Panzermeister's "Definitive Review" of TAKOM StuG III Ausf.G Early Production (BLITZ line
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Today will be my long-awaited review of Takom's recent release -- the StuG III Ausf.G Early Production (kit no. Takom 8004).
SUMMARY:
As part of their Blitz line, this kit is meant for simplified assembly that can be done in a weekend, maybe even by a beginner. That is true for this kit, without sacrificing much detail (apart from the tool clamps looking a little weak). The link-and-length tracks and minimal PE also support this quick build idea. However, the kit includes 5 small PE parts which are tricky to fold, especially for beginners...but you could always just leave them off :)
The kit has great weld detail, crisp bolts and rivets, a one-piece barrel, and the included PE vents and copper tow cable are excellent. Fit is overall perfect, with the exception of the wheels (7:29) and gun barrel (26:31) having some interference that is easy to solve with a little sanding or trimming.
A few points in the instructions show putting on parts in an order that I would not recommend. For example, in Steps 4-5 I would recommend assembling the rear armour (M33, M17, M13) in Step 5 first, then mounting the PE vent (TP1), and then putting on the parts shown in the bottom half of Step 4. And in Step 8, when mounting the tow cable, do it AFTER putting on the S-hooks (M9+M10) and fender supports (M58, M35).
I have a few other tips, like the front half of the loader's hatch should prop open the loader's MG shield, and in the last step, it's much handier to glue part N11 onto the roof, not onto the superstructure, as gluing it onto the roof makes it removable so painting the gun is easier.
In terms of historical accuracy, the kit is on par with Dragon 6320 as it is overall quite good, but gets a few minor things wrong. These include the wrong type of rear light, underscale smoke launcher barrels, a missing tow point on the rear hull, and a slightly incorrect cupola (as historically, these early vehicles had the cupola assembled wrong in early 1943). These are minor, so you don't have to worry about them as the kit builds up into a beautiful early StuG III G!
On my build, I fixed the historical errors, added some detail by replacing the kit tool clamps with 3D-printed MJ and plastic ModelKasten clamps, and I also added some small PE chains. In addition, to model a battle-damaged vehicle, I added a resin damaged wheel and dragon empty spare wheel holders.
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.
Sorry, there seems to be a little confusion with regard to my fix for the wheel fit issues.
I did not trim the rods off entirely. The inside half of the wheel has about 90% of the rod length molded on, while the outer half of the wheel has about 10% of the rod. These rods are together too long and interfere when the wheels are assembled, so I just trimmed off the 10% rods from the outer wheel halves only, leaving the inner wheel with the 90% rods. This fixes the fit and you don't notice the missing material.
At 8:27 I showed two examples of the outer half, one with the 10% rod still in place (left) and one with that material removed (right). I'm NOT showing an inner and an outer half there...just two outer wheel halves. Remember, don't trim the rods on the inner wheel halves.
>>> Most clearly -- if you have the instructions in front of you -- just trim the rods from all parts A11 (outer wheel half) and leave the rods on parts A16 (inner wheel half).
No more videos !? 😥😳😭
In times where dragon kits even on sale cost a fortune those takoms really are a gift
Takom and Das Werk are the absolute best band for the buck now. Why bother with a dragon or tamiya kit when you can get photo etch and great detail for half the price.
"das werk' stug G is a 2007 dragon mould with both zimmerit/plain parts,retail about £37 in UK.Moulds are the 39'45 series with 6 as first serial number,not old 'imperial' series.
@@tyates4398 I just got a Das Werk/Takom Panther A and after I finish a couple of other projects I can't wait to start it.
@@Sniper_Cat_71 Just recently built it, absolutely wonderful kit, the tracks are a pain in the ass though, that's my only complaint
@@Sniper_Cat_71 I think I got the command tank version of that i enjoyed it a lot
This is something I’m very much in favor of. We already have plenty of kits with crazy high parts numbers with super complex builds that still end up being full of inaccuracies anyway. A lower cost kit that is “good enough” is something I really hope sticks around.
