it is proven in my opinion.
Amazing job
Last year I replaced my pushrod tubes and I have had difficulty finding information on how far to drive in the new tubes. I need to replace the seals again. Thanks Dave
As a Bosch trained tech, it was very nice to watch a Pro doing a video as opposed to all the junk yards hacks with a cell phone.
I notice you only wear hand protection when switching to the left side cylinder.... (Great work - keep it up!)
I just scored a 1974 R90/6 from my Uncle :) He bought it with 1100 miles on it and it currently has 2143 miles but it needs to be brought back to its original glory ! I thought about turning it into a Bobber but I don't have the heart to do it lol Thank you so much for doing these video's. I will be contacting you for parts soon !
do not destroy this beautiful bike please
My r60/5 is period custom and out shines any bobber or cafe airhead in town for chick appeal. Yours is among the first bmw super bikes more valuable and versatile intact.
I wish I had a shop teacher like you in High School
Thanks very much for your kind words!
Thank you that was a lot of good information .
Glad it was helpful!
These are great videos, wish I had them when I started working on my '74 R90 or '72 R50. I have to say this is the first time I've ever seen rocker arm float adjusted with a hammer haha! Well done!
Thanks again for another great video and informative commentary. Regarding the valve cover gaskets I wanted to point out that BMW gaskets have printing on one side for a reason. The printed side contains a heat released sealant and the printed side goes towards the head. The heat from the heads release the sealant making a bond so the gasket stays put when you remove the valve cover for service. Done properly they will last up to ten years. There should be no need for any silicone or other sealant here. If the valve covers leak they are not tight or they are warped. Warped cover can be identified by putting them on a flat pane of glass and sliding a feeler gauge underneath. Short term fix is to use silicone gaskets but not tighten them too much.
That's great information! Thanks very much for your input!
ten years, mine have lasted 46 years and 150K+ miles and still don't leak. And yes they don't need sealant.
Gracias. Buen trabajo
I'm learning a lot; thank you! I am wondering why you didn't lap in the valves while you had the heads off and check the guide clearance. I don't know if these engines have valve seals but if they do I'd use the opportunity to change those too. Very helpful series; bravo!
Awesome!
Great video on that topic. What about the OT position being in 5th gear for centering the valves? You did that thing with that air sound. What procedure is better?
Great video, really helpful. Thanks! ;T
Glad you enjoyed it!
You. Mentioned that the valve cover gasket is directional but didn't say which side goes against the head. Great videos.
The gasket when closely examined has one side that is smooth, with a silky surface, and the other side less so, with a paper surface, often with printing visible. It's the smooth side that you want facing the valve cover. The paper side should be towards the head and use some adhesive such as Gaskacinch so that the gasket stays attached to the head whenever the valve cover is removed.
thanks for all the work on video. why you dont test for leaks on valves leaks between the valves and the seed ? that's vital for good compression...
Hey William, really enjoy your work in putting these videos together. I'm currently working on a 89 R100rs but the electrics with the diode board etc are totally mixed up and wondered if you could do a video maybe explaining what the setup is, or direct me on another website or CZcams clip which can help me. Thanks again for the really well explained detailed videos, really helpful. Regards from Paul, Salisbury in South Australia.
Hi thanks so much , really clear and make me the suggestion to do it proplery. thanks a lot.
Glad to hear that!
Great video.. The circlip on the piston is a big problem for me. Any chance of a closeup on that??😄
Thanks William. I used your video (and your wrist pin tool) to replace the push rod seals on my 1982 BMW R100. Everything worked great except that oil is leaking out my cylinder bases. I assumed (probably incorrectly) that I didn't need silicone gasket maker because I have O-rings (not paper gaskets) on the cylinder bases. And I was concerned about blocking the oil ports. I plan to pull them again and apply silicone gasket maker unless you have another idea?
