How To Replace An Outer Tie Rod End Properly
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2015
- These are the Motorcraft Tie Rod Ends I installed and recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
Blue medium strength Loctite-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Red High strength loctite-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
In this video we go over some of the key points of replacing an outer tie rod end on a 2003 Ford Expedition. This procedure applies to most vehicles although specs may differ. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Ford wanted $490.00, local trusted shop wanted $310.00. After watching this video I changed the tie rod end on my 2015 F150 in 15 minutes for $61.00. No shakes, no shimmy's no pulls. THANK YOU!!!
This is by far the best tutorial on how to install new tie rod ends. Others would mark the thread where the old ones sit, but that only applies if both old and new have the same length. I called shops and they’re charging at least $200+ for both. Looking forward doing it myself once my new tires arrive so I can just mount them and do the alignment altogether. Thanks again for this comprehensive video!
All the CZcams videos and no one has ever mentioned the hex holding feature. I am blown away by how easily you turned what my worst nightmare would be into a piece of cake. You just earned a like and subscribe from me!
I know, right! Mind blown.
The problem is, not all tie rods have that hex holding feature. I'm pretty sure people looking for a solution to that same problem don't have that feature, like I didn't lmao. You pretty much have to cut the thing at that point.
Edwin Correa - never forget - if it acts up - sawzall it up..
They also have something similar on the top part of the rear struts but instead of hex the use a 2 flat sided that you can lock on with a crescent wrench or an irwing grip.
I just spent 3 hours wrestling with same bolt (underneath though) and ended up cutting it off with a die grinder. Every other video was talking about using jacks, breaker bars etc. and. nobody mentioned this at all. Wish I had. discovered this video first!
Im a single Mom and I have an 04 Mercury Monterey (226k miles). If I can fix or do something myself I will, and this guy has helped me do so much to maintain the up keep on my van. Thanks for the videos! Saved so much money
You’re the only one on CZcams that’s done it the right way rather than counting all
those turns. 😆 thanks man. I think I will save a lot of money.
My dealer wanted $365 to change the driver side outer tie rod end and $120 to re balance my wheels, After watching Brian I’m going to buy the Ford rod and do it myself. With Covid 19 I don’t have the money anyway, thanks bro.
It's October 2023 today! I went to get an alignment and they could because the tie rods were loose. They wanted $575!!! to replace them on both sides. I looked up your video and watched it. I followed your instructions and it was very simple to accomplish. Thx for taking the time to educate us. Bob
I own a 04 Lincoln navigator and I always come to this Man to get info and spec's 👏
03 expedition, always come to his channel
Still watching after six years… Great outter tie rod end lesson Brian 💪🏿
You are the 1st person who I have ever seen that measures the distance, most people try to count the threads of rotation. I have a 96 Jeep GC and all my front end parts were original so I decided to replace the tie rod ends, drag link, etc. at the same time including the sleeves so I disconnected as a unit then measured total length, set the sleeves in the middle and when I brought it down for an alignment the guy was surprised how close the toe was, while it was apart I also replaced the steering box and pitman arm and track bar, the only parts I didn't replace were the ball joints,i think all the parts including a rebuilt steering box was about 700.00. I could only imagine what a garage would have charged. I later replaced all the control arms with iron man tubular fixed units and I paid 400.00 and the garage wanted about 560.00 labor to install because the book called for about 45 mins per unit and there are 8 so I just did it myself, they have poly bushings so that smooth GC ride is gone- Suspension work on the ground can be a PITA though
+jim dandy Yeah I prefer the measuring technique that way it is at least close.
Counting turns is the hillbilly ways and rarely works as different tie rods manufacturer are different lengths.. I've always measured...
Every video I watch on this process people count threads, I knew there was something special about you when you used logic. Measuring the points has to be the best way to get it as close as possible to the prior alignment.
Except O T rod end finger movement. I'd use a small square to ensure the finger is 90 degrees..noticed he had to move the finger on the new end After Measure Testing before putting it through the upper knuckle..oops. Don't get me wrong this Man is the best.