As the hobby advances there will be more high count kits. Something I'm looking forward to since I jumped on the hobby to build.
@monkey in a panzer Same. Love Dragon kits, but 'oh dear?!', the parts count. Their Smart kits are a lot better, especially these days with moulded in Zimmerit, single length tracks which are good enough and many slide moulded parts which are so fine as to negate the need for using the included PE alternatives or buying a metal barrel, but still 'oh dear?!', the price. Tamiya new tool better regarding parts count and price than Dragon, but still ouch regards the latter. I love/d the Cyber-Hobby Orange Box series reissues of older Dragon kits. A set of decently sculpted older Dragon figurines plus a very nice older model regardless there might be a newer more detailed release. Some of them in particular more than met my acceptability expectations and scrubbed up extremely well with a very little extra effort. e.g. StuG III Ausf B, Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. E/F. Definitely a place for Blitz kits.
I'll start off by saying how grateful I am for this video!
My wife knew that I wanted to get back into modeling after a very long hiatus, so she bought me this kit as a birthday gift. While a great kit - all-in-all - there's no way I would have been able to finish it without your tips and suggested changes.
For others, here are a few of things I ran in to while building the kit:
- Wheels. I had exactly the same issue assembling the wheels. However, not having the best set of clippers, I had to use a file to file the longer lengths down to a length that allowed the wheels to fit together.
- Photo-etched parts. Took me quite awhile to fully understand that the small flash piece (labeled as TP6 in the instructions) was meant to stand on its edge against the deck trim. And as you recommend in the video, I simply skipped the rear flashing (labeled as TP4 and TP5). I simply couldn't get either piece to lay flat.
- Vents. Contrary to the flashing, no real issues with the vent grating (labeled TP8 and TP9). However, I did have an issue getting their associated "brackets" into place, which go over the vent grating (labeled as M62 and M63). Post-build, it seemed as though you could probably put the vents themselves into place (M6 and M7), then the brackets, and then slide the grating into place.
- Barrell. Same fit issue, which I discovered the hard way, and then realized you tried to warn us. Also, I inadvertently snipped off the piece that fits to the barrell end (N7 to N14), thinking it was part of the sprue. I was still able to simply file and glue on, and it obviously made aligning everything a LOT harder.
- Casement. I only got a fair fit on the casement, attaching it to the hull. Smallest bit of daylight on the forward, right side.
Like I said, all-in-all a very enjoyable build. But for this being my first build in well over a decade, and possibly my first tracked vehicle EVER, absolutely challenging and occassionally nerve-racking.
Thank you for helping guide the way!
Thanks for your notes! I'm glad my video was helpful, and your comments here should help other viewers in the future.
I'm also glad to hear you're getting back into the hobby :) cheers
A build review is just so much more useful then an out-of-box review! Great job 💯
A great detailed review. I just bought the Stuh 42 Stug 3 G late Takom kit so I'm sure your review will provide all sorts of tips when I build it. Honest build reviews are the way to go but take more effort so thanks for putting in the time.
Being a Stug lover i appreciate these in depth reviews as i also like to be historically accurate in my builds and two things i missed in my early Stug G and also the tow point i missed. Thanks for this fine review.
In three hours I have about 50% of this tank done. Nicely detailed and solid fits. Getting ready for the speed bumps you noted
What a timing. I just ordered this kit an hour ago. I 'll be watching your review now 😀.
Perfect :D
@@Panzermeister36 watched the video and it seems a good choice for my first AFV build. Now I just have to wait for the kit to arrive next week and start building it. Thanks for the video and additional information you provide!