I answered my own question by pulling the jugs and finding the tiny o-rings crushed because I was not careful enough. This time I put a little grease on the o-rings to keep them in place and was more careful. I also added a thin layer of gasket maker to the crankcase where the cylinder sits because of snowbum's recommendation. On to the next job!
Great video! I notice that you do not go into "squaring up" the rocker blocks during reassembly, which I've seen emphasized in other articles-- My impression was that the blocks were self aligning in the later bikes, but only in the last of the /6 series. Do you have advice on this, or do you feel like as long as the rocker shaft end play "feels" good and the pushrods are moving freely, that thins are lined up sufficiently?
elliot rappaport later ones are self aligning but need shims to take up end float. I made some custom rocker pillars for my /5 that lock in place and they quietened the rockers a bit.
Hi William. When going over an old airhead that's been standing idle for a long while, 24 years in my projects case. Would you replace the piston rings as a matter of course? Do they lose their spring? I don't have a compression tester. Thanks, I enjoy your videos very much.
What are your thoughts on resealing the cilinders without taking the head off the cilinder, to avoid replacing headgaskets? So you leave the top and bottom head nuts in place, maybe untorque them a bit along with the long cilinder studs, then proceed with the reseal as shown.
Hi, would it be poosible to know the thickness of the gasket please. Thanks.
Dear William
if I've switched around The pushrods and cant figure out where they was installed - then what to do.
Thanks a lot for your videos.
That's not a terrible thing. Ideally, they should go back where they were but no damage will be caused if not.
Mr. William: should the slots on the cam followers be in a particular orientation, or do they rotate? Also, valve cover gaskets should have the printing on the outside? I am very grateful for your work. I hope to meet you some day.
William, would I be right assuming that since you found TDC on one side I wouldnt have to find it on the other.
what glue was used for your cover that had the swab ?
Another great video... wanted to ask, can I put the cylinder head in a solvent tank with the valves still in? Or do I have to remove the valves to have it clean properly?
You can. It's always best to take it apart though.
Great video and I was wondering if you offer new lifters ? I looked but didn't see them listed and also, I hope your move is going well :)
Yes, part# 1132638.
@@boxer2valve Thank you
I have a leak from the top nut after the rocker cover comes off, the one behind the spark plug, what would cause this? Thankyou.
Brilliant information. I really like the way you work, none of the stupid macho act & cussing all the time' that so many mechanics on CZcams seem to think is totally necessary , I think they watch too much American Chopper.
Interesting insight. Thanks for the comment.
Hi William. You mention as you're removing the cylinder that it looks ok, that you can still see the cross-hatching. Should my '85 R80 have the same cross-hatching?
You should still see some cross hatching, even on a used motor. It's possible to lightly hone the cylinder and install new rings in many cased, but the cylinders and pistons should be measured to make sure everything is in spec.
Hi There, great vidoes. I have a /7 and have found aftermarket base gaskets for this model. Do you reccomend using the O-Ring and the base gasket or one or the other? If the latter which would you suggest? I know the o-rings are nutorious for leaking? Thank you.
The large O-ring is NOT used on models before 9/80 production (81 model year). Base gaskets will lower compression. I suggest clear silicone sealer which should be used in any case.
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier thanks for the reply. When I dismantled the bike it had a large o-ring, I added a base gasket without silicone and unsurprisingly I have a leak. Do you recommend removing the o-ring and using a base gasket with a bit of silicone? Do you also use silicone on the sump gasket? Thanks James
Do you have to turn the engine 360° to do the other side? Thank you very much the video was awesome.
Yes, one complete 360 degree revolution.
I always thought that 40 NM on the studs are too high. Usually 35 NM do the job good enough, especially if the engine saw a lot of mileage. Better to have a little oil mist than pulling the stud.
Shouldn't the opening of the rocker arm block not be facing away from the cylinder head? In the other playlist it is done correctly, here they are facing to the front of the bike. Is that important or not an issue? You don't talk about assembling the rocker arm parts in this video.
Hi do you guys have a video on how to install dyna ignition on an r90 ?