Yeah thats awesome. And Measuring like that I think would work even in my case where Im changing both inner and outer and switching manufactors...
Thanks! I've been doing front end maintenance on all my vehicles for almost 30 years, and I have never thought of that it's the best idea I've seen.
You do some of the best mechanic videos I've seen!
Another thing that is cool is he doesn't blab blab blab. He goes right into the job, only giving us complete instructions. Some YT video's are full of cross talk, or a ton of personal talking, which usually doesn't even apply to the task at hand. Defiantly going to subscribe to this channel because if I wanted to hear all kinds of stories about other vehicles or some other issue. CZcams is full of those type of repair channels, so I'd do a search for another channel if I'd rather want to hear a ton of bla-bla-bla....
Thank you so much, I would’ve been lost as hell without this video and your tips on older ford tips and tricks
A+ video! Clear, concise and well documented. This video will help a lot of folks through the process...
Excellent video. Easily understood, excellent lighting, clear instructions and why. This has helped me greatly. Thanks
Great video. Following your tips, I was able to change out my outer tie rod end with ease. Thank you
Followed this and replaced my outer tie rod on a 2013 Explorer. Just make sure you have a 22mm (most likely) combo wrench and deep socket to torque it properly. I had to run to the parts store for the socket since my standard set didn’t have that high. Job was pretty easy, no impact driver, and alignment still good 👍
You make learning fun and interesting,clear with confidence , thank you from a Ford Flex new owner in need of this repair .
Thanks the nice tips. Most of mechanics I dealt with told me to get alignment done after tie rod replacements. It is good to know there is a way to avoid alignment, no need to bang nor needing for special tools to released old tie rods.
Ford Tech Makuloco, this was a great video on how to install an outer tie rod on ford vehicles. Keep the content coming!!
Thx! U answered my question perfectly, my new part was shorter and I wanted to make sure before I took it off. Ur way makes perfect sense! Thx alot
Wow, 2003 Ford Expedition torque spec on locking nut is 26 lb-ft greater than 2007 Lincoln/Ford Mark LT/F-150. Glad I checked mine before I replace mine today. Thank you @FTM for another superb video! You are the man!
The first time I ever changed a tie rod end, it involved 2 pipe wrenches and a cheater bar... Let's just say, don't expect to be able to just twist it off by hand if you live in areas where roads get salted.
Thanks Makuloco! Great video, fixin to do this later today.
FordTechMakuloco Thank you so much for such a clear instruction video!! Recently at Pull A Part I was thinking there could be an Allen receptacle on the bottom of the ball to hold it with. And that I might see if I removed the cap below it. What stopped me was I saw no provision for getting the cap off, and thought that I would have to destroy it to do so. I'm delighted to find this extremely thorough video! Thanks to you I can go back there and pull out the Steering Rack I need :)
Brian thanks for sharing your technical knowledge
Love the way you do business bro. Awesome videos as always.
That hex holding feature trick...just wow dude thank you soo much your AWESOME
you put together great, informational videos. Thanks and keep up the good work!
That's what I called work smart and great hand work (SAFETY)👍🏼
very thoroughly explained :)
Excellent job on this video! Great explanation. Thanks!
Holy crap! I had NO IDEA it was this EASY to change tierods! Every few yrs I need new ones in the spring time and I was getting SPANKED 300$ finally decided to DIY it and took .e 30 mins cuz I had to get anti seize stuff and a torch wrench but other than that it was REALLY that easy. Love the measuring tip definitely one to remember! +1 sub. Bro keep making vids! Look fwd to seeing what else u do and have done!
You may need the special tool (it’s like a mini press, kind of like a c clamp) to pop it out of the knuckle. None of the Asian cars I’ve done this on have effortlessly popped out like that.
I"ve used your videos to work on my 2 F150s and you have saved me $$Thousands$$. I had to change spark plugs in my 04. With your guidance and the Lisle tool I knocked it out. 7 out of 8 were broken off in the cylinder. Many things on my 10 too. I'm going to replace my outer tie rods and this helped immensely.