New subscriber to your channel and recent returnee to plastic armor kit building. I want to say thanks for this review of the Takom StuG III along with building tips. I’m working on their StuG III Ausf. G Late Production Blitz kit which is almost the same build. I’m was ready to proceed with steps 10, 11,and 12 which is the assembly of the upper deck details, but was slightly puzzled with the tow cable placement, above or under the other parts. Luckily, you addressed that very issue and saved me from going down the wrong path. Additionally, I like the method you tried out with the tracks and road wheels all put together as one assembly but not glued to the hull for easy removal to weather the hull. I will try that out on my next build.
Evan, the level of detail you put into your build reviews really sets the standard. Combined with the history you provide, it really gives the modeler choices about how best to approach a kit.
Thank you George! I hope you enjoy your RFM StuG 😊
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks Evan. I got the Takom 8010 you recommended, as well.
Your attention to detail is awesome Panzermeister. 👍🏾
Thank you!
A great build review! I personally love the Takom Blitz’ kits, as they offer excellent detail and are a simplified build. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Cheers from Australia!
Excellent review. I like how you summarized the changes to make it more accurate. Looks like a really fun build.
Thank you Ian :)
Awesome review. These kits are dirt cheap relative to Dragon, and accurate enough for most folks. Thanks for putting in the effort to give us such a detailed examination of the kit.
Thank you Bruce! I enjoy your similar review of Pz IV kits :)
I think it’s important for both non-rivet counters and rivet counters to respect each other’s choice of a realistic model or not realistic. :)
Exactly. I like to rivet count my own builds but nobody has do follow along. So I tried to show kit issues as well as historical issues so anyone can choose which ones they want to deal with.
Thanks for one of the best build reviews and explanation of how to do some of the easier ways of building the stug
I've just started building this kit for my local IPMS Club group build and this video has been an extremely useful and interesting starting place. Thanks very much for this well put together video.
Glad to hear my video is helpful to you John. Enjoy your group build!
That is some very valuable information! Seems like Takom got it quite right, at least in comparison with other brands out there. I like the modifications you made to improve the kit a little bit further. The mine damage is a cool feature of your model.
Thank you Michael :)
Very good information (as I had expected : ) That's a Kit a for me, don't like getting drowned in parts and having open hatches with nothing behind it. Thank you Evan!
Thank you Kai! I'm sure you'd do it justice :) 3D print the tow point and cupola!
Excellent review. I think I've said this before where you start with a fully built model and then go back step by step and where the inaccuracies are optional depending on your skill level. Well done Panzermiester!
Hurry back panzermeister... miss the great videos! hope all is well
Thank you for asking how I'm doing :) all is well, I am just finishing up my aerospace engineering degree. My last exam is in 9 days and then I am free! Though I may have a video out sooner than that...
It's great work. Definitive.....That's right. It must be absolutely helpful for whom going to build this kit. Thanks for sharing.
Please stay safe and have a nice week end. Greetings, NOB
Our go to expert on StugIII and oils ... keep the good stuff coming
immediate like
With bench time being scarce at the moment I'm all for a simple bùld once in a while. Hats off to Takom for this approach. Very detailed video Evan. Not my subject as you know mate, but that didn't detract from me enjoying the whole vid mate
Just started building this as my first 1/35th afv... really easy neat model. Thanks for the video
Loved your review and explanations of fixes for the few issues. Subscribed and looking forward to watching more.
As always, a superb review video from you, Evan! 👍👍 I hope that all is well with you & your family! 😎
I recently bought the same kit and i'm going to use your video as a guide! Thank you for taking the trouble of making such a detailed video!
Glad you'll find it useful Jan :)
This kit fought me at every turn .Thanks for the great video.
impressive! thought of getting one and build out of the box and after watching this, there is no way for me to be building that out of the box!
Nice review mate.
Its very informative .
Keep on the good work !
Love your work. Have learned alot from watching. Waiting on your next video hope its soon looks like youve been taking a break. Keep up the great work.
Cupolas with the plated-over spot facing the front can be found on early vehicles from both Alkett and MIAG. The early cupolas were rotating, so pics where the hatch is facing forward are not from a field mod, but from a regular but rotated cupola.
