It’s so helpful to learn about the top end parts and their assembly. You break it all down very clearly so that someone that hasn’t done it can have more knowledge and confidence. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and demonstrations.
206coconutz, you have clearly stated why I have devoted more than a decade to writing, and over five years filming, my rebuild/restoration projects. If I share the knowledge, I think folks gain confidence they can do the work. These old airheads are only going to survive if the owners can do the required maintenance, as many BMW dealerships are not interested in working on them due to lack of mechanics with the requisite knowledge about them.
Thank you for sharing your video.As always excellent job making your video great information for the airhead engine rebuild .l enjoyed it very much. Appreciate it thank you and happy biking .
Fantastically clear explanation. Thank you. My Clymer manual says to distribute rings 120 degrees apart. No mention of thrust faces. Your recommended "clock" positions do not honor the 120 degree (4 hours) recommendation. Would you kindly expand so we can understand the trade-off involved.
Thank you for your clear expression.I tear down my 80 GS with your videos and restrored it :) But also can you please make a video about setting ignition timing with the bean can (ignition sensor)engines.I don't know how to set it and don't want to do something wrong.
Aclan, eventually I'll prepare the engine for the first engine start. I'll show how to statically set the ignition timing with the electronic ignition, and I can show how to use a timing light to dynamically adjust the ignition timing.
Thanks for the detailed video. I see that when you re-torque the nuts after waiting for them to set for 24 hours, you continue from the torque they were instead of backing them out just a tad bit. Would there be a disadvantage in loosening each one of them just to take the torque off before checking the torque again? I feel a bit anxious retorqueing an already torqued nut... 😬
With a torque wrench you can't exceed the torque you require. So, when I retorque, I'm checking to see if the fastener is loose. If the wrench clicks at the torque setting, the nut is not loose. There is no danger in this.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage that's comforting to hear. I have a project in progress with two stripped threads, and I blame myself for originally stripping them despite using a torque wrench and being extremely careful to apply 20/30/35 Nm during the valve clearance checks. Your videos and pages have proven to be invaluable preparing for the repair. 🙏
It’s so helpful to learn about the top end parts and their assembly. You break it all down very clearly so that someone that hasn’t done it can have more knowledge and confidence. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and demonstrations.
206coconutz, you have clearly stated why I have devoted more than a decade to writing, and over five years filming, my rebuild/restoration projects. If I share the knowledge, I think folks gain confidence they can do the work.
These old airheads are only going to survive if the owners can do the required maintenance, as many BMW dealerships are not interested in working on them due to lack of mechanics with the requisite knowledge about them.
Fantastic resource! Thank you sincerely for this and all your excellent instructional videos! 🙏
You're welcome Richard. 🙂
Beautiful engine and thorough video I’m about to to install my freshly done heads thanks very much
Thank you Dale 😊
Thank you for sharing your video.As always excellent job making your video great information for the airhead engine rebuild .l enjoyed it very much. Appreciate it thank you and happy biking .
Thanks Ken.
Enjoying your thoroughly presented maintenance videos. Thank you for the information/instructions.
You're welcome Log Jam. I hope they help you keep your airhead running
Fantastically clear explanation. Thank you. My Clymer manual says to distribute rings 120 degrees apart. No mention of thrust faces. Your recommended "clock" positions do not honor the 120 degree (4 hours) recommendation. Would you kindly expand so we can understand the trade-off involved.
My information on ring positioning comes from Bob Fleischer, aka Snowbum, one of the most knowledgeable airhead mechanics.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Snowburn is the king....thank you
Travail remarquable, merci beaucoup pour le partage.
Samir, Merci pour les mots gentils.
Thank you for your clear expression.I tear down my 80 GS with your videos and restrored it :) But also can you please make a video about setting ignition timing with the bean can (ignition sensor)engines.I don't know how to set it and don't want to do something wrong.
Aclan, eventually I'll prepare the engine for the first engine start. I'll show how to statically set the ignition timing with the electronic ignition, and I can show how to use a timing light to dynamically adjust the ignition timing.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thank you :) Both will be so helpful for us to run our airheads more healthy!You are the best :)
Thanks for the detailed video. I see that when you re-torque the nuts after waiting for them to set for 24 hours, you continue from the torque they were instead of backing them out just a tad bit. Would there be a disadvantage in loosening each one of them just to take the torque off before checking the torque again? I feel a bit anxious retorqueing an already torqued nut... 😬
With a torque wrench you can't exceed the torque you require. So, when I retorque, I'm checking to see if the fastener is loose. If the wrench clicks at the torque setting, the nut is not loose. There is no danger in this.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage that's comforting to hear. I have a project in progress with two stripped threads, and I blame myself for originally stripping them despite using a torque wrench and being extremely careful to apply 20/30/35 Nm during the valve clearance checks. Your videos and pages have proven to be invaluable preparing for the repair. 🙏
@@lpalokan I wish you success on your repair. 🙂