#NotABrilliantMan. In all seriousness, it's a major failing of mine as a reviewer that I don't understand all of the bazillion things you can do to make attractive pieces of metal black and tactical. One of these days, I'd love to sit down and understand the differences between Parkerizing and Hard Anodizing and DLCing and Painting and Cerakoting and stuff. But for now, I just have one term.
Yep, hard anodizing greatly lowers surface friction. Same reason they use it in firearms like the AR-15. It's one reason the government thought they'd never need to service the weapon since the hard ano stays slick at all times. Of course they found out later that isn't true when it's covered in gun residue lol
Simple design, but hard to execute correctly..The tolerances have to be perfect to execute it right and to feel good...Great review Nick, you made my purchase easy
The first knife you reviewed was the Magic B-1 which was a bolster release. This is the Magic 2 which is a descendant of the original scale release which first appeared in 2005. The difference between the original Magic scale release and the Magic 2 scale release is that this one is a little larger. I have 3 of the originals in mint condition and one of these.
I'm guessing the slight inherent play is mechanical slop because the spring becomes ever so slightly thicker under tension than when it's open. I wonder if some thin washers would've allowed enough room to avoid that completely?
I think this has to be the way Spyderco does the pivoting scale lock on the Meerkat. I really think there is a lot of room for designers to experiment with derivatives of a simple lockback, it's a shame that we don't see more in the market.
I have one of these. The pivot nut appears to be pressed in and since it's a press fit, it might not be a good idea to disassemble it more than what you have or it might spin freely when you put it back together. Type III hardcoat usually grows between .0005" to .0007" on a surface so .001" - .0014" on the ID of a bore and it can crack or chip off the substrate which means your press fit pivot could become a slip fit in short order. Maybe they masked it and it's not a problem but Protech could fix this by using a normal flat on pivot shoulder & scale. Getting the backlock off without pressing the pivot out is a complete PITA. That tension finger takes a lot of force to flex. Anyway, I found this knife is not really suitable for daily carry in the environment I work in (ranch). It is very susceptible to dirt and with so much contact area between the backlock and scales it can get very gritty and binds unless you run the pivot (too) loose Less oil is better. No shit, but try Pledge furniture spray on it. I prefer the lemon scented.
Hey Nick love your channel brotha. Was wondering if you could do a video on how to disassemble and Clean the DPx Heat/Hest.. would be great brotha.. keep posting great vids
So red Loctite is the permanent Loctite that will make screws almost impossible to get out. However, that's under the *Loctite* brand. There's many other manufacturers of thread lock, Loctite being one of them. Other manufacturers use different color codes for their products, and usually those colors define what size screw the various thread lock uses. Obvious very strong thread lock on a 1" screw will hold it in place, but the thread lock you would use on a 1" thread wouldn't hold a 1\16" thread. So you don't want to equate one brand's color code with another. Also, when putting a pivot on, you NEVER want to dip it in oil! You want it clean as can be with a fresh coat of Loctite on it (blue). Since the pivot must be adjusted properly, it can't be firmly tightened. This means you need Loctite on the pivot to avoid it from backing out due to vibration from use, walking around, etc.. It's highly likely (ie: almost definite) the screw will work its way out of the knife without some sort of thread lock applied to it, and for that Loctite to hold the threads must be free of all dirt and oils.
Actually almost every brand has red colored permanent threadlocker while blue, white or purple is medium strength/removable. Although some white threadlocker can be permanent which contradicts itself in my opinion lol
My guess is that it is Vibra Tite VC3 threadmate which is a RED compound that is designed to prevent screws from backing out while not being permanent, especially in high vibration areas. I use it all the time now and it works very well, screws don't move but can still be removed or adjusted easily if needed.
Just like you I like this design a lot. I wonder if it can be improved in the pivot area, particularly the scale on blade interaction. I don’t trust DLC to do a washer’s job.