Mmm you are correct, I should have stated they were rotating at this point. I have never noticed this on Alkett vehicles so far, only MIAG and I think once on a MAN one. If you have an Alkett photo please send it on FB so I can see :)
Regarding the weld I can´t find your and my original post, so I comment here. It would be perhaps enough to fill it, but from the pictures it looks like an extra space made due to this feature, but again, it needs to be compared with accurate drawing. I don´t have the kit either, the rear parts look similar to the panzer 3 M what I actually have, inherited the same not so good layout, but can be fixed somehow, by shortening the intake amour from both sides.
@@tiborvarga84 : You were right about this. It's 80mm + the extra plates. The weld is indeed a sign of the kit being faulty.
@@andreaslarka1633 Yep - faulty - suffers from the very same problem as the 90`s Tamiya StuG 80mm solid armour + 30mm applique - FAIL !
Fantastic review and I appreciate the attention to detail for those that may want to add it. Very timely as I happened to have ordered this kit two days before the video was released. Can't wait to use the tips and apply it to my build.
Great review and build. I believe you'd have a much easier time with photo etched parts if you had tools for such tiny parts. I use photo etch and resin upgrades on every kit. Patients and good tools will pay you back x10.
Hi and sorry for my bad english.
You did a very good Job with this review. And i know i am a little late with my notes.
But there is one point i don't agree with you.
The early coupolas where rotatable. Means you could rotate the hole coupola. All those rotatable coupolas had the" blind spot" in front of the scissor periscope and not on the rear by the mountig for the hatch. All of the pictures in my collection show this. It has nothing to do with Miag assembled them in the wrong way. You will find this on the Alkett StuG's too. It is only the sign that it is a rotatable coupola. Later when the coupolas where non rotatable ( lack of ball bearings) the "blind spot" was on the rear of the coupla.
StuG Abt 177 described the Problem in a detailed report from 28. August 1943 as followed: ( I try to translate from German to english) Locking mechanism of the turret has to be modified on StuGs from Miag because in locked position the scissors periskope looks backwarts.
This means also the hatch of the early coupolas rotates with the periscopes. When ever you see a hatch standing open in a "unnormal" way or position that is not straight backwarts... you have an rotatable coupola.
The rotatable coupolas in the "early" versions droped about Nov. 1943 and where reintroduced about from Sept. 1944. But there where still not enough ball bearings to fit the complete output of the both factorys. This is documentet in Ch H Rüst und BdE from 14.12.1944.
So far my remarks to this small historical accuracy point.
Keep up your fantastic Work and again sorry for my bad english.
Good review! I appreciate your videos as I am also a huge Stug fan. Hope you continue to put out content especially regarding Stugs.
Thank you! Much appreciated.
Me: going to build this stug 3 next week.
Pzmr36: Hold On!!! I have some advice to u!
Me: OKIE!!!!
Bonjour mon ami 👍😉Hi friend 😃
It's a wonderful Review 👍I enjoy watching your job 💪Congrats buddy good morning of France 👍🇫🇷
Stug life...! Grate kit review and a sweet build especially on scratch built parts and added extras really marks a difference to the kit and authentic looking forward to seeing this one painted im sure it's going to be a stunner. 🤪🤟
hey man, just wanted to say love your videos and I have leanrt a lot of things from your channel. Been watching all your videos. Thanks man
Thank you. I have been driven nuts recently trying to find out what that trapezoidal object at the base of the gun barrel was called and what it's purpose was.
Recuperator housing - I can't believe I never knew what it was, though to be fair I never really got that into tank construction, until now.
But it's good to finally know none the less. Thanks again and thanks for your videos, I'm getting back into modelling after many, many years and looked to them for techniques and tips before I dare open a kit again (procrastinating more like!).
*Excellent video full of explanations, details, improvements, i was wrong thinking i will be bored but it's the contrary, thanks! 👍*
Great review! I waited for this a loooong time!
Great review. Looking forward to the finished product.