No yet, but we have it on the plan. Stay Tuned .
How many miles on this engine. The damaged lifters are why I ask.
Mr William, That lifter was pretty gnarly. Was it the only one that had the pitting? I instantly thought cam replacement right after the entire rear end was resealed. When resealing a bike. Would it be better to start with the heads and then work backwards, in the event you run across camshaft damage? Thank you for all your work on these videos. Super informative, and I love the tips for fabricating factory tools.
Yes, that's a good point. Probably starting with the heads and cylinders is the best strategy.
Thank you sir. Only wish I knew half of what you’ve probably have forgotten on these old girls.
Bonjour, je voudrais connaitre le jeu à l'admission ? et à l'échappement? BMX 90/6 de 1974. Merci. Jacques
Very interesting. However, one thing isn't quite right (in my opinion): in my experience, you can see the total km (ml) the engine has run by the color of the inside of the cylinder head cover. After a lot of km the valve stem guides will develop some play and hot gasses will enter the head cover, especially at the exhaust valve. This will turn the whole thing brown with time. The bike seemed to have a lot of miles on the odometer, especially after finding replaced clutch. However, the cylinder head you were removing was very clean, no spec of brown visible. I think you had removed and cleaned the complete head (probably in a ultrasonic bath) before disassembling it again for the camera.
The second thing I think is a little problematic: you didn't check oil flow to the valve drive before mounting the head cover. Usually this is done by turning the engine (with oil, of course) with the starter, but without plugs and carbs until the oil pressure light goes off. If everything is all right (and your silicone at the gaskets didn't block anything) oil should be come out of the valve drive. If there is no oil coming, the valve drive is going to be ruined quite quickly.
All in all, your videos are excellent and it's obvious that you've forgotten more about these 2V-boxers then a lot of people working on them have ever learned. Thank you!
What do you consider high miles (km) on these old boxer engine?
At 2:12 into the video you mention a link to your Tech Tip regarding cutting the exhaust nuts off, but I don't see it here or in your listing of videos. Could you post it here or send me a link? Thanks, and thanks for the well done and informative videos, very much appreciated.
Here's the link: www.boxer2valve.com/instructions/Exhaust%20Nut%20Removal.pdf
We will get that linked in a better way as soon as possible.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Thanks for the link guys, had to cut an exhaust nut off this evening, I had to remove a couple of wings first as I was using a cutting tool in a cordless drill and needed clearance for the chuck, other than that it went exactly as per your instructions. I’m well pleased 👍
www.boxer2valve.com/Merchant5/instructions/Exhaust_Nut_Removal.pdf
Do you have an Facebook page ??
Why is it better to leave the piston in the cylinder?
If you are just doing a cylinder re-seal and have no intention of replacing the pistons or rings, leaving the pistons in the cylinders allows you to avoid potentially damaging the rings or introducing any dirt or debris, and saves you the work of reinstalling them. When reinstalling the cylinders in all cases, it's a lot more efficient to have the pistons already inside the cylinders. You need to work quickly, before the sealant starts to set up and fumbling around with getting the pistons and rings in properly adds an unneeded level of stress. And in addition, it's a lot easier to insert the pistons in a relaxed and controlled environment, on your work bench.
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier thank you for responding. Less disassembly the better, especially for novices and not having the exact tool for every step. I ordered all the stuff for the cylinder resealing. As soon as the clip rings come I’ll start. Watched the video 4 times so I should be good 😱
@@Cweinig Piston rings can fracture twisting off or break without good tools, if you have new rings to put on it can give you more time before a bore though so you can swap them if you slip jug off. These are some of the best info tutorials in practical repair I have seen in 15 years here.
tip from a non-pro: don't use old/hard push rod seals. They will split and you will have to do the job all over again (guess how I know)
Thanks !!
Can I please be your apprentice
What your shop number I have a 1974 r90/s I need some parts
Me.gustaría.en.español
Thanks Felix