It's not DLC, it's hard anodizing. Hard ano reduces surface friction greatly. It's why they hard ano AR-15 lower receivers. No need for the extra parts.
Mark Tudor no prob, it's just most people don't know that hard anodizing lowers surface friction greatly. Not that an auto needs it necessarily, but that's why there's no need for washers.
Can anyone (Nick? Anyone?) recommend a torx driver set for a beginner who is getting frustrated with stripped torx bits? I have bought three different sets. One from Walmart in an orange box. A husky set that I thought would hold up from Lowe's. And my first set from harbor freight that was $5 that I'm not surprised stripped out. Am I just too hard in the way I use my tools or is the T6 notorious for stripping out? All my other bits are fine. Always the 6. I'm tired of spending money on cheap crap. I know this has probably been explained millions of times on other videos, but I haven't seen any recommendations yet so far, so sorry for the basic noob question. Thanks for any replies!
Also most sets that I see out and about (Walmart, Lowe's, home depot) are all super cheap bargain bin sets. The T10, T25, T30 sets are way more prevalent and seem better quality.
Quick note: the handle is hard anodized, not DLC coated. But yeah, very interesting how there's no washers.
#NotABrilliantMan. In all seriousness, it's a major failing of mine as a reviewer that I don't understand all of the bazillion things you can do to make attractive pieces of metal black and tactical. One of these days, I'd love to sit down and understand the differences between Parkerizing and Hard Anodizing and DLCing and Painting and Cerakoting and stuff. But for now, I just have one term.
Yep, hard anodizing greatly lowers surface friction. Same reason they use it in firearms like the AR-15. It's one reason the government thought they'd never need to service the weapon since the hard ano stays slick at all times. Of course they found out later that isn't true when it's covered in gun residue lol
Simplicity is difficult and the sign of a competent engineer.
Boozy part face reveal? Keep up the good work ya legend! from a fellow Jackass 🙏🏻❤️😁
Wow that simple ! Didn’t expect that. Thx for vid.
Simple design, but hard to execute correctly..The tolerances have to be perfect to execute it right and to feel good...Great review Nick, you made my purchase easy
Ooh, you said "protuberance." Awesome.
The first knife you reviewed was the Magic B-1 which was a bolster release. This is the Magic 2 which is a descendant of the original scale release which first appeared in 2005. The difference between the original Magic scale release and the Magic 2 scale release is that this one is a little larger. I have 3 of the originals in mint condition and one of these.
I'm guessing the slight inherent play is mechanical slop because the spring becomes ever so slightly thicker under tension than when it's open. I wonder if some thin washers would've allowed enough room to avoid that completely?
I think this has to be the way Spyderco does the pivoting scale lock on the Meerkat. I really think there is a lot of room for designers to experiment with derivatives of a simple lockback, it's a shame that we don't see more in the market.
Probably not red loctite, more likely it is Vibra Tite VC3 threadmate. Good stuff, better than blue imo, look it up.
Great video as usual.. 👍👍👍👍
I have one of these. The pivot nut appears to be pressed in and since it's a press fit, it might not be a good idea to disassemble it more than what you have or it might spin freely when you put it back together. Type III hardcoat usually grows between .0005" to .0007" on a surface so .001" - .0014" on the ID of a bore and it can crack or chip off the substrate which means your press fit pivot could become a slip fit in short order. Maybe they masked it and it's not a problem but Protech could fix this by using a normal flat on pivot shoulder & scale. Getting the backlock off without pressing the pivot out is a complete PITA. That tension finger takes a lot of force to flex. Anyway, I found this knife is not really suitable for daily carry in the environment I work in (ranch). It is very susceptible to dirt and with so much contact area between the backlock and scales it can get very gritty and binds unless you run the pivot (too) loose Less oil is better. No shit, but try Pledge furniture spray on it. I prefer the lemon scented.