My 04 F150, 73k miles, has original plugs. I want to do the job myself, but is the Lisle tool actually easy to use? I hope auto stores have them as loaners.
@@Funexpected With the low mileage, you might not need the tool. But you need to replace them ASAP.
@FordTechMakuloco. Although I'll be changing an outer tie rod end on a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, same applies to my vehicle as does your vehicle. I used a hand torch with Map gas. I heated the tie rod end right around the threaded area for about 5 minutes. I used two sets of 14'' Pipe Wrenches. That way the inner rod end was tight, couldn't slip plus I wired it to the suspension so it couldn't flip around. Then took the other Pipe Wrench & removed the end... Thanks for a great repair video that wasn't full of ''Bla-Bla-Bla'' talking that can make people wonder if they missed something or if it should just be taken in. Some guys start talking about all kinds of other stuff & then I'm wondering why I'm still watching the video ..So staying on topic helps.... Thanks for the upload. It always helps to watch someone doing the work first, just so ya don't miss anything....
Excellent video very informative and lots of useful information given your work is appreciated buddy.
Excellent instruction, I'll do this to my F250 this weekend, thanks much.
Thanks for the great videos! Just by chance I have an 03 Expedition and your tips have saved loads of time and headaches.
Awesome explained video, my wife said she could do it now so that tells you how good the video is, she has never picked up a tool.lmbo
Brother outstanding video, I greatly appreciate you!!!
excellent video you are a smooth mechanic doesn't waste time !!
Great video......how can you not like this!!
Extremely well done step by step video.
super helpful, tricks of the trade make all the difference
I like Moog because they are greaseable and have castle nuts. Hate nylock, had a stabilizer link with a nylock and ended up getting a regular nut and locktite. No room for an impact to spin it, and no flats to grab it!
I do my own work so I know they get greased, but alot of techs wont. Then again the Motorcraft ones last 100K miles with no service. I had to replace the inner/outer/sleeve on the Grand marquis. I ended up putting a jack with a tiny bit of pressure under the rotor, removing the old assembly and then putting the new linkage back into the same location by adjusting the sleeve. I've done R and P tierods like that too. The grease is important, on the old linkage with a sleeve they were impossible to separate.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Good video. Very clear and concise. Thanks!!!
Great video , first class,well done. Thank you Ron G
Nice clear step by step video thumbs way high n the sky...
Excellent video. Thank you!
I have a 08 F-150 and I had to replace the steering shaft to pass PA inspection. I did the job myself. The wheel was crooked when I got done so I went and got an alignment and had to replace the front struts and a lower ball joint. The shop fixed the issue from when the steering shaft was install while the truck was there for the alignment
thanks for the video.. I have changed all my ball joints and tie rods on my f150 and the feeling when driving is night and day..
Since my inner rods and tie rod ends were different in size than the ones originally installed, I figured an easy way to find alignment was to make a mark on top of the rod end receiving socket(proper name?) then find a stationary spot such as the chassis, grab a measuring tape and find the measurement from that spot to the mark I made on top of the rod end socket. Better yet I marked the measuring tape.
I am fully confident I dont need an alignment after I changed out both tie rods and tie rod ends.
I only wished I shouldve changed the front shocks since the front was all tore apart anyways.
Just did this on my 2012 f150 and you saved me $200 by doing this myself!! Thanks and subrscribed🤘
(A to B)", much better than counting the turns of the tie rod. Thanks so much for saving me money on my Mustang. I love your tips, my 06 superduty thanks you in advance.
Very well done sir, thanks for that helpful tip now I can do it in my own van .
Your Videos are great and a lot of help!
That’s for the tip about loosening the nut on the back of the outer tie rod first. A Box end wrench on these are really helpful too.
totally agree with you on using motorcraft, i use OEM parts on almost everything,, however with suspension parts I've been using Moog because they come with grease fittings. I just see so many fail and once I switch them over they far outlast the originals, provided the customer gets them greased regularly.