Really good video! I am building Panzer III asuf. M also from Takom Blitz series. It basically the same so this video is quite helpful with that one as well.
Hi Panzermeister... the early model stug's have a whole rotating cuppola on a ball bearing ring , the cuppola's where not miss fitted and thats why your picks showing the wrong opening of the hatch , but later there was a shortage and they where fixed and welded on the upper area look at the talks and chats of the englisch tankmuseum....
That is true. The whole cupola rotates, not the just the hatch, so those early vehicles that have the hatch reversed with respect to the vision block positions are stuck that way. But when I said they were "field modified" to be rotated around for a forward vision block (and then backwards hatch), that wasn't right. I should have said they can just rotate like that freely.
You are the man....very interesting on the factory issue w/ cupola
Hi Evan. Good video, excellent points, thanks for posting.
My recommendations when planning to build a Takom kit is to assume that whoever wrote the instructions has never built a model kit and to very carefully consider the order of construction....
So to summarize, would you say this kit is an OK, good or excellent compromise of Tamiya ease-of-build and Dragon detail? Do you feel that it was worth what you paid for it?
I enjoy your post-build, before-paint reviews. Very helpful and informative. I feel that the length of the video was not too long for those of us who would be interested in it.
I would say excellent compromise...but not excellent kit since to me excellent would not be a compromise and would have tons of parts :) this kit is far better than the old Tamiya StuG III G and is a lot less complicated than Dragon ones while still having great detail.
Excellent review.Great tip about gluing that small piece to the roof..I'm about to assemble my Dragon kit,so that'll save me some grief! Also the weld on top of the recuperator,i wasn't sure if to fill it or put a weld seam over it.👍
Very instructive video as usual !!! Thank you so much for sharing your experience 😊😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video! I don't know if you ever tried it, but you can assemble this type of tracks in a way to keep them removable. Just glue them flat on your desk, let the glue dry for like 5min and than just wrap them around the wheels. You need to do this before you assemble the upper hull. It's really a timesafer and if you want to see a video just watch the nightshift tamiya sherman build.
They are still removable on my vehicle here :)
@@Panzermeister36 OK sorry I didn't saw that. 😂
Looks like a nice kit! I have a question, when zimmerit gets chipped away, maybe from a shell impact or something along those lines, what color metal becomes visible? (Bare steel, red oxide paint, dungelgelb yellow, or German grey?) just wondering if they painted the yellow then put the zim on, thanks
Red oxide primer is underneath zimmerit. There are some photos that show this :)
@@Panzermeister36 Ok great thanks!
@@Panzermeister36 A couple of follow-up questions for you Evan: What colour is the zimmerit itself? I have seen a variety of answers to this question. Some say it's a greyish-white (similar to concrete, but a bit darker), and I have seen it described as a yellowish colour. Also, was the zimmerit painted with primer before the dunkelgelb coat was applied?
It's a light ochre colour. Ochre pigment is one of the ingredients of Zimmerit.
At the factory tanks were primed red oxide (gun barrels in dark grey primer) and then Zimmerit is applied over that, and then the Dunkelgelb german yellow paint goes on last.
Early Panther A apparently have yellow paint under the Zimmerit, for some reason. That was right at the beginning of Zimm applications.
Oh, interesting! I’m about to build a Panther A, so that will be helpful!
Love the review. Im only just starting and have been looking for a stug. Was tossing up between the tamiya and takom.
Think this has made that decision easier
An StuG III G from Tamiya? Forget it *. . .*
Wow! Great lesson on the Stug. Cheers
You have convinced me to build a StuG :)
Excellent break down sir. I'm not sure how to feel about these Blitz kits. If it were me I'd still go Dragon StuG if I had to choose.
To be honest I would too, but I can appreciate this kit for a newcomer as this is way better than the similarly-complex Tamiya kit.
@@Panzermeister36 Are the instructions in the Dragon StuG kits as terrible as they are in many of Dragon's other kits?