Hey Nick love your channel brotha. Was wondering if you could do a video on how to disassemble and Clean the DPx Heat/Hest.. would be great brotha.. keep posting great vids
Interesting ! Seem that it might open in the pocket easily , maybe not ?
Aside from the one position clip, how functional is it for a leftie?
Too close to a #facereveal for my comfort.
Which is better the magic 1 or the magic 2? I think the 1 looks nicer.
But does the 2 perform any better?
it looks like that pivot screw is what's called a "patch" screw with the locktite pre-applied
So red Loctite is the permanent Loctite that will make screws almost impossible to get out. However, that's under the *Loctite* brand. There's many other manufacturers of thread lock, Loctite being one of them. Other manufacturers use different color codes for their products, and usually those colors define what size screw the various thread lock uses. Obvious very strong thread lock on a 1" screw will hold it in place, but the thread lock you would use on a 1" thread wouldn't hold a 1\16" thread. So you don't want to equate one brand's color code with another. Also, when putting a pivot on, you NEVER want to dip it in oil! You want it clean as can be with a fresh coat of Loctite on it (blue). Since the pivot must be adjusted properly, it can't be firmly tightened. This means you need Loctite on the pivot to avoid it from backing out due to vibration from use, walking around, etc.. It's highly likely (ie: almost definite) the screw will work its way out of the knife without some sort of thread lock applied to it, and for that Loctite to hold the threads must be free of all dirt and oils.
Actually almost every brand has red colored permanent threadlocker while blue, white or purple is medium strength/removable. Although some white threadlocker can be permanent which contradicts itself in my opinion lol
My guess is that it is Vibra Tite VC3 threadmate which is a RED compound that is designed to prevent screws from backing out while not being permanent, especially in high vibration areas. I use it all the time now and it works very well, screws don't move but can still be removed or adjusted easily if needed.
would you reccomend the ifixit or wiha bit set
5 years in the future but for anyone that watches this, that's not actually red loctite
In todays episode of knives you cant get because the guy that makes laws in your area is an idiot: the protech magic 2
Just like you I like this design a lot. I wonder if it can be improved in the pivot area, particularly the scale on blade interaction. I don’t trust DLC to do a washer’s job.
Mark Tudor Thing is, this is driven with a heavy spring. It is just more friction straight on the scale
Valkyrie Survives Did I give the impression I didn’t observe/notice that? Sorry.
It's not DLC, it's hard anodizing. Hard ano reduces surface friction greatly. It's why they hard ano AR-15 lower receivers. No need for the extra parts.
K-oz Dragon I went with what Nick said it is.
Mark Tudor no prob, it's just most people don't know that hard anodizing lowers surface friction greatly. Not that an auto needs it necessarily, but that's why there's no need for washers.
Can anyone (Nick? Anyone?) recommend a torx driver set for a beginner who is getting frustrated with stripped torx bits?
I have bought three different sets. One from Walmart in an orange box. A husky set that I thought would hold up from Lowe's. And my first set from harbor freight that was $5 that I'm not surprised stripped out.
Am I just too hard in the way I use my tools or is the T6 notorious for stripping out? All my other bits are fine. Always the 6. I'm tired of spending money on cheap crap.
I know this has probably been explained millions of times on other videos, but I haven't seen any recommendations yet so far, so sorry for the basic noob question. Thanks for any replies!
Also most sets that I see out and about (Walmart, Lowe's, home depot) are all super cheap bargain bin sets. The T10, T25, T30 sets are way more prevalent and seem better quality.
Check my disassembly toolkit video for details and links.
Nick Shabazz Awesome! Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the standard basic redundant question.
Nick has stock in Vaseline
#overlubrication
#overlubricatetheworld
First! 😂👍
What,, no band of gold,,, lol,,,
You should just dip it in a bucket of oil😀
I don't get it
360 usd for this knife. Seems way over priced
I was thinking you could fold a piece of gorilla tape over the edge of the blade to protect your hands.