Everyone has their own method, but I like to measure from a mark on the inner rod, top a mark made on the knuckle where the tie rod bolts. The stud can pivot, altering the measurement on the tie rod, and the knuckle is really the part that is being trued into alignment.
True but when when they are this worn they usually stick straight up as this one did and I measure at the base of the pivot which cannot deviate as it is basically a ball that far down.
Eric is right. The old and new tie rod studs can swivel and change your 8" by a lot, making the alignment wrong. You say the old tie rod stud is worn and sticks straight up. Not always. And the new tie rod stud points wherever it wants. You can measure at the center of the tie rod ball. Measuring at the base of the stud can easily be off by 1/16" or more which is going to affect toe enough to wear out tires. Change all the worn parts at the same time and get the alignment done one time. You'll save a lot more on tires.
some fantastic tips thanks allot
Very informative and helpful video.
Thanks for sharing
Great tutorial, very useful!
Great video, a lot Information. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.
Thank you, wish I had watched this last night when I did mine and had to use a c clamp and floor jack to smash the ball into the socket to tighten... Don't know why I didn't think of tightening the 10 mm stud on top...
Excellent trick for nylon locking nut. Overall, another great teaching video. Makes me sane.
This is awesome. Makes me actually think i can do this!
Thank you for doing these.
Kudos on measuring the tie rod to ball joint distance. One time I changed a pair of outers and counted the threads, the only problem was each tie rod thread was off by 1/2 turn which affected my toe. No matter though because I always recheck it, but I could have saved some time, and possibly readjustment if I had done it your way.
Great job measuring! I like the wrench/tighten shaft to remove nut. Not good to ever reuse a nylock nut, they are 1 use. And I would buy a part with a zerk fitting. I even add them if they don’t have one, But be sure to buy self-tapping zerk if you do
Great tip :)
You should have a four piece metal band playing some heavy background music for the action scenes. Torquing, hammering ect.. Would be so cool.
You are good mechanic!!!! Thanks
great tips ....thanks for posting
Anytime use impact wrench,and don't use any break free spray,it spins when taking top bolt off everytime.
Another great way to do it is once you have knocked it out of the hole push it back in all the way and clamp the steering knuckle down at the lower ball joint so it CANT move...then remove the old one and install the new one adjust it until it fits perfectly into the hole without moving ANYTHING...you may have to twist the inner tie rod a little to fine tune the length because even if they are the exact same length, the thread may start in a diiferent spot in the end so you will have to adjust for that...as long as NOTHING moves while you do this, it is the best way to keep the alignment right on the money...
Thank you for posting!
Tu nuevo suscriptor. Saludos, good job amigo.
Thanks for great videos! What does Makuloco mean?
Great Info! Thanks
Great job, you should be an instructor!
Thanks for the knowledge. Need to replace mine and trying to avoid an alignment if possible
Dude thanks for the videos. You help me out and save me hundreds of dollars. Thanks.
Saturday night Stockcar race alignment, all you need is a string
Very nice Job, thanks for sharing.
Thanks bro i just got an alignment not to long ago and now my tie rod went bad i picked up a moog just tryin to save a lil money and not need another alignment
Great video. THanks.
Great content, 05 XLT is running a lot better 💯
Great video for sure! Thanks!
Great video!
Just did this on my outers worked great thanks!! question is.. can i do my inners the same way.. measure from where inner locks into steering rack.. to end of outer tie rod stud?.. and use same measurement to install both?.. was hoping so .. so i can avoid paying someone lmk ur thoughts much appreciated
Very well explained video for removal and installation. What was the reason replacing. I am getting thumping, clunking sound going at about 20-30mph over roads. Haven’t been able to diagnose the issue yet
well explained ,easy to follow
Well done, saved me some time, thanks
Great video! what do u do if u don't have castle nut line up with hole for cotter pin? do u back the nut off a little or torque it a little more
I agree, but I couldn't find one with a grease fitting??? So I went with moog. Thank for what you do it means a lot I will definitely use this for mind when parts come in. Is it best to do both or wait until the other one go out!
Nice job guy.
Thank you for good video!!!
Another good one. Thanks.
Thanks!