One of the small issues that I can see is the grab handle on the top back-side of the gun shield. It is just a tab of plastic and should be a handle similar to the handle inside the loaders hatch. It can be seen @27:32. Normally I wouldn't bother but it is noticeable at the top of the model and could easily be fixed.
You're right. I would fix that, but it's the same on my 10+ Dragon StuG III kits. On my shelf they'll look alright next to each other...I don't bother superdetailing all my projects.
Ah, theres that rock you've been hiding under. This will make or break me venturing outside of the Dragon kits. I like them too much to try new stuff. Lol
To fix the wheel issue you could easily fix it by rubbing it over some sandpaper. Probably quicker and more uniform then going at it with a knife.
Great kit!
Excellent build review.
Hi, is the rear light in this model correct? I saw/read somewhere that it should be round but now I'm not sure. Merry Christmas!
It's hard to say. Both the tubular style and boxy notek style of rear lights were used on StuG G at various times. The tubular style is most common.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks for the answer.
Panzermiester, where are you? you have not done any videos in many months
I am alive. Thank you for thinking of me. I was just busy finishing up my university degree. I'll be back soon!
@@Panzermeister36 hooray
Hi! Great review. Do you know if this 8004 kit is the same as the 8009? The later kit with just some more options.
Im having a hard time finding the 8004kit. I only built my self a few Tamiya tanks and would love to try a StuG iii G.
Been holding of the German tanks because i prefered allied single color cammo while learning to use the airbrush 😅
The 8009 kit should be basically the same but with a 105mm gun added (for StuH configuration) and also with side skirts. The fenders may also be new for the mid-production fender supports.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you so much for taking your time 🍻
Nice review and comments thanks again :)
@Panzermeister36 - How do you fix the low-nose profile looks of this StuG? Having the main wheels rods fixed will probably be an issue?
It could be done but it will require a little bit of surgery. It's not hard though, since for part of the battle damage on that one side, I lowered the swing arm without a wheel on it slightly.
But when you're doing it along all the swing arms, I worry you'll have some weakness to the whole suspension (since when I did it, it was only one position and without a wheel it doesn't take any weight). So you may want to drill and pin a couple of the arms with some brass rod.
@@Panzermeister36 If you show that in a video, it would be highly appreciated I think.
No treadplate detail under the mudguards? LOL. I've never really understood why Dragon do this....you never see it. Fantastic video. Looks like a nice kit.
I hear ya, however if someone wants to bend the mudgards/'fenders' upwards to simulate serious damage, the treadplate underneath could become visible. 😎
@@derekbaker3279 hhhmmmmm.....well, you'd probably use pe in that case.🤩
Loved this kit. Especially for under $35. Wished I had known about this after paying more for Tamiya's less, well, significantly less impressive kit.
Yes, this kit is way better than the old Tamiya one!
@@Panzermeister36 I'm sure it was great in it's day. It was more that the Tam. was pricier. I try not to trash talk Tamiya because I'll get attacked lol. Takom, Hobby Boss/Trumpeter and a few others, in my opinion are leaving Tamiya in the dust In quality and pricing. I'm amazed at what these companies can do.
It was great in its day, but it's day was long before I was even born :D
New video from the master itself :)))))
I am curious what you would think of a Miniart Stug III, post-build! Ever consider doing one?
Maybe eventually, but from what I have seen, the MiniArt kits are not better than the Rye Field StuGs. Therefore I don't have much motivation to suffer through building one of them if the result will be not as good as the easier Dragon and Rye Field Model kits.
Basically, MiniArt will avoid using slide-molding which results in the entire kit being flat plates; other kits will have assemblies like the mantlet, hull, superstructure, etc molded in 3-D. MiniArt kits have more than twice as many parts for this reason and their plastic is very soft.
Nice video, thank you for sharing! 👍👍👍
Hey mate what light should be on the back? Rfms early has left alot tools off for some reason the kits been accurate all way through till end come to fenders n they have only the cable the shovel and starter amd cleaning rod's actually being put on the stug! So weird but will copy this as got loads spare parts for later versions and stug 4s in box! All the remote mg stuffs in box for internal workings and outer must be for later full interiors etc! There stug 4 has the flip up Sheild aswell so it's not for that kit!
Just thought I’d ask you, the stug god, what you think is the best 1/35 stug, preferably F/G,or any other long barreled stug 3 or 4. With or without zim. Considering detail, accuracy, etc. Thanks!
You should have the tow eys in a Dragon stug B kit that's whare I got mine! You done the F8 same sprues really you'll have it in there! I'm building RFMs full interior just now it's not got anything in instructions for wire cutters or the small hammer on back or fire extinguisher, Very very strange! I've just got to near the end of the build and have the 3D printed clamps ready and 3D printed fire extinguisher but doesn't have them on anywhere! I've got this takom and das werks etc and the 1.16 new das werk earlys I'm pretty sure it would have them?
Nice kit, but u thought it will be has more details, but good review :)
Strange why they never added the inner idler rims in PE they did with there panzer 3 ausf M and N and basically same kit basics was there only the 1 PE fret? In there panzer 3 kit there was a separate fret it had 6 quarter round parts on them that made up the ring onnthe inside there not just 2 single rings they come in 3 half moon shaped rings! There panzer 3s also had 3couple types of the tow pintals in the kit I can't understand why they haven't added these in this kit as was used for the panzer 3 M I'm looking at it right now lol crazy! And the smoke launchers were perfect and told you in the instructions what direction to have the cut outs positioned it was actually one of the best panzer 3 kits I've build and I've build mini art and dragons! What a difference in there stug and panzer 3 I'm actually shocked at this!
Well done. Thanks. BTW: How many did they build with the erroneous cupola? A significant number or just a few?
It's certainly common to see the weird cupola on these early vehicles that had the smoke grenade launchers. The launchers were only around for a short period at the beginning of StuG III Ausf.G....so maybe 6-8 weeks?
Good morning friend, thank you and congratulations for the video. One question, would it be historically correct if I add the rear structure for stowage to this kit, and Schurzen skirts? Thank you
That would be no issue. Early vehicles were upgraded with side skirts in May and June 1943. And the stowage frame was often added to earlier vehicles as well (it became a standard feature in December 1943).
@@Panzermeister36 Tank you very much !
Thanks for the great video!
With the tweaks you suggested, can you think of any units/combats the vehicle would be part of? Is it possible Kursk?
Kursk is the Era of this vehicle, yes. Basically early to summer 1943 time period. You could also do italy.
When are you going to host a Panzermeister Panzer Group Build?
I used to do big group builds but they always end up dying and nobody finishes. I usually stick to buddy builds with a few friends now as its a lot more manageable.
Excellent review, thank you! I've subscribed and look forward to more :) I built their Panzer III N and had problems getting the ventilation domes on the engine deck to sit properly, did you encounter something similar with the Stug?
No I did not, but I believe the vent domes in the Pz III sprue are different than the StuG ones.
@@Panzermeister36 Sounds like they fixed it. On the Panzer III they have nothing to sit upon except for a few tiny stubs so in the end I filled the insides with putty to give it some substance.
@@HerrGausF Oh no, that is still the case with this kit. That is how they are in real life. I had plenty of experience from other StuGs to know to just apply extra thin along the inside lip of the covers and then pretty them into place; they will then glue onto the little stubs.
Do you know if new F8 early can be built as DAK version ?
Four Ausfürung F/8 were used in Tunisia, but I think they are the later type. I will check and reply back in a few hours.
An Early F/8 has welded 30mm extra armour on the front, while a Late F/8 has bolted 30mm armour.
@@Panzermeister36 I think I find that StuG Battery 90 used late production . I can't find any markings except something that looks like later A at back
That is what I have found too. So the later F/8 kit would be the better option....but it comes with winterketten in the Takom boxing I believe!
nice kit !
but for a modeler who seeks authenticity, there is a lot of inconsistency. the Das werk 35021 kit of a Dragon Stug iii ausf G zimmerit is maybe the best choice for price/quality
You can't complain about authenticity and then recommend this terrible fantasy kit...
more cleanup on the parts to do, compared with let's say border or tamiya kits? some sprues looked quite bad on high res pictures. appreciate your effort with this video, very informative.
I didn't find much flash or seam lines apart from the wheels.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks mate
have u done/seen the das werk stug model?? tryin to decide either that one or this. das werk is twice the price for me.
Thank you for the good and clear explanation. I am building at the moment this kit as well. But I have a question about mountains the tracks ; when I finished mounting the tracks together I have 38 tracks left (?) Is it possible that Takom extra tracks have been added in the kit ? Thanks in advance 👍🏻
Yes, the extra tracks should be there. You can use them as spares; usually the vehicle should have around 10 or so tracks mounted on the spare track rail on the back of the superstructure. Sometimes the crew would weld tracks on the front as extra armour. I've also seen tracks wrapped around the spare wheels on the engine deck. Lots of options! Take care :) I'm glad my video was helpful to you.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you, I will mount the spares somewhere else 👍🏻😊
I commend your attention to detail. I am somewhat of a stickler for that, myself. I figure if you are not going to try to get it right; why bother. I would be interested in getting a sheet of those tool clamps, as well. Are they hard to source? Good job on the kit.
The MJ clamps I got from the company itself in Korea. But I know some of the modelling websites have them in stock too. You'll have to look around depending on which country you live in.
I'll have to look into that cupola claim as just build a dragon early G and had nothing about it the hinges were on the blanked part at back it has the correct bump stop and inner ring I've noticed this one doesn't there actually after just looking at mine to yours I'll go check that now thanks
The inner ring is not always present on the real vehicles, as far as I have seen. Dragon kits also don't show the "incorrect" cupola, but depending on the kit you built it may not be required.
Hi panzermiester in your opinion who manufactures the best military tanks kits ??
The Das werk stug release is an old dragon 2007? kit with Zimmerit or plain parts.I was suprized as stugs on ebay are pretty overpriced nowadays.Ryefield Pz.kpfw.III is almost a dragon clone,i had half of kit parts in spares bin.Same build system and parts,just have pins instead of holes on wheel's.Nothing new there.Border not looking too special either.Thanks for review.Tracks on RFM Pz.III dont fit on jig,you have to cut all 360 individual pins if you want 'working' tracks.
29:00 essetial info! :)
Do you know what color the unpainted zimmerit was? Thanks
It's a light ochre colour like XF-55
Hey Bud!
would you say there is any need for new or emphasized weld lines?
The kit welds look very good. However there are a few tiny welds that are missing, on the roof along the guide rails (bolted strips) for the sliding periscope cover. But they are so minor that I doubt even I will add them.
Do you know if Panzer Art cast concrete could be used to modify this kit.?
It should fit pretty well but it might not be perfect fit since that set is meant for Dragon. But a little putty should solve any small gaps around the edges.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks.. Nice video.
Which Stug 3 had the radio box on the side of the superstructure?
That would be the earlier vehicles. Ausf.A, B, C, and D have one box on one side, and the other side angled steel. Ausf.E and F have the radio boxes on both sides, and the F also has a long gun.
It is funny I have never seen it on the model kits of these vehicles which I have made .
Can you make a Post Build Review of Trumpeter's 1/35 #01596 Jagdpanzer E-100?
Should I use short or long tow cable clamps on this vehicle?
They should be the shorter style of cable clamp I guess...assuming I'm thinking of the long ones as the type on the Pz III engine deck as the clamps held the cable ends as well as the cable looped through once as well. On StuG they just held the end so the clamp is shorter.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you very much for your quick reply